Sarva is the new denim outdoor inspired brand from Sweden. All their denims are made in Sweden. This is something really special as in the late 70′s all Swedish factories had to close down due to lower priced competition overseas. Now for the first time in 35 years they can produce jeans in Sweden again together with a small factory that has kept their machines and knowledge from the glory days of Swedish textile production.
One of their denim highlights is the Riekte Sami Selvage. A jean made of a Japanese selvedge fabric from Kaihara, Japan. They have worked with them to develop their own 13.75 oz fabric with the selvedge in their south Sami colors red, blue and green. Peek-a-boo selvedge on the coin pocket and Swedish flag bar tacks to finish of the side seams. The leather patch is made in Sweden with naturally tanned reindeer leather from KERO Company in Sattajärvi. All in all a really nice high-end denim. Good luck guys! And check out their new webshop, it’s now online.
Yesterday I visited the Jean School in Amsterdam because I had an interesting meeting with Mira Copini, who’s the main responsible of this study. Three years ago I did one of the first guest lectures for them on the openings day of this education. It was great to see yesterday that my ‘Worn-Out Projects’ expo, an expo which I did for the Dutch fashion fair Modefabriek some years ago, is still doing his job on the Jean School as inspiration for the students. Thanks again for the great meeting Mira, till soon!
Check the previous Worn-Out Projects expo post here;
Iron Heart was founded by Shinichi Haraki in 2003 as an American workwear inspired denim brand, especially with a focus on bikers. Iron Heart is best known for its use of heavyweight fabric for clothing. The first jeans model released was the 21oz IH-634S, a classic straight cut style, which is the signature of the brand. From their signature they made a nice 21oz heavy black selvedge denim version. The made in Japan denim is very soft and comfortable to wear despite the thickness of the fabric. It is woven with hand-picked American cotton, which is known for its long fibers. Nowadays you see more and more black denim in the premium denim market, which is a nice alternative on the classic blue ones. Looking forward to see a worn-in pair of this one, think it will age very beautiful.
Available at the Burg & Schild Store in Berlin: www.burgundschild.com
Corduroy jackets are timeless classics and this jacket from FHB is one of those. These jackets are from origin workerwear jackets, worn by coal farmers, gardeners and garbage men. Nowadays still in use by roofers and carpenters in Germany.
The jacket has a double button, three buttons, a chest pocket and two outside pockets, two inside pockets and lapel collars. My favourite is the colour black, it will fade very nice at the elbows with wearing. Online store Warenmagazijn stock them, check it out.
Available here: www.warenmagazijn.me
Part 2 of the vintage little Levi’s Jeans ‘cowboy set’ from the ’80′s. The jacket is Levi’s famous trucker jacket but in a kids version with snap buttons and fake breast pockets. Also the cuffs from the sleeves are with snap buttons to close and open it easily. The jacket has an orange tab on the pocket, made from right hand non-selvage fabric. Check in the previous post the jean of this set. This denim suit makes every kid a true American cowboy!
This Levi’s Baby Jeans is a denim pant from my private collection. Size tag 12 months. It is made in U.S.A. and from the 1980′s. On the back pocket you see the famous orange tab. Levi’s originally introduced the orange tab in the late ’60′s as a new line next to their red tab line, but the orange tab pieces were more fashionable items. The jeans is a classic 5 pocket and has a zipper, this is common on kids jeans to close it more easily than buttons. The jean is made from right hand fabric, non-selvage and has a stone washed finish, typical from the 80′s period. I also own the jacket from this little ‘cowboy set’, will show you this one in Part 2.
Natural indigo is one of the oldest methods of bringing colour to clothes. Dutch denim brand K.O.I. (Kings Of Indigo) uses the Indigofera Tincoria plant for the coloring of their garments and for the dye process the brand works together with a company based in India. They dye in the purest form: the fabric is soaked in water for between 1 and 3 days, and then the fabric is dipped in natural indigo 4 times. With this technique you will get the most deep natural indigo tone. K.O.I. made several items this collection using this authentic method, the worker jacket ‘Jonathan’ made of 18oz canvas fabric is one of the iconic pieces. The colour came out really nice!
Selvage denim just won’t quit in the future. That’s no surprise as this is the classic way of making denim fabric. This movie shows how the exhibitors at the Kingpins fabric fair in Los Angeles took selvage to great new levels for F/W 2015. Corduroy, cool blends, deep gorgeous shades of indigo, and even stretch selvage. For me personally I only prefer the classic raw selvage, but great to see the new possibilities. Check it. By the way, the Kingpins show is coming to Amsterdam again on October the 29th and 30th. See you there!
Great short docu about the oldest pair of blue jeans, Levi’s Jeans.
This pair of Gapstar jeans is the first selvage pair made by Dutch company G-star in the mid ’90′s. Gapstar had to change their name into G-star because of the Gap Jeans brand from the U.S. G-star’s first raw selvage denim was the now famous model U.S. Lumber, but this was their first red line selvage denim, pre-washed in an ultra soft left hand fabric quality. It’s a classic five pocket jean, anti-fit model. The jean is in my private collection for a long time and a true collectors item nowadays. This is where it all started…Check out the old back pocket stitching on the really big pockets.
OriJeans from the U.S.A. began as a kickstarter campaign to produce individually hand-crafted jeans, from raw, selvedge denim, delivered at an affordable price. They want to make selvage denim more available for those who appreciate quality and timeless fashion in the same garment. Their filosofie is that most folks cannot afford made-to-order clothing and OriJeans changed that. You choose the fabric (they work with the best fabics like Kaihara, Kuroki, Kurabo and Cone Mills) and details like fit, buttons, thread, etc. and then your favourite pair of jeans is going to be made, tailormade, for you. Their goal is to deliver your dream pair of jeans! In their words: ”We produce selvedge denim jeans that are made-to-order – you design, you customize, and you fit to your body – all at a great price!” Check it out on their website how you can make your dream pair of jeans in a few simple steps. Good luck guys!
Meet the OriJeans team:
In 1937 Levi’s Jeans used large banners to advertise the hidden rivets that replaced the exposed copper rivets on that year’s version of the 501, in response to complaints of exposed rivets damaging customers furniture. These denim banners were used to hang in the shopwindows or inside the stores to promote the brand. The banners were mostly made in really limited numbers, around 200 each, because silk screens in those days weren’t good enough to make more out of them. Nowadays these banners are really hard to find and are true collector items.
This Fall Winter Levi’s Vintage Clothing did something really cool as a kind of a tribute to the vintage banners, they made three classic pieces from reproduction banners: Type 1 jacket from 1936, 501 jeans fit from 1937 and a duffle bag. These limited edition items are made from rigid Cone Mills White Oak selvedge fabric, allowing them to break in beautifully, and uniquely, with time and wear. Check the item here below. They are available at Unionmade Store – US.
The original Levi’s Jeans banner from 1937
The Levi’s Vintage Clothing banner items
Available here: http://unionmadegoods.com
John Edward “Jack” Purcell (December 24, 1903 – June 10, 1991) was a Canadian world champion badminton player. Purcell was the Canadian National Badminton Champion in 1929 and 1930 and declared as world champion in 1933. He retired in 1945, and pursued a career as a stockbroker. Purcell designed an athletic shoe in 1935 for the B.F. Goodrich Company of Canada. The shoe was designed to provide more protection and support on the badminton courts. In the 70′s Converse bought the trademark rights of the Jack Purcell sneakers. The Jack Purcell shoe has an unique blue sole and an unmistakable “Smile” on the front. Today, this iconic shoe has been upgraded with a heavier cap toe and a reinvented logo on the rear.
The Vintage Showroom in London found a really nice and rare vintage JP pair from the ’40′s. These are a particularly nice US Navy example. The model is virtually the same as the classic Jack Purcell badminton shoe, but with a black rubber sole and trim. Great catch! The JP shoe is also my personal favourite sneaker.
Ru Denim is a new denim brand founded by Ruann Da Silva from Amsterdam – NL, original from Sao Paulo. The first two styles are slim fits models, Type 01: 15oz Thai Red Selvedge Denim and Type 02: 17.5oz Japanese Red Selvedge Denim. Both models are made with nice details and links to Amsterdam like the embroidered tulip on the back pocket and the stamp with typical Amsterdam canal houses on the inner pockets. My personal favourite is the Type 02, looking forward to see the first worn-out pair. The specifics of the Type 02 are:
- 17.5oz Japanese Red Selvedge Denim
- Slub Texture
- Hidden Rivets
- Selvedge Fly
- Selvedge Coin Pocket
- Salmon Chambray Pocket Lining
- Inside Pocket Prints
- YKK Royal Copper Buttons and Rivets