Nobrandedon Presents: THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz

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Nobrandedon is a denim brand started in 2011 by Aryan Pandam Raafi from Indonesia. With their Nobrandedon denim brand they create very special and unique jeans. Last May they launched the 1st edition of the special THW501XX Handwoven 19oz Heavyweight Jeans. You can read more about this THW501XX jeans here.

As this THW501XX jeans was sold-out immediately they decided to develop a 2nd edition: THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz. Also the 2nd edition is a very outstanding pair of jeans (it takes 36 hours to produce 1 pair of these!) which contains very special features as;

  • Super Deep Rich colors with ‘Rain Fall Thunder Indigo’
  • Double Red Line and White Dotted Selvedge
  • 100% Cotton, 100% Selvedge, 100% Hand Loomed
  • 100% Hand Process, 100% Artisanal Jeans
  • Natural-Hand-Dyed Indigo Tinctoria Hand-Sewn Sashiko Patch
  • 36 Hours to produce 1 Jeans
  • Slim Straight Silhoutte
  • Sanforized-Shrunk
  • Poly Cotton Heavy Thread (super strong thread)
  • Shell Stitch Sword Fly
  • Double Selvedge Peek a Boo Coin Pocket
  • YKK Japanese 100% Copper Gold Double Prong Button Fly
  • YKK Japanese 100% Copper Washer-Burr Rivets
  • Hidden Rivets
  • Continuous N Stitching on Waist Band
  • Raised Belt Loop
  • Raised Open Backpocket
  • Fully Reinforced Backpocket
  • Blue Striped Soft-Skin-Feel Polycotton Pocket Lining
  • Triangle Stitch Overlap Details on Left Side Backpocket
  • Single Felled Inseam
  • Hemmed by UNION Special 43200G

Well done guys, you did it again! Check below some details of this THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz Jeans.

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Check more on the Nobrandedon Instagram page here.

Heddels CO-OP 2: The Knickerbocker Quint Hat

My friends from the platform Heddels just released their second collab: Heddels CO-OP 2: The Knickerbocker Quint Hat. They create collaborations with brands they admire which results in limited runs of specialized products exclusively made for the Heddels readers. For this 2nd collab they team-up with Knickerbocker MFG brand from Brooklyn – NY to create the Quint Hat.

The Quint Hat is for stormy nights, dark days and deep sea hunting. The hat is made from an 8.25oz. waxed cotton fabric and is water resistant and has dual front pockets. All seams are finished with natural cotton twill tape and it’s all closed with a vegetable tanned Atlantic salmon leather strap around a brass slider buckle. The hat is made in a limited and numbered edition run of 100 pieces and is now available on the Heddels site. Congrats guys with this great 2nd collab and keep up the good work! Looking forward to see collab number 3!

Read the full story of the idea, making of, production, etc. from this special collab on the Heddels site here.

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The inspiration of the Heddels X The Knickerbocker Hat came from the character from the legendary Jaws movie, Sam Quint. For this collab they made a photoshoot as a kind of a homage to the character in the movie. The photoshoot was done by Eric Kvatek (famed lookbook photographer for Kapital, Prps, and 45rpm and many other brands).

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Get your Heddels X Knickerbocker Quint Hat now here.

Vintage Market by Denim Boulevard at Denim PV Paris Fair

The Denim PV fair teamed-up last week with Denim Boulevard to create a first edition of Première Vintage Market on the fair in Paris. The market was filled with an impressive collection of denim, workwear, military and sportwear. The set-up looks really good and is a true inspiration and must see for everyone with an interest in denim and vintage stuff in general. It’s a pity I missed this one by myself, but happily there are always enough pics. Well done Denim Boulevard! See you with the next edtion.

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http://denimpremierevision.com

Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) Fall Winter 2016 Collection

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One of my personal denim highlights every season is the Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) collection. Levi’s is creating every season a high quality made collection with inspiration from their rich heritage. They create a tribute story. For the Fall Winter 2016 collection they picked the theme: 9TH ST. The 9th Street Exhibition in New York, 1951, was the first time artists showed collectively, and along with poets and writers of the time, became known as the New York School. In the mid ’40s, just after WWII, there was a revolution within the American art world. It became known as Abstract Expressionism. They were a new breed of artists, heavilty influenced by surrealist painters who had fled Europe during the war. The items from the new LVC collection shows a different colour palette in tees, tops and finishes on the jeans.

As always the LVC lookbooks are made from the same high standard as the collection itself. The lookbook starts with some re-production pieces from the large (more than 20.000 rare pieces) Levi’s denim archive. The next chapter is about the main LVC collection with the 9TH ST. theme. In the middle of the lookbook they show how to wash, wear and care your favorite pair of jeans. The last chapter shows a kind of streetpeople wearing LVC on a very cool way. The pics are shot in black/white which is a perfect choice.

All in all, the LVC line is as always very exciting and special. Check below some shots taken from the new Levi’s Vintage Clothing lookbook No. 10.

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www.levis.com

ISKO Amsterdam Office Opening

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ISKO is the world’s largest denim manufacturer under one roof. With 1.500 high-tech automated looms, global distribution of employees and production capacity of 250 million meters of fabric per year, their portfolio includes more than 25.000 products. They create high quality denim fabrics for brands as Nudie Jeans, Diesel, Replay, Acne, Seven, Lee Jeans and Wrangler to name a few of their impressive brand portfolio.

Last week ISKO opened their doors of their new office in Amsterdam. Time to celebrate this with a denim party. For the celebration they organised a great denim event for their customers, relations and for the denimheads. During the event you could check out some really cool denim activities by Daily Bags, Sashikodenim and Daphne Bleeker. Ofcourse there was fine music, cold drinks and other cool stuff. It was a good one! Check below some pics of the ISKO Amsterdam office opening.

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www.isko.com.tr

Global Denim Awards 2016

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The third edition of the Global Denim Awards, made possible by e3 cotton, was again filled with high quality outstanding design and denim inspiration. Mix this with a great set-up and you have a perfect denim night. The presence of nearly 600 denim professionals from all over the world, a jury of international denim experts (read more info about them here), made it a very successful edition. The GDA was filled with a lot of creativity and showed us how to use denim in a new way. Dutch designer Anbasja Blanken and Italian mill ITV Denim won the Best Collection Award. And the Award Best Fabric was for the Indian mill Arvind. Well deserved! Below a recap from a blue night in Amsterdam.

Photos by Team Peter Stigter

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http://globaldenimawards.com

Read more about the designers, mills and jury in the previous GDW post here.

Denim City X Amsterdam Dance Event Jeans

Last week their was a new edition of the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE). The Amsterdam Dance Event is the leading electronic music platform and the biggest club festival in the world with a whole spectrum of electronic sub-genres. The ADE festival features 450 events and 2.200 artists over five days in 140 clubs and venues. For this special dance festival Denim City teamed-up with ADE to celebrate the 2016 edition. They created a special limited edition jeans. Denim City cooperated with the Italian denim mill Candiani to develop a special black fabric with black/yellow selvage. The black/yellow colours refers to the ADE festival colours. This special jeans is totally made in Denim City, all by hand by true craftsman, in 300 pieces. They are available in the recently opened Denim City Store which is located at the centre of Denim City.  

Denim City
Hannie Dankbaarpassage 22
1053 RT Amsterdam
The Netherlands

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http://denimcity.org

Meet The Collector #5: Eric Maggiori

MEET THE COLLECTOR #5

Today the 5th episode of the topic Meet the CollectorMeet the Collector is about passionate people with a focus on collecting. With this topic I will give you an insight in their special collection. Collectors will tell their story behind their treasures, show their most rare and unique items and tell you all about the collecting thrill. I’m very proud to show you the 5th collector: Eric Maggiori in the topic: Meet the Collector! Thanks Eric for sharing your great story and showing some of your awesome treasures from your collection. Enjoy.

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Eric Maggiori

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  • Name: Eric Maggiori
  • Living in village & country: Paris, France
  • Age: 31 years
  • Instagram ID: ericm.vintage
  • Number of Instagram followers: 6,7K
  • Website http://ericmvintage.allyou.net
  • Daily work: Chief editor for So Foot Club magazine / Chief editor for sofoot.com website / Journalist for Society magazine and So Foot magazine

What’s your favorite brand: I don’t have one favorite brand, let’s say I have a « Top 5 favorite brands ». I love all the Stifel stuffs, it’s really particular and all the clothes that have a Stifel stamp drives me crazy. Then I like Underhill, a brand from Denver, CO, a workwear brand that produced miners clothing (then it becomes Baily-Underhill, and then just Baily). I also love Boss of the Road, because its Bulldog logo is awesome, Sweet-Orr and, last but not least, Stronghold.

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What’s your favorite denim brand: Well, all the brands I just mentioned are all denim brands except Stifel. So, if I have to pick just one favorite denim brand, I would say Underhill. Not the most famous one but my first miner’s jacket was an Underhill one. So I guess it’s all about romanticism.

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What’s your favorite footwear brand: Strangely, I’m not really into footwear. When I was younger, I used to collect skateboarding shoes, so I still do have a lof of Vans, Airwalk and Vision Street Wear shoes, all from the 80’s. But regarding workwear boots, I don’t have a particular brand I like. Maybe Red Wing, but that’s not very original.

How long are you collecting: Like every collector, I collected everything I can collect since I’m a child. In my life, I used to collect pins, phone cards, Dragon Ball Z figurines, magic cards, football (soccer) stickers…And then I come to clothes. It all started in 2003 when I went to Japan with my older brother. I was 18. He brought me to a vintage shop in Tôkyô and I was like « Wow, that’s really cool ». I remember buying a 80’s Nike t-shirt, that was my first vintage item. The following years, I collected 70’s and 80’s vintage rock t-shirts, like Iron Maiden, Slayer, Metallica, Motley Crue, Poison and Black Sabbath. And then, in 2010, I really started to focus on workwear. I bought a lot of Japanese magazines to document on workwear and miner’s stuffs. I also bought Michael Harris book about Jeans of the Old West and was amazed by those jeans he dug from old mines. Treasures from the past, and incredible witnesses of American history. And this is how my actual collection started.

How many items are there in your collection: Hard question, because first, I have to define the borders of my collection. Are my vintage rock t-shirts part of my collection? Let’s say I have three collections : 1/ American workwear and miner’s collection. 2/ 80’s t-shirt collection. 3/ 80’s and 90’s sportswear (jackets, jerseys) collection. In the American workwear collection, I maybe have 300 pieces.

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How or why did you became a collector: Like I said before, reading all the Japanese magazines and Michael Harris book was kind of a revelation for me. I remember seeing all this old denim jackets, denim pants, overalls, and was telling to myself : « I want this, I want that… » So I started hunting during my trips in America (I’m living in Paris, a city where you definitely can’t find American miner’s stuffs), and then, like every collector, I bought stuffs on eBay. I bought a Underhill 1890’s miner’s jacket from a guy who found it in a mine in Colorado. When I received it, I was like a child at Christmas eve. That was in 2011. Then I get another jacket, then pants, then overalls, and the collection grew and still keeps growing. This guy in Colorado became my friend, I went to Colorado to hunt and explore mines with him, and I am very very grateful to him because he always found fantastic stuffs and gave me the opportunity to own some of them.

What’s the best thrill about collecting? It’s a feeling that is hard to explain with words. The best sensation is to find old clothing in a mine, an abandoned house or a barn… It’s just laying there, and you know that nobody saw it or touch it for like… 70, 80, 90 years? That’s so exciting. Last year with my friend in Colorado, we found a pair of Underhill pants in a mine in Cripple Creek, it was like finding a gold nugget! Then, I also love the excitation of buying stuffs on eBay, waiting for it and then receiving the package from the mailman. It remember me when I was a kid, I didn’t have Internet and was waiting for letters from my friends during summer. The moment you open the package and touch for the first time your new item is so cool. Then you find a good place in you showroom and can admire it. The real problem about collection is that you are never satisfied. You buy a jacket, you wait for it, you receive it, you admire it, but the day after you already want to buy another one. It never ends.

What is your favorite item en why: My favorite item so far is a 1900/1910 Stifel jacket, and the brand is Our Wheeler. It was found in a abandoned house in Kansas. It was there, laying on the floor for maybe 100 years… Amazing. Stifel brand is really rare. The fabric is soft, it’s not as strong as denim, and that’s why it’s harder to find Stifel items nowadays: because a lot of them were destroyed. So it’s always very moving for me to find Stifel items.

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What’s your best bargain in your collection: It’s a US Navy pull-over shirt I found last time I was in Los Angeles. A guy at the Rosebowl was selling some Daisy Mae hats from WW2, I bought them from him and then I saw that USN denim shirt. I asked him a price, and I was expecting a price between 400 and 500. And he answered me : « you already took the Daisy Mae, so give me 10 $ and the shirt is yours ». !!! Well, thank you mate!!

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Which item was the hardest to get and/or the most valuable one: It’s definitely a WWI US Army brown pull-over shirt. I got two or three US Army pull-over denim shirt, the ones with US Army zinc buttons. But I was looking for a brown one. I saw one in a vintage magazine, and then saw another one on Instagram, but the guy didn’t want to sell it. So I just waited, and waited again. And one day, a friend of mine told me that a Japanese seller just got a brown US Army shirt. But the price was really high. So I asked him if it was possible to do three rates payments. He said yes, so I payed, it took three months but in the end, I got that shirt !

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Which item would you add to your collection (wishlist): I would really love to get some Stronghold pants. It’s a brand I really like and I got nothing from Stronghold. I love the Stronghold tag. I would also love to get an old Levi’s miners jackets. From 1890 or 1900. But it’s really, really, really hard to find.

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Where do you get your daily inspiration from? Books and japanese magazines like Mono. But my daily inspiration is definitely on Instagram. The accounts I’m following for Inspiration :

-    For American workwear : okakineko.0222, sanforized, palms_vintage, snug_genki, vintageworkwear, kensgoods, holiday_shantii, foremostvintage, vanishing_dreams_ofthewest, and sakethaivintage.

-    For French workwear : tomgruat, jamclothing_nao.

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Are you also a collector and want to share your story and treasures? Send me an email:

wouter@long-john.nl

ISKO Denim Event in Amsterdam

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Tomorrow there will be a nice denim event by ISKO Denim to celebrate their new Amsterdam office. During the event you can check out some really cool denim activities by Daily Bags, Sashikodenim and Daphne Bleeker. Ofcourse there will be some fine music, cold drinks and other cool stuff!

Please send me an email, wouter@long-john.nl, if you want to join. See you there!

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www.isko.com

Tenue de Nîmes X Converse Indigo Dyed Sneakers

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The Amsterdam based store Tenue de Nîmes is launching another special indigo dyed Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ’70 Hi shoes.  The sneakers are dyed by hand with natural Indian indigo by Celia Geraedts (Blue Print Amsterdam) in Amsterdam. The sneakers will be launched during a special store event and comes with a canvas bag which is dyed as well. This special indigo Chuck is available at their Haarlemmerstraat store on October the 28.

Time: October 28, 2016 – 19:00 – 22:00
Tenue de Nimes
Haarlemmerstraat 92-94
1013 EV Amsterdam

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Check more details of their event here.

Crafts Council Nederland Presents: Indigo Sharing Blue Expo

This week the Dutch Design Week started in the South of Holland. A whole week filled with the best design. One of the expo’s is the ‘Indigo: Sharing Blue’ expo by Crafts Council Nederland. It’s a really nice indigo expo from four Dutch designers, Liselore Frowijn, Maaike Gottschal, Aliki van der Kruijs and Adrianus Kundert. They went to Japan to explore the rich history from natural indigo. They studied the Japanese indigo tradition and used the old techinques translated to design and fashion. The result is simply beautiful. You can check it this whole week till the 30th of October. Check it out!

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More info about the indigo expo here:

www.craftscouncil.nl/Indigo-Sharing-blue

The Blue de Gênes Footwear Collection

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The Blue de Gênes brand expanded their clothing collection with high quality footwear. The shoes are a reflection of the brand and fits perfect with the brand dna.

The line is inspired by the Blue de Gênes cuts on jeans, trousers, shirts and leather jackets. That is why you will find the same signature stitching on the shoe line that you see on their leather jackets. Together with their supplier they created three styles that would fit perfectly into the Blue de Gênes collection.

It was very important to find the right manufacturer of shoes who understand the brand look and feel. They found the perfect partner in the northern part of Portugal in the city of Felgueiras. Their partner is a family owned company, founded in the 19th century by a man who sat by the Portuguese Camino and made and repaired shoes for all the weary pilgrims. The same techniques that were used back then are still used to this day giving the family more than 100 years of experience in making shoes.

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The Blue de Gênes footwear collection contains 3 different models:

  • Labo – the Shoe: Named after the ancient city of “Laboriosa”. A Portuguese city where you will find an old Roman bridge called “Ponte de Lima”. A bridge that crosses the river “Lima”. See more pics here.

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  • Minho – the Zipper Boot: Named after the river that springs in the most northern part of Portugal and crosses the border into Spain. See more pics here.

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  • Lima – the Lace Boot: Named after the river that runs alongside parts of the Portuguese Camino. Lima is also the name of one of the oldest cities in Portugal. See more pics here.

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Explore the Blue de Gênes collection here:

www.blue-de-genes.com

Old Glory ‘Nomad’ Jacket by Diesel Jeans From the early ’90′s

Another authentic Old Glory jacket by Diesel Jeans from my personal denim archive. This jacket was made in the early ’90′s, around 1992 – 1992. The model is the Nomad style. I have this Nomad style in more colourways in my collection: Ecru – Grey – Black. Recently I could add this Brown colour also to my collection. There’s still a colowway which I haven’t yet, the denim version with yellow embroidery on the back. The Old Glory line was the best line ever created by Diesel Jeans. It’s a pity that it wasn’t a big commercial success as it was only produced for a few years. This special line was a kind of a homage to Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler. This jacket is inspired by the famous Lee Jeans Rider jacket from the ’30′s. Check here my latest Old Glory treasure.

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www.diesel.com

Send me an email when you have Old Glory items for Sale: wouter@long-john.nl

Global Denim Awards 2016

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Upcoming week the third edition of Global Denim Awards takes place on October 26, in Amsterdam. The Global Denim Awards is the world’s premier platform for the future of denim design, sustainability and craftsmanship. For this edition 11 paired fashion designers and progressive denim mills will present their co-created capsule collections during Global Denim Awards 2016. The 11 collections that result from the collabs between selected mills and designers, will be judged by a jury of international denim experts on the overall look, the innovative nature of the design, and the creative use of denim. The designer of the winning collection will receive a €10,000,- award, made possible by e3 Cotton. An additional award goes to the mill with the most innovative fabric. The winning collection will be exhibited at Kingpins Shows in New York City and Hong Kong, before returning to the Netherlands for Amsterdam Denim Days 2017.
See you there!

Address: Global Denim Awards 2016
De Hallen Studios (next to Denim City)
Hannie Dankbaarpassage 18
1053 RT Amsterdam – NL

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The Designers and Mills;

  • Designer: Marina van Dieren and Christina Albrecht
    (The Netherlands/Germany) X Mill: Advance Denim (China)
  • Designer: MariusPetrus (Belgium)  Mill: Atlantic Mills (Thailand)
  • Designer: EdithMarcel (Italy) X Mill: Berto Industria Tessile (Italy)
  • Designer: Outkastpeople (Turkey) X Mill: Calik Denim (Turkey)
  • Designer: Lavinia Mustapha (Italy-Lebanon) X Mill: Candiani Denim (Italy)
  • Designer: Anbasja Blanken (Curaçao) X Mill: ITV Denim (Italy)
  • Designer: Tess van Zalinge (The Netherlands) X Mill: Knitdigo (Taiwan)
  • Designer: Lisa Konno & Karin Vlug (The Netherlands) X Mill: Prosperity Textile (China)
  • Designer: Roosmarijn Koster (The Netherlands) X Mill: Arvind (India)
  • Designer: Deniz Gür (Turkey) X Mill: Kipas Denim (Turkey)
  • Designer: Leandro Cano (Spain) X Mill: Tejidos Royo (Spain)

The ‘Global Denim Awards’ Jury 2016

Alex Jaspers – Scotch & Soda

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Kelly Harrington – Designer & Trendforcaster

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Sam Lambert & Shaka Maidoh – Art Comes FirstSam Lambert & Shaka Maidoh

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Amy Leverton – Denim Dudes

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Shot with the Winner Best Collection 2015 : Sartoria Diletto with Candiani Denim Mill (Italy)

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Check the recap video from the Global Denim Awards 2015 edition:

http://globaldenimawards.com

Opening Jeans Intelligence Studio by Jack & Jones

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Last week Danish menswear brand, JACK & JONES, opened their doors of their next level store concept; the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO. The first JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO is located in Salzburg, Austria. The Jeans Intelligence collection is the backbone of the JACK & JONES brand. With the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO they want to give the customers a full denim experience. The store has a wide selection of jeans. There’s a denim bar and a wall which is loaded with 18 different jeans styles. Behind the denim bar is the ‘denim dealer’ which is a dedicated jeans expert. With his expertise and production video’s you can get an insight into the denim product and production.

You read that right, The JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO is an outstanding concept. The plan is to open more stores with this unique concept. Here are some shots from this new denim retail store and the opening.

The Store

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Follow the store on their Instagram account: @jeansintelligence_salzburg (#jeansintelligence_salzburg)

Adress: JACK & JONES: JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIOEuropark – Europastrasse 1, 5020 Salzburg – Austria 

Watch the recap movie of the VIP opening

The next JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO is opening this November in Tilburg – NL.

www.jackjones.com

Rambam Denim Days Store Event #7

This upcoming weekend I’m organising already the 7th edition of the very successful Rambam Denim Days at Rambam Store Eindhoven – NL. This event is set-up as a celebration for denim. Every edition we ask people to show their authentic craftsmanship. We’re very proud that Daily Bags is coming this time to show her denim skills. Daily Bags is a denim brand specialising in patchwork handcrafted goods. The designer is Sharifah Isa and her main goal is creating special bags from denim leftovers. Each bag is unique and made of jeans with different shades of blue combined with a wide range of high-quality fabrics and leathers.

Next to that there’s good denim music and fresh made coffee by a true denim barrista. So see you all this upcoming weekend in the South of Holland at Rambam Store.

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www.rambam.nl