Old Glory by Diesel Jeans Gold Miner Pants from 1992

From 1992 till 1994 Diesel Jeans from Italy created a special denim line inspired by the ‘Big 3′ (Levi’s, Lee & Wrangler) called Old Glory. Old Glory was the best line ever created by Diesel Jeans in my opinion. This special OG collection was really outstanding and totally different than other denim brands. It was one of the first denim premium lines. This line was launched before Levi’s Jeans came with their Levi’s Vintage Clothing – LVC line and before Lee Jeans dropped their 101 line. The Old Glory line was workwear inspired. Below the Gold Miner jeans from my personal denim archive. It features;

  • Classic 5-pocket fit
  • Cinch back
  • Hidden rivets
  • V-stitch
  • Orange selvage
  • Crotch rivet
  • Zipper closure
  • Original ’90′s washing

Next to the Old Glory line also the catalogs from Diesel Jeans from that time were outstanding and rare. They weren’t free and you had to buy them as they were made in low quantities. I added below some images from the Gold Miner pants taken from the original catalog dated from 1992.

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Old Glory advertising Goldigger jeans pictures from 1992

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www.diesel.com

Kiriko Japanese Patched Selvage Women Jeans

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Kiriko made an outstanding pair of jeans for women, a patched selvage jeans. For this unique pair Kiriko used various leftover fabrics of different materials and patched them to the denim. The details made this an one of a kind. The jeans is made of 13oz. selvage denim made in Fukuyama City, one of the biggest manufacturers out of Japan producing some of the highest quality. The fit is a boyfriend style, 5 pocket. The jeans is patched in the Kiriko studio in Portland, Oregon. The leather patch on the back is hand-embossed. All in all a really fine pair of jeans. Go girls!

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http://kirikomade.com

Pharrell Williams X G-Star Raw Elwood X25-Collection

Pharrell Williams is now ‘Head of Imagination’ at the Dutch denim brand G-Star Raw. Pharrell just launched his first collection: G-Star Raw Elwood X25-collection. G-Star Raw most famous jeans is the Elwood. This jeans, inspired by a biker pants and designed by Pierre Morisset, was born 20 years ago in 1996. It was one of the first 3D constructed pairs of jeans. Very revolutionary at that time. Pharrell came with the idea to give this iconic piece a twist. He created 25 different styles with colorfull prints: camouflage, checks, and prints from all over the world. The collection was released in L.A. but will be available this upcoming February through some selected retailers wordwide and through the G-Star Raw website.

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Pic by Hypebeast

 
www.g-star.com

Denham Jeans Presents: Razor Virgin Indigo Stretch Selvage – Made in Japan

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Denham Jeans launched this weekend a limited edition: Denham Razor VISS – Virgin Indigo Stretch Selvage – Made in Japan. After years they are back with a special edition made of the legendary Japanese Kaihara Mill. For this edition Denham Jeans used a classic 14oz weight redline selvage denim fabric. The fabric contains 2% elastane for more comfort, but the fabric feels true rigid. The jeans is a kind of a homage to Japan and features some amazing details: red buttons, red rivets, one piece selvage fly, selvage coin pocket, Japanese patch and a red siccor on the backpocket (691 stitches in every scissor). The Denham Jeans jeans is made in a limited of 650 pieces worldwide.

Thanks to Edwin van Zoeren for sending the pictures, he’s the lucky owner of number 587/650. Edwin is a true Denham fan, follow him on Instagram @edwin028.

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www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

Vintage Levi’s ‘Big E’ Jeans From The Late ’60′s

Today I want to share another original vintage pair of Levi’s 501XX – Big E - Jeans from my personal denim archive. It’s a Levi’s Jeans 501XX pair from the late ’60′s. It has a really cool crotch repair and many signs of hard wear. These kind of fadings on original Levi’s Jeans are for me personally the best. The jeans has so many character and is loaded with the original features as;

  • 501XX fit
  • Big E Red Tab – Made in the late ’60′s
  • Washed-out redline selvage
  • Number 16 on the back of the top button
  • Classic V-stitch at button fly
  • Single stitched backpockets
  • Twisted legs
  • Worn-off backlabel

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www.levis.com

Kings Of Indigo ‘Sumo Jeans’ Waist Size 82 Length 32

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Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) launched in 2012 their first collection. The brand dna is inspired by American classics with details from Japan. A perfect mix for a successful denim brand. Their key words are quality, innovative and sustainable. The name Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) came from founder Tony Tonnaer’s favorite tattoo, a koi fish on his right shoulder in remembrance of his mother. Koi fish are intelligent creatures and they tend to swim against the stream which is a strong metaphor for the rebellion that comes with the denim lifestyle. In Japan the Koi fish stands for luck, love and perseverance. Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) brand is now available through 250 carefully selected retailers in 12 countries and online, with a focus on Northern Europe.

Also the marketing is impressive and fits perfectly with their brand dna. They created one of the largest, if not the largest, selvage jeans as promotion with waist size 82 and length 32. The jeans called Sumo and refers to the Rodeo Clown Pants jeans from the ’40′s and ’50′s from brands as Lee Jeans and Wrangler. The Sumo jeans is made of high quality rigid redline selvage fabric and has all the details of the regular Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) jeans. On the back of the jeans they attached a true cool embroidery which makes this Sumo jeans very special.

I’m very happy to have this big Sumo jeans in my denim collection. This is the biggest selvage jeans in my collection so far. Meet Sumo here below.

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Here’s the Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) ‘Sumo’ jeans in action during an denim event at the Rambam store in Eindhoven – NL.

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www.kingsofindigo.com

The Concrete Presents Motorcycles Denim Jackets

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Fernando García de la Calera from Spain is the founder of The Concrete brand. Fernando started his brand in 2007. As a fanatic skateboarder he used to skateboard a lot and called their skate spot The Concrete, that explains the origin of his brand name. In the beginnig he created designs for skateboards and t-shirts, but soon changed to urban clothing based on elegance, comfort and durability. Fernando is running The Concrete brand from his tailor shop in Madrid – Spain. The core of the brand, and also the specialty of Fernando, is working with the denim fabric. Meet Fernando García de la Calera and his craftsmanship.

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 Fernando García de la Calera

One of my personal The Concrete favorites are the The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jackets. The jackets are made of high quality denim fabrics and perfect for your motorcycle trips.

The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket #1

  • Made of 13.5oz selvage fabric from the Italian Candiani mill.
  • The sleeves have silk lining inside that makes it light and perfect for Spring rides.
  • The jacket has a tough YKK zipper and denim detail cover to prevent scratches on the tank.
  • The buttons are made in artisan foundation, being a representation of the meticulous work of Transformaciones Valtoron brand.
  • The work of folds in the side of the inner jacket is reinforced with elastic fabric, so the jacket is slim but have mobility during driving.
  • Three exterior pockets with zipper, one inside and an adjustable cuff zipper.

The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket

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The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket #2

  • Made of 13.5oz selvage fabric from the Italian Candiani mill.
  • Inside made of quilted silk lining polyester foam which gives strength and make it warm enough for winter.
  • The jacket has a tough YKK zipper closure and a tape to cut the wind in your chest.
  • The buttons are made in artisan foundation, being a representation of the meticulous work of the Transformations Valtorón brand.
  • Two outside pockets and one inside.
  • Handmade wooden buttons.
  • Detachable collar Spanish Merino wool.
  • Adjustable sleeve closure.

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http://concretemadrid.com

Ian Berry Presents: Behind Closed Doors & My Beautiful Laundrette

Denim artist Ian Berry has a new solo exhibition called ‘Behind Closed Doors’ at Catto Gallery in London. Exactly there are two exhibitions in one expo space. The other part is called ‘My Beautiful Laundrette’.

Ian Berry works solely in denim, cutting and gluing to create highly detailed, photorealist pictures that have to be seen to be believed. You will have to see his great work in real live to believe that it’s totally made of old denim rags. He’s using the different shades of the rags as a palette to create his master works. It’s really insane!

The expo ‘Behind Closed Doors’ is about isolation and inner turmoil. He despite calm outward appearances, and is portrayed through solitary figures in familiar beautiful settings. A reference perhaps to show you can have possessions, yet not always be content in this material world. With ‘My Beautiful Launderette’ he shows spaces that were once at the heart of the community but are now frequently closing down.

Both projects looks really amazing as always! I’m a big fan of his work for some years and I’m always impressed how he create those true master pieces. Go check it out when you’re in London. Big bravo Ian!

Catto Gallery
16 – 30 November 2016
14 Percy Street | London | W1T 1DR

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Behind Closed Doors
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My Beautiful Launderette 
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Detail shots
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Ian Berry at work
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Nobrandedon Presents: THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz

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Nobrandedon is a denim brand started in 2011 by Aryan Pandam Raafi from Indonesia. With their Nobrandedon denim brand they create very special and unique jeans. Last May they launched the 1st edition of the special THW501XX Handwoven 19oz Heavyweight Jeans. You can read more about this THW501XX jeans here.

As this THW501XX jeans was sold-out immediately they decided to develop a 2nd edition: THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz. Also the 2nd edition is a very outstanding pair of jeans (it takes 36 hours to produce 1 pair of these!) which contains very special features as;

  • Super Deep Rich colors with ‘Rain Fall Thunder Indigo’
  • Double Red Line and White Dotted Selvedge
  • 100% Cotton, 100% Selvedge, 100% Hand Loomed
  • 100% Hand Process, 100% Artisanal Jeans
  • Natural-Hand-Dyed Indigo Tinctoria Hand-Sewn Sashiko Patch
  • 36 Hours to produce 1 Jeans
  • Slim Straight Silhoutte
  • Sanforized-Shrunk
  • Poly Cotton Heavy Thread (super strong thread)
  • Shell Stitch Sword Fly
  • Double Selvedge Peek a Boo Coin Pocket
  • YKK Japanese 100% Copper Gold Double Prong Button Fly
  • YKK Japanese 100% Copper Washer-Burr Rivets
  • Hidden Rivets
  • Continuous N Stitching on Waist Band
  • Raised Belt Loop
  • Raised Open Backpocket
  • Fully Reinforced Backpocket
  • Blue Striped Soft-Skin-Feel Polycotton Pocket Lining
  • Triangle Stitch Overlap Details on Left Side Backpocket
  • Single Felled Inseam
  • Hemmed by UNION Special 43200G

Well done guys, you did it again! Check below some details of this THW501XX The Handwoven Heavyweight II Overdyed 20oz Jeans.

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Check more on the Nobrandedon Instagram page here.

Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) Fall Winter 2016 Collection

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One of my personal denim highlights every season is the Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) collection. Levi’s is creating every season a high quality made collection with inspiration from their rich heritage. They create a tribute story. For the Fall Winter 2016 collection they picked the theme: 9TH ST. The 9th Street Exhibition in New York, 1951, was the first time artists showed collectively, and along with poets and writers of the time, became known as the New York School. In the mid ’40s, just after WWII, there was a revolution within the American art world. It became known as Abstract Expressionism. They were a new breed of artists, heavilty influenced by surrealist painters who had fled Europe during the war. The items from the new LVC collection shows a different colour palette in tees, tops and finishes on the jeans.

As always the LVC lookbooks are made from the same high standard as the collection itself. The lookbook starts with some re-production pieces from the large (more than 20.000 rare pieces) Levi’s denim archive. The next chapter is about the main LVC collection with the 9TH ST. theme. In the middle of the lookbook they show how to wash, wear and care your favorite pair of jeans. The last chapter shows a kind of streetpeople wearing LVC on a very cool way. The pics are shot in black/white which is a perfect choice.

All in all, the LVC line is as always very exciting and special. Check below some shots taken from the new Levi’s Vintage Clothing lookbook No. 10.

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www.levis.com

Denim City X Amsterdam Dance Event Jeans

Last week their was a new edition of the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE). The Amsterdam Dance Event is the leading electronic music platform and the biggest club festival in the world with a whole spectrum of electronic sub-genres. The ADE festival features 450 events and 2.200 artists over five days in 140 clubs and venues. For this special dance festival Denim City teamed-up with ADE to celebrate the 2016 edition. They created a special limited edition jeans. Denim City cooperated with the Italian denim mill Candiani to develop a special black fabric with black/yellow selvage. The black/yellow colours refers to the ADE festival colours. This special jeans is totally made in Denim City, all by hand by true craftsman, in 300 pieces. They are available in the recently opened Denim City Store which is located at the centre of Denim City.  

Denim City
Hannie Dankbaarpassage 22
1053 RT Amsterdam
The Netherlands

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http://denimcity.org

Worn-Out Projects X Acne Jeans

Received some great pictures of this worn-out Acne Jeans from Kees Kreuter. This jeans is his favorite for more than 12 years already. It’s repaired a lot of times and has a nice worn look. Thanks Kees for sharing!

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  • Owner: Kees Kreuter from Rotterdam – NL
  • Brand: Acne Jeans
  • Age: 12 years
  • Fit: unkown

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www.acnestudios.com

Share your Worn-Out Project by sending an email: wouter@long-john.nl

Opening Jeans Intelligence Studio by Jack & Jones

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After over 20 successful years with retail, Danish menswear brand, JACK & JONES, takes it’s retail to the next level with a new store concept; the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO. The JACK & JONES brand was built on a passion for denim and jeans and is still the core business of the company. To celebrate the roots, the JEANS INTELLIGENCE brand is ready to launch it’s own new store concept. The first store with this outstanding concept will open on October the 13th in Salzburg, Austria.

Jeans Intelligence is the backbone of the JACK & JONES brand. The products are designed with respect for denim traditions and made with the leaders of the industry. The best denim makers. And with success as the brand is the biggest denim men’s wear brand in Europe as it comes to quantities.

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With the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO they want to give the customers a full denim experience. The store has a wide selection of jeans. There’s a denim bar and a wall which is loaded with 18 different jeans styles. Behind the denim bar is the ‘denim dealer’ which is a dedicated jeans expert. With his expertise and production video’s you can get an insight into the denim product and production.

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To celebrate the opening of this first new retail concept there’s a VIP night on Wednesday the 12th of October. Around 70 special guests are invited to celebrate the opening of this new milestone for JACK & JONES.

During the whole opening week, from 10 till 15 October, there will be a Jeans Intelligence pop-up stand downstairs in the Europark shopping centre. This is an area full of craftmanship, denim, customization and education. Customers can customize their denim pieces with a laser machine, and they can also add badges to their garments.

But there’s more! For this special opening celebration, the first 30 customers on Friday and Saturday, that buy for at least € 150,- get the chance to have their JEANS INTELLIGENCE jeans customised by one of the world’s best denim artists. While the guests wear the jeans, the denim artist will create a customized look. After the treatment on site, the jeans will be sent to Italy for the final washing before they’re returned to the store. This is a once in a lifetime chance to get a pair of jeans individualised.

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So there’s a lot happening in the new JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO this week. If you’re in the neighbordhood, check it out and get the denim experience by yourself. 

Check more info on the Facbebook eventpage: www.facebook.com/events/511927205677165/?active_tab=posts

And the Instagram account: @jeansintelligence_salzburg (#jeansintelligence_salzburg)

Adress: JACK & JONES: JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIOEuropark – Europastrasse 1, 5020 Salzburg – Austria 

www.jackjones.com

Nudie Jeans 15 Anniversary Presents: Indigo Bloodline

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Nudie Jeans celebrates this year their 15 anniversary. For this special celebration they launched today their ‘Indigo Bloodline’. The ‘Indigo Bloodline’ contains three new sustainable Japanese selvage options made with organic cotton and fibers from
bamboo, hemp or paper. The special limited edition items are all numbered and packed in a special box. Nudie Jeans developed these special boxes also in the past with their classic ‘Regular Ralf’ model, also made from Japanese selvage fabric.

The Nudie Jeans ‘Indigo Bloodline’ is available through some selected retailers worldwide and the Nudie Jeans webshop. Check it out as these items are specials, limited, and out of stock before you know. Congrats Nudie Jeans with rockin’ for 15 years already in the denim industry with your outstanding brand!

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www.nudiejeans.com

Worn-Out Projects X Eat Dust Jeans Fit 73

Yesterday I received some pics from a really hard worn-out pair from Wouter Thomassen. He’s wearing the jeans for 4 years now and the result is amazing! With the many repairs and different shades of blue this is a true blue beauty! Nice one Wouter!

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  • Owner: Wouter Thomassen from Nijverdal, Holland
  • Brand: Eat Dust, fit 73, 13.25oz double ring japanese indigo blue selvage denim
  • Age: 4 years
  • Treatment: 2 x rinse, 1 x rinse in sea and 1 x machine wash

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http://eatdustclothing.com

How to Line Your Cuff by Levi’s Jeans

The video How to Line Your Cuff by Levi’s Jeans shows how to make your pair of jeans more special. Customizing is a very hot topic the last years. People want to wear special items, items with an unique look. And the best is when a pair of jeans is customized by the wearer itself. Check in the video how to make your pair of jeans in a simple way outstanding from the rest. #DIY it is!

www.levis.com

Original Vintage Levi’s Big E Toddler Jeans from the Early ’60′s

This vintage Levi’s Toddler Jeans is my smallest original ‘Big E’ jeans from my private denim collection. The jeans is dated from the early ’60′s. This pair of jeans is a rare pair as it is a transitional pair from the 503ZXX to the 3020117 model. This would be the 1st year of the production of the 302 model. The waist size of this jeans is W18 and the length is L13. It’s a small Toddler jeans. This pair of jeans feature all the classic and famous details as ‘Big E’ Red Tab, yellow and tobacco stitching, v-stitch at top button, washed-out redline selvage and single stiched backpockets to mention a few. But check all the great details of this Made in the U.S.A. pair of jeans here below.

Original vintage Levi’s ‘Big E’ Toddler Jeans

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Twisted leg

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Washed-out redline selvage

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Inseam leg stitch: lemon meets tobacco

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Lemon stitch arcuate

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Big E Red Tab

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Single stitched back pocket

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Snap button

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V-stitch front with tobacco thread

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V-stitch back with lemon thread

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Button stamped with letter J

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Zipper Talon 24 fly

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Lemon and tobacco stitched belt loops

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Washed-out back label

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www.levis.com

Blue de Gênes Autumn – Winter 2016 Lookbook

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The Blue de Gênes Autumn/Winter 2016 collection shows a strong range of jeans and classical pants with a contemporary touch. Old naval trousers are being transformed into new cool trousers made in original Italian selvedge gabardine. The tailored details of fine old trousers are used as inspiration for exciting features on new trousers. The collection also holds track of historical moments and persons of the proud days ancient Genova. The Autumn/Winter 2016 collection is also strong on classic jackets and waistcoats.

Blue de Gênes introduced some new styles, all made in fine Italian fabrics with real horn or corozo nut buttons. New shirts are also introduced. There is a line of real indigo shirts developed for Blue de Gênes. Also knitted items are included which are made on old looms in Japan. As always there are jeans in the collection with heavy washed dark finishes for the cool winter look. All their jeans are made in Italy. To make the Blue de Gênes collection complete they added some high quality leather jackets and bombers in the collection too.

The new Blue de Gênes collection and lookbook gets you in the right Autumn – Winter mood!

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Explore the Blue de Gênes collection here:

www.blue-de-genes.com

Old Glory ‘Murphy’ Jeans by Diesel Jeans from the early ’90′s

For the ones who’s following me for a while knows that I started my denim career more than 20 years ago at Diesel Jeans. In that time, beginning of the ’90′s till ’94, Diesel launched a special denim collection called Old Glory. Inspirered by the legendary Big 3 (Levi’s, Lee & Wrangler) this was something really cool and outstanding. This is the reason how my passion for denim started, ofcourse after wearing the classic 501′s in my previous years. Diesel came up with selvage fabrics and amazing embroidered jackets. Unfortunately the Old Glory line wasn’t a big commercial success, but the items are still great. My Old Glory collection is pretty big, and is still growing. Not so long ago  I could add this original OG jeans in my collection, model Murphy. The jeans is a kind of a homage to Wrangler, their 11MWZ model. It has all the same features: broken twill fabric, button in combination with Talon zipper fly, 7 belt loops, flat rivets (won’t scratch your saddle), same coin-watch pocket shape and non-selvage folded side seams. Even the arcuate stitching on the backpockets are inspired by Wrangler. The jeans is made in Italy. An unique piece of the best days of Diesel Jeans.

Check also the Old Glory ‘Labor’ jeans – homage to Lee Jeans: www.long-john.nl/diesel-old-glory-labour-jeans-from-1994

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www.diesel.com

Contact me if you have some Old Glory items for Sale: wouter@long-john.nl

Lee 101 Jeans Rider Slim Fit

Lee Jeans launched a special edition for Fall Winter from their iconic Lee 101 Jeans. They create a slim fit version of their classic Rider fit. The Lee 101 Rider Slim Fit has more tapered legs than the regular version. The jeans is made of Japanese 13.75oz left hand blue line rigid selvage, Lot No. 49. The threads of this fabric is dipped 13 times in indigo to get the right blue colour. The old shuttle loom which was used for the creating of this fabric makes 100 meter of high quality fabric in 24 hours. The back of the jeans has a yellow ‘Lee Riders’ emboidery like the old Rodeo Clown pants. Nice one!

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www.lee.nl