Blackhorse Lane Ateliers makes and sell organic, selvedge & raw denim jeans from their atelier in London, England. Blackhorse Lane Ateliershas a focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers opened its doors in April 2016 and is founded by Bilgehan “Han” Ates which has 25 years of experience in the textile industry. They focus with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers on the following:
They manufacture their own line of premium selvedge and raw denim jeans. Theye offer multiple fits from super slim to vintage straight, in multiple raw denims.
Their atelier has collaborated with prestigious brands including Drake’s, Hussein Chalayan, Christopher Raeburn, King & Tuckfield, Endrime and Labour & Wait.
They offer sampling and production services for clothing made with denim and similar materials.
Below one of my personal favo jeans from the Blackhorse Lane Atelier denim collection: The E5 relaxed tapered jeans made of 14.5oz organic ISKOdenim fabric. The E5 fit has a medium rise, relaxed thigh area and a subtle taper from the knee downwards. The jeans is clean and classic, just how a perfect jeans has to look like. UK craftsmanship it is.
The Companion denim brand from Barcelona is making handcrafted denim items. On each item you will find some special details. The Companion Joel 012N Jeans is also loaded with some excellent specials. The basis is the so called ‘rainbow fabric’. The yarns of this jeans are first coloured with the rainbow colors before they touched the indigo blue. So when this Companion jeans fade you got a nice ‘rainbow fade’. Next to that the specials of this Companion Joel 012N jeans are;
13.5oz colour core, selvedge denim, 100% Cotton, sanforized, Japan
Companion stripes logo with “nerve” embroidery
One piece selvedge fly
Two tone stitching throughout the pair
Selvedge key hanger loop
Peek a boo selvedge on coin pocket
Double nerve stitch on pocket bags
Reinforced pocket opening with herringbone tape
Hand felled yoke and back rise
Italian hickory stripes pocket bags
Colorful chainstitch run-off on backpockets
Cotton cord inserted in beltloops
Japanese black laurel leaf buttons with copper prong
Antonio di Battistafrom Italy is besides a great denim collector, with an extremely huge and rare collection - more than 3.000 items-, the founder of the brand Blue Blanket Jeans. The Blue Blanket collection contains high-quality made denim goods. Every now and then Antonio drops some new items to the Blue Blanket collection. It was now the right time to develop some new great stuff which he just launched on his website. The new items are remarkable classic pieces like white plain tees, denim arpon, gilet, short, shirts (also for ladies!), loose fit jeans, workwear jackets and even a handmade wooden mini cruiser. Most of the items are made of fine Italian fabrics and has great details as Japanese woven labels. Always great to see the work of this craftsman and friend Antonio di Battista. Check the total collection on his site, below some of my favo’s. Keep up the good work!
Oldblue Jeans created a heavyweight edition a while ago. For this heavyweight Oldblue Jeans edition they used a clean slim straight fit. A slightly slim silhouette with the comfort of a regular straight cut. A perfect cut for your daily wear. For the fabric they used a 21oz selvage true indigo denim from Japan. The fabric is unsanforized denim. It starts as a rigid 21oz denim and once after the intial soak/wash it will become approximately 23oz. The selvage quality is made on an old authentic shuttle loom. For the innerpockets they used a hickory striped fabric, very strong and thick fabric. For the hardware, they used Japan made 100% copper washer – burr rivets and “Laurel Leaf” iron plated doughnut buttons, also made in Japan. The laurel leaf is a symbol of peace, used a lot on jeans and jackets during WW2. The leather patch is vegetable tanned US horse hide. So this will fade nicely together with this Oldblue Jeans.
This Oldblue Jeans is a true heavyweight champion. The fabric is so stiff that it can stand on it’s own. It’s a heavy denim project for the orginal denimheads.
Denim brand Pike Brothersis making high-quality selvage jeans. Some of the Pike Brothersdenim fabrics are made on the authentic shuttle looms from Picanol from the ’30′s. In the latest Pike BrothersJournal they showed us some serious cool shots of the making of these durable and classic denim fabrics. Below shots of how it works. The video shows you the loom in full effect with some fine music from Black Patti. Keep up the good work Pike Brothers.
This original vintage Levi’s Jeans jacket is another treasure from my private denim archive. It’s the famous Levi’s 559XX – Type 3 - jacket from the late ’60′s. The jacket is also known as a Big E (produced before 1971). This Levi’s Jeans 559XX jacket is the Winter version of the 557XX style which has a blanket lining. The back of the buttons are stamped with digit #525, so it’s produced in the U.S.A. The jacket has heavy worn fades, whiskers at the sleeves and some denim repairs. Also the lining is destroyed by wear. This Levi’s Jeans jacket is a heavy worn example with American roots.
Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans added a new family member to their denim collection. Their latest fit is the Tilted Tor. The Nudie JeansTilted Tor is the new anti-fit with a slim tapered leg. The waist is slightly tilted with a high back rise and a normal front. So if you are looking for something new with a narrow leg opening , Tilted Tor is the one for you.
The Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor fit is coming in two different options:
Dry Cold Black – 11.75oz comfort stretch
Dry Pure Navy – 11.5oz comfort stretch
Watch how the Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor looks like in this movie:
FDMTL(Fundamental Agreement Luxury) is started in 2005 by Gaku Tsuyoshifrom Tokyo – Japan. The collections from FDMTL are always inspired by the Japanese clothing history, so it contains a lot of repair, patches and indigo stuff. It has links with the vintage sashiko technique, old boro’s and kimonos. The FDMTL collections are a true inspiration for every (denim) designer and enthousiasm for blue jeans.
Kings of Indigo is the last seasons very strong with their women collection. They create unique cuts and finishes with their jeans, and also their tops are very special. It has a American work-sportswear character with a twist. Kings of Indigo just launched some strong new styles for Spring Summer ’17 and this Sade Jeans is really cool with their big selvage turn ups. The Sade Jeans is a relaxed straight fit. The legs are parallel straight from the thigh to the leg opening. The leg has a selvage turn-up of 20 cm. The jeans is made of 100% organic cotton, 13oz unwashed fabric.
Spotted this pair of Nudie Jeans at the Modefabriek tradeshow in Amsterdam last weekend. The jeans is a perfect example how beautiful the jeans of Nudie Jeans age. Check out the repairs, fadings and great honeycombs! Nice one Antony!
Lennaert Nijgh started his brand with a true passion for dry selvedge denim which eventually turned into Benzak Denim Developers. The first ‘Made in Japan’ styles were developed in 2011 and hit the market in September 2013. After years of slowly building the BDD brand, in 2016 he released his 2nd line, BENZAK – EUROPEAN MADE.
As it goes with many brands, the first orders are placed by those who are close to you, your friends. In the new Benzak lookbook you can meet some of them wearing the brand on their own way.
This little vintage Sanforized blue overall is from my private archive. It’s a boys overall from Sanforized made in the 1940′s. These kind of overalls were worn by farmers in the U.S. This overall is a small one, waist size 20. Typical about these 1940′s workwear is the orange thread. It has only one fly button, donut button, and one top button with the brand name Sanforized on it. The pockets are fastened with flat rivets. Like the most overalls you could wear this with suspenders. The suspenders on this overall is fastened by hand and is an original Sanforized one but without the original buttons. The backpockets are simple, plain, without any arcuates. The overall is made of right hand non-selvage fabric. The overall is a true American workwear style.
Rabbie Denim (R.D.G.) jeans is a denim label based in Glasgow,Scotland. The company was founded in 2013 by jeans designer Rabbie Denim. Up until now Rabbie has been making commission based one off pieces, which has led to boasting clients such as Manchester United and Barcelona Fc. Rabbie was recently described in the Financial Times contemporary arts issue as most creative jeans designer in the field.
Below the Rabbie Denim Tartan jeans in 14oz soft indigo Wembley denim. The jean has a tartan yoke and ticket pocket. Rabbie jeans are always an one off piece as they put a different slant on each pair. Check it out!
Dutch lifestyle denim brand Chasin’ launched their latest collaboration: Royal Attitude Denim Collection. With this collab Chasin’recycled uniforms from the Royal Netherlands Navy. The marine theme fits perfect with Chasin’brand pay-off: We Never Stop! Training and perseverance are essential, combined with the right ‘attitude’. The project was conceived together with James Veenhoff, founder of House of Denim Amsterdam.
Through recycling of naval pieces Chasin’created 2 stand out jeans, both in a 11,5oz quality. 1 is the iconic Ego jeans, which is the brand’s representation of the classic 5 pocket, with added stretch. A more contemporary fit is the cropped chino fit. For these jeans unique washes were created, inspired by the ocean. Next to the denims, the collection contains a denim jacket and several tops. The collection is now available through some selected stores as: De Bijenkorf,X Bank, en Denim Cityand some Scorestores.
Congrats guys with the launch of this great and creative idea. Jeans and Navy are a perfect match!
Celebrating the 10th sign of the Chinese Zodiac, Evisu Jeans brings the “Year of the Rooster” jeans. This collectable Evisu Jeans is made in limited quantities and represents the craftsmanship of Evisu. The jeans has embroidery details on it’s signature 2008 regular fit selvedge jeans. The coin pocket is made with red Godhead quality guaranteed print. The Kanji character of Rooster and Katakana characters of Evisu Jeansare featured on the rear pockets, and motifs of fierce Rooster and Kamon are embroidered on the black Daicock insert.
This deluxe pair of Evisu Jeans comes with a unique number on the gold leather patch, as well as a premium wooden box engraved with Kanji character of Rooster for the collectors. The specs of this special Evisu Jeans edition are;
• Year of the Rooster Limited Edition
• 100% Cotton
• Raw selvedge denim
• 2008 Regular fit
• Button fly
• Gold leather patch with limited edition number
Today I want to share one of the best fadings from my private denim collection. Personally I really like this kind of old school hardcore fadings. The jeans is a vintage Levi’s Jeans from the ’60′s. It’s the 517 style – Boot Cut - model, which is a typical ’60′s fit and very popular at that time. The jeans has an Orange Big E Tab on the backpocket. The Orange Tab collection was introduced as a more fashionable and affordable collection with bell-bottoms and boot cut jeans. Levi’s Jeans introduced their Orange Tab collection in 1969 and the Big E tabs were only produced until 1971, so a vintage pair with an Orange Big E Tab is quite hard to find. The back of the button is stamped with digit number 8 and the jeans features a Talon 42 zipper. The jeans is made from non-selvage right hand fabric.
This Levi’s Jeans has a true vintage natural faded pattern. The jeans is repaired a couple of times which makes the jeans more special. There’s a lot of brown patina on the jeans which appear when you wear your jeans very hard and long without washing. On the front you see beautiful whiskers and on the back the classic honeycombs. A lot of thread is broken and replaced with purple thread by the previous owner. Back in the days jeans were made with cotton thread which isn’t so strong as the cotton/polyester thread which they use nowadays. On the backpockets you see two colours of threads, this is very common on original Big E’s. The crotch is repaired more than once. This vintage pair of Levi’s Jeansis a prefect example of a hippie pair of jeans with amazing different shades of blue. Viva America!
One of my original vintage Levi’s ‘Big E’ Jeans Type 3 jackets from the ’60′s. The back of the buttons are stamped with the digit #526. The jacket is single stitched. Both details from the ’60′s. The jacket is customized by myself with the authentic Sashiko stitching technique from Japan. This jacket is a kind of a homage to the Japan. The ‘canvas’ of the homage is the authentic U.S.A. made jacket. The Sashiko stitching is done entirely by hand, even the red Japan flag on the back is painted by hand. In total I spend 40 hours to make this homage jacket. This special Levi’s Jeansjacket connects America and Japan.
Tony Patella and Pete Searson are the founders of the Tellason denim brand. They have been friends since 1990. Their love for durable goods, their respect for where they came from and who made them is the basis in their Tellason brand. They are 100% committed to the city of San Francisco and will make their jeans and only there, forever as they say. San Francisco is the home of the blue jean culture, so they don’t see why they have to change their production to somewhere else to save a couple of dollars. Perfect example of slow fashion instead of mass production. Only the best is good enough for the Tellason guys. Watch below the story of Tellason. Enjoy!
Last year Levi’s Jeansintroduced an amazing acquisition, the New Nevada – one of the oldest pairs of riveted waist overalls in the world. This jeans dates back from 1880. The jeans are in near perfect condition, save for wear marks and a few minor holes and tears, plus decades of dirt and grime. Before Levi’s Jeans add their latest purchases to their archive they clean the items first before they put it in their vault in tissues and boxes kept at a constant temperature. This extends the life of the garment. Check in the video below how they clean this old and very rare Levi’s ‘New Nevada’ Jeans from 1880.
The One Piece of Rock brand relies on support from the skilled craftsmen of Japan’s denim mecca in Kojima, Okayama. They create authentic denim styles based on the U.S. influences. The spirit of American good ol’ days renewed with a contemporary eye. The One Piece of Rock brand was started by Yoshiaki Konaka which has a preference for vintage denim workwear.
Today I want to highlight 2 classic One Piece of Rock items which are inspired by World War 2 pieces: Denim Jacket and a pair of Jeans.
The One Piece of Rock denim jacket, much like denim pants of this period, had a simplified design due to the wartime production restriction. The number of buttons was reduced from five down to four and the pocket flap was removed. This model was made during the war for use among the general U.S. population. The same story is behind the One Piece of Rock jeans, also called “WWII Model”, which is a simplified piece reflecting the wartime production restrictions. Both styles are very popular among denimheads. Check both items here below. And see also the film to see and learn more about One Piece of Rock.