Old denim jackets with a customized back panel are my favorites. In the ’60′s and ’70′s a lot of bikers and hippies started to make this trend because they wanted to express themselves or they wanted to show their membership from a club. But also commercial companies did this personalisation on the back of jackets as workwear garments for their employees. This particular Lee Jeans Rider jacket from the ’70′s is in my private collection for a while and it has a nice chain stitched back. The jacket is made from a left hand fabric which feels very soft because it’s washed a lot during the years by the pre-owner(s). Check out this ‘Blue Ridge Pool Service’ jacket.
Dumluck is a one man show denim brand by Kenley Chittick from Holland. Kenley just released his new collection called The Third. The whole collection is made by hand using industrial vintage machines. One of the best parts of the brand is that he only use deadstock fabrics from the best mills like Cone Mills from the U.S. and Kuroki from Japan. In his Third collection he added some great new styles like several denim jackets, shirts (also an extra long selvage denim shirt called Act S, really nice!) and of course denims. Kenley combines authentic craftmanships and new silhouettes which give a new look and feel. Well done Kenley and congrats! Check below some images from his Third collection.
Recently I got my hands on this Lee Jeans ‘Farmers Fair’ Rider jacket. This jacket is a re-production of the original from the fifties. On the farmers fair in the U.S. in 1957 they reached out a denim jacket to the best farmer of that year. The best farmer was M.U. Aggies, his name is embroidered on the front of the jacket. On the back there’s a beautiful horseshoe with the date of the fair. It was the 52nd fair. The jacket is Union Made with a left hand non-selvage fabric. The original jacket, what was the inspiration of this repro, was found in Italy. Can you imagine what a nice story this is how the jacket came in Italy from a farmer from the U.S. Guess we will never know. Anyway, I’m glad with this item in my private collection. Lee on his best!
Black Rabbit is a fresh new brand and it looks damn good. I know the people behind this brand have a lot of experience in the fashion industry, and this is what you see in their products. All of them are worked out with a lot of details, great fabrics and fits. One of my personal favourites it this Talos jacket. The jacket features a detachable hood with a storm-flap which can be deployed forward or folded back. The garment is lined with wool blanket with special cutouts below the armholes to reduce bulk and augment ventilation. The lower edge of the lining is free, which aids in drying out when wet. Details include the following: a double belt, front closure using twin over-size hooks, cuff regulators, hidden pocket-flap plackets, extra wide twin-needle stitching and a shaping-dart at the throat. All in all a killer jacket. Check the site of Black Rabbit as it is online since a couple of days!
Levi’s Vintage Clothing made a nice iconic denim jacket with Cone Mills selvage fabric. The 1878 Triple Pleated Blouse Rooftop is extremely worn in and has repaired by hand. Years of wear and work in the outdoors creates rich layers of indigo tones and variances. Rusted buttons, hand repaired and replaced cuffs and waistband. A true piece of denim art! Well done Levi’s.
Available here: www.caliroots.com
During the Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven – NL I did a denim expo project for Lois Jeans. The project was in collaboration with Jean School from Amsterdam. We showed some innovative denim items made by the students and besides that we also showed some original vintage Lois Jeans items from the ’70′s. Below some pictures of the highlighted items which came over from Spain – Valencia, Lois Jeans Headquaters.
Lois Jeans was established in 1962 in Valencia – Spain. The brand was founded by a close family which is still running this authentic brand. In the ’70′s Lois Jeans conquered the world as one of the first European denim brands. The brand was very popular by icons as ABBA, Johan Cruyff, James Hunt and Bjorn Borg.
One of their most famous items is the Torera denim jacket for men, for women it’s the Tejana. The Torera jacket was worn by teen celebrities during the ’70′s. The jacket became a true icon of a manufacturing error. The sleeves were slightly longer than usual, so people like Bjorn Borg wore the jacket with rolled up sleeves. That’s why this jacket also got the name Monkey Jacket. A true and cool story!
Last week I had the chance to take some pics from an original Lois Jeans Monkey Sleeve Jacket. It’s a vintage jacket from the ’70′s, on the pics you can see that the jacket is worn a lot. The sleeves shows some really nice natural honey combs and you can also see that this was one of those wrong manufactured items. The jacket shows some nice different shades of blue, which only appears on vintage items. You can see this jacket, and many other old Lois originals, in an exhibition at the Lois Denim store in Eindhoven – NL. The expo is part of the Dutch Design Week and is running till this Sunday. Great to see that the bull is back!
Corduroy jackets are timeless classics and this jacket from FHB is one of those. These jackets are from origin workerwear jackets, worn by coal farmers, gardeners and garbage men. Nowadays still in use by roofers and carpenters in Germany.
The jacket has a double button, three buttons, a chest pocket and two outside pockets, two inside pockets and lapel collars. My favourite is the colour black, it will fade very nice at the elbows with wearing. Online store Warenmagazijn stock them, check it out.
Available here: www.warenmagazijn.me
Part 2 of the vintage little Levi’s Jeans ‘cowboy set’ from the ’80′s. The jacket is Levi’s famous trucker jacket but in a kids version with snap buttons and fake breast pockets. Also the cuffs from the sleeves are with snap buttons to close and open it easily. The jacket has an orange tab on the pocket, made from right hand non-selvage fabric. Check in the previous post the jean of this set. This denim suit makes every kid a true American cowboy!
Natural indigo is one of the oldest methods of bringing colour to clothes. Dutch denim brand K.O.I. (Kings Of Indigo) uses the Indigofera Tincoria plant for the coloring of their garments and for the dye process the brand works together with a company based in India. They dye in the purest form: the fabric is soaked in water for between 1 and 3 days, and then the fabric is dipped in natural indigo 4 times. With this technique you will get the most deep natural indigo tone. K.O.I. made several items this collection using this authentic method, the worker jacket ‘Jonathan’ made of 18oz canvas fabric is one of the iconic pieces. The colour came out really nice!
Available at Peter Christ Middelburg – NL:
I have an addiction for vintage denim jackets and recently I could add this Levi’s Jeans ‘Big E’ Trucker jacket type 3 in my collection. The jacket is Made in Macau, what is interesting because most of the jackets in that time for Levi’s were produced in U.S.A. Someone told me that these jackets were made for the Canadian market and someone else told me a funny quote that a lot of sellers cut out the white Made in Macau label as the most buyers of vintage Levi’s items what to buy the U.S. productions. The U.S. productions have the digits 5XX (521, 524, 525, 526, etc.) on the back of the buttons, but this one has the number 350. This refers also to Macau.
Anyway, the jacket looks extremely cool with all the old biker patches from the ’70′s. I really love old denim jackets which are made personal or the total worn-out versions. Check my latest vintage found here below.
It’s already twelve years ago that Atelier LaDurance was launched in the stores. The brand was founded by Gerard Backx. ALD were premium denim items full of great details and super Japanese quality! Next to the amazing products the branding was extremely good! All done by true craftsman Boy Bastiaens (www.stormhand.com) from Maastricht – NL. He’s responsible for the whole creative identity of this brand. One of the best ideas from Boy was to make a simple connection to France (in the beginning the collections were made in France!) and to men and women, he came with the idea to make the inner pockets with a fabric refering to the French jam jars. So for men it’s blue with white and women red with white. Also the repairkit bullet delivered with every item was amazing. Besides that the all over branding was something new, something different. The total look and especially the fits from ALD had a link to workwear from the ’40′s and ’50′s.
A while ago I got my hands on this deadstock Atelier LaDurance Prescott workwear jacket made of 11oz Japanese raw fabric. I already have one in my collection, but that one is already washed one time. Check the jacket here below for all the great details from the great denim brand which unfortunately isn’t available anymore.
My latest vintage found is this Levi’s type 3 trucker jeans jacket from the ’70′s. The jacket is patched by the previous owener who was a biker from a motorcycle club from the U.S.A. It seems that his favourite motorcycle brand was Honda. The jacket has a typically seventies look and feel, also the button digits, 52, refers to this period. Besides that the jacket has all the old detail features. The red tab is small e, so it’s produced after 1971. As my favourite denim jackets are always patched this one is a good addition in my private collection. Perfect combination, bikes and denim!
Recently I received this nice ‘Amsterdenim’ workwear jacket from founder Ben Fokkema. Ben gave me last year the first jacket ever made for my private collection and now I received his latest raw denim jacket. The jacket is inspired by the workers from the U.S.A. a model which is also adopted by a lot of Japanese people. As always Ben added a lot of great ‘hidden’ details in the jacket like the special buttons with all the Amsterdenim letters, longs cuffs, canvas printed inner yoke, and name embroidery on the back which become more visible after wearing. The jacket got a brilliant Dutch name called Johnny and is made in Italy. Check out his website which is launced lately. Ben, big thanks for this jacket which has an amazing fit! Keep building on your denim dreams. Till soon!
Check out this worn-out ‘Eat Dust’ denim jacket. Jacket is worn by Leon van Bloem, working at VIF Jeans store in Holland. Jacket is worn for almost 2 years without washing. Go for the next 2 years Leon!
- Owner: Leon van Bloem. Working at Vif Jeans Store in Rijssen, Holland (www.vifjeans.nl)
- Brand: Eat Dust jacket 673, 13.25oz double ring Japanese blue selvage
- Age: 1.5 – 2 years
- Treatment: No wash
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This Evisu denim jacket with lot nr. 3641 is from my private collection and is about 10 years old. The jacket is inspired on the famous Levi’s Jeans Type 2 trucker jacket, original 507XX, introduced around 1953. Inside of the jacket there is a nice plain and red selvage. The sleeves has a nice worn pattern. But what makes this jacket really special are the embroidered pockets, with the Evisu seagull logo. Check it out.
Again my ‘Eat Dust’ buddies Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco from Antwerp dropped a really cool new Fall Winter 2014 – 2015 collection called: A few good men! This collection is absolutely next level, very inspiring to see their development every season! My personal favourite is the army p*ssy camo poncho. Great job boys. Cheers, one for the road!
This Wrangler ‘Blue Bell’ jacket 8MZ is my latest vintage found. This jacket was introduced in 1951 as the second edition Wrangler jacket included a zipper. It’s made of 8oz left hand denim, the feeling is extremely soft! It features golden/yellow selvage behind the zipper, elastic side details, sleeve vents, one breast pocket and two hip pockets.
The previous owner wore this jacket a lot as the denim is faded completely, a lot of holes and damages and the jacket also got some several chlorine spots. A true nice piece of a worn-out denim item. Perfect addition in my private collection!
Lee Jeans celebrates their 125 years this year. For this anniversary they developed several different items with some highend fashion designers as special projects. The idea of these special projects was to re-imagine their most popular fits and finishes. The all star line up from the designers are Donwan Harrell, Emma Francois, Orjan Andersson and design trio Sarah and Carol Prion and Gregory Derkenne. Below some sneak pics of items to celebrate this milestone. Happy birthday Lee Jeans!