Two weeks ago during the Blueprint Event in Amsterdam (part of the Amsterdam Denim Days) the second edition of the Denim Market was a fact. This time the outdoor market was located at the entrance of the event in an old school greenhouse. On the Denim Market you could spot the newest and coolest denim products; clothing, accessories, vintage, footwear, jeans, etc. The exhibitors were Concrete Matter, Butcher’s Vintage Shop (from Butcher of Blue), Pig & Hen, Kurt’s, Blue Days Footwear, DenimLab, Spijkerbrij, Deadstock Resurrection, Liza Witte, Misc, Witloft and more. The vibe was very inspiring! Looking forward to see the next edition! Check below some snapshots.
Sarva is a Swedish brand which is specialised in functional outdoor and made in Sweden jeans. Sami people are nomads, spending 365 days a year outdoors. To do that you need proper equipment that can withstand hard conditions and extreme weather. With this in mind they created Sarva – Functional outdoor. Wind and waterproof garments that keep you both warm and dry and at the same time looks good. They have been working very close with their family and relatives with these products to get everything right: details, function and durability.
In the late 70′s all Swedish factories had to close down due to cheaper competition overseas. Sarva found one small factory that has kept their machines and knowledge from the glory days of Swedish textile production. So now they can offer you jeans that is manufactured in their home country. Check here below the making of a pair of Sarva selvage jeans.
One of the coolest denim spots just opened their doors in Amsterdam. During the Amsterdam Denim Days Denim City did their official kick-off. Denim City is an initiative from House of Denim and their partners. They created the ultimate blue city. Denim City is a center for craftsmanship and innovation in the denim industry. It was founded to connect and inspire denim lovers and stakeholders, on their journey towards a cleaner and smarter industry: towards a brighter blue. Denim City is something progressive, special and unique, but above something really cool. Denim City makes the heart beat faster of every denim head. But what is Denim City exactly? Check it out below!
Like its logo Denim City consits five elements: the first element is a Denim Workshop. The Denim Workshop is a fully-equipped production facility, featuring an extensive fabric archive of over 50 denims, cutting tables, pattern cutting tables and ‘Global’ brand sewing machines: exactly the type of opportunity the industry needs to train a new generation of bright blue talent.
The second element is the Denim Institute. The Denim Institute is co-founded with industry expert Adriana Galijasevic, the Denim Institute will collect, develop and share knowledge with, from and among stakeholders. The institute consists of an industry-academia-NGO knowledge network, a network office, study space and an archive.
Red Light Denim is an original Amsterdam denim blend woven from 18% denim worn and recollected in Amsterdam.
Element number three is the Blue Lab. The Blue Lab will offer opportunities to train craftspeople and educate professionals; to test and improve new technologies & solutions; to bring ideas to trial. The Blue Lab facility was initiated by Turkish industry visionary entrepreneur Mr Fuat Gozacan in close collaboration with House of Denim, Jean School and the City of Amsterdam.
The next element is Emabssy. Just like a real Embassy, it serves as a platform for (denim) diplomacy, networking, enterprise, and exchange. The Embassy consists of a showroom/meeting room for sales appointments and meetings, temporary offices and seats to meet.
Co-founders Demin City James Veenhoff and Mariette Hoitnink (House of Denim)
The last, but certainly not least, element is Jean School. Education is one of the primary pillars of this initiative. Jean School was established together with ROCvA in 2012 as a full-time, 3 year, MBO4 accredited course. The first class of students is set to graduate in the summer of 2015.
The official opening of Denim City by the mayor of Amsterdam, Eberhard van der Laan.
Denim City is located at Hannie Dankbaar Passage 33 in Amsterdam. If you’re in the neighborhood, check it out for yourself! Congrats Denim City crew with the official opening!
(most pictures by Team Peter Stigter)
Mr Porter made a video about The Denim Lab from Levi’s Jeans in San Francisco. They visited the jean master Mr Jonathan Cheung, senior vice president of design at the 162 year old U.S.A. brand. In the denim lab the latest Levi’s creation was born, the re-make of the classic 501 called the 501 CT. CT stands for Customized Tapered, and that is what the new fit does, it has the authentic old school 501 block and tapered narrow legs. Check out in the video the ultimate denim experience lab. It’s a true small denim heaven factory for every denim designer. Thanks Mr Porter (www.mrporter.com) for giving us an insight in the laboratory of the worlds oldest denim brand. Enjoy!
Ru is a new denim label started in early 2014, and is based in Amsterdam. A while ago they went to Porto – Portugal to visit their denim factory. They made a great video to give us an impression of what we can expect from their new collection called: Chapter Amsterdam. Keep an eye on Ru Denim. Nice video Ruann da Silva!
During the Blueprint event – Amsterdam Denim Days – Bob Rijnders showed his latest collection of his brand Butcher of Blue. Next to jeans Bob developed some crazy tops as well. He also did a collab with Armor Lux. Bob has one of the best denim stores in Holland, located in the pittoresque Hoogland village near Amersfoort. About two years ago Bob decided to launch his own denim. He made something unique, something special as the Butcher of Blue. One of the best details is the hook on the back pocket which become more visible after hard wearing. Of course Bob also put a lot of sweat, tears and rock & roll in his first pair ever made. The result is extremely nice! This is how every denimhead should treat his jeans. It has an amazing fading and is patched and repaired a lot of times in the two years of non-stop wearing. Well done Bob! ”In the land of the pig, the butcher is king!”.
Bob Rijnders (Best of Brands stores / Butcher of Blue)
◾Owner: Bob Rijnders (owner Butcher of Blue brand) - Holland
◾Brand: Butcher of Blue
◾Age: 2 years old
◾Treatment: One rinse and a lot of repairs
Send your worn-out project to: firstname.lastname@example.org
During the Amsterdam Denim Days I organised a denim expo. For this expo I used the private collection from denim designer Jason Denham. Jason is the founder of the Amsterdam based Denham brand and has an extremely huge and rare collection. Jason collected the items within his long career where he travelled a lot to the U.S.A. and Japan for inspiration. One of his best items were displayed to show the visitors of the Blueprint event a bit of his collection. The Blueprint event was a big success, so can’t wait till next year for #3. Below some highlights. Thanks for your support Jason!
Pepe Jeans - Model Minor. The 1st selvedge jean he ever designed in 1996.
Levi’s 501 Big E from 1970. The smallest jean in his collection and his daughters 1st vintage selvedge jean, Waist 18 Lenght 12.
Amish denim jacket from circa ’30′s – ’40′s. Handmade in U.S.A. Covered “plain
button” closures associated with the religious modesty of Amish culture.
Evis Jean. His ultimate tear and repair reference jean.
French fireman jacket from the ’40′s. Beautiful condition Hydron French uniform piece.
The American Brand from the ’30′s. 10oz work pant. His favorite patched up work pant.
Indigo Kendo gloves from the ’70′s. Indigo dyed Martial arts indigo fighting gloves.
Head Light Overalls from the ’50′s.
Levi’s 501 Big E. Rare 1940’s burn out repairs and grafted leg.
Big Yank shirt from the ’40′s.
Indigo Boro kimono from Japan. Circa 1890. Early twentieth I century boro, or ‘ragged’ patched and mended work garb, used by farmers, lumberman and fisherman and itinerant workers in Japan. Made of indigo dyed cotton.
Levi’s 501 Big E from the ’60′s. The biggest jean in his collection, Waist 76 Length 45.
One of the best parts of tradeshows and events is that you can meet your denim friends again and talk about our passion. Last week during the Kingpins and Blueprint events I saw many of them. It’s always a pleasure to see you! Till soon and stay blue!
Adriano Goldschmied (The godfather of denim)
Thomas Stege Bojer (Founder Denimhunters blog)
Amy Leverton (Author Denim Dudes / Director of Denim, WGSN platform)
Piero Turk (Founder Manic Monkeys Jeans / Denim Designer)
Douglas Gunn (The Vintage Showroom London)
Jason Denham (Founder Denham Jeans brand)
Ben Fokkema (Founder Amsterdenim). Ben is showing his latest denim project, the smallest denim office / chair of the world. In the chair Amy Leverton & Samuel Trotman, both WGSN platform)
Since last week the denim industry has a new denim mill. The official kick-off from this new handmade selvage denim fabric took place at the Kingpins fair in Amsterdam. The fabric is totally made by hand, handspun and handwoven, which is pretty rare. I am very exited about this new fabric as I work as a consultant for them. The Kingpins fair was the moment that all the buyers, designers and media saw this unique and traditional made fabric for the very first time. The fabrics are all made by hand in India. The threads are dyed with natural indigo and woven on old authentic wooden shuttle looms. The result is the best of the best with beautiful indigo colours. True heaven for every denimhead. One of the best parts is that the selvage is made with real silver and gold which come from old Indian sarees. The kick-off was a huge success!
The first Seven Senses collections contains are variety of several different shades of blue. Even a green fabric was added to the collection. The different types of blue depends how often the threads got in contact with the indigo. To promote the fabrics on a right way we asked two successful denim designers to make a piece of the first light coloured fabric. The collaborated designers are Paul Kruize (Paul Kruize Jeans) from Holland and Mohsin Sajid (Endrime) from the UK. Paul made a great jacket and Mohsin an amazing pair of jeans. Both made of heavy woven fabric which is uncommon in the denim industry. The result shows something new and fresh. Below the booth from Seven Senses at the Kingspins fair and the two promotional items. Keep an eye on this revolutionary denim fabric! Congrats with the launch Seven Senses crew!
The jacket made by denim designer Paul Kruize
The jacket made by denim designer Mohsin Sajid
Just back from 4 great days in Amsterdam: Kingpins show and Blueprint event. Will post later some updates with the highlights of both events. In the meantime here’s a short impression of the Blueprint event. It was great to see you all! Till the next one.
This week I will be in Amsterdam for the Amsterdam Denim Days. The first stop was the Kingpins denim fabric fair for 2 days and then 2 days Blueprint. For the Blueprint event I worked this time for the Denim Market and curated a denim expo with private items from the English denim designer Jason Denham – founder of the Denham brand. So no updates the upcoming days, but I guess I will meet a lot of indigo heads live on the events. It’s time to catch up with friends and talk about our blue denim passion.
To give you a sneak of what you can expect from the very cool denim expo here’s an old patched and repaired pants from The American Brand from the 1930′s. This pant is one of Jason’s favorite patched up work pants from his huge and rare archive. Hope to see you all at Blueprint Amsterdam!
Check the complete program of Amsterdam Denim Days here:
Yesterday evening after the Kingpins fair in Amsterdam Denham Jeans organised a special evening to launch their long awaited follow up on their Cannes Award winning viral sensation ‘Denham Psycho’. Their new explicit remake is ‘The Jeanmaker’. Watch it here online! Congrats Denham crew with this brilliant master piece!
Bob Rijnders from the famous Dutch denim store Best Of Brands – BOB located in Hoogland (NL) is launching his new denim collection during the Amsterdam Denim Days this week. He will show for the first time his brand new collection at the Blueprint event. One of the specials from the collection is the hook up with authentic label Armor Lux. The Armor Lux brand is started in 1938 in Quimper, France, and is known for their originality of its maritime inspired garments and excellent quality. All their collections are inspired by French tradition and the values conveyed by the sea.
The collab version of the hero piece the Sweat Bouclette Heritage Sweatshirt made of 100% pure cotton and napped on the inside will have the brands logo’s both being a hook and anchor imprinted on the shirt. In total there will be only 250 limited edition unisex shirts available with the retail price of € 89,95. The first 50 will be sold at the Blueprint and the rest will be sold via the Butcher of Blue store in Hoogland and via the webshop: www.butcherofblue.com/shop/ as of end of April 2015.
Next to items as shirts, sweats and t-shirts in the new collection, Bob will also launch two 100% Italian made iconic selvedge denims with the support of the well-known denim mill Candiani. Looking forward to see it by myself this week. Below a sneak peak from the collab with Armor Lux. Congrats Bob!
Companion Denim is a brand faithful to the values of quality, durability, honesty, respect for the environment, and to the aesthetics of clean and minimal subtelty. Straight to the core of denim pureness. Each pair of jeans is designed and handcrafted with the most attention to detail and an obsessively manicured confection.
All the Companion jeans are made in Barcelona – Spain with the finest selvedge denim coming from an accurate selection of qualities from the best mills, mostly from Japan, USA and Italy. The jeans are artisanally crafted with a selection of the best sewing machines for making denim. Using a mix of both modern and classic vintage machines which made the jeans of the old. Some of those machines are even 100 years old and make a beautiful and highly durable stitching. Check out the making of a pair of jeans in the movie here below.
Something really exciting is going to happen this week on the 2nd edition of Amsterdam Denim Days at Blueprint. Italy’s premium denim mill, Candiani, and the industry’s finest apprentices unite: students of AMFI and the Jean School / House of Denim. They will co-create 30 exclusive custom jeans with Candiani Denim. Candiani Denim’s loom weaves the fabric live, right then and there, and the students will be creating your customised jeans on the spot. This “loom state” journey that starts and ends with jeans created in the heart of the contemporary denim capital of the world. It results in one of the most exclusive denims possible.
Candiani Denim will install a 1950s’ Picanol loom and a Denim Atelier to take denim lovers on a journey from thread to finished product. Candiani is the only mill in Europe which still weaves on a day to day basis with these small, machine looms, which drove the first denim boom in the Western world. They result in a unique denim quality.
As they can only make 30 pairs during the 2 days of the event, you have to be selected to buy one of these 100% Made in Amsterdam pair of selvage jeans. The lucky ones can select the denim weight, styling and trimming details. You will have to pay a symbolic donation. The donations will be used to fund a Denim Archive in the new to open Denim City / home of House of Denim at de Hallen.
Looking forward to see this authentic loom creating the first Amsterdam pair of jeans. See you this week at the Amsterdam Denim Days: Zuiveringshal, Westergasfabriek.
Two weeks ago a really cool new denim book came out: The 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans as it captures vintage Big E jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book shows 51 unique and rare examples which are in hands of Japanese Levi’s Jeans collectors. One of them is Yutaka Fujihara, and he’s also the maker of this great book. The book is a true history book as it comes to the rich heritage of Levi’s Jeans. All the details from every 501 era are fully described in 200 pages with photos and text in Japanese and English language. The book came in two editions, one limited edition which has a denim cover with golden letters (only 501 pieces were printed and were sold out within week!) and a regular version. Check below the cover of the regular edition. Big bravo to Levi’s expert Yutaka for this amazing denim document! Happy that I got my hands on a copy.
Get your copy here: www.berberjin.com
Check the limited edition cover here:
A couple of years ago Lee Jeans launched their heaviest denim made so far in their collection, Lee 101z – 23oz. Lee Jeans launched their 101 cowboy pant in 1924, probably the first denim trouser designed specially for cowboys and rodeo riders. This same year they removed the back pocket rivets and added the bar tackings. After the 101b (buttons) they came with the 101z (zipper). The first denim pants with a zipper!This heavy 101z jean is made from 23oz right hand selvage fabric. The selvage is golden/brown. The jean was made in limited quantities, 250 pieces only! This is one of them.
King & Queens store in Antwerp (Belgium) is organising a Pike Brothers day. During the day you can see the full Pike Brothers collection, check out denim clinics, drink free beers, listen to good music and of course they will give some free give a ways. The founder of the German Pike Brothers brand, Fabian Jedlitschka, will be there as well. He can tell you everything about his brand, why he started and what’s coming up in the future. All in all a good event to notice in your agenda. Cheers!
Next week the Amsterdam Denim Days will be held for the second time. To promote this unique blue denim event they made a great short movie to get you in the mood. In the movie you will meet blogger Lizzy van der Ligt, guitarist Jiri Taihuttu, jeansmaker Mick Keus and of course the men from These Cavemen. Check it out en see u next week in Amsterdam!