One of the highlights last April during the second edition of the Amsterdam Denim Days – Blueprint event was the collaboration between the Italian Candiani denim mill, Jean School / House of Denim and fashion institute Amfi. They collaborated to make live the best pair of jeans you’ve ever seen! The first 100% made in Amsterdam selvage jeans. Something for the denim history books.
The fabric was made live on an old Picanol shuttle loom from the ’50′s. The sound of the loom was magical!The Italian Candiani mill (started in 1938) is the only mill in Europe which still weaves on a day to day basis with these small, machine looms, which drove the first denim boom in the Western world. The result in a unique denim quality.
During the event these three partners could only create 30 of these exclusive custom jeans. So only for a few lucky bastards. Candiani made the denim fabric live and the students from Jean School and Amfi created the personal made jeans on the spot. You could choose your own fit, fabric and weight, buttons, rivets, pockets, patch, colour of thread, etc. This was heaven for every denimhead. I was honoured to be one of those lucky selected people.
The Picanol shuttle loom from the ’50′s.
The pop-up atelier were they made live on the spot your personal handmade jeans.
Tomorrow I will show you my personal handmade jeans which is 100% made in Amsterdam. So cool and proud to have one in my private collection. Big bravo for this great initiative! Keep up the good work guys!
This upcoming Sunday Paul van der Blom is organising a new edition of his ‘Denim Ride Out’ in Rotterdam. Paul started this event some years ago and is growing every edition. The event started of course as an event about riding your bike in totally denim, but nowadays it is much more than that. It a true denim festival with music, food, cafe racers, but also some of my denim friends are showing their latest (denim) collections like Paul Kruize, Butcher of Blue, Tulp Jeans, Blue Days Footwear, Oyuki Denim, Deadstock Ressurection, Mr Ed, Kurt’s, Amsterdenim, Warenmagazijn, Denim.Lab and Ger Weijsman (Red Wing shoemaker specialist) to name a few. Great to see that the event is grown to a next denim level. Keep up the good work Paul and enjoy! Cheers.
Here are some sneak pages from the new Japanese Clutch magazine #40. The magazine will be out on 23th of May. The best part is that it’s coming with a special Nigel Cabourn section/book with his private collection. Looking forward to this one!
Yesterday I visited one of the finest denim stores in Holland, Country House Authentic in Rotterdam. CH is founded in 1981 by Harry Polderman. He was one of the first stores in Holland which started with premium denim and denim in general. In those 34 years he has had several different store locations and he’s now active with this store (check also his other store at Kareldoormanstraat 344 – Rotterdam) on the new upcoming shopping area. His store is filled with the most beautiful brands like Denham Jeans, Stone Island, Indigo People, Filson, Red Wing, Pike Brothers, Dukes, CP Company, etc. And from now on he also stocks our Butts and Shoulders brand. We made a nice pop-up in his window where we are showing the magical ageing process of our natural vegetable tanned leather. Of course all of our virgin top line products are now available at Country House at the Meent 70a. If you’re going to Rotterdam, please stop by at this nice authentic store and have a nice chat with Harry. Thank you very much for your support, great to see our brand in your great store! Till soon!
Came across an interesting serie of denim production videos hosted on the G-Star YouTube channel. It shows all the different stages from cotton till finishing. Check it out and learn more about the entire production of the denim fabric. Enjoy!
Got my hands on this really nice and heavy worn original vintage Lee Jeans 101-J (Jacket) from the ’50′s. It’s the popular Rider jacket which was introduced in 1931. It was a slim denim jacket made for cowboys. The Rider jacket has some features for cowboys like the inward breast pockets which made it easier for them to reach inside the pocket with the opposite hand, especially when riding a horse. It also has a wider waistband for a better fit making sure the jacket didn’t fold upwards. On the back you see the famous cat-eye buttons.
My jacket has the red/yellow neck label which refers to the ’50′s. This label was made from 1955 to 1962. The start of the cool rock & roll era. It’s completely faded and worn-out. In these times they stitched clothing with cotton thread and over wearing the thread broke at several places. That’s why you see lots of old denim pieces are broken onto the sleeves and at the front and the back. Later they develop cotton thread combined with polyester which is much stronger. The jacket is a nice denim history addition in my private collection. Check the jacket here below!
Japan meets Italy in this sneaker collaboration. Edwin Jeans teamed-up with Superga footwear for this Spring Summer ’15. Superga started 100 years ago in Turan producing shoes with vulcanised rubber soles and the Classic Superga 2750 Heritage style was born. For this collab they produced a tonal version of their iconic canvas tennis shoe. Crafted from a fully breathable cotton, the simple canvas silhouette has been stripped back, in-keeping with the ancient Japanese ‘Shibui’ aesthetic of appearing simple but including subtle details.
White sneakers are the best to wear with an unwashed denim so the indigo from the jean can bleed onto the white canvas. One of my personal favorites. Perfect collab with one of the oldest Japanese denim brands. The sneakers are available in Edwin stores located in Paris, Berlin and London.
This season the Italian brand Roy Roger’s comes with a collection as a tribute to the summer! The collection is an eclectic mix of floral and Hawaiian patterns. It’s a tribute to JFK style and the world of surfing, mixing both distinctive traits in a collection that speaks about refined elegance in its simplicity. Highlights of the collection are the classic Oxford button-down shirts with the contemporary flavor of the overprinting: flowers, pin-ups, american trucks and pineapples are the main characters of the SS15 men’s collection. Let’s start the summer!
The collection is also available on Roy Roger’s shop-on-line at:
Denim.Lab is founded by Sander van de Vecht from Holland. After working for several denim brands Sander decided to choose his own denim road. He’s active in the denim industry for many years and is very experienced. He put all his knowledge in Denim.Lab and develops denim collections as private label for several big chain stores in Holland and also for denim brands. His showroom / office is something really cool. It’s the ultimate surrounding for every denimhead. Filled with the most beautiful selvage qualities from all over the world. I like the industrial look combined with the clean walls. Sander is also working with Denim.Lab as a seperate denim label. Recently I got a regular tapered from his collection. The jean is made from 13.5oz right hand deadstock rigid selvage quality. Straight classic fit with some nice features like the leather patch (from Italy), the old school rivets, the fully lined inside yoke and inside pockets with chambray. Also the backpockets are lined! The coin pocket has a selvage as well. And what it makes really outstanding is that the jean is packed in a cotton bag. All in all a perfect product! Something to check it our for yourself on his website. Thanks Sander and keep up the good work!
Yesterday I visited the great store Kings & Queens in Antwerp – BE. The store is owned by Hans Bollen who’s a really cool guy with an authentic passion for clothing and craftsmanship in general. The store is filled with amazing brands like Eat Dust, Pike Brothers, Deus, Armox Lux, K.O.I., Dickies, Grenson and many more. In the back of the store there’s a Red Wing shop-in-shop. So lot’s of cool stuff! I am very proud that Hans will stock our Butts and Shoulders brand from next September. If you’re planning a city trip to Antwerp or a Holiday, visit this distinctive store. You won’t be disappointed. See you soon Hans!
Received some pics from my buddy Wouter Reimert from Vif Jeans (www.vifjeans.nl) - Rijssen (NL) from a nice worn-out Homage to Lee Jeans by Evisu Jeans. Their customer Erik Meijer is wearing this beauty for a lot of years already. The jean has a really nice vintage fading pattern. Well done Erik!
Owner: Erik Meijer from Wierden, Holland
Brand: Evisu Jeans – Homage to Lee Jeans (Part of the Homage to Levi’s – Lee & Wrangler Jeans collection)
Received yesterday a great package from Livd. Livd is a creative design atelier founded by Linda van Deursen en Dejan Toskic in Utrecht – NL. They create the most beautiful creations for the fashion, music and theatre business. Besides that they make handmade products like the canvas totebag which I got from them. The tote bag or shopper is made from high standard canvas and leather. Simple but timeless design. Also the packaging was something different, an envelope which was made with a sewing machine. Very original. Check some of their cool rojects on their website. Thanks for the great gift Linda and Dejan!
The Japanese boro style is popular at the moment. You see different variations in the denim collections from several brands. All inspired by the repaired and patched items from the authentic farmers and fishermens in Japan. Nudie Jeans developed a nice tee with this inspiration as well, Raw Hem T-Shirt Organic Boro Blue. This print is inspired by an antique futon cover. The patchwork print will differ slightly, making each one unique. The tee itself is made in soft, slubby jersey. Clean look with narrow neck rib in self fabric and raw edge roll up hems at sleeve and bottom. Nice one!
Farmtown Denim is a one-woman (!) brand from Sacramento, California – USA. It’s not common to see a denim brand founded by a woman. Great to see this initiative! Farmtown Denim was founded by Melissa Farmer. She had the idea that with enough time and effort, anything can be possible. Her first product was a jeans, but now she’s making a lot of cool small denim products, and also from natural tanned leather. The products are bow ties, bracelets, totebags, watch straps, etc. All the products are available on her site and are made entirely by hand by Melissa in her little workshop.
The latest addition in my private collection is this deadstock Wrangler Blue Bell reproduction Champion Jacket. The Champion jackets are special items, even the re-productions are not very easy to find anymore. Since a couple of years Wrangler unfortunately stopped producing this special premium Blue Bell line. The first jacket produced by Wrangler was in 1948. The same model as this reproduction, with buttons on the front (but without the embroidery on the back). These buttons appear until 1950, when the buttons were replaced by a zip front.
The original rodeo jackets were made for the best rodeo riders, so it wasn’t a piece in the regular collection. This also explains why these original jackets are really hard to find and very rare. True collectors items. My latest treasure has never worn, and also has the great moments comic book included.
My buddy Sebastian Gerritsen from Kurt’s Amsterdam launched his fresh Kickstarter project this week. Sebastian started his brand a couple of years ago with beautiful handwoven scarves. After this success he added a classic workwear jacket in his collection, also handmade, handwoven and coloured with natural indigo. With his Kickstarter project he want to promote his new t-shirt range which is made from hemp and natural indigo.
Sebastian Gerritsen – Founder Kurt’s Amsterdam
The new t-shirts range is made from high quality hemp with beautiful and modern designs, that are durable and are produced locally by real craftsmen. With the combination of hemp and natural indigo the unique t-shirts are made from sustainable materials, printed with traditional techniques of silk screening or dyed in indigo.
With Kurt’s he believes that he should again follow his heart when making clothing. Something which the fashion industry of today has lost when fast fashion came to the stage. With that, a few beautiful and sustainable techniques and crafts have been forgotten. That’s what he want to change. All the t-shirts are manufactured in Porto, Portugal.
He took a deep dive into the old techniques, fibers and production processes and found the answer in hemp, natural indigo dying and silkscreen printing. Hemp is a long forgotten and truly sustainable fiber that is comfortable, strong and breathable. In their opinion it is the perfect material to make clothing. In silkscreen printing and natural indigo dying we came upon the workmanship we were looking for. At Kurt’s they share a love for natural indigo (indigofera tinctoria Linn), a central theme used in all of their products.
Meet my denim friend Antonio di Battista from Italy. Antonio is a denim designer and denim collector. His collection is an extremely huge and rare with over 3.000 original vintage pieces. Besides that he also has his own denim brand called Blue Blanket (www.blueblanketjeans.com). Check out the video where he explains more about his denim expo which was part of Denim Boulevard 2014 in Milan – Italy. Hope to see you soon again Antonio!