My latest vintage catch is this Levi’s Jeans ‘Big E’ type 3 trucker jacket from 1968 – 1969. What I personally like about this jacket is that it has a kind of virgin look, bright and clean! As I have several vintage denim ‘Big E’ jackets this one immediatly catch my eyes with his authentic canvas look. The jacket has the number 524 buttons which correspondence with the year 1968 -1969. The pre-owner told me that he purchased the jacket in The Hague (NL) during his youth. Probably this was his favourite jacket which he had for a very long time. He added his name inside at the back of the famous flap pocket. Now it was time to clean up his closet and wanted to give the jacket a new life by a new owner. Glad that I had the opportunity to add this beauty in my private collection.
Sometimes you bump into something really special, something unique and different. Last week I discovered the new label Dumluck. Dumluck has a great philosophy: ”While mass production is taking over the world, we prefer to make smaller quantities for a smaller group of denim enthusiasts”. How do they do this? They buy old deadstock denim fabrics from the best mills worldwide and make special jeans and jackets on order. You will give your size and they will make by hand the jean with the fabric they got their hands on.
This week I received a great present from the Dumluck crew, a jacket called Mr. Jaquette. It’s a handmade slightly slim fit denim jacket finished with silver bras metal rivets and buttons, made out of a nice 14oz left hand Japanese plain selvage denim from Kaihara Mills. The jacket has also two chest flap pockets. All the Dumluck products are made in a little atelier in Amsterdam on vintage machines. Give them a few days to make, pack and ship your order.
All in all a perfect product for a really good price, good fit and amazing deadstock fabric! They really make denim garments for the true blue believers! Many thanks for this super nice jacket, it’s ready for breaking them in! Check it for yourself.
The making of my Mr. Jaquette jacket
The book ‘Toys for Boys’ is the ultimate book for men who still likes to play! Published by the Swan Group, the 8th edition speaks about luxury products and wisely chose to feature the Italian brand Roy Roger’s in the selection.
The Florence based brand, part of Sevenbell Group, brings a casual total look men this Spring. From shirts, shoes, accessories to jeans, it all has an authentic feel and are classics full of stylish details.
After all these years, the brand is still going strong and are planning international openings of new flagship stores. In addition to the four Italian ones, Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Shanghai and Hong Kong are on the list to get to know the famous back-pocket triangle of Roy Roger’s.
Below some of the published Roy Roger’s items in the book ‘Toys for Boys’.
Photographer credits: Alessandro Moggi
Roy Roger’s is available to shop online at: www.sevenbell.com
Lee Jeans celebrates their 125th anniversary this year. Henry David started in 1889 with the brand and became famous with their iconic workwear clothing. They developed several historical items like the bib overall, the first zip fly jean, the successful Rider jacket and Storm Rider jacket. All true classics for cowboys, rodeo heroes and rebellious teenagers like James Dean and Marilyn Monroe. Let’s Celebrate!
Also the Lee Jeans advertising were very progressive, see here below.
It was the year 2008 that a great project was started called ‘Amsterdam Denim Head Derby (ADHD)’. Only 30 young denim devotees were invited to be part of the first annual Amsterdam Denim Head Derby. What is a Derby? Well it’s a game, a match, a contest. The person who makes from the jean the most beautiful worn-out project will be the denim master. The jean is made a of Japanese purple selvage, 14.5oz, and handpainted leather patch. Limited to 30 pairs only.
Of the players of this competition was Alex Jaspers, a true devoted passionated denim guy from Amsterdam. Now responsible for the Scotch & Soda denim division. Check his master piece here below.
- Owner: Alex Jaspers from Amsterdam, Holland
- Brand: Project: Amsterdam Denim Head Derby (ADHD), Japanese purple selvage, 14.5oz
- Age: 6 months
- Treatment: No wash
You can check this great pair at the Hall Of Fade at Vif Jeans Store in Rijssen, NL;
The original 5 pocket jean. Below the Levi’s Vintage Jeans model 501XX from 1933 with belt loops and the now famous red selvage fabric. The final pocket (added in 1901) was the left backpocket, also known as the fifth pocket. This was the start of the famous term 5 pocket jeans. The shape of the 501XX model from 1933 is still antifit, with straight legs, suspender buttons and with belt loops. Featuring the crotch rivet, cinch, leather patch and single needed arcs done by hand. The red selvage fabric is shrink-to-fit and made by Cone Mills. The jean is made in U.S.A. This is a replica from years ago, have worn it once, so it’s almost brand new. One of my favourites and revolutionary in the denim history.
‘Unwashed Denim’ brings an Iphone case made from 12.5oz Japanese sanforized selvedge denim. The case is lined with a 10oz Kurabo Mills indigo stripe denim that complements the sleeve perfectly.
Evisu Jeans was founded in Osaka Japan in 1991 and is named after the Japanese god of prosperity Ebisu. Initially only around 14 pairs of jeans a day were created, each one caringly hand-painted with the now famous seagull logo. Founder of Evisu, Mr. Hidehiko Yamane, was inspired by the Levi’s Jean 501 from 1944 (This was the jean with the painted arcs on the back pockets) to start his own brand Evisu.
Recently I came across this Evisu jean made with vintage Japanese kimono fabric. The jean is from the early Evisu days, around 1995, and is still in unwashed condition. The jean was created out of the passion from both Mr. Hidehiko and his wife who collects vintage kimono’s. This amazing pair combines the good ingredients from Japan, high quality, craftsmanship and history. Ofcourse the jean is made from red line Japanese selvage in a right hand fabric and made in Italy. All in all a great addition in my private collection.
This pair of vintage Levi’s Jeans 501 is from my private collection. The jean is from the early ’80′s and is made after the famous ‘Big E’ (untill 1971) period. It’s a shrink-to-fit fabric with a red line selvage. What’s nice to see is that Levi’s is printed on the red tab, instead of a woven red tab. The back of the button is marked with the digits 524, which stand for productions from the ’80′s. The number 5 refers to productions made in U.S.A. The backpockets are reinforced with black woven bar tacks instead of rivets. The jean has a great faded worn patern.
This weekend I got a nice denim from Ben Fokkema who is the founder of the new denim brand ‘Amsterdenim’. The denim received a special treatment, a tanning washing done by hand. Back in the days they did the same with sailing sails to make them more durable. They dipped the sails in a heated big bucket with water and crunched bark from an oak-tree. The sails got a brown tan, this procedure we call tanning. Profession wise it’s a tannery. Normally a cotton sail would last 1.5 year and a tanned sail will last 20 years. As you probably know the first dungaree was made from sail or tent canvas. This is the connection with the past. Amsterdenim was the first with the tanned denim. This jean got a nice natural brown finishing.
Many thanks Ben for this great addition in my private collection and good luck with the sales, Cheers!
One of the latest (deadstock) Wrangler ‘Blue Bell’ re-production denims from my private collection. Denim has a factory rinse, model Roger with white right hand selvage and delivered in a special box.
Denimhead Fabian Krommedijk, working at Best Of Brands (BOB) Store in Hoogland, did a really good job on his Atelier laDurance Prescott. After 2,5 years of daily wear his Worn-Out Project got a natural rinse in sea. The jean got some nice different shades of blue. Good to see you last week, cheers!
- Owner: Fabian Krommedijk form Holland
- Work: Sales at Best Of Brands (BOB) Store Hoogland
- Brand: Atelier laDurance, fit Prescott 14oz Japanese selvage
- Age: 2,5 years
- Treatment: One rinse in sea
If you have a Worn-Out Project send it to: email@example.com
We all know the famous Red Tab from Levi’s Jeans. The first red tab appeared on the right pocket in the year 1936 and the word LEVI’S (also known as Big E) is stitched in white in all capital letters on one side only. The red tab was created to differentiate Levi’s jeans from competitors. Levi’s produced the Big E tab till 1971. After 1971 Levi’s changed the tab letters in small ones, Levi’s instead of LEVI’S. For the real denim collectors it’s a true treasure when you find an original Levi’s Big E item.
In the Big E area there were some more different tab colors on the back pocket besides the famous red one; orange, white and black. Orange Tab was for fashion jeans, White Tab was generally for Levi’s For Gals (except it was also for corduroy). The Black Tab with gold lettering meant the pants had undergone the STA-PREST process (non iron).
Years ago the Japanese denim brand Evisu made a homage to the Big 3 denim brands: Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler. Each homage denim came with the typical details from the brand. Levi’s had the famous red tab and made from right hand fabric, Lee had the lazy S (bulls long horn) and made from left hand fabric and Wrangler had the leather backpocket patch and made from broken twill fabric. The typical signs were added with the legendary Evisu paint. Now after some years my Evisu Heritage Homage collection is completed as I recently found the homage to Levi’s. All three are in deadstock unwashed/used condition. Great to see these three legends on this creative way.