Paul Kruize from Holland is an one man, one machine denim maker company. He makes jeans for everybody personal by taking the right measurements of your body so the jean will finally fits like a glove. This is a really unique process and not common when someone makes every time a new pattern. It’s really labour intensive. You can choose your favorite fit, spare parts like buttons, rivets and thread and of course your favourite fabric. I know he’s using high quality like Japanese and American fabrics. So finally you will get your dream pair of denim. Very cool!
Paul made a mini documentary with Richard Bussink. The entire making process from taking measurements, drafting a pattern, cutting the denim to making the jeans, shown in one continuous flow. So relax and check out this true craftsman. Nice one Paul, well done!
Wouter Reimert from Vif Jeans store Rijssen sended me these cool pics from a nice worn-out Eat Dust jean. The jean has a really nice blue fading and wear pattern. It looks like an old pair of vintage jeans. Well done Richard! And thanks buddy for the pics. Till soon.
- Owner: Richard Smit from Holland
- Brand: Eat Dust, fit 73, 13.25oz Japanese blue selvage
- Age: 3 years old
- Treatment: Two rinses in bad with Mr. Black Denim Wash
Send your worn-out denim project to: email@example.com
Vif Jeans is organising their 2nd edition of the Dry Denim Day event. Two years ago I was there to make pics from all the nice worn-out denim projects. Next week on Saturday a lot of nice things are going to happen, several denim lectures, special handmade products, music, cold beers and many more. Check the event highlights here below. It’s going to be blue in Rijssen next week! (sorry highlights only in Dutch)
James Dean is a true denim icon. He got world famous in 1955 with his legendary role in the movie ‘Rebel without a cause’. James showed us how cool it is to wear a pair of jeans, mostly Lee Jeans, a plain white t-shirt, a leather jacket and some boots. Simple and timeless. Still today this is a classic outfit for everyday use. Rebel style.
This vintage deadstock Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus is in my private collection for a while, but never showed on my blog. It’s a typical pair of denim from the mid ’70′s featuring the orange tab on the back pocket. In the ’70′s Levi’s Jeans made a new fabric called Dura Plus. Dura Plus was a fabric that was made of a mix of 54% cotton and 36% polyester to give you comfort, minimize wrinkling and reduce shrinkage. It was one of the heaviest Levi’s fabrics ever made so far. A true 1970′s tough denim. The fit is a classic hippy flare pipe model and the blue colour is amazing, deeply indigo blue. Check also the funny original tv commercial which they used to promote this new fabric.
Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus TV Commercial
Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus Kids Advertising from 1977
Black Rabbit is a fresh new brand and it looks damn good. I know the people behind this brand have a lot of experience in the fashion industry, and this is what you see in their products. All of them are worked out with a lot of details, great fabrics and fits. One of my personal favourites it this Talos jacket. The jacket features a detachable hood with a storm-flap which can be deployed forward or folded back. The garment is lined with wool blanket with special cutouts below the armholes to reduce bulk and augment ventilation. The lower edge of the lining is free, which aids in drying out when wet. Details include the following: a double belt, front closure using twin over-size hooks, cuff regulators, hidden pocket-flap plackets, extra wide twin-needle stitching and a shaping-dart at the throat. All in all a killer jacket. Check the site of Black Rabbit as it is online since a couple of days!
Great new denim project for Endrime Jeans from UK. Their latest special edition is a Made in Japan jeans, 50 pieces only. They worked closely with Collect and Okamoto Denim mills – who are both based in Kojima – Japan, to develop the fabric. The first 25 pieces from the 50 run have been sold exclusively into London boutique denim store: Son of a Stag. Mohsin made a great video for this project. Good work Mohsin Sajid, looking forward to see the jean!
SJC founder Simon James Cathcart began SJC with the objective of creating a link between specialist communities circling the fringes of men’s fashion. These groups range from music, denim, leather, suiting, iron work, motorbikes, jewellery, bulldogs and fighting.
SJC founder Simon James Cathcart
The Hellcat Denim Dungarees are made from 18oz Japanese one wash selvage denim that has been woven on shuttle looms in a 1920′s style to create a very dark, crispy, denim. Only 101 pairs of these were be produced. The cut is a synthesis of WW2 commission denim, prison and work pants of the 40′s. Check out this great brand.
During the second edition of Kingpins denim fabric show in Amsterdam the first edition of the Global Denim Awards were held. The Global Denim Awards is an innovative initiative, six of the world’s premier denim mills with six emerging designers. Its aim is to connect talent and industry to create a directional platform for the future of denim design, innovation, sustainability and craftsmanship. The concept for Global Denim Awards was developed by HTNK, Amsterdam-based fashion recruitment and consultancy firm, in collaboration with the Kingpins Show. The Global Denim Awards is made possible by e3.
The winner of the first edition is Jonathan Christopher (27 years) and won € 10.000. Jonathan did the master’s education at ArtEZ Fashion Masters in Arnhem after his fashion degree at Willem de Kooning Academie in Rotterdam – NL. He’s now part of the Karl Lagerfeld designteam and he also runs his own mens label Jonathan Christopher Homme. For the Global Denim Awards he worked with the Italian mill ITV denim.
Congratulations Jonathan with this victory! And big bravo for the organisation for creating such a high level international denim event. Looking forward to see the next one!
Mariette Hoitink (founder HTNK)
Adriano Goldschmied announce the winner
Pics by Team Peter Stigter
Keep updated about Global Denim Awards here;
The ‘Steady Eddie Dry Heavy Japan Selvage’ is the heaviest jean so far made by Nudie Jeans. It’s made of 18oz orange Japanese Kaihara selvage. The whole process takes 5–6 days including cutting, sewing and inspecting. This release is limited to 1.000 pieces, every pair is of course numbered and comes in a special box with book. It’s a kind of marketing trend nowadays to make such heavy denims by a lot of brands. Very cool, but for me the most comfortable denims are still made from 14oz – 15oz fabrics.
Last weekend Westside store in Den Bosch – NL organised a great day full of specials. One of the specials was the Denham Jeans repair corner where you could fix your favourite pair of worn-out jeans. Clinton from Denham is a true craftsman as it comes to repairing, so I decided to do some repairs on my two years old Eat Dust jeans fit 73. The result is super nice, and I am ready for round 2! Thanks Clinton, see you soon!
www.denhamthejeanmaker.com & www.westsidedenbosch.nl
Today we built our Butts and Shoulders pop-up shop in one of the most beautiful stores in Holland, Westside Den Bosch. The kick-off is tomorrow, would be great to see you. We will serve you some cold Beerze Beers!
www.buttsandshoulders.com & www.westsidedenbosch.nl
Lee Jeans introduced the Lee Rodeo Clown Pants for rodeos. These were very popular events, and this oversized pair of Lee Riders was made for rodeo clowns who played a critical role in rodeos. They not only entertained the crowds during breaks but also distracted a bull or horse from fallen riders, so that the injured could exit the ring. A true cult item and nowadays very hard to find and a collectors jean. Came across an original vintage one at Ebay today from the ’40′s, the auction starts at $ 975. Unfortunately too much for me to place a bid, but damn cool!
Artist Moe Bandy in Lee Riders Rodeo Clown Pants
Check the pants here on Ebay:
Levi’s Vintage Clothing made a nice iconic denim jacket with Cone Mills selvage fabric. The 1878 Triple Pleated Blouse Rooftop is extremely worn in and has repaired by hand. Years of wear and work in the outdoors creates rich layers of indigo tones and variances. Rusted buttons, hand repaired and replaced cuffs and waistband. A true piece of denim art! Well done Levi’s.
Available here: www.caliroots.com
Every man need a classic grey sweater in his closet. The Iron Heart brand made a nice one for this winter season, the IHSW-06 Heavy Loopwheeled Crew Neck Sweat. The sweat is super windproof, heavy “Wakayama” loopwheeled cotton fleece, made with four needle, Union Special flat stitched seams, tubular construction so no side seams and the the cuffs are cylinder sewn, so also without seams. All in all a classic piece for your daily rigid denim outfit.
During the Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven – NL I did a denim expo project for Lois Jeans. The project was in collaboration with Jean School from Amsterdam. We showed some innovative denim items made by the students and besides that we also showed some original vintage Lois Jeans items from the ’70′s. Below some pictures of the highlighted items which came over from Spain – Valencia, Lois Jeans Headquaters.