Two weeks ago I spoke with Bahzad Trinos and Risa Saito from Naked & Famous from Canada. The people from Naked & Famous are true denim doctors as they always create something really unique, something very special. Also this time they showed me some treasures at the Seek trade show in Berlin. Their collection contains to many specials to show them all, so I highlight 3 of them. It was good to see you again, good luck with the sales and speak soon!
Bahzad Trinos & Risa Saito
Naked & Famous: Green tea denim
For this jeans they dipped the threads in green Japanese tea which gave a very nice green look. The jeans is made with green selvage and a green suede patch.
Naked & Famous: Blue white red jeans
For this jeans they twisted the weft with blue, white and red threads to create a nice blend of colours. A lot of country flags contains these colours, so almost everyone would feel a connection with this one. Also the selvage is made of these three colours.
Naked & Famous: X-Mas jeans
Although it’s Summer right now, here’s some X-Mas jeans. The jeans has selvage with the X-Mas colours, green and red. The patch of the jeans is made of natural vegetable tanned leather with an awesome design. Perfect X-Mas gift.
The Dutch G-Star brand was started in 1989 under the name Gapstar as a new denim initiative. A few years after their kick-off, when they were going global, they changed their name from Gapstar into G-star because of the American Gap brand. G-Star is now a very big, well known and respective denim brand worldwide. In my private denim collection their are some key items, sort of vintage in the meantime, from their more than 25 years of G-star history. Today I want to highlight 3 pieces which are a kind of cult nowadays and for me personally one the best ever made by the Gapstar / G-Star company.
The 3 Gapstar / G-star items;
Gapstar US Second jeans. Selvage jeans made of left hand fabric. Dated from +/- 1994-1995. Classic 5 pocket jeans. Sold as pre-washed jeans.
G-star US Lumber jeans. Selvage jeans made of right hand fabric. Dated from 1997-1998. Classic 5 pocket jeans with a cinch back. Sold as pre-washed jeans. They also had these as a rigid (unwashed) version.
G-star US First jacket. Selvage jacket made of right hand fabric. Dated from 1997-1998. Classic trucker denim jacket. Sold as a rigid (unwashed) jacket. The jacket is still unwashed.
Last week Eat Dust showed their Spring Summer ’17 collection for the first time at the Seek Show in Berlin. The theme of their brand new collection is: ‘The Lonely Hearts Club‘. Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco, both founders of Eat Dust, are true masters as it comes to make a collection with a mix of denim, workwear, streetwear and biker influences. Its always a big pleasure to catch up with these buddies, hearing the story behind every high-quality made piece. They added some killer pieces next to their core heavy weight denim fabric items, from very light comfomfortable denim pieces to an iconic suede item. The best is to check their collection live ofcourse at the upcoming Jacket Required show in London or visit their showroom in Antwerp – Belgium. I made some shots of several key pieces, check them here below (pics quality isn’t that good, sorry for that). Great to see you again guys and congrats with your new collection! Your hard work pays off every season, keep it up! Eat Dust: ‘One for the Road’.
Yesterday I hooked-up with Wim Ravestein which is a true denimhead from Boskoop, a small village in Holland. Wim is very dedicated to jeans, has some nice worn-out projects and knows where he’s talking about. Next to that he has a extremely cool rooftop project going on. On his rooftop he has a very experimental denim project for already more than 5 years. Some of his rigid jeans are catching some sun, rain and snow 24/7 and 365 days a year, non-stop. All to check out the development of the unwashed denim fabrics. One of his projects was even the base of a birdhouse this Spring! For his rooftop project he’s using some old Blue Blood and new G-Star jeans.
Wim was also one of the few who had an original G-Star US Lumber from 1997 in his denim collection, which he donated to me for my private denim collection. I’m very happy with this jeans as this item was missing in my collection and a perfect addition next to my Gapstar US Second and G-Star US First jacket. Both denim classics nowadays. I gave him a classic jeans as a thank you, Edwin Nashville, for his rooftop project. I’m really looking forward how this jeans will age with a natural treatment of some years.
Thanks again Wim for sharing our same passion and your great worn-out G-Star US Lumber. Will post more about this later. Keep up the good work with your amazing rooftop project! To be continued…
Kiriko made a collaboration with Portland’s Red Clouds Collective. With their collab they created a backpack made with heavy canvas, iconic Japanese Sashiko, and vegetable-tanned leather. Perfect backpack for your Summer trips!
The specs of this Kiriko X Red Clouds Collective are;
Dutch lifestyle denim brand Chasin’ launched last week during the Pitti Uomo tradeshow their latest collaboration: Royal Attitude. With this collab Chasin’ recycled uniforms from the Royal Netherlands Navy. The project was conceived together with James Veenhoff, founder of House of Denim Amsterdam.
Royal Attitude will be a seasonal part of the Chasin’ collection as of now. Through recycling of naval pieces Chasin’ created 2 stand out jeans, both in a 11,5oz quality. 1 is the iconic Ego jeans, which is the brand’s representation of the classic 5 pocket, with added stretch. A more contemporary fit is the cropped chino fit. For these jeans unique washes were created, inspired by the ocean. Next to the denims, the collection contains a denim jacket and several tops. Collection in stores from January 2017.
Congrats guys with the launch of this great and creative idea. Jeans and Navy are a perfect match!
Lumina is a classic American clothing brand with items that gets better with wear. Their collection is inspired by the culture, landscape and climate of North Carolina. They have two different pairs of rigid jeans in their collection;
Taper Trenton Jean: 12oz White Oak Cone Mills denim
Athletic Taper Jackson Jean: 13oz White Oak Cone Mills selvage denim
Check the American craftsmanship here below and watch also the introduction video about their brand.
Taper Trenton Jean: 12oz White Oak Cone Mills
Athletic Taper Jackson Jean: 13oz White Oak Cone Mills selvage denim
Original vintage Levi’s Jeans501 patched jeans from my private denim collection. This Levi’s Jeans is from the ’60′s. The previous owner cut-off the jeans as a short and patched it with some cool old school American patches. The jeans has some typical legendary vintage Levi’sJeans details as:
Big E Red Tab
Washed-out redline selvage
Number 6 on the back of the top button (this refers to the ’60′s production)
Denim is one of the world’s favorite fabrics, and also one of the largest segment of the clothing industry. To celebrate the iconic blue clothing item Emma McClendon, assistant curator at The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York, organised a great expo which was displayed untill the 7th of May. The expo was called: “Denim: Fashion Frontier“. Emma publised also a book with all the highlights from this expo.
Cover book: Denim: Fashion Frontier
The most interesting item from this ”Denim: Fashion Frontier” expo was a pants dated from the 1840′s. This is a true treasure and pre-miners jeans. It’s the oldest pair from the FIT museum archive. This pants is extremely cool and loaded with great details;
Fall front instead of a center fly.
Fall front is attached with 3 bone buttons (Metal buttons were introduced later and most of the time on workwear clothes).
The bone buttons absorbed the indigo, see center of the buttons, as the pants was dyed in indigo afterwards.
The pants is dyed in indigo after they were made, instead of dyeing the threads first before weaving.
The entire pants is hand stitched including the repairs.
The waistband is reinforced with denim fabric.
Triangle in the waist to help the wearer tighten the waist.
The shots here below are stills from the video, attached at the end, which they made to highlight all the magnificent details from this 1840′s blue indigo pants.
Denim pants from 1840
Emma McClendon, assistant curator, and Nicole Bloomfield, conservation technologist, both working at The Museum at FIT, explain all the details about this 1840’s pants in the video here below;
This vintage Levi’s Jeans Trucker ‘Big E’ cut-off vest, dated late ’60′s, is from my personal archive. I have a true weakness for old customized denim jackets. Especially if they are original Levi’s. This model, the 70506 also known as the Type 3, is the most famous jacket of the denim jackets, also the most copied model by many other brands. This model was introduced by Levi’s Jeans in 1962 as the follow-up from the 507XX (Type 2 Jacket). The key details from this jacket are: Big E Red Tab, single stitched closure, button stamp is #521 (Levi’s used the single digit stamps first, later they changed it into three digits like 521, 524, 525, 526, etc.), tobacco stitching and cut-off sleeves (which refers to bikers). The previous owner was a Suzuki racer fan as he patched a lot of biker related patches and pins on his denim vest. Check it out!
The Butcher of Blue (BoB) brand – founded by Bob Rijnders from BOB Hoogland Store – NL, expanded the collection for Spring Summer ’16. For SS there are several new t-shirt prints and colours added to the BoB collection, all made in Portugal. There are also some new jeans in the collection. Bob started his brand with an unwashed (dry) jeans so the new light washed jeans and rock ‘n roll black jeans are both a perfect complement in the collection. The jeans are made of selvage fabrics from the Italian Candiani Mill. And to make it all complete, and really nice!, is that he also made his own Butcher of Blue coffee and indigo coffee cups. Well done Bob, great to see that your collection is growing every season. Check below some highlights of the collection.
Last year Levi’s Jeans and Google announced their latest innovative collaboration. Their project is called Project Jacquard. With this project they created a new smart technology woven into the denim fabric. With this fabric you can control your phone. Project Jacquard will allow designers and developers to build connected, touch-sensitive textiles into their own products. For this first kick-off project they used the classic Levi’s Jeans Trucker Jacket and gave it a twist that’s really cool and outstanding. In the two short movies here below you can see the introduction and the making of the project Jacquard. Great things are going to happen in the future of denim!
Last week Lennaert Nijgh, founder of Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) launched his new Kickstarter project with his Benzak – European Made – collection. After 4 years of producing jeans in Japan, Benzak Denim Developers is expanding the brand with a new line. With this new Europe made line Lennaert created a high-quality jeans and other garments that complement the same lifestyle as Benzak Denim Developers, but at a lower price point.
The entirely new Benzak collection is made in Europe. The fabrics for the jeans are from the Candiani mills in Italy, which is known as one of the best denim mills in Europe. The entire line, jeans, jersey and sweat fabrics, are produced in small ateliers in Portugal. The Kickstarter project is already very successful as Lennaert received nearly 50% of his Kickstarter goal in just a couple of days. Check his new Benzak – Europa Made – collection here below and give him some support. Congrats Lennaert with this new collection and good luck with your goal!
Lebl Denim Atelier is an Amsterdam based denim studio founded by Leon Blok. Leon is making tailored made and personalised denim garments. If you can’t find your favo denim style, he’s your man! For his creations he is only using the best suppliers from America and Japan that have a long history in manufacturing high-quality denim fabrics.
How does it work to get your favo Lebl pair of jeans or jacket? Here are the steps to your ultimate piece of denim:
Step 1) We sit down and have a chat about your style, your personality, what you do. We also discuss any ideas you might have about your new favorite jeans.
Step 2) We take your body measurements and go into the subjects of fit, choice of fabric and stitch detailing. Lebl serves as your sounding board and will give advice, but you are the one making decisions.
Step 3) Then we part ways and Lebl draws up a pattern and design, and carefully construct your sample.
Step 4) We meet again for a sample fit. This is where you test and try the functional design before it’ll be made out of your selected fabric. We make the necessary alterations to the pattern, rejig pockets, fine-tune all details and adjust things where needed. Next time you see your garment, it’ll be for real.
Step 5) The day has come to try on the final product. When you slip into it for the first time, the raw fabric might feel weird to you. But trust us: after a week or two you might not want to take it off again and it feels like a natural match. Not love at first wear? We’ll adjust it for as long as it takes to feel perfect to you.
Below some examples of high quality, special handmade Lebl Denim garments.
In the denim industry you see a lot of very special jeans nowadays, different weights of fabric, methods of making, production wise, special selvage colours, etc. But sometimes you see a really special one, like this jeans from Nobrandedon. Nobrandedon is a denim brand founded in 2011 by Aryan Pandam Raafi from Indonesia. Aryan created this special and limited edition Nobrandedon THW501XX Jeans.
The jeans is completely made by hand. The total time to produce one pair of jeans is 36 hours. The jeans is made from heavy weight 18/19oz selvage broken twill fabric. The fabric has a double redline selvage which referes to the Indonesia flag. The threads of the jeans are handspun, coloured by hand with natural indigo and the fabric is woven by hand by Lumintu. The slubby fabric shows some amazing different colours of blue shades. Lumintu is specialized in handwoven selvage fabrics. Their fabrics are an one of a kind. Their handwoven fabrics need 4 times of energy and time to weave strong and stiff fabrics. They can create only 1.5 meter each day. The fit of the jeans is inspired by the Levi’s 501 fit from 1947. The backpockets are strenght with hidden rivets. The patch is made with several different denim fabrics, colour and weight, and stitched with the Japanese sashiko method.
This pair of Nobrandedon is a true musthave for every denimhead. Unfortunately this pair is already sold out, but they planned to do a new handwoven jeans this upcoming Fall Winter ’16. I’m really happy to have this one in my private collection! Looking forward to see their new edition. Check this very special Nobrandedon jeans here below. Thanks Aryan for this pair and keep up the good work! Keep in touch!
Every jeans is packed in a heavy weight cotton totebag
The Nobrandedon Handmade THW501XX Selvage Jeans
Authentic pocketflasher with all the special details
Last weekend Kings & Queens Store in Antwerp – Belgium celebrated their 7th anniversary. Kings & Queens is a true denim store stocking the best brands available like Eat Dust, Pike Brothers, Armor Lux, Schott, Butts and Shoulders, Grenson, Brixton, Stance, KOI, etc. In the back of the store they have a Red Wing shop-in-shop corner. Congrats Hans Bollen and crew with this milestone! Wish you all the best for the next 7 lucky years!
Edwin Jeans Malaysia just announced their new Limited Edition Edwin Rainbow Selvage jeans. The jean is made of a special rainbow selvage 13.25oz fabric. The jean will be made in run of 750 pieces and every jeans is individually numbered. The backpockets are the best part of this special edition as they are stitched with the colours of the rainbow. This idea of the backpockets looks the same as the special edition from Nudie Jeans and Oi Polloi from last year, check: www.long-john.nl/nudie-jeans-x-oil-polloi-rainbow-grim-tim-jean/. Looking forward to see this one in real live, but don’t know if it will released in Europe.
My friends from the denim platform Heddels just released their latest video: ‘Inside the Vault – The Methodology of Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC)’. For their new video they went to the holy grail, the Levi’s Jeans HQ in San Francisco. The Levi’s archives in San Francisco contains thousands of items from the brand’s nearly 150 year history including jeans and apparel, marketing materials, textile samples, packaging, promotional items, and much more. The current LVC Spring Summer ’16 line takes inspiration from the Levi’s company baseball team, “Elesco”. Elesco games date back to 1886, and Senior Designer Paul O’Neill based this collection upon a single photo of the company team from 1913. In the video you can see Paul and Levi’s Jeans archivist Anastasia Fink talking about the Elesco collection and their extremely old vintage miner pants from their archive. Thanks guys for giving us an insight into the Levi’s vault. Great video! Enjoy.
Companion Denim is a denim brand from Barcelona – Spain. The brand is using the finest selvedge denim coming from an accurate selection of qualities from the best mills, mostly from Japan, USA and Italy. The jeans are artisanally crafted with a selection of the best sewing machines for making denim. Using a mix of both modern and classic vintage machines which made the jeans of the old. Some of those machines are even 100 years old and make a beautiful and highly durable stitching. Next to their limited made jeans they also offers custom jeans, so you can make your favo pair of jeans. Below some inspiration shots of their custom jeans.