A couple of years ago Lee Jeans introduced their heavy weight 23oz jeans, made in a limited run of 250 pieces only. Now they are back with another bad boy, 101 Rider 19oz. The jean is made of a fine Japanese quality with two different selvage colours. The Rider fit is a classic in the Lee range, normal rise with tapered legs. Check them out in the great webshop from Meadow. Looking forward to see a worn-out pair of this one!
Spanky denim is a small scale denim brand from Indonesia. They are dedicated and focused on delivering the best quality and personalized denim pieces. Their collection of premium fabrics and hardware are sourced from Japan, USA, Italy and their home country Indonesia. They are using authentic Union Special machines for strenght and the best details.
Check out this heavy bad boy made from 21oz selvage fabric. It contains all the classic jeans features like: V-stitch top button, hidden rivets, leather patch, laurel leaf buttons, reinforced back pockets, selvage, etc. Follow Spanky Denim on Instagram: @spankyid. Keep up the good work guys!
I have a kind of weakness for denim jackets. Especially when they are patched or natural destroyed with wear, but sometimes you come across vintage items which are amazing by themselves. This is one of them. I already have a lot of Lee Jeans Riders jackets from the ’60′s and ’70′s but this one is an original 101-J from the ’50′s. Not so long ago I already scored another one from this period, but that one is totally washed out and destroyed with time by the previous owner(s). The new 101-J is in great condition, it has a perfect blue colour and the golden / red neck label is still excellent! Old Lee jackets in these mint condition are hard to find. Great to add this one in my private collection!
While the summer finally kicks in and the trade shows are on full force right now the Amsterdam based denim brand Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.) launched their new Spring Summer 2016 collection at several fairs. Their new collection has some great international influences from Japan and the U.S. You can also see that in their logo where the American cowboy is riding a Japanse koi carper. The SS16 collection has inspirations from authentic workwear, marine stripes, Japanese sashiko stitching, and seventies patch-up customized items. The link in the whole collection is of course the indigo blue colour. As I said before, the 2015 summer kicks in, but prepare yourself for the summer of 2016! Well done guys!
Cheese Denim Works is a great denim brand with high standard jeans. The material of this particular jeans is sourced from a small mill in Okayama, Japan. The denim is raw unsanforized, heavy weight: 17oz selvage. The fit is slim straight. The jean has a laurel leaf button as top button and the back pockets have a hidden rivet. All in all a super nice authentic pair of jeans. Check the jean here below.
Denham the jeanmaker is coming with something very innovative as it comes to make your pair of worn jeans fresh again. For Fall Winter ’15 they will launch their Soap Nuts range. The Soap Nuts contains a natural substance called saponin, which when dissolved in water, creates mild suds that is very similar to soap. This soapy substance has remarkable detergent properties, easily replacing normal detergents. It works effectively by removing dirt and dissolving oils from your denims. The Soap Nuts has no chemicals, no perfume and only pure natural enzymes. You have to wait a little while until these crazy nuts will hit the stores!
Came across this vintage pair of Levi’s Jeans. The pair itself is not so special but what makes this jeans so great is the blue BigE tab. But the best detail from this pair is the super nice label with the gold miner image on the back pocket. Check it here below.
Selvedgework denim is making handcrafted jeans. You can make your own favo jeans with all the details you like. You can choose from more than 20 high quality selvedge fabrics in their own atelier. Take your all time classic fit and spare parts and create your dream pair of jeans. Check the video for the whole process.
Came across this beauty on Ebay, Lee Jeans 101-J Rider jacket from the ’50′s. The jacket has the yellow/red tag which refers to the beginning of the ’50′s. It’s from the same period as the Levi’s 507XX jacket. This Lee jacket has an amazing embroidery on the back. The auction is opened at $ 3.499. Although this is a great jacket, this is way to high for me to place a bid, but it’s damn cool! One of the best I have seen. Check the great jacket here below.
The Dawson Jeans are all made in their own workshop in Brighton using vintage sewing machines from the 1950′s. Inspired by early 20th Century overalls. This DD03 White Selvage jeans is available with cinch back and suspender buttons or belt loops.
Some of the great details of this classic pair of indigo waist overalls are; 13 oz indigo dyed white selvedge, a copy of a pre 1930’s quality – Woven on Japanese Imamura looms developed in the 1920’s - Natural Japanese herring bone pocket bags, all pockets are fully lined. – Natural undyed leather patch, branded by hand. - Numbered product, signed by our maker. All in all a great pair in true authentic gold miners style.
One my latest denim treasures is this vintage denim Powrhouse jacket from the late ’50′s or begin of the ’60′s. The jacket was sold exclusively sold through the Montgomery Ward retail chain in the U.S.A. Montgomery Ward is a department store retailer, which operated between 1872 and 2000. The jacket had original sleeves but they are cut off by their previous owner. The model of the jacket is inspired by the 507XX – Type 2 – jacket from Levi’s Jeans which came out in 1953. In those times you saw a lot of workwear brands with references to the leader in the market, Levi’s. The Powr House jacket is made with a non-selvage right hand fabric and has the 101 buttons. It has a great vintage washed out look. Check it out here below.
This Wrangler ‘Blue Bell’ 11MW (Men’s Western) is in my private collection for a while. It’s an unused jeans with all the original tags like the legendary comic book. This jean is inspired by the rodeo clown pants from the ’50′s. The repro model is the 11MW which was originally introduced in 1947 when Blue Bell changed their company name into Wrangler. The original pair had the arcuate stitch (like Levi’s Jeans) but in 1948 they changed it into the now famous ‘W’ stitch. This repro pair has the great embroidered back with the advertising Jeans, Shirts and Jackets words. It’s made of a 12oz left hand fabric with non-selvage. Even these repro’s are hard to find as Wrangler stopped producing this authentic line a few years ago. Check the jean here below.
Fred Hurkmans went to Greece a couple of weeks ago and this was the perfect time to give his 10 months old Nudie Jeans Grim Tim a natural sea rinse. Always great to see this authentic way of rinse treatment. The ocean is one of the best places to make your denim fresh and clean. Nice Fred! Check out his worn-out project!
Owner: Fred Hurkmans from Eindhoven, Holland. Salesman at Rambam denim store Eindhoven, www.rambam.nl
Yesterday I already posted the innovative collaboration from the Italian denim mill Candiani, Jean School Amsterdam and Amsterdam Fashion Institute (Amfi) during the second edition of Amsterdam Denim Days – Blueprint last April. They could only made 30 -personally handmade- jeans during the event and I was one of the lucky ones.
You could choose between three different denim fabrics, from light weight to heavy. I picked the heavy one, 14oz right hand dark blue with red line selvage. The next step was picking you favo colour thread, which for me was a combination from blue and red as a reference to Holland and the Amsterdam red light district. Step three was about the right shape of your backpocket. The backpockets are lined with canvas which has an all-over print with the logo’s; Candiani, Jean School and Amfi. They also used the printed canvas for the inner pockets. For step 4, the buttons, I made a kind of a small tribute to one of my favourite Levi’s 501 fits, the 1944 model which has unbranded different buttons as all major manufacturers in World War 2 has to skip unnecessary parts to save them. The four different buttons in my handmade pair is a kind of homage to that period. The top button is the one from the Amsterdam based Jean School, as I am very proud of this first jeans education! For the rivets I picked rusty brown ones to give the jean an authentic look. And to make the jean totally complete I had to go for the indigo leather patch of course! The block from the jeans is a classic one and I made the leggs a little bit more tapered, about a 19 cm hem. The hem is also chainstiched with red thread inside.
All in all this special handmade jeans is one of the only thirty 100% made in Amsterdam jeans. This is something very special and unique! Very proud to have these in my private collection. Many thanks again for this great opportunity and for the high quality handmade personal jeans. You guys did a perfect job together. Again a big bravo! Check my jeans here below. There are more nice details included, for example, a sixth coin/watch pocket made of selvage quality, which I didn’t mentioned here above, but check it out for yourself.
One of the highlights last April during the second edition of the Amsterdam Denim Days – Blueprint event was the collaboration between the Italian Candiani denim mill, Jean School / House of Denim and fashion institute Amfi. They collaborated to make live the best pair of jeans you’ve ever seen! The first 100% made in Amsterdam selvage jeans. Something for the denim history books.
The fabric was made live on an old Picanol shuttle loom from the ’50′s. The sound of the loom was magical!The Italian Candiani mill (started in 1938) is the only mill in Europe which still weaves on a day to day basis with these small, machine looms, which drove the first denim boom in the Western world. The result in a unique denim quality.
During the event these three partners could only create 30 of these exclusive custom jeans. So only for a few lucky bastards. Candiani made the denim fabric live and the students from Jean School and Amfi created the personal made jeans on the spot. You could choose your own fit, fabric and weight, buttons, rivets, pockets, patch, colour of thread, etc. This was heaven for every denimhead. I was honoured to be one of those lucky selected people.
The Picanol shuttle loom from the ’50′s.
The pop-up atelier were they made live on the spot your personal handmade jeans.
Tomorrow I will show you my personal handmade jeans which is 100% made in Amsterdam. So cool and proud to have one in my private collection. Big bravo for this great initiative! Keep up the good work guys!
Got my hands on this really nice and heavy worn original vintage Lee Jeans 101-J (Jacket) from the ’50′s. It’s the popular Rider jacket which was introduced in 1931. It was a slim denim jacket made for cowboys. The Rider jacket has some features for cowboys like the inward breast pockets which made it easier for them to reach inside the pocket with the opposite hand, especially when riding a horse. It also has a wider waistband for a better fit making sure the jacket didn’t fold upwards. On the back you see the famous cat-eye buttons.
My jacket has the red/yellow neck label which refers to the ’50′s. This label was made from 1955 to 1962. The start of the cool rock & roll era. It’s completely faded and worn-out. In these times they stitched clothing with cotton thread and over wearing the thread broke at several places. That’s why you see lots of old denim pieces are broken onto the sleeves and at the front and the back. Later they develop cotton thread combined with polyester which is much stronger. The jacket is a nice denim history addition in my private collection. Check the jacket here below!
Denim.Lab is founded by Sander van de Vecht from Holland. After working for several denim brands Sander decided to choose his own denim road. He’s active in the denim industry for many years and is very experienced. He put all his knowledge in Denim.Lab and develops denim collections as private label for several big chain stores in Holland and also for denim brands. His showroom / office is something really cool. It’s the ultimate surrounding for every denimhead. Filled with the most beautiful selvage qualities from all over the world. I like the industrial look combined with the clean walls. Sander is also working with Denim.Lab as a seperate denim label. Recently I got a regular tapered from his collection. The jean is made from 13.5oz right hand deadstock rigid selvage quality. Straight classic fit with some nice features like the leather patch (from Italy), the old school rivets, the fully lined inside yoke and inside pockets with chambray. Also the backpockets are lined! The coin pocket has a selvage as well. And what it makes really outstanding is that the jean is packed in a cotton bag. All in all a perfect product! Something to check it our for yourself on his website. Thanks Sander and keep up the good work!
Received some pics from my buddy Wouter Reimert from Vif Jeans (www.vifjeans.nl) - Rijssen (NL) from a nice worn-out Homage to Lee Jeans by Evisu Jeans. Their customer Erik Meijer is wearing this beauty for a lot of years already. The jean has a really nice vintage fading pattern. Well done Erik!
Owner: Erik Meijer from Wierden, Holland
Brand: Evisu Jeans – Homage to Lee Jeans (Part of the Homage to Levi’s – Lee & Wrangler Jeans collection)
Farmtown Denim is a one-woman (!) brand from Sacramento, California – USA. It’s not common to see a denim brand founded by a woman. Great to see this initiative! Farmtown Denim was founded by Melissa Farmer. She had the idea that with enough time and effort, anything can be possible. Her first product was a jeans, but now she’s making a lot of cool small denim products, and also from natural tanned leather. The products are bow ties, bracelets, totebags, watch straps, etc. All the products are available on her site and are made entirely by hand by Melissa in her little workshop.
The latest addition in my private collection is this deadstock Wrangler Blue Bell reproduction Champion Jacket. The Champion jackets are special items, even the re-productions are not very easy to find anymore. Since a couple of years Wrangler unfortunately stopped producing this special premium Blue Bell line. The first jacket produced by Wrangler was in 1948. The same model as this reproduction, with buttons on the front (but without the embroidery on the back). These buttons appear until 1950, when the buttons were replaced by a zip front.
The original rodeo jackets were made for the best rodeo riders, so it wasn’t a piece in the regular collection. This also explains why these original jackets are really hard to find and very rare. True collectors items. My latest treasure has never worn, and also has the great moments comic book included.