British Army denim overall or battledress trousers from the 1950′s. All deadstock, green denim with white selvedge seams.
Facing West is an initiative by Lizzie Kroeze which is started in October 2013 in Amsterdam. As Lizzie is inspired by workwear and traditional techniques how they were made and maintain she came up with the idea to start her own company. With Facing West she makes the most amazing one of a kind indigo items. Most of the time she use the famous Japanese sashiko stiching technique to create, repair or to decorate items. As the sashiko method is always done by hand it’s very time-consuming, but the result is really beautiful! She got her inspiration from garments worn in various cultures, from American miners gear to Japanese farmers’ and fishermen’s wear. Below an impressions of her authentic work.
Below an update from my current Eat Dust fit 73 jean which I am wearing for 1,5 year now. Seven days a week 24/7. Ofcourse the jean isn’t washed yet. As I also do not dry my hands on the jean the fadings are pure natural. The best part are the honeycombs on the back. Let’s see what’s happen in the upcoming 6 months. Keep you updated.
Recently I bought this Levi’s Vintage Clothing 501 Big E, 1947 model, re-production. This jean is really heavy worn by it’s pre-owner, the jean was bought as a raw denim and is totally destroyed within the years. The jean is one of the last productions from the famous Valencia Street factory in San Francisco, U.S.A. Levi’s decided to close this factory in the year 2002. This jean is made around 2000 as the button indicates the number 555. The pre-owner used this jean the last years as a worker and painting pant.
This particular 1947 model is still one of the most iconic 501 models in history. It features some really modern features: red tab, five pockets and belt loops: the suspender buttons, cinch, and crotch rivet have gone forever. The jeans still have a leather 2-horse patch, and the red tab is single-sided, and it has the word LEVI’S printed on one side only in capital which means that this is a Big E. This 1947 – 501 model was slimmer than pre-war models.
Check this really heavy worn-out Levi’s Jean here below. A true beauty and a great addition in my private collection.
Yesterday I received an email about the two previous Pepe ‘Miner’ Jeans posts. This time from Trevor Lough, Trevor was 12 years the art director at Pepe Jeans. He still also owns the jacket after all these years. It’s now 16 years old and never washed yet! Through all the years of hard wearing the jacket got some characteristic damages; the neck label is destroyed, a massive cigarette burned in the cuff and it also has a small flick-knife slash in one of the front plackets.
All in all it’s so great that a lot of people are digging in their private denim collection to show their classic Pepe Miner Jeans item with pride! Thanks a lot for sharing Trevor, Cheers! Who’s next?
Received a lot of positive reactions on the Pepe Miner Jeans yesterday. Also denimhead Johan Honig from Holland contacted me about this post. He has also a Miner jean in his private collection from that area, a little bit different than the post, and the original jacket. Johan was lucky to get a signature in his pizza box packaging from the designer from this Miner jean, Jason Denham. Jason started after his Pepe Jeans experience his own denim adventure with Blue Blood (togehter with Steve te Pas) and is the founder of the now famous Denham brand. The Pepe Miner pizza box was designed by Boy Bastiaens, a real craftsman from the South of Holland! He’s truly my favourite branding specialist! What a great combination!
Pepe Jeans was a start-up for a lot of now really successful people, the dream team consisted people like Rob Dunk (co-founder G-star and now Manic Monkeys), Karl Heinz Muller (Bread & Butter fair and 14oz Stores), Steve Te Pas (Good Genes), Jason Denham (Denham), James Veenhoff (Jean School), Tony Tonnear (K.O.I. Jeans), Martijn te Riele (Apxpress), Tim Brown, Trevor Lough & Shari Lee Gumbs.
Below some impressions of the Pepe Miner Jean and jacket from my denim friend Johan Honig. Thanks for sending these pics buddy!
Today I can show you another denim treasure from Martijn te Riele, a Pepe Jeans Denim Deluxe Miner from 1998. The UK, London based, denim brand from 1973 made with this jean a real statement at the time. The miner jean was packed in a pizza box and the jean itself featured all the classic details; crotch rivet, 24 dip dye Japanese red selvage fabric, hidden rivets, waistband cinch, selvage coin/watch pocket and a high rise fit. Thanks Martijn for sharing this deadstock Pepe Jeans. Enjoy Part 3 of Martijn’s treasures.
This vintage Lee Jeans ‘Union Made’ Dungarees is a treasure from Martijn te Riele from Holland. Last year I already showed some highlights of his private collection. (Check it here: www.long-john.nl/top-5-vintage-denim-items-by-martijn-te-riele-from-utrecht-nl) This classic Lee item is made from 11.5oz jelt denim fabric. It contains a hidden selvage in the out seams and chest pocket. The donut buttons with the laurel leaves refers to a period early ’40′s. All suppliers had to use spare parts that were on stock instead of personalized buttons, because during World War 2 some of the raw materials were very rare. The dungaree had a really nice worn-out fade and is a true master piece. Received some more beautiful pictures from his private collection which I will share later! Thanks Martijn, hope to see you soon!
The early 1970′s were all about decorating your favorite jeans and denim jackets, to make these pieces truly yours and a reflection of your personality and your art. In 1973, Levi’s Jeans decided to have fun with this concept and launched the “Levi’s Denim Art Contest.” Consumers were invited to send slides of their patched, customized, embroidered and otherwise embellished Levi’s jeans and jackets.
Publisher Squarebooks published a small book in 1974 with all the winners. The jeans, jackets, and shirts went on display at museums all over the United States. For years I own a copy of this nice hard to find book, below some images of the winners.
Received some nice pics from this great worn-out Eat Dust jean from my buddy Wouter Reimert who’s working at Vif Jeans store (www.vifjeans.nl) in Rijssen, NL. The jean is from a store customer which gave the jean a hard treatment for 15 months. Let the pics speak for themself. Looking forward how the jean looks after 24 months!
- Owner: Tim Segers from Holland
- Brand: Eat Dust, fit 73. 13,25oz double ring Japanese indigo blue selvage denim
- Age: 15 months
- Treatment: One wash
Send your worn-out denim project to: firstname.lastname@example.org
My Dutch buddies Remco van der Velden and Etienne Dekkers from the iconic label ‘Ontour’ just dropped their first jean. It’s a slim fit model made from 14oz red line selvage denim fabric. As always they also branded the jean on their typical Ontour way, this time with a small round leather patch on the back. Congratulations guys with this new step and welcome in the blue world!
My latest vintage catch is this Levi’s Jeans ‘Big E’ type 3 trucker jacket from 1968 – 1969. What I personally like about this jacket is that it has a kind of virgin look, bright and clean! As I have several vintage denim ‘Big E’ jackets this one immediatly catch my eyes with his authentic canvas look. The jacket has the number 524 buttons which correspondence with the year 1968 -1969. The pre-owner told me that he purchased the jacket in The Hague (NL) during his youth. Probably this was his favourite jacket which he had for a very long time. He added his name inside at the back of the famous flap pocket. Now it was time to clean up his closet and wanted to give the jacket a new life by a new owner. Glad that I had the opportunity to add this beauty in my private collection.
Sometimes you bump into something really special, something unique and different. Last week I discovered the new label Dumluck. Dumluck has a great philosophy: ”While mass production is taking over the world, we prefer to make smaller quantities for a smaller group of denim enthusiasts”. How do they do this? They buy old deadstock denim fabrics from the best mills worldwide and make special jeans and jackets on order. You will give your size and they will make by hand the jean with the fabric they got their hands on.
This week I received a great present from the Dumluck crew, a jacket called Mr. Jaquette. It’s a handmade slightly slim fit denim jacket finished with silver bras metal rivets and buttons, made out of a nice 14oz left hand Japanese plain selvage denim from Kaihara Mills. The jacket has also two chest flap pockets. All the Dumluck products are made in a little atelier in Amsterdam on vintage machines. Give them a few days to make, pack and ship your order.
All in all a perfect product for a really good price, good fit and amazing deadstock fabric! They really make denim garments for the true blue believers! Many thanks for this super nice jacket, it’s ready for breaking them in! Check it for yourself.
The making of my Mr. Jaquette jacket
The book ‘Toys for Boys’ is the ultimate book for men who still likes to play! Published by the Swan Group, the 8th edition speaks about luxury products and wisely chose to feature the Italian brand Roy Roger’s in the selection.
The Florence based brand, part of Sevenbell Group, brings a casual total look men this Spring. From shirts, shoes, accessories to jeans, it all has an authentic feel and are classics full of stylish details.
After all these years, the brand is still going strong and are planning international openings of new flagship stores. In addition to the four Italian ones, Moscow, Saint Petersburg, Shanghai and Hong Kong are on the list to get to know the famous back-pocket triangle of Roy Roger’s.
Below some of the published Roy Roger’s items in the book ‘Toys for Boys’.
Photographer credits: Alessandro Moggi
Roy Roger’s is available to shop online at: www.sevenbell.com
Lee Jeans celebrates their 125th anniversary this year. Henry David started in 1889 with the brand and became famous with their iconic workwear clothing. They developed several historical items like the bib overall, the first zip fly jean, the successful Rider jacket and Storm Rider jacket. All true classics for cowboys, rodeo heroes and rebellious teenagers like James Dean and Marilyn Monroe. Let’s Celebrate!
Also the Lee Jeans advertising were very progressive, see here below.
It was the year 2008 that a great project was started called ‘Amsterdam Denim Head Derby (ADHD)’. Only 30 young denim devotees were invited to be part of the first annual Amsterdam Denim Head Derby. What is a Derby? Well it’s a game, a match, a contest. The person who makes from the jean the most beautiful worn-out project will be the denim master. The jean is made a of Japanese purple selvage, 14.5oz, and handpainted leather patch. Limited to 30 pairs only.
Of the players of this competition was Alex Jaspers, a true devoted passionated denim guy from Amsterdam. Now responsible for the Scotch & Soda denim division. Check his master piece here below.
- Owner: Alex Jaspers from Amsterdam, Holland
- Brand: Project: Amsterdam Denim Head Derby (ADHD), Japanese purple selvage, 14.5oz
- Age: 6 months
- Treatment: No wash
You can check this great pair at the Hall Of Fade at Vif Jeans Store in Rijssen, NL;