Lennaert Nijgh started his brand with a true passion for dry selvedge denim which eventually turned into Benzak Denim Developers. The first ‘Made in Japan’ styles were developed in 2011 and hit the market in September 2013. After years of slowly building the BDD brand, in 2016 he released his 2nd line, BENZAK – EUROPEAN MADE.
As it goes with many brands, the first orders are placed by those who are close to you, your friends. In the new Benzak lookbook you can meet some of them wearing the brand on their own way.
This little vintage Sanforized blue overall is from my private archive. It’s a boys overall from Sanforized made in the 1940′s. These kind of overalls were worn by farmers in the U.S. This overall is a small one, waist size 20. Typical about these 1940′s workwear is the orange thread. It has only one fly button, donut button, and one top button with the brand name Sanforized on it. The pockets are fastened with flat rivets. Like the most overalls you could wear this with suspenders. The suspenders on this overall is fastened by hand and is an original Sanforized one but without the original buttons. The backpockets are simple, plain, without any arcuates. The overall is made of right hand non-selvage fabric. The overall is a true American workwear style.
Rabbie Denim (R.D.G.) jeans is a denim label based in Glasgow,Scotland. The company was founded in 2013 by jeans designer Rabbie Denim. Up until now Rabbie has been making commission based one off pieces, which has led to boasting clients such as Manchester United and Barcelona Fc. Rabbie was recently described in the Financial Times contemporary arts issue as most creative jeans designer in the field.
Below the Rabbie Denim Tartan jeans in 14oz soft indigo Wembley denim. The jean has a tartan yoke and ticket pocket. Rabbie jeans are always an one off piece as they put a different slant on each pair. Check it out!
Dutch lifestyle denim brand Chasin’ launched their latest collaboration: Royal Attitude Denim Collection. With this collab Chasin’recycled uniforms from the Royal Netherlands Navy. The marine theme fits perfect with Chasin’brand pay-off: We Never Stop! Training and perseverance are essential, combined with the right ‘attitude’. The project was conceived together with James Veenhoff, founder of House of Denim Amsterdam.
Through recycling of naval pieces Chasin’created 2 stand out jeans, both in a 11,5oz quality. 1 is the iconic Ego jeans, which is the brand’s representation of the classic 5 pocket, with added stretch. A more contemporary fit is the cropped chino fit. For these jeans unique washes were created, inspired by the ocean. Next to the denims, the collection contains a denim jacket and several tops. The collection is now available through some selected stores as: De Bijenkorf,X Bank, en Denim Cityand some Scorestores.
Congrats guys with the launch of this great and creative idea. Jeans and Navy are a perfect match!
Celebrating the 10th sign of the Chinese Zodiac, Evisu Jeans brings the “Year of the Rooster” jeans. This collectable Evisu Jeans is made in limited quantities and represents the craftsmanship of Evisu. The jeans has embroidery details on it’s signature 2008 regular fit selvedge jeans. The coin pocket is made with red Godhead quality guaranteed print. The Kanji character of Rooster and Katakana characters of Evisu Jeansare featured on the rear pockets, and motifs of fierce Rooster and Kamon are embroidered on the black Daicock insert.
This deluxe pair of Evisu Jeans comes with a unique number on the gold leather patch, as well as a premium wooden box engraved with Kanji character of Rooster for the collectors. The specs of this special Evisu Jeans edition are;
• Year of the Rooster Limited Edition
• 100% Cotton
• Raw selvedge denim
• 2008 Regular fit
• Button fly
• Gold leather patch with limited edition number
Today I want to share one of the best fadings from my private denim collection. Personally I really like this kind of old school hardcore fadings. The jeans is a vintage Levi’s Jeans from the ’60′s. It’s the 517 style – Boot Cut - model, which is a typical ’60′s fit and very popular at that time. The jeans has an Orange Big E Tab on the backpocket. The Orange Tab collection was introduced as a more fashionable and affordable collection with bell-bottoms and boot cut jeans. Levi’s Jeans introduced their Orange Tab collection in 1969 and the Big E tabs were only produced until 1971, so a vintage pair with an Orange Big E Tab is quite hard to find. The back of the button is stamped with digit number 8 and the jeans features a Talon 42 zipper. The jeans is made from non-selvage right hand fabric.
This Levi’s Jeans has a true vintage natural faded pattern. The jeans is repaired a couple of times which makes the jeans more special. There’s a lot of brown patina on the jeans which appear when you wear your jeans very hard and long without washing. On the front you see beautiful whiskers and on the back the classic honeycombs. A lot of thread is broken and replaced with purple thread by the previous owner. Back in the days jeans were made with cotton thread which isn’t so strong as the cotton/polyester thread which they use nowadays. On the backpockets you see two colours of threads, this is very common on original Big E’s. The crotch is repaired more than once. This vintage pair of Levi’s Jeansis a prefect example of a hippie pair of jeans with amazing different shades of blue. Viva America!
One of my original vintage Levi’s ‘Big E’ Jeans Type 3 jackets from the ’60′s. The back of the buttons are stamped with the digit #526. The jacket is single stitched. Both details from the ’60′s. The jacket is customized by myself with the authentic Sashiko stitching technique from Japan. This jacket is a kind of a homage to the Japan. The ‘canvas’ of the homage is the authentic U.S.A. made jacket. The Sashiko stitching is done entirely by hand, even the red Japan flag on the back is painted by hand. In total I spend 40 hours to make this homage jacket. This special Levi’s Jeansjacket connects America and Japan.
Tony Patella and Pete Searson are the founders of the Tellason denim brand. They have been friends since 1990. Their love for durable goods, their respect for where they came from and who made them is the basis in their Tellason brand. They are 100% committed to the city of San Francisco and will make their jeans and only there, forever as they say. San Francisco is the home of the blue jean culture, so they don’t see why they have to change their production to somewhere else to save a couple of dollars. Perfect example of slow fashion instead of mass production. Only the best is good enough for the Tellason guys. Watch below the story of Tellason. Enjoy!
Last year Levi’s Jeansintroduced an amazing acquisition, the New Nevada – one of the oldest pairs of riveted waist overalls in the world. This jeans dates back from 1880. The jeans are in near perfect condition, save for wear marks and a few minor holes and tears, plus decades of dirt and grime. Before Levi’s Jeans add their latest purchases to their archive they clean the items first before they put it in their vault in tissues and boxes kept at a constant temperature. This extends the life of the garment. Check in the video below how they clean this old and very rare Levi’s ‘New Nevada’ Jeans from 1880.
The One Piece of Rock brand relies on support from the skilled craftsmen of Japan’s denim mecca in Kojima, Okayama. They create authentic denim styles based on the U.S. influences. The spirit of American good ol’ days renewed with a contemporary eye. The One Piece of Rock brand was started by Yoshiaki Konaka which has a preference for vintage denim workwear.
Today I want to highlight 2 classic One Piece of Rock items which are inspired by World War 2 pieces: Denim Jacket and a pair of Jeans.
The One Piece of Rock denim jacket, much like denim pants of this period, had a simplified design due to the wartime production restriction. The number of buttons was reduced from five down to four and the pocket flap was removed. This model was made during the war for use among the general U.S. population. The same story is behind the One Piece of Rock jeans, also called “WWII Model”, which is a simplified piece reflecting the wartime production restrictions. Both styles are very popular among denimheads. Check both items here below. And see also the film to see and learn more about One Piece of Rock.
This vintage Levi’s Jeanskids jacket is another treasure from my personal denim archive. It’s a 70805 jacket, also known as the Type 3 jacket. The jacket is made in the ’60′s and is a so called Big E jacket. The Red Tab is cut-off but the back of the number is stamped with digit #527 (look closely to see the whole number) which refers to the Big E period. Red Tab Big E items were produced until 1971. The jacket is single stitched what you can see on the bottom at the closure. All indicators that this is a true original vintage piece. The size of this Levi’s Jeans jacket is Size 8, a small kids jacket. The jacket is made in the U.S.A.
This Levi’s Jeans jacket belonged probably to a kid with the name Chris as you can see on the chest patch. The patches of the jacket shows that his parents were really into bikes. The whole jacket is patched with original patches from the ’60′s and ’70′s. This was the period people would love to patch their denim jackets to express themselves. This Chris kid was definitely one of the coolest kids on school with this jacket. No doubt about that! Check below this cool Levi’s ‘Wild Thing’ Jeans jacket.
This Thursday the new JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO will open their doors in Tilburg – NL. This will be the 2nd JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO worldwide. To celebrate the store opening they will organise something very special. From the 8th till the 11th of December you have the opportunity to customize your new denim product with a special denimlaser and badge press machine. You can create your own limited edition!
And there is more! The first 20 clients everyday who buys for € 150,- or more during the openingsdays will get a free trucker jacket! So, come over and check out the new JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO in Tilburg and be prepared for a special denim experience.
Read also the previous article with more details about the store and see some exclusive sneak pictures from the new JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO in Tilburg - NL here.
From 1992 till 1994 Diesel Jeans from Italy created a special denim line inspired by the ‘Big 3′ (Levi’s, Lee & Wrangler) called Old Glory. Old Glory was the best line ever created by Diesel Jeans in my opinion. This special OG collection was really outstanding and totally different than other denim brands. It was one of the first denim premium lines. This line was launched before Levi’s Jeans came with their Levi’s Vintage Clothing – LVC line and before Lee Jeans dropped their 101 line. The Old Glory line was workwear inspired. Below the Gold Miner jeans from my personal denim archive. It features;
Classic 5-pocket fit
Original ’90′s washing
Next to the Old Glory line also the catalogs from Diesel Jeans from that time were outstanding and rare. They weren’t free and you had to buy them as they were made in low quantities. I added below some images from the Gold Miner pants taken from the original catalog dated from 1992.
Old Glory advertising Goldigger jeans pictures from 1992
Kirikomade an outstanding pair of jeans for women, a patched selvage jeans. For this unique pair Kiriko used various leftover fabrics of different materials and patched them to the denim. The details made this an one of a kind. The jeans is made of 13oz. selvage denim made in Fukuyama City, one of the biggest manufacturers out of Japan producing some of the highest quality. The fit is a boyfriend style, 5 pocket. The jeans is patched in the Kiriko studio in Portland, Oregon. The leather patch on the back is hand-embossed. All in all a really fine pair of jeans. Go girls!
Pharrell Williams is now ‘Head of Imagination’ at the Dutch denim brand G-Star Raw.Pharrell just launched his first collection: G-Star Raw Elwood X25-collection. G-Star Raw most famous jeans is the Elwood. This jeans, inspired by a biker pants and designed by PierreMorisset, was born 20 years ago in 1996. It was one of the first 3D constructed pairs of jeans. Very revolutionary at that time. Pharrell came with the idea to give this iconic piece a twist. He created 25 different styles with colorfull prints: camouflage, checks, and prints from all over the world. The collection was released in L.A. but will be available this upcoming February through some selected retailers wordwide and through the G-Star Raw website.
Denham Jeanslaunched this weekend a limited edition: Denham Razor VISS – Virgin Indigo Stretch Selvage – Made in Japan. After years they are back with a special edition made of the legendary Japanese Kaihara Mill. For this edition Denham Jeans used a classic 14oz weight redline selvage denim fabric. The fabric contains 2% elastane for more comfort, but the fabric feels true rigid. The jeans is a kind of a homage to Japan and features some amazing details: red buttons, red rivets, one piece selvage fly, selvage coin pocket, Japanese patch and a red siccor on the backpocket (691 stitches in every scissor). The Denham Jeans jeans is made in a limited of 650 pieces worldwide.
Thanks to Edwin van Zoerenfor sending the pictures, he’s the lucky owner of number 587/650. Edwin is a true Denham fan, follow him on Instagram @edwin028.
Today I want to share another original vintage pair of Levi’s 501XX – Big E - Jeans from my personal denim archive. It’s a Levi’s Jeans501XX pair from the late ’60′s. It has a really cool crotch repair and many signs of hard wear. These kind of fadings on original Levi’s Jeansare for me personally the best. The jeans has so many character and is loaded with the original features as;
Kings of Indigo (K.O.I)launched in 2012 their first collection. The brand dna is inspired by American classics with details from Japan. A perfect mix for a successful denim brand. Their key words are quality, innovative and sustainable. The name Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) came from founder Tony Tonnaer’s favorite tattoo, a koi fish on his right shoulder in remembrance of his mother. Koi fish are intelligent creatures and they tend to swim against the stream which is a strong metaphor for the rebellion that comes with the denim lifestyle. In Japan the Koi fish stands for luck, love and perseverance. Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) brand is now available through 250 carefully selected retailers in 12 countries and online, with a focus on Northern Europe.
Also the marketing is impressive and fits perfectly with their brand dna. They created one of the largest, if not the largest, selvage jeans as promotion with waist size 82 and length 32. The jeans called Sumo and refers to the Rodeo Clown Pants jeans from the ’40′s and ’50′s from brands as Lee Jeans and Wrangler. The Sumo jeans is made of high quality rigid redline selvage fabric and has all the details of the regular Kings of Indigo (K.O.I)jeans. On the back of the jeans they attached a true cool embroidery which makes this Sumo jeans very special.
I’m very happy to have this big Sumo jeans in my denim collection. This is the biggest selvage jeans in my collection so far. Meet Sumo here below.
Fernando García de la Calera from Spain is the founder of The Concrete brand. Fernando started his brand in 2007. As a fanatic skateboarder heused to skateboard a lot and called their skate spot The Concrete, that explains the origin of his brand name. In the beginnig he created designs for skateboards and t-shirts, but soon changed to urban clothing based on elegance, comfort and durability. Fernando is running The Concrete brand from his tailor shop in Madrid – Spain. The core of the brand, and also the specialty of Fernando, is working with the denim fabric. Meet Fernando García de la Calera and his craftsmanship.
Fernando García de la Calera
One of my personal The Concrete favorites are the The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jackets. The jackets are made of high quality denim fabrics and perfect for your motorcycle trips.
Denim artist Ian Berry has a new solo exhibition called ‘Behind Closed Doors’ at Catto Gallery in London. Exactly there are two exhibitions in one expo space. The other part is called ‘My Beautiful Laundrette’.
Ian Berry works solely in denim, cutting and gluing to create highly detailed, photorealist pictures that have to be seen to be believed. You will have to see his great work in real live to believe that it’s totally made of old denim rags. He’s using the different shades of the rags as a palette to create his master works. It’s really insane!
The expo ‘Behind Closed Doors’ is about isolation and inner turmoil. He despite calm outward appearances, and is portrayed through solitary figures in familiar beautiful settings. A reference perhaps to show you can have possessions, yet not always be content in this material world. With ‘My Beautiful Launderette’ he shows spaces that were once at the heart of the community but are now frequently closing down.
Both projects looks really amazing as always! I’m a big fan of his work for some years and I’m always impressed how he create those true master pieces. Go check it out when you’re in London. Big bravo Ian!
16 – 30 November 2016
14 Percy Street | London | W1T 1DR