Edwin Jeans Malaysia just announced their new Limited Edition Edwin Rainbow Selvage jeans. The jean is made of a special rainbow selvage 13.25oz fabric. The jean will be made in run of 750 pieces and every jeans is individually numbered. The backpockets are the best part of this special edition as they are stitched with the colours of the rainbow. This idea of the backpockets looks the same as the special edition from Nudie Jeans and Oi Polloi from last year, check: www.long-john.nl/nudie-jeans-x-oil-polloi-rainbow-grim-tim-jean/. Looking forward to see this one in real live, but don’t know if it will released in Europe.
My friends from the denim platform Heddels just released their latest video: ‘Inside the Vault – The Methodology of Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC)’. For their new video they went to the holy grail, the Levi’s Jeans HQ in San Francisco. The Levi’s archives in San Francisco contains thousands of items from the brand’s nearly 150 year history including jeans and apparel, marketing materials, textile samples, packaging, promotional items, and much more. The current LVC Spring Summer ’16 line takes inspiration from the Levi’s company baseball team, “Elesco”. Elesco games date back to 1886, and Senior Designer Paul O’Neill based this collection upon a single photo of the company team from 1913. In the video you can see Paul and Levi’s Jeans archivist Anastasia Fink talking about the Elesco collection and their extremely old vintage miner pants from their archive. Thanks guys for giving us an insight into the Levi’s vault. Great video! Enjoy.
Companion Denim is a denim brand from Barcelona – Spain. The brand is using the finest selvedge denim coming from an accurate selection of qualities from the best mills, mostly from Japan, USA and Italy. The jeans are artisanally crafted with a selection of the best sewing machines for making denim. Using a mix of both modern and classic vintage machines which made the jeans of the old. Some of those machines are even 100 years old and make a beautiful and highly durable stitching. Next to their limited made jeans they also offers custom jeans, so you can make your favo pair of jeans. Below some inspiration shots of their custom jeans.
Worn-Out Projects: Nudie Jeans
Brand: Nudie Jeans – fit Steady Eddies
Worn: 2 years – washed a few times
Info: The jean is worn by the owner when he sailed across the Atlantic, when riding his bike and being a teacher. Great result!
The new Spring Summer 2016 collection from Eat Dust is called ‘Cuckoo’s Nest’. Next to their classic denim items Eat Dust brings every season a collection with a street- and workwear twist. Founders Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco are always creating items which they want to wear themselves. They keep it close to their own interests and needs. The results are always very creative and innovatory. Think this is one of the reasons why they are so successful. Well done buddies!
Last week Amsterdam was coloured into blue again because of the Amsterdam Denim Days. The kick-off was with the denim fabric fair Kingpins. The consumer event Blueprint was on Friday and Saturdays. It was already their 3rd edition. This event is for consumers and retailers to give them more insight into the blue denim industry. It’s a blue denim playground for adults. The event was loaded with cool blue stuff. A lot of brands where there to show their craftsmanship through innovative and inspirative activations. Next to see cool stuff it’s always very nice to meet likeminded people with the same interests, denim people.
The event contained too much to highlight but here are some of them in the first update from the Blueprint event. It contains the legendary Cone Mills. Cone Mills showed some iconic pieces from their archive to celebrate their 125th anniversary. Lee Jeans did an amazing job to chainstitch their classic Riders items, at Kings of Indigo (KOI) you could patch your favorite denim items, denim artist Ian Berry showed his amazing portrait from Ayrton Senna. The portrait is made of old denim rags from the family from Ayrton Senna. The final pics are from the denim expo from The Vintage Showroom from London. They displayed some vintage overalls. Check out some highlights in Part 1 of the Blueprint event as part of Amsterdam Denim Days. Looking forward to part 4 next year!
The French vintage workwear inspired brand Fatboy Clothing Company is founded by Charles Niehues. All his creations are worked individually by hand, respecting all techniques of traditional work to have a genuine result. For Spring Summer ’16 he developed some really nice high quality made denim items. The items are made with Japanese fabrics which were came from an old Japanese factory from the ’50′s. The items are made with really cool authentic details. Below some highlights which are available this upcoming May on their website. Check also the really nice photoshoot which he did for his new lookbook. These pics gives you the feeling to want to work at the railroad and into the woods. Very nice Charles, keep up the good work!
The F.B.C. Spring Summer ’16 Lookbook
Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) announced a collaboration with Collect Denim Mill from Japan. Toghether they created a new special selvage fabric which you can now pre-order in the following fits: BDD-006, slim fit, and the new regular fit BDD-707.
The low tension is the first BDD special, together with their Japanese friends from the Collect mill this denim has been created exclusively for BDD. With a 14oz. right hand selvage fabric, this is a perfect mid-weight and the construction is slightly looser which allows for an uneven weaving pattern and small slubs. The selvage colour id is yellow & green, and represent the first stages of indigo, before it becomes the distinctive dark blue color. This is a very cool and creative idea! This colour combo is carefully developed by BDD and is very unlikely to be found elsewhere. The special bull patch is made from super thin goat leather from Italy and marks the fabric’s exclusivity. Because the denim is sanforized, minor shrinkage is expected after the first wash. Both jeans are created in Holland and crafted in Japan. Well done Lennaert, very nice!
Lennaert Nijght (Founder BDD) with the BDD Special
As a reward for pre-ordering, you will receive a brand new Benzak tee in white or black heavy jersey, with a crackle print. Just like indigo and leather, this print will age and becomes nicer with wear and wash.
Pre-order your BDD jeans here:
The first year students from the Amsterdam based Jean School went to Italy to finish their garments for the G-star 3301 restyle project. They went to the Candiani mill to see where their fabric for this project came from, and for the finishing of their garments they went to Elleti. Here is the first part of their after movie. Good luck with your projects, looking forward to see the results!
Blue de Gênes from Denmark just launched some great new items for Spring Summer 2016. The items are all made with authentic craftsmanship and loaded with rich details. Let’s highlight some of them here below.
The Blue de Gênes Vigo Harajuko Shirt, the Monta Rugged Waistcoat, the Gio N2 Jeans w1080, the Gari Belt and Scarf and Blue de Gênes Key Hanger.
The Blue de Gênes shirt button is made of corozo nut. (The Vigo Harajuko Shirt is inspired by old shirts and has a classical grandad opening. The particular stitching and patchwork details contribute to a fine vintage look).
Most of the Blue de Gênes shirts are inspired by old worker shirts. The shirts have the characteristic Blue de Gênes branded real corozo hard nut buttons. The shirts are made in natural materials using cotton, hemp, linen and wool. Some fabrics are made on old selfedge looms and feature the characteristic red selvedge line. Most fabrics are from Italy and Japan.
The Monta rugged Waistcoat is a tailored gillet/vest and has buffalo horn buttons.
The Gio N2 Jeans is a slim fit jean in indigo blue which is made in Italy. The Gari Belt is a co-lab belt made with together with Dukes Finest Artisans. It’s handmade and handpainted and tells the great story of the Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldis adventures. The Blue de Gênes Keyhanger is made of corosu nut where only parts of the shell is polished off to give it a rough look. It will start by being ivory white but over time it will take colour and get a roustiqe look.
Check more new items for SS16 here: www.blue-de-genes.com
Over history the Utility Jacket has been worn for a variety of purposes, from workwear and military combat through to leisurewear. For this design, the UK brand Nigel Cabourn pieced together three different vintage garments including the USMC shirt jacket and these can be seen in the distinct upper and lower parts as well as the left chest pocket. This great item is made in two colours for Spring Summer ’16: a special washed indigo and an indigo denim version. Great denim cut and sew item!
Supported by Dutch Grolsch beer, Denham Jeans partnered with Dutch portrait photographer Marc Haers to create ‘Workoncanvas’. The concept from ‘Workoncanvas’ is to highlight the craftsmanship in Amsterdam. Liam Maher (brand director of Denham Jeans) and Marc Haers are giving an insight into the life of several very skilled craftspeople. Together they hand-picked seven artists who combine the skill and heritage of traditional crafts with their work and fitted them with a virgin Denham wardrobe. After 6 months of wear we can see how their creativity, craft and experiences have literally been mapped across their denim. The ‘Workoncanvas’ project offers a unique portrait of the artists, but also a portrait of Amsterdam itself – where it’s been, where it is today and where it is going.
After the Lee 101 – 23oz and Lee 101 – 19oz monsters, Lee Jeans just launched with their premium 101 line their new creation: Lee 101 Cinch Tapered Jeans. This new fit is the most tapered one in their 101 collection, while the top of the jean is more relaxed fitted. The jeans has a zipper closure which is a real trademark from Lee Jeans. The fabric of the jean is a righthand 16oz Japanese orange selvage. The fabric is treated with a sulfur bath and dipped eight times in indigo. On the back of the jean they put an authentic cinch and their classic hair-on-hide leather patch. The dark orange treads and copper button gives this Lee 101 Jeans a true vintage workwear feeling. Check also the orange selvage in the waistband!
Available here: www.lee.nl
The Grivec Brothers, Marcel and Roger Grivec, also known as the ‘Dry till you Die’ brothers just launched their first denim collection. Next to running their awesome and very respected denim store Jeanspaleis based in Kerkrade, The South of Holland, they worked many years to create their ultimate jeans. If you have ever met those guys with a huge passion for denim you know that their jeans would be special, something different. I really like their jeans, the identity, the story and the look and feel. One of the best I have seen in a while, really! It’s loaded with nice details. Big bravo for the ‘Grivec Brothers’!
Before we check the Grivec Brothers jeans, first some history about the Grivec Brothers and denim in the Netherlands.
The first jeans advertising in the Netherlands was published in the daily newspaper ‘Het Limburgs Dagblad on February 1st in 1952′. The ‘cowboy jeans’ were undoubtedly advertised as heavy duty workwear with the many miners in mind that used to live in South Limburg, the Dutch coal mining region, close to the borders of Belgium and Germany.
Coal mining in Southern Limburg has taken place since 1885. The city of Kerkrade, which had become the largest mining town in Europe had a massive influx of workers to take up jobs in the mines. Who came not only from all parts of the Netherlands but also from older mining areas in Germany, Belgium, France, Poland, Italy and elsewhere. Also the grandfather from the Grivec Brothers, Jozef Grivec was one of them who left Mirna Peč Valley, South East Slovenia in 1948 in order to create a new and better future for his family. His youngest son, the father of the Grivec Brothers, was a truck driver who tried some extra luck with selling jeans from door to door. After a while he opened his denim store in 1976 based in Kerkrade. His two twin brothers sons, Marcel and Roger Grivec, grew up in his store which was filled with the classic brands like Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler.
At the age of only 18 years old the Grivec Brothers took over the denim store from their parents. The brothers had a really good eye for new upcoming brands with a different approach than others, brands which were part of a way of life. They were debt on the success of several denim brands which explains why their denim store became very popular by people with a true passion for denim products. The brothers dived into the lifestyle and were the denim ambassadors as it comes to dry denim. That also explains their motto ‘Dry till you Die’.
Marcel and Roger Grivec also known as the Grivec Brothers
The next step in their ‘Jeanspaleis’ denim store was setting-up a denim repair corner as a lot of denimheads had to repair their unwashed denim after wearing it for a year or more without (or with) washing. They became really skilled in repairing jeans on the right way with their authentic Pfaff and Union Special machines from the ’40′s and their Singers from the ’50′s. A lot of denim guys from all over the country are sending their beloved ‘projects’ to these guys so they can give them a second life.
But as for almost every real denimhead it’s the ultimate dream to create your own pair of jeans. In all those years running the store and repairing jeans from other brands Marcel and Roger had a real clear vision how they would develop their ultimate classic 5-pocket jeans. Now it was the right time to follow their dream and show the world their view of making a pair of jeans. That’s how their first denim collection Grivec Bros was born!
For the Grivec Bros jeans they collaborate with graphic and branding master Boy Bastiaens from Maastricht. Boy is a legend as it comes to brand identities. Check some of my favo highlights here in a previous post about his work: www.long-john.nl/my-personal-highlights-from-boy-bastiaens-nl/
The Grivec Bros collection contains two jeans fits. The first fit is ‘Cool Pete’, their regular tapered cut, a jean in a 14oz Japanese selvage denim by the Kaihara mill, known for producing some of the finest indigo dyed cloth on the market. The second fit is ‘Hower’, a classic high rise jeans with a great silhouette with a slim tapered cut. The jean comes in a carefully woven and dyed 14oz Japanese selvedge denim quality from the Kaihara mill. The jeans are made in Portugal. Ofcourse both fits are dry, unwashed fabrics which become more beautiful by wearing them day in, day out.
The Grivec Bros top button.
For their button fly they use four classic ’13 star’ buttons, which have their origin in U.S. naval uniforms but were also used in 1940′s American mail-order jeans because of short supply of materials during WWII. They made their ’13 stars’ from red brass in a tribute to the lesser known jeans classics.
The inside of the jeans. Inside pockets made of heavy cotton. Check the classic V-stitching to the top button and the red line selvage fly!
Personalized Grivec Brothers rivets.
One-line triangle backpocket arcuate stitching.
Grained natural leather patch on the back of the jeans with their logo. The leather refers to their childhood when they had leather schoolbags.
Each jean is wrapped in a miners towel. These towels were used back in the days by miners to keep their laundry separated.
Every good pair of jeans deserves a high quality leather belt so they also created two Service Belts. The belts are hand cut, hand scoured, hand polished and made from vegetable tanned leather with a patent closure design. Made of best hide, sole bend leather.
Curious how the Grivec Bros jeans will look after 5 months of wear? Check the sneak pic here below.
Their products are now available in their Jeanspaleis store and also soon online:
Keith Hioco and Rob Harmsen from Eat Dust just launched their new denim shirt ’2 Tone Western 70tis’ for Spring Summer 2016. The shirt is made of Japanese 70′s denim fabric. It has two front pockets with tonal Z-Bar stitch, marble snap buttons, Eat Dust woven labels. It comes in a slim fit which makes this a perfect denim shirt for upcoming sunny days. Check their site for more new stuff.
Keith Hioco (Eat Dust) wearing the Western Denim Shirt 70tis
Denham Jeans developed close collaborative relationships with the worlds best denim mills like Candiani in Italy. The renowned Italian mill Candiani has developed the finest Italian selvedge with golden rivets that function as a quality seal certifying that the garment is made of premium Italian denim fabric. Denham has been chosen as one of Candiani’s exclusive European partners. The resulting styles celebrate natural balance and authenticity. This month the brand is celebrating Candiani featuring the Rivetto D’oro golden rivets range. For men the brand made the Razor Slim Fit made with Italian selvedge fabric and treated with natural wear pattern taken from the Denham archive.
Shockoe Atelier was founded in 2012 by Anthony and Pierre Lupesco. The Lupesco family has been in the luxury menswear business for over 40 years, having worked with leading European luxury brands such as Ted Lapidus, Isaia and Belvest. Shockoe Atelier builds on the tradition and craft of the great European luxury houses, but with a distinctly American point of view. They made denim by hand in their Richmond VA workshop.
The jean below is their Classic Kojima jean. The Classic Kojima jean is their classic fit made with a 14.5oz slubby silver cast denim from Collect Mills in Japan. The fit has a higher rise, classic seat and thighs with a slightly tapered leg opening.
Take a look into the Shockoe Atelier
Sundays are perfect to stroll around Ebay to find some nice vintage denim items. Today I came across a really special item from Levi’s Jeans. A rare vintage and hard to find Levi’s Jeans from 1920′s. The jeans were discovered long time ago by an explorer in a mine shaft in the great basin of the US. The jeans have all the features of that time. It’s a true vintage treasure. You can buy it for $6.500,- Check the beauty here below.
Check the item here on Ebay:
The Amsterdam based denim store ‘Tenue de Nîmes’ launched their collab jeans with one of Japan’s most influential denim brands: Japan Blue. This special denim collab collection consists three exclusive Japanse slim-fit denims: Two dry denims and one washed jean. The dry garment is made out of a beautiful fabric with an indigo warp and black weft and has tone-on-tone stitching.
General information about the project: The company’s founder Mr. Manabe proposed to do a special partnership with Tenue de Nîmes and Japan Blue Co Ltd. to introduce the world to one of his latest denim achievements: Côte d’Ivoire Cotton Jeans. Japan Blue started investigating this type of African cotton while on a journey to uncover the origin of jeans. The Japanese denim experts were looking for a type of cotton that could match the sort that was used when production of denim first took off, as far back as the 19th century. Côte d’Ivoire cotton is hand-picked, minimising any damage in the process. Garments made with this cotton are comfortable to wear and the fabric will show a magnificent, natural color fading over time.
The jeans have a special co-branded patch and are limited to 60 pieces only. Check also the special selvage from this collab jeans. Congrats guys!