The first jeans was developed for the workers in the mines during the ‘Gold Rush’ period in California. Pike Brothers developed a Miner Pant with the typical iconic features of those miner pants with their 1908 pants. The pants has some nice details as reinforced knees, one large back pocket, hammerloop, suspender buttons, high waist with comfort fit and button fly. For the Miner pants Pike Brothers used hemp denim, 14oz selvage hemp denim. The denim is 50% hemp and 50% cotton making it rich in structure and sturdy in construction. It is a denim fabric with an extraordinary character. This pants will take you back to the good old Gold days!
Available here: www.cultizm.com
A couple of years ago Lee Jeans made a limited run of their 101Z. This jeans is made of 23oz fabric. A true heavy denim monster. The ageing of this fabric is insane. Check it out here below.
Check another pair of the Lee Jeans 101Z 23oz in this diary by Freddy Keyner:
A lot of denim heads are making their own denim jeans and products nowadays. No mass production, but limited editions. Created by themselves on their own sewing machine. This to create an item which is made by their own ideas and vision. They prefer the best quality to make a product that stands a lifetime. The most popular and authentic fabrics are the selvage qualities. But it’s always difficult to buy only a couple of meters from your favo mill. For those guys there is some good news! You can now buy fabrics from the legendary White Oak mill. The minimum order is 6 yards.
Most of the denim heads knows the White Oak mill from Cone Denim – US, but if not here’s some info about them. The mill was named for the 200 year old White Oak tree that stood nearby and served as a gathering place for people traveling to Greensboro from the surrounding countryside. Construction began in 1902 and the first bobbin of yarn was produced on April 20th, 1905. Still true to its heritage, the White Oak plant in Greensboro, NC, operates today as the denim flagship operation, serving as the center for product development and innovation, and the production of Cone Denim’s authentic premium vintage denims made exclusively in the USA.
For now you can choose between two fabrics, both selvage. Check them out here below and enjoy making products with this famous fabric!
Fabric Weight: 13.50oz – Content: 100% Cotton – Selvage ID: Red
Fabric Weight: 10.50oz – Content: 100% Cotton – Selvage ID: Natural
Check the fabrics in their webshop here:
Blue de Gênes is a denim label from Denmark which takes their inspiration from the origin of jeans. That’s also how they came up with their strong name, Blue de Gênes. Their name refers to the time that harbor workers in Genoa, Italy, used to wear clothes made of the fabric Geanes fustian. This fabric was dyed in indigo, very strong and perfect for work pants. This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genoa, or in French “Bleu de Gênes”. English adaptation of the expression then became “Blue Jeans”.
The jeans of the Scandinavian brand are the basis of Blue de Gênes. All their jeans are made in Italy, meaning the entire process from stitching to washing. The jeans all have branded vintage buttons and rivets. The back pockets are made with extra covered rivets, which promises a strong hold. Their shirts are inspired by old worker shirts. Shirts have the characteristic Blue de Gênes branded real corozo hard nut buttons. The shirts are made in natural materials using cotton, hemp, linen and wool. Some fabrics are made on old selvedge looms and feature the characteristic red selvedge line. Most fabrics are from Italy and Japan. Below some shots from their Spring Summer ’16 collection.
You can check the new FW16 collection this weekend at the Dutch fashion fair Modefabriek in Amsterdam.
Freenote clothing company creates classic American menswear and honors tradition by manufacturing it’s collection exclusively in the United States. They source the finest materials and demand the highest level of craftsmanship so theye can offer quality clothing that is made to last. They take their inspiration from authentic American culture and it’s timeless style icons.
The brothers Matt and Andrew Brodrick founded Freenote. They are located in the historic district of San Juan Capistrano, a town that embodies the rancho era of territorial California. It is the ideal home for Freenote, which embraces America’s rich heritage and its classic menswear. Below some snap shots of what they create, check out their site to explore more craftsmanship!
To celebrate the 7 years in business together, Edwin Jeans and Cultizm Store have put their heads together to create an exclusive 5 pocket jeans. They created a limited edition ED-80 fit made from 15.3oz slub pink listed selvage denim. The selvage fabric is made at the Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan. Kuroki Co Ltd is widely known for both it’s quality and durability, churning out some of the finest selvage denim in the world for well over 30 years, offering the complete denim production process, including dyeing, weaving and finishing. The collab is made in 58 pairs only, available now!
It has been over 70 years since Big John from Japan started their business as a small sewing factory in Kojima, Okayama. This city is now known as the denim capital of Japan. Big John manufactured the first made in Japan jeans in 1965, and developed the first Japanese denim fabric in 1972. The RURI fit is Big John’s original 14.5oz sanforized selvedge denim. The RURI fabric is based on the fabric of the M1002 PROTO model, which was the first jeans made under Big John brand in 1967 using the fabric imported from Cone Mills Co. The RURI is dyed with special dyeing technique in which dipping was reduced to about a quarter of normal dyeing process, creating the bright light blue color. This is a color traditionally called RURI in Japanese, named after a deep blue gem (Lapis Lazuli in English).
Strolling around Ebay to find new rare vintage items is one of my fav things to do in the weekends. I just came across this vintage Levi’s Jeans jacket from the ’70′s. It’s from their ‘Orange Tab’ line and the previous owner embroidered a great patch of an indian on the back. Perfect and classic combination! Couldn’t resist it to add it to my private collection.
Last week I got my hands on these two deadstock JSB kids jeans. The jeans are inspired by the moviestar James Dean which became a very popular icon for the youth in the movie ‘Rebel without a Cause’ which came out in 1955. A lot of young kids wanted to be as cool as James who was dressed in jeans with a classic white t-shirt and a pair of boots. This era was also the breakthrough for the new rock and roll music. This period after World War 2 is one of the most important periods for the denim industry and also known as the ‘Golden Period’. A lot of small new denim brands were born. Denim became a fashion statement instead of daily workwear. Brands were using the new upcoming icons as a marketing tool to reach the teenagers.
These two deadstock pair of jeans, size 6 & 8, were made by the JSB brand. They are produced in Belgium around the late ’50′s. The pairs are made of right hand sanforized rigid denim fabrics, non-selvage. The back pockets are inspired by Lee Jeans, maybe because of the fact that James Dean was a fan of Lee. I couldn’t find a lot of info about JSB, so great if you know more about this brand. If you know more about it, please send me an email to: firstname.lastname@example.org. Check out these rebel jeans here below.
The brothers from RedWhiteBlue Co are making the finest and extremely cool clothing. Their philosophy has always been designing clothes with the highest quality and details as possible. Always with quality over quantity, the old fashioned way. The process of making quality, detailed garments as they do, by a small, skilled and determined crew, goes through a tedious process. All of their products are handcrafted and sourced from within the USA. So when you receive a RWB Co. made piece, every stitch, rivet, buckle, and button has a piece of ther soul embedded. If you’re not familar with their brand, below some shots from their blog, but check out their site to explore and see the old craftsmanship from these guys!
This pair of vintage Levi’s Jeans 501 is my biggest jeans from my private collection. The jean is from the end of the ’70′s and is made after the famous ‘Big E’ (untill 1971) period. The top button has a number 6 on it which is a reference to that era. It also has the famous Small E red tab, the backpockets are not single stitched and the wash care label is inside instead of printed on the inner pockets what they did before, also Big E period. So this paritcular jeans is from the late ’70′s, but it can also dating from the beginning of the ’80′s. The fabric has a ‘hairy’ look which you saw a lot in the ’80′s. Sometimes it’s difficult to determine the exactly producing period. This is a nice big boy, size 54 waist and length 30, in my private collection.
To celebrate the 10th anniversary from the awesome denim store Sivletto they team-up with denim brand Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.). For this anniversary they launched a very special “limited edition collection” that will be available exclusively at the Sivletto shop and online and in the K.O.I. online store. This special collab contains 3 master pieces in rock and roll black. The first item which they created is a 13oz selvage jeans, straight fit black denim with detailing that make the denim extra special; a pocket flasher, pocket bag print and leather patch especially developed for the occasion. To complement the black denim, there is a 100% organic cotton tee made from 180gsm single jersey in, of course, black, with an authentic chest print, designed for the anniversary. The last item in the collection is a classic bandana, with the same special limited edition print, made from 100% organic 30’s poplin cotton with a black discharge print. Well done guys and congrats Sivletto with this milestone!
Yesterday I visited the renewed multi-brand Score Store at the Kalverstraat in Amsterdam – NL. The store is located in the main part of the city centre of the denim kapital. They changed the store into something unique with a cross channel shopping experience. To celebrate this new adventure they bought a really special vintage item which is displayed as a corner stone in the store: an original pair of Levi’s Jeans 501 XX from 1927. This is a true blue indigo treasure and a very rare and historical item. Keep in mind that the complete Levi’s archive was burned during an earthquake and fire in 1906 in San Francisco’s. So many pieces are gone, after that they built up the archive again. That makes this 1927 jeans very special.
Before we check out this jeans, first some background info and specs about this particular jean. This jeans is probably the first 10oz redline selvage denim from Cone Mills – US. It features suspender buttons, cinch back, belt loops and a leather patch. The back pockets are stitched with single needed arcuates. The belt loops had been added in 1922 – modern men were now wearing pants with belts. Some men cut of the cinch so that they could use a belt. Levi’s was registered as a trademark in 1928, the famous original jeans were called the Two Horse brand. This pair hasn’t the Red Tab on the back pocket as it was introduced in 1936. Even as late as the 1920′s, there was still mining in the West, and many miners still wore the 501 jeans.
This pair was recently bought at the famous vintage BerBerJin store in Tokyo – Japan. The store owner is denim collector Yutaka Fujihara which also launched the Levi’s book: ”The 501 XX – A collection of vintage jeans” earlier this year. This book is a must have and a tribute to the mother of all denim brands. If you’re in Amsterdam, go visit the Score store to get the chance to see this historical item for yourself in real live, it’s really unique to see such an old jeans! Good luck with the great new store Score Crew!
The Levi’s jeans is also featuring in The 501 XX book, check the book here;
Joe & Co is a small independent British lifestyle denim & apparel brand. Their collections are inspired by timeless classics and the iconic looks that distils the workwear and casual wear of industrial Britain. The sneak production video here below is nice to watch, especially because the classic ’Riders on the Storm’ song is included.
My current daily jeans for 1.2 years, no wash, is the Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) 505 fit – Big E - from 1967. This replica jeans was one of the first more tapered version in the ’60′s. It’s made from 14oz right hand sanforized Cone Mills fabric and has a zip fly. As I am always wearing one pair for a period of 2 years this one has still some months to go. Below some snap shots of my best indigo friend for now! Show yours by sending pictures to: email@example.com
One of my last vintage treasures is this rare deadstock Lee Jeans Riders kids jacket. The jacket is new and an original one from 1940. It was found behind store shelves from an old denim store, named Ries Strauss Men’s Clothing, which was closed in the beginning of the ’70′s. The store was located in a small town called Danville, Illinois – USA (around 120 miles (190 km) south of Chicago). Lee Jeans introduced the Rider jacket in 1931 as the first more shorter tailored western style jacket. My jacket is probably from the mid ’40′s, the time that the World War 2 ended. This period was very crucial for the denim industry as a lot of soldiers left their denim items all over the world. This was the start from a new denim era. Also known as the ‘Golden Period’. But back to my jacket. It has the cool red/golden necklabel with Union Made – Sanforized on it. Under the label there’s the sizing label, boys 4. Also one of the breast pockets has the Amalgamated Garment Workers of America tag. One of the most cool things about the jacket is that the original pricetag is still on it, $2.98. The jacket is made with right hand denim fabric. It has some dust on the right side of the jacket from laying for the many years in the store. I was very happy that I could get my hands on this special item. It’s very rare to find deadstock unused items these days. Great addition to my personal jacket collection. Check here below the Lee beauty!
The Raleigh Denim video ‘We Make Jeans’ gives you an insight into the brand. Victor and Sarah Litvinenko talk about their passion, denim ofcourse, and they will show the unique details from their jeans. At the end they also show some worn-out Raleigh pairs. Meet Victor and Sarah, meet Raleigh Denim. Passion about denim.
- Owner: Robin Falck
- Brand: Edwin Jeans ED-55 ‘Made in Japan’ (14oz Nihon Mempu selvage fabric)
- Age: 1 year old
- Treatment: Robin built 3 kayaks, 2 motorcycles, painted pieces in Mexico, driving down dustroads on a tiny motorcycle with this pair of Edwin Jeans.
Nudie Jeans presents the Lean Dean US selvage. The latest baby of Nudie jeans is a Swedish selvage jeans, made in the USA, limited to 1.000 pieces. The jean is an homage to the craftsmanship and art of making denim. Made with 100% organic cotton, grown and harvested in the state of Texas. The 14.75oz selvage fabric was made by Cone Denim at their White Oak mill in Greensboro, North Carolina – US. The fabric was then cut and sewn at the Last Denim Shop in San Francisco, California. An edition for the true Nudie heads.