The last few seasons you see more and more black denims in jeans collections. And of course also shuttle loom made black selvage denims. Black coloured denims won’t fade the same way as indigo does. The black penetrates the fiber all the way through, making it almost impossible to get the same contrast as a blue pair of jeans. You could get some moustaches and honeycombs and such, but when washing it, the color will fade and make it grey. I know a black denim looks really cool and rock and roll, but I personally prefer the blue dry ones. Especially because these will age very nice with your own pattern over time. But Nudie Jeans made a cool black dry selvage with their Steady Eddie fit. And the result of wearing looks great after months of wearing. Below some detail shots of this black beauty.
Worn for 6 months
Edwin Jeans is established in Japan in 1947. They were one of the first denim producers in Japan. Founder Mr. Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import USA made, Levi’s Jeans, to the United States. In those times there wasn’t a denim manufacturer in Japan. The first Edwin jeans was crafted in 1961. The name Edwin came from utilising the letters from the word denim, and reversing the letter M to create a W. The big worldwide breakthrough was in the ’80′s when they launched a new washing, the famous stone washing.
Nowadays the Edwin brand is still up and running and they continued the same quality and authenticity as back in the days when they started. Recently I received one of their most popular fits from this moment, the ED-55. The ED-55 fit is a relaxed tapered jean. My pair is made of red listed Japanese 14oz selvage fabric. The jean has a button fly, brown leather patch and contrast arcuates stitching on the back pockets (which are also reinforced and lined). There’s also a woven ‘E’ tab label on the right pocket, something I think it’s a great subtle branding. Check out the detail pics here below from this well made in Japan brand! Many thanks Maureen from PR agency Back to Back and the Edwin crew for sending a pair! Stay raw.
Established in May 2013, the Hoya Apparel brand from Indonesia is named after a tropical plant. In their own words: ”We are focused to make the products the best and durable “machinery” that support your various activities. With “form follow function” principles, we recognize craftsmanship in an object’s functionality. Using best and selected materials, crafted by skilled hands, we truly deliver you a remarkable experience in our products”.
The pair below is made from 13.5oz right hand Cone Mills fabric. Looking forward to see more of this brand in the future!
At this moment I am working on a really cool new denim expo with private denim items from Jason Denham (Denham Jeans). The expo is part of the upcoming Amsterdam Denim Days, www.amsterdamdenimdays.com. You can see the expo on the Blueprint event which will be held on the 17th and 18th of April. I will use for the expo only the best of the best, rare vintage items from Jason’s personal archive. As he built an extremely huge and cool archive during his long career it is a true blue denim paradise at his HQ in Amsterdam. So come and join the blue event in April and see where this denim master takes his inspiration from. Below a sneak peak of the expo, an old and totally worn-out Evis Jeans from Japan. Hope to see you in Amsterdam!
Check more of Jasons Denham’s archive items here;
Deadstock Atelier LaDurance Kiddies Longies workwear denim pants. This deadstock pair has still the original hangtag and repair bullit. Didn’t see these small ones so often. The pants is made from 11oz Japanese non-selvage denim. It features all the classic ALD details. This small one is for the cool kids! Great addition in my private collection.
Yesterday I posted the docu ‘In search of blue gold’ with David White from Ragtop Clothing – London. Today I show you a vintage child’s Lee cowboy jeans, circa 1945, from his archive. The jean is in perfect state and has a beautiful blue colour. The back is teared and patched. It’s an Union Made pant with one side selvage only. The backpockets are fastened with the famous X stitching.
Eat Dust just launched their latest new products on their site. The core of the brand is jeans, but they also develop really cool tops. For Spring / Summer they come with new additions in their collection t-shirts, shirts, sweats and the long awaited Riders denim jacket. Especially the the denim jacket is my favourite. Check for the full line-up their site.
Red Cotton Denim is a denim brand founded by Camillo Love from Oakland – US. His brand is what we call an one man show as he’s doing everything by himself. Read below his story (the short version) in his own words how he started, where his inspiration came from and about his first order. Keep up the great craftsmanship Camillo!
”Back in 1999, I was stationed in Japan on the USS Kitty Hawk as an engineer with the Navy. I found a new appreciation for American made products when I saw how much the Japanese valued the quality of anything handmade in America. When I came back to the States, I worked for friends in the trades who owned their own businesses, cutting trees and building houses. Once I set my mind to making jeans, I was lucky enough to meet The Guy in San Francisco who knew everything about manufacturing denim. He was a sailor too and took the time to explain the business to me. Around the same time, I also met a guy in Oakland who was making kick ass jeans from start to finish by himself. He shared his knowledge about denim and machines with me and inspired me to follow my heart in making handcrafted denim. A few months ago, I landed my first order with a store in San Francisco. Crafting dozens of jeans by myself in only two weeks was a real test. And the start to realizing my dream. My ignorance at how hard it could be got me started. As I learned how much is involved, my determination kept me from giving up. My passion for hard work and quality American made goods is what you’ll find at Red Cotton Denim, from hand-sewn Cone Mills denim to the hand stamped leather patches”.
Nudie Jeans teamed up with Oil Polloi – British retailer to do a special collaboration with their Grim Tim style. The inspiration of this exclusive collab were the neon lights on the wet streets which give a special rainbow effect. They translated this effect on the back pocket stitching and the rainbow selvage which turned-out really special. The jean is made in Italy and the fabric is Japanese 14oz ring-spun denim. All the jeans are numbered and will come in a special box with the leather belt as closure. This Nudie Jeans x Oi Polloi Grim Tim Dry Rainbow was launched on February 26 and is made in 1.000 pairs.
www.nudiejeans.com & www.oipolloi.com
Brave Star Selvage was born in 2005 when they got an invitation from the legendary Cone Mills fabric factory to view their first selvedge denim collection. Cone Mills launched the newly White Oak label. Mik Serfontaine is the founder of this L.A. – U.S.A. based denim brand. Last week I received a pair from Mik to see the brand for the first time in real live. I was really surprised by the fit, fabric and details. The jean which I received is the Slim Straight. The entire production of this jean takes place at Brave Stars own facility in downtown Los Angeles. It’s sewn entirely on vintage Reece and Singer sewing machines. The chain stitching is done using only the best, a Union Special 43200G. The denim fabric of this particularly jean is a 14.75oz right hand twill blue Cone Mills selvage. The embroidered star insignia on the right back pocket represents ‘Made in America’ status. All the hardware is made in Kentucky and the leather back patch is cut and stamped in Los Angeles. The waistband label is woven locally in Los Angeles.
All in all a really nice clean classic denim made of high standards but available for a really sharp price. Think these Brave Stars are the best priced selvage jeans in the market if you check all the rich specifics. Check the jean here below to get an impression. Thanks Mik for sending me a pair. Good luck with your brand!
Brave Star Selvage is available here:
Last week I received an amazing pair of jeans from Ray Michaels, the man behind the Ray’s Raw Denim brand from Michigan – U.S.A. The jean is specialy made for me after he asked my measurements. A few weeks later something really special came in by the post. Something made with the best of the best! The jean is built on his R101 pattern and this is a classic loose straight fit which is a traditional work pant style. He call it a blue collar fit.
The jeans is made in his hometown Lansing, Michigan, USA. Lansing is famous for manufacturing Cadillac cars as well the Chevrolet Camaro. And now Lansing also has their own handmade denim brand called Ray’s Raw Denim! Many thanks Ray for being the first in Holland to check out your very nice made jean in real live. It’s unbelievable how it’s so perfect made full with great details! Ray also added Long John chain stitched in the inside of the front pockets as something secret and special. This jean shows some true craftsmanship. Bravo! Check below the beauty of the jean.
Classic pocket flasher on the right backpocket.
Thick natural vegetable tanned leather patch which will age very nice over time.
Fully felled seams are much more comfortable against your skin, and more durable since the seam stitches are less exposed to abrasion. The belt loops are all selvedge, as well as the internal fly pieces. The buttons are copper from Louisville, Kentucky, USA. They are the traditional donut type attached with two prong rivets, super-strong.
All of the pockets, including the watch pocket, are lined with matching red striped fabric. The rivets are true authentic poke through rivets, as you can see a bit of fabric fibers poking through them.
The waistband is chain stitched with Ray’s slogan: ‘Throw Some Rocks’.
Made in U.S.A. inside label.
They are made from 15.2oz denim from the Cone Mills White Oak plant in the USA. It is a beautiful right hand twill with just a bit of a sulfur grey cast to the indigo color.
Selvage button fly.
The jean is hemmed a little long with a red double-locking chain stitch so I could cuff them if I want.
Naked & Famous Denim will introduce a new line simply titled Naked & Famous Denim MIJ (Made in Japan). The jean is made with the highest standards using 15.7oz loomstate Japanese selvage denim. The fabric is made in a small mill which produces small batch artisanal denim. The design details about this special edition are; 100% iron buttons, copper rivets, hidden back pocket rivets, raised belt loops, union special chain stitched hems, and natural vegetable tanned leather patch.
The artwork and logos have been refreshed by famed comic book artist Alvin Lee. Known for his work with various comic book and video game studios, Alvin lends his talents to re-imagine the classic Naked & Famous Denim tragic blond logo in new manga style. The jean is only available at select Naked & Famous Denim retailers. Great work by the Canadian denim guys!
artist Alvin Lee
This original vintage Wrangler ‘Blue Bell’ kids jean is in my private collection for a while. The jean is from the late ’50′s and is heavily worn, probably by a 6 year old kid as you check out the inside label. It’s made from a left hand fabric which became extremely soft with all those washes. The blue indigo colour is amazing! It has not a selvedge edge and it’s made in the U.S.A. It’s a pity Wrangler doensn’t produce their premium ‘Blue Bell’ line anymore. Below some details shots.
Flying Horse is a premium British denim brand. The name Flying Horse came from a British pub. This drinking house, filled with postcards and memories of customers travels, was the inspiration of their brand. FH creates clothing that become more unique and personal by age with the wearer. As a favourite pair of indigo dyed jeans wears over time and takes the personality and life of it’s owner, all the FH items shares the same spirit. They call it ”The spirit of Indigo”.
Their highlighted denim in the collection is the Off the Loom. This particular jeans is made from 15oz right hand selvage. Unsinged cotton as jeans were in the old days. This gives the jean a hairy look and feel, very cool! The cotton is made in U.S.A. It’s dipped 12 times in indigo which gave the jean a deep indigo colour. The fabric is woven on a vintage shuttle loom, so it has the famous selvage edge. Also the tops are very nice of Flying Horse, so check out the brand for yourself.
The Japanese label Jelado is one of the high-end brands on the Japanese denim market, founded in 2005 by Yohei Goto. Goto-san is known not only for his success as a professional kickboxer, but also as the owner of a huge collection of vintage clothing. The Jelado’s JPD 505 is a classic 5-pocket jean, made from unwashed 16oz Japanese selvedge denim. The straight cut and slightly higher rise are based on cuts developed in the late 40’s. Classic pair of jeans made from premium quality.
Check the jean here: www.burgundschild.com
Harbour Town is a new concept label based in the Netherlands founded by Wing Mok. It brings forth a modern heritage look and appeals to that adventurous person who knows what they want and reflects on what they stand for. Harbour Town uses only the finest handpicked fabrics and materials. They search for the best fabrics from the East and the best leathers from the West. Since they only use deadstock fabrics and make everything by hand, every piece is unique.
Last weekend I got this great gift from Wing for my little baby girl. It’s a baby selvage denim apron. The apron is made by a deadstock rainbow right hand selvage fabric which is famous from Edwin Jeans from Japan. On the front they branded the apron with a nice piece of natural vegetable tanned leather with a handstamped logo. Both the denim fabric and the leather will age nicely over time. The apron is adjustable in the neck with a button. Many thanks Wing, it will be usefull for the little monster!
Zace American Dry Goods Denim from Ohio – U.S.A. is founded by Zace Myers. Zace and his family are farmers with a vegetable, herb and berry farm. After experimenting with 100’s of vegetable varieties over the years, they have found their niche in growing the hottest specialty peppers and herbs on the planet. During daytime they are farmers, but in the night Zace makes the most cool raw denim products. From denim aprons, bags (even Yoga bags), wallets, hats, and ofcourse jeans and overalls for men and women. The products are made from the best fabrics from the mills Cone (USA), Kurabo (Japan) and Candiani (Italy). Even his own kids Denim and Diesel (perfect names bytheway) are dressed with his own creations. The combination of raw denim fabics is prefect with their raw pure food from their own biologic farm. Check out this great Zace brand!
Zace Myers as farmer
Zace Myers cutting denim