This Rising Sun Jeans, style Blacksmith, is made from American 14oz dark indigo, selvage denim, reinforced acorn-back pockets, continuous fly detail, & heavy duty pocket lining, signature brown duck wasteband facing and double-Prong copper clinch rivets.
Interview founder Rising Sun Jeans, Mike Hodis
The Nudie Jeans: Grim Tim Dry Selvage is the top of the line selvage quality from Nudie. It’s actually the original selvage denim that dates back to the day they were born. This fabric is a tight weave, right hand construction with slubby yarns. It has orange in the selvage edge, a feature made exclusively for Nudie Jeans. The coin pocket also features a selvage edge. Organic silver trims and organic pocket lining. Made with Japanese 13.5oz. red cast rigid denim. 100% organic cotton. Thanks for sending me a pair of these Anthony (sales rep for Nudie Holland), cheers! Below some details pics.
Lee Jeans dropped a very nice new special edition of the 101s Slim Rider. They made a jean with two different fabrics on the front and the back. It’s now available at Cultizm, check the specs here;
- Style: The Original Slim Rider
- Fit: Slim Fit
- Color: Indigo
- Wash: Raw
- Material: 100% Cotton
- 13oz Green Selvage Denim (front) with 12oz White Selvage Denim (back)
- 2 premium denims – one contemporary garment
- Lefthand and righthand twill
- Leather patch with logo
Available here: www.cultizm.com
Take a look into the Hiut Denim factory. In the factory they can make 100 pairs of Hiut’s a week. Pure blue craftsmanship. Check the nice video here below.
My friend Antonio di Battista (founder from Blue Blanket Jeans) from Italy just came back from California where he was for the Denimbruin event. During the event he presented his new jean inspired by the gold rush era in collaboration with Cory Piehowicz (a.k.a. Bandit Photograph). The jean they made is based on a pair of 1800′s waist overalls which Cory found in the desert when he was on a trip with his buddies Mike Harris (writer from the book Jeans from the old West) and Russ. Everything was made by hand and with old machines using a Japanese pure indigo denim made especially for this jean. The jean will be produced as a limited edion and will come this Fall. Really nice project between two authentic passionated guys! Below some pictures of the jean.
Antonio di BattistaPhoto by Cory Piehowicz
Cory Piehowicz wearing the Bandit Overalls
www.blueblanketjeans.com & http://corypiehowicz.com
It’s already twelve years ago that Atelier LaDurance was launched in the stores. The brand was founded by Gerard Backx. ALD were premium denim items full of great details and super Japanese quality! Next to the amazing products the branding was extremely good! All done by true craftsman Boy Bastiaens (www.stormhand.com) from Maastricht – NL. He’s responsible for the whole creative identity of this brand. One of the best ideas from Boy was to make a simple connection to France (in the beginning the collections were made in France!) and to men and women, he came with the idea to make the inner pockets with a fabric refering to the French jam jars. So for men it’s blue with white and women red with white. Also the repairkit bullet delivered with every item was amazing. Besides that the all over branding was something new, something different. The total look and especially the fits from ALD had a link to workwear from the ’40′s and ’50′s.
A while ago I got my hands on this deadstock Atelier LaDurance Prescott workwear jacket made of 11oz Japanese raw fabric. I already have one in my collection, but that one is already washed one time. Check the jacket here below for all the great details from the great denim brand which unfortunately isn’t available anymore.
Edwin Jeans teamed up with department store Liberty from London – UK. Liberty is an amazing classic store, the building is beautiful, and world famous with their colourful all over prints. Great to see this combo, classic fabric mixed with denim. For this collab they used the ED-80 fit and is made of an exclusive 14oz Japanese red selvage, rinsed denim, with the addition of iconic Liberty print fabric on the interior yoke and pocket lining. This exclusive jean is available from today at Liberty only.
www.edwin-europe.com & www.liberty.co.uk
Great detail from this jean brand is that all the inner pockets are very deep to carry a lot of stuff with you like your wallet, keys, phone, cash, cigars etc. This detail is one of my personal favourite parts of a good jean.
Dutch denim brand G-Star celebrates their 25th anniversary this year and to celebrate this they launched a few classic from their archive back in the stores. The classics are the G-star Elwood, Faeroes, Lumber and US First. They came in different fabrics, from 25 years of wear wash to 25oz fabric. The US Lumber is my personal favourite, it was origanally introduced in 1994 and it was their miner inspired jean made of red listing selvage. For collectors this is a wanna have, so now it’s the time to get your hands on a pair, this time in a heavy 25oz fabric. This will last your lifetime! In the words from G-star: ”The kind of denim that can only be created on old shuttle looms in the hands of skilled craftsmen”. Great to see these classic back again and enjoy your anniversary!
The guys behind denim brand ‘Denim Demon’ from Sweden introduced their new brand called ‘Sarva’ during the last fashion fairs. The jeans are made from Japanse selvage fabric with a link to their Sami roots. The tops are outdoor items which has a really nice and rich look and feel. Below a sneak preview.
Recently I received this nice ‘Amsterdenim’ workwear jacket from founder Ben Fokkema. Ben gave me last year the first jacket ever made for my private collection and now I received his latest raw denim jacket. The jacket is inspired by the workers from the U.S.A. a model which is also adopted by a lot of Japanese people. As always Ben added a lot of great ‘hidden’ details in the jacket like the special buttons with all the Amsterdenim letters, longs cuffs, canvas printed inner yoke, and name embroidery on the back which become more visible after wearing. The jacket got a brilliant Dutch name called Johnny and is made in Italy. Check out his website which is launced lately. Ben, big thanks for this jacket which has an amazing fit! Keep building on your denim dreams. Till soon!
A year ago, the 1st production run of Benzak Denim Developers was launched by a crowd funding project with success. Lennaert Nijgh, founder of BDD, started a new Kick Starter project to support his second production run. He developed some new jean styles, BDD-006 – dark tone and BDD-016 – grey cast. Recently I saw the first samples of these new styles and it I can say that this will surprise you, believe me. Both styles are made with the highest standards and with all the specific BBD details. Go check his Kick Starter page and support this hard working guy! Holland meets Japan again.
Founder Lennaert Nijgh
BDD spare parts
Holland vs Japan
Worn-out BBD pair
New style BDD-006 – dark tone
New Style BDD-016 – grey cast
Check the Kick Starter page here;
Selvedge / Selvage / Self-edge
The authentic term that is used for the edge of the denim fabric that is usually decorated with a colored thread. It prevents the end of the denim from ravelling and gives the jeans a clean, properly finished look. The color varies, according to the brand and producer. Vintage Levi’s for example used to have an all-white strip (plain) and later had a single redline selvedge, Wrangler used a yellow or gold and Lee often a plain white or green type.
How do you wear your selvage jeans?
Check out this worn-out ‘Eat Dust’ denim jacket. Jacket is worn by Leon van Bloem, working at VIF Jeans store in Holland. Jacket is worn for almost 2 years without washing. Go for the next 2 years Leon!
- Owner: Leon van Bloem. Working at Vif Jeans Store in Rijssen, Holland (www.vifjeans.nl)
- Brand: Eat Dust jacket 673, 13.25oz double ring Japanese blue selvage
- Age: 1.5 – 2 years
- Treatment: No wash
Share you worn-out denim item by sending an email to:
After a short holiday break I am back on (train) track! Ready for a new year full of denim treasures and other great authentic products. Let’s go!
(denim train tracks)
Dutch denim store Baretta from The Hague (NL) are celebrating their 3rd anniversary this weekend. To celebrate this they made a special limited edition, 75 pairs only, collab jean together with denim brand Naked & Famous from Canada and Dutch artist Pieter Ceizer. The jean is made from 13,75oz Japanse lefthand selvage. Pieter designed a nice leather patch made from natural vegetable tanned leather wich will age nicely over time and he also did the graphics for the authentic pocket flasher. If you want to get your hands on one of these pairs, be quick! Big congrats guys with this great collab and ofcourse with this milestone! Bravo!
This Wrangler ‘Blue Bell’ kids jean is from my private collection. The jean is very worn-out by a kid as the knees are completely destroyed. As many kids jeans, also this one, has a zipper, made from non-selvage left hand fabric. Because the jean is washed some many times it feels really soft.
It was in 1947 that employees of ‘Blue Bell’ (the previous Wrangler brand name) voted on the name of a new line of jeanswear designed specifically for cowboys and rodeo riders. The name decided upon was Wrangler. In the year 1948 they replaced the arcuate stiching into the “W” stitch on the backpockets. What’s also nice to mention is that the first Wrangler pocket labels were made from pressed card and then in plastic for a simple reason, when a leather label and a leather saddle come into contact, they stick and Wranglers were designed for cowboys. It’s a pitty that Wrangler doesn’t make the ‘Blue Bell’ line anymore. This means that these items are hard to find, very rare.
This Evisu denim jacket with lot nr. 3641 is from my private collection and is about 10 years old. The jacket is inspired on the famous Levi’s Jeans Type 2 trucker jacket, original 507XX, introduced around 1953. Inside of the jacket there is a nice plain and red selvage. The sleeves has a nice worn pattern. But what makes this jacket really special are the embroidered pockets, with the Evisu seagull logo. Check it out.