The denim fabric show Kingpins visited the Amsterdam based denim store Tenue de Nimes last October to meet with co-founder Rene Strolenberg. Rene speaks about how they started with their store, their retail vision, etc. Check it our for yourself in the ‘Denim field trip Amsterdam’ video!
Raw Bible is a high quality brand guide for manufacturing brands. The Raw Bible is filled with the best crafted goods as denim, boots, jackets, watches, leather products, eye wear, interior design, bikes, etc. You name it and it features in the Raw Bible. All the products have in common that they are made with the authentic craftsmanship and they are all unique. In their own words: ‘Raw Bible is a manifesto for quality, passion and craftsmanship’.
Next to the very high-quality made Raw Bible book their is an online store finder on their site. The store finder helps you to check out the products from the Raw Bible live in a store which is closest to you. This is a perfect tool to get in contact with the crafted goods so you can feel, touch and explore them by yourself. Perfect concept and publication. Well done guys!
The Raw Bible contains 304 pages, hard cover, embossed and embellished thread binding for longevity in use 900 grams, 24 cm x 16 cm and English text.
Order your copy here: http://rawbible.com
Last week I visited the 4th edition of the Selvedge Run fair in Berlin. The Selvedge Run is a trade show for high-quality menswear, shoes and accessories. The location of the show, Kulturbrauerei Berlin, is really nice and a perfect link to the authentic exhibitors. On the show you can only find the best of the best brands available worldwide. Next to discover new treasures for your store this is also the place to be to catch-up with likeminded people which are sharing the same passion for durable and outstanding made products. Here are some of them shot by Sportswear Magazine.
Lennaert Nijgh started his brand with a true passion for dry selvedge denim which eventually turned into Benzak Denim Developers. The first ‘Made in Japan’ styles were developed in 2011 and hit the market in September 2013. After years of slowly building the BDD brand, in 2016 he released his 2nd line, BENZAK – EUROPEAN MADE.
As it goes with many brands, the first orders are placed by those who are close to you, your friends. In the new Benzak lookbook you can meet some of them wearing the brand on their own way.
Benzak Denim founder Lennaert Nijgh
Indigo People creates unique indigo pieces based on authentic craftsmanship. The Indigo People items are a perfect addition on your denim outfit and combines textile designs with the classic jeans attitude. For Spring/Summer 2017 Indigo People explored the traditional batik printing technique combined with indigo dyeing. The inspiration for this new collection came from antique batik textiles and vintage Japanese shibori designs.
Batik is a wax-resist printing and dyeing process applied to the finished textile. Batik is either created by hand drawing with the melted wax using a sprouted tool called ‘canting’, or by printing the wax with a handmade copper stamp. The wax blocks the dyestuff to penetrate into the textile. Then the cloth is dipped piece by piece multiple times in natural indigo by hand, to achieve the deep indigo colour. To remove the printed wax, the cloth is boiled in hot water. Once the wax is removed the printed areas regain their raw colour and the artwork appears on the textile.
Great to see that this indigo brand is expanding their collection with shirts next to their beautiful scarves. Keep up the good work guys. Take a look at the Indigo People SS17 collection.
Gaku Tsuyoshi from Tokyo – Japan started his FDMTL brand in 2005 because he couldn’t find the jeans he was looking for. This is the most common drive why people start with their own business. Gaku produced distressed jeans for several years before he expanded FDMTL with indigo fabrics and patchwork designs. Next to his very impressive collections Gaku also collabs with a lot of high-quality brands to create outstanding and special products. In 2016 for example he teamed-up with skateboard brand Vans to develop a special Era and Slip-On version.
That same year he also did a super nice collab together with Dover Street Market Ginza and created a boro inspired Eames Chair.
For this year we can expect collaborations with Vans (Sk8-Hi, Slip-on), New Era (5950 fitted hat), and Masterpiece (rucksack, tote) will all use a new Deep Indigo Collection design. Other notable collaborations include Jam Homemade (accessories), Chup (socks), Danner (hiking boots), and Seviskig (leather jackets).
My friends from the Heddels platform spent the afternoon with Gaku Tsuyoshi at his FDMTL’s flagship store, Catii Tokyo, in Meguro. He spoke with Heddels about his roots in denim, his love for boro fabrics, and his recent successful creative collaborations.
Check the video of the Heddels X FDMTL studio visit;
After one year of developing and testing I’m very proud to show you our latest Butts and Shoulders member: The Sneakers. After the very successful launch of our ‘Goodyear Welted’ boots last year we decided to make a kind of homage to another icon.
The specs of our Butts and Shoulders sneakers are;
- Designed in the Netherlands, produced in Portugal
- First production run: 100 pairs
- Natural Vegetable Leather
- Cork and leather insole with foam cushioning and Butts and Shoulders logo engraving
- Handstitched bridge lining
- Clean Eyelets
- PMU outsole
- Leather foxing with double stitching lining
- Hand numbered on tongue
- All leather innercase
- Cork-filled midsole
- Extra pair of dark brown laces
Take a look at our new Butts and Shoulders product: The Sneakers. For the promo of the sneakers we made again a film. The shots in the film are made in The Netherlands and in Portugal. The film is made by the talented Edwin van der Sande. Meet below The Sneakers!
Check out the promo film of The Sneakers:
The sneakers are available here:
This little vintage Sanforized blue overall is from my private archive. It’s a boys overall from Sanforized made in the 1940′s. These kind of overalls were worn by farmers in the U.S. This overall is a small one, waist size 20. Typical about these 1940′s workwear is the orange thread. It has only one fly button, donut button, and one top button with the brand name Sanforized on it. The pockets are fastened with flat rivets. Like the most overalls you could wear this with suspenders. The suspenders on this overall is fastened by hand and is an original Sanforized one but without the original buttons. The backpockets are simple, plain, without any arcuates. The overall is made of right hand non-selvage fabric. The overall is a true American workwear style.
Rabbie Denim (R.D.G.) jeans is a denim label based in Glasgow,Scotland. The company was founded in 2013 by jeans designer Rabbie Denim. Up until now Rabbie has been making commission based one off pieces, which has led to boasting clients such as Manchester United and Barcelona Fc. Rabbie was recently described in the Financial Times contemporary arts issue as most creative jeans designer in the field.
Below the Rabbie Denim Tartan jeans in 14oz soft indigo Wembley denim. The jean has a tartan yoke and ticket pocket. Rabbie jeans are always an one off piece as they put a different slant on each pair. Check it out!
Dutch lifestyle denim brand Chasin’ launched their latest collaboration: Royal Attitude Denim Collection. With this collab Chasin’ recycled uniforms from the Royal Netherlands Navy. The marine theme fits perfect with Chasin’ brand pay-off: We Never Stop! Training and perseverance are essential, combined with the right ‘attitude’. The project was conceived together with James Veenhoff, founder of House of Denim Amsterdam.
Through recycling of naval pieces Chasin’ created 2 stand out jeans, both in a 11,5oz quality. 1 is the iconic Ego jeans, which is the brand’s representation of the classic 5 pocket, with added stretch. A more contemporary fit is the cropped chino fit. For these jeans unique washes were created, inspired by the ocean. Next to the denims, the collection contains a denim jacket and several tops. The collection is now available through some selected stores as: De Bijenkorf, X Bank, en Denim City and some Score stores.
Congrats guys with the launch of this great and creative idea. Jeans and Navy are a perfect match!
Celebrating the 10th sign of the Chinese Zodiac, Evisu Jeans brings the “Year of the Rooster” jeans. This collectable Evisu Jeans is made in limited quantities and represents the craftsmanship of Evisu. The jeans has embroidery details on it’s signature 2008 regular fit selvedge jeans. The coin pocket is made with red Godhead quality guaranteed print. The Kanji character of Rooster and Katakana characters of Evisu Jeans are featured on the rear pockets, and motifs of fierce Rooster and Kamon are embroidered on the black Daicock insert.
This deluxe pair of Evisu Jeans comes with a unique number on the gold leather patch, as well as a premium wooden box engraved with Kanji character of Rooster for the collectors. The specs of this special Evisu Jeans edition are;
• Year of the Rooster Limited Edition
• 100% Cotton
• Raw selvedge denim
• 2008 Regular fit
• Button fly
• Gold leather patch with limited edition number
Endrime is a denim brand by the talented denim designer Mohsin Sajid from London – UK. After working for many famous and big brands as Levi’s Japan, Edwin Jeans and Evisu (to name a few) he started his own Endrime brand. With Endrime Mohsin creates a denim collection for men and women. The Endrime collection contains t-shirts, shirts, sweats, jeans, jackets and accessories. All made with high-quality fabrics with excellent details, just like this French worker jacket.
This French worker jacket has selvegde details on the chest pockets and a down centre back. It has a real Endrime leather patch which is unique on each jacket. On the front it has patched pockets. The blue colour is very intense of the fabric. The Endrime French worker jacket is a classic with fits perfect with your favorite pair of jeans for the authentic look.
Denim designer and denim collector Antonio di Battista released his 3rd book: My Archive III. The theme of the book is ‘When jeans were used to work’. The book is again published by Denim Boulevard / Crackers Magazine from Italy. It’s the third edtion in the great My Archive book collection range. The third edition gives you again an insight in his extremely huge and rare denim and workwear collection. The content of the book shows American workwear from the late 1800 till 1950. Antonio di Battista is a true fanatic denim collector and travels around the world for more than 25 years to find the most amazing and unique vintage pieces. Most of his treausres are coming from trips to the U.S. and Japan.
In his new book My Archive III ‘When jeans were used to work’ Antonio shows his love for repaired, worn-out and patched denim items. The items showed in the book were worn by workers which repaired their items over and over again which results in ‘natural denim art’. Next to expand his very rare denim collection Antonio uses these examples for his daily design inspiration. The first chapter of the book is a kind of homage to the legendary Cone Mill from the U.S. which exists more than 125 years. The other chapters are about Fades, Distressed and Repair.
It’s really great to see all those close-ups shots from the stains, fades, rips, scratches, repairs and patches. It shows the beauty of denim! The book is made of heavy fullcolour paper and contains 148 pages. Many thanks for the copy Antonio and bravo! Looking forward to see My Archive #4!
Antonio di Battista
If you missed his previous My Archive books check them here below;
My Archive III ‘When jeans were used to work’
Textilia Magazine is organising a new edition of their Trend Safari workshop. As usual they organise it at a very inspiring surrounding in Rotterdam called Innovation Dock. The workshop gives you insight and inspiration for the new upcoming trends for Spring Summer 2018. The theme of the workshop is ID Industry, an industry of Influence & Desire. Trendwatcher Jan Agelink will be your host to get you in the right SS18 mood. The workshop will be held on Januari the 10th, check all the details here.
Blue de Gênes is a denim inspired brand from Denmark which takes their inspiration from the origin of jeans. That’s also how they came up with their strong name, Blue de Gênes. Their name refers to the harbor workers in Genoa, Italy.
Next to their outstanding denim collection they bring every season much more than that; shirts, pants, knitwear, footwear and accessories. It’s a total look for men. For the Winter 2016 collection Blue de Gênes also made a very wide range on classic jackets, blazers and waistcoats. They introduced new and unique styles, all made in fine Italian quality fabrics. And all the items are made with the typical Blue de Gênes details like the real horn buttons or corozo nut buttons. Below some perfect Winter shots of the Blue de Gênes Oria Jeep Blazer and the San Giorgio Jeep Blazer.
Explore the Blue de Gênes collection here:
The new episodes of some of the finest Denim Dudes and Denim Dudettes by Amy Leverton are now online. The denim portraits gives a perfect insight what the true denimheads are wearing nowadays. Great work Amy! Enjoy.
Sofia Myrtorp, from Real McCoys store in London. Shot in East London.
Karlmond Tang, Fashion Writer and Art Director. Shot in East London.
Roxanne Thomas, denim designer for Lee Jeans. Shot in Amsterdam.
Samuel Trotman, Denim Editor at WGSN. Shot in East London.
Jessica Gebhart, Trend Forecaster and Owner, i-and-me, shot at Tower Bridge, London.
Today I want to share one of the best fadings from my private denim collection. Personally I really like this kind of old school hardcore fadings. The jeans is a vintage Levi’s Jeans from the ’60′s. It’s the 517 style – Boot Cut - model, which is a typical ’60′s fit and very popular at that time. The jeans has an Orange Big E Tab on the backpocket. The Orange Tab collection was introduced as a more fashionable and affordable collection with bell-bottoms and boot cut jeans. Levi’s Jeans introduced their Orange Tab collection in 1969 and the Big E tabs were only produced until 1971, so a vintage pair with an Orange Big E Tab is quite hard to find. The back of the button is stamped with digit number 8 and the jeans features a Talon 42 zipper. The jeans is made from non-selvage right hand fabric.
This Levi’s Jeans has a true vintage natural faded pattern. The jeans is repaired a couple of times which makes the jeans more special. There’s a lot of brown patina on the jeans which appear when you wear your jeans very hard and long without washing. On the front you see beautiful whiskers and on the back the classic honeycombs. A lot of thread is broken and replaced with purple thread by the previous owner. Back in the days jeans were made with cotton thread which isn’t so strong as the cotton/polyester thread which they use nowadays. On the backpockets you see two colours of threads, this is very common on original Big E’s. The crotch is repaired more than once. This vintage pair of Levi’s Jeans is a prefect example of a hippie pair of jeans with amazing different shades of blue. Viva America!