Most of the people who follow my daily blog knows that I have a crush on old denim jackets. I’m always on the look out for some rare and cool vintage stuff to add to my private collection. Besides having an addiction for old embroidered Levi’s Big E jackets I have a weak for the best line ever made by the Italian denim company Diesel, their ‘Old Glory’ collection. Diesel Jeans was my first entry in the denim scene more than 20 years ago. I worked there for 6 years. Those were crazy times as Diesel became very popular worldwide. The ‘Old Glory’ line was something new in that time and very special. Diesel created a line with an authentic workwear inspired feeling. I always kept those special ‘OG’ items because they are special for me because they reminds me of my first steps into the blue indigo world. My ‘OG’ collection is pretty big but I’m still missing some pieces from this particular line. Every now and then I spot some of these vintage treasures and add them to my collection. Last week I got my hands on the ‘Morgan’ jacket from 1993. I already have this one in two other colours, black and green, but this ecru version was a good find. I know this particular jacket was also made in denim fabric and in brown. So still two to go for this one. Maybe I can add them too in my collection one day. But for now I’m very happy with this one, Only the Brave!
Nudie Jeans made a biker jacket made with black, coated denim. As I personally prefer blue indigo denim fabrics, this coated black denim is something different. The coated denim gives a leather feeling. A new development in the denim industry. The jacket features all the classic hallmarks of the classics, from the offcentre zip fastening to the wide notch lapels and the three zip front-pockets and a flapped one. As you wear this jacket it will get great worn in effects and the coating will get an almost leatherlike look. Looking forward to see a worn-out one which is aged. Great jacket for the punk look!
Deadstock Resurrection is a new denim brand founded by Peter Overbeek (NL). The first items are just finished and I can tell you that these are looking very nice. Especially the Robert Trucker Jacket. The jacket is made of 15.5oz beautiful sugar cane denim from the Nihon Menpu Mills in Japan. The fabric is made out of sugar cane. The jacket is a tailored slim fit, has iconic double pleats on the front fastened with signature bartacks. The two-prong shank button and pierced through rivet construction in combination with the heavy yarn for the triple needle stitching gives the jacket extra strong durability. Their genuine brown leather logo burned inside patch, big inside print, signature crossbones embroidery, selvedge placket and chest pocket details gives it the authentic Deadstock Resurrection feeling. All in all a perfect jacket. I saw Peter wearing a worn-in sample of the jacket and the fabric age very nice! It has different shades of blue which is very cool! Check the jacket here below, it’s available now. Good luck Peter!
Swedish clothing brand Sarva made an indigo waistcoat which is made with natural indigo dyed fabric. Everything is handmade from weaving and dyeing to printing. The print is done hand. Curious how? The stencils are carved by hand in wood or on heavy paper. Then a mix of soya bean flour and slaked lime is applied through the openings of the stencil onto the white pure cotton cloth. When dry, the fabric is dipped numerous times into large tubs containing the natural indigo dye which is extracted from plants in the area. After the desired color is achieved and the fabric has dried, the paste is scraped off, revealing the white patterns on the now blue indigo dyed cotton fabric. Great isn’t it! Authentic workmanship it is.
Spotted this nice vintage Levi’s BigE Jeans 507XX (Type 2) biker jacket on Ebay. It has some great patches on it. A true hardcore biker jacket from the ’50′s. Take your chance to add it to your collection. Not cheap, it’s for sale for $1.500,-
The Sakol Project is a project to promote a natural indigo dyed fabric from SSAP founder & designer home country, Thailand. Sakol is short from Sakolnakorn, a province in Northeast of Thailand. This northern province in Thailand is best known for it’s indigo blue fabrics. Villagers still use centuries-old weaving and dyeing techniques that continue a long tradition of quality. In the video here below you can see how they do the whole process by hand: spinning, indigo dyeing and weaving. Indigo craftsmanship!
Another killer jacket from my private denim collection is this Levi’s 507XX (Type 2) Big E Jeans Jacket from the ’50′s. The sleeves were cut-off by the previous owner, guess he (or she as it is a very small size) was a biker back in the days. Check also the cool vintage biker pins on the jacket. The jacket is washed very often as the colour is light blue with some brown dirt on it. Very nice natural washing! This jacket is very poluar among collectors as the originals are hard to find. These are one of my personal favo’s too. Pure Americana feeling!
Years ago I bought this vintage Lee Jeans Rider jacket from the ’70′s. The jacket itself has a great worn-out look. I love the different blue shades. The patches aren’t from the ’70′s, they must be added not so long ago when I bought it as these are in perfect new condition. All in all a great jacket, named it Blue Eagle.
Each season Denham Jeans reaches out to world-class artisans, designers and fabric developers to create collaborative expressions. For FW15 the inspiration is ‘Indigo Nomads’ and the highlight in the indigo range is the Re-Cut Kendo Coat featuring dead stock military blankets that have been soaked in blue. The result is a really nice and unique coat with different kind of blue shades. Well done Denham crew!
One of my treasures from my private denim archive is this original vintage Levi’s Jeans 507XX (also known as Type 2) jacket. The jacket is from the ’50′s. It was introduced in 1953 as the follow up from the 506XX (Type 1) jacket. On the 507XX jacket was a second breast pocket added with bar tacks instead of rivets. The jacket got the famous BigE red tab. All vintage Levi’s items with a red tab (the red tab was introduced in 1936) made before 1971 have the BigE tab instead of a small e. These BigE red tabs are the valuable items to collect. This jacket was only made till 1962 when the follow up came: 557XX (Type 3) jacket. The 557XX is Levi’s most famous jacket, it has the pointed pocket flaps. The 507XX has selvage in the inside which dissapear at the 557XX jack. The buttons are showing a lot of patina. The back of the buttons are stamped with number 17.
My 507XX jacket is in totally worn-out condition, that’s how I like them the most. It shows different blue indigo shades. A perfect jacket with a lot of history! It came out in the time that the Rock & Roll era started. Check it out!
I have a kind of weakness for denim jackets. Especially when they are patched or natural destroyed with wear, but sometimes you come across vintage items which are amazing by themselves. This is one of them. I already have a lot of Lee Jeans Riders jackets from the ’60′s and ’70′s but this one is an original 101-J from the ’50′s. Not so long ago I already scored another one from this period, but that one is totally washed out and destroyed with time by the previous owner(s). The new 101-J is in great condition, it has a perfect blue colour and the golden / red neck label is still excellent! Old Lee jackets in these mint condition are hard to find. Great to add this one in my private collection!
Check here my other worn-out Lee 101-J jacket from the ’50′s:
While the summer finally kicks in and the trade shows are on full force right now the Amsterdam based denim brand Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.) launched their new Spring Summer 2016 collection at several fairs. Their new collection has some great international influences from Japan and the U.S. You can also see that in their logo where the American cowboy is riding a Japanse koi carper. The SS16 collection has inspirations from authentic workwear, marine stripes, Japanese sashiko stitching, and seventies patch-up customized items. The link in the whole collection is of course the indigo blue colour. As I said before, the 2015 summer kicks in, but prepare yourself for the summer of 2016! Well done guys!
Came across this beauty on Ebay, Lee Jeans 101-J Rider jacket from the ’50′s. The jacket has the yellow/red tag which refers to the beginning of the ’50′s. It’s from the same period as the Levi’s 507XX jacket. This Lee jacket has an amazing embroidery on the back. The auction is opened at $ 3.499. Although this is a great jacket, this is way to high for me to place a bid, but it’s damn cool! One of the best I have seen. Check the great jacket here below.
Check the jacket here:
One my latest denim treasures is this vintage denim Powrhouse jacket from the late ’50′s or begin of the ’60′s. The jacket was sold exclusively sold through the Montgomery Ward retail chain in the U.S.A. Montgomery Ward is a department store retailer, which operated between 1872 and 2000. The jacket had original sleeves but they are cut off by their previous owner. The model of the jacket is inspired by the 507XX – Type 2 – jacket from Levi’s Jeans which came out in 1953. In those times you saw a lot of workwear brands with references to the leader in the market, Levi’s. The Powr House jacket is made with a non-selvage right hand fabric and has the 101 buttons. It has a great vintage washed out look. Check it out here below.
Got my hands on this really nice and heavy worn original vintage Lee Jeans 101-J (Jacket) from the ’50′s. It’s the popular Rider jacket which was introduced in 1931. It was a slim denim jacket made for cowboys. The Rider jacket has some features for cowboys like the inward breast pockets which made it easier for them to reach inside the pocket with the opposite hand, especially when riding a horse. It also has a wider waistband for a better fit making sure the jacket didn’t fold upwards. On the back you see the famous cat-eye buttons.
My jacket has the red/yellow neck label which refers to the ’50′s. This label was made from 1955 to 1962. The start of the cool rock & roll era. It’s completely faded and worn-out. In these times they stitched clothing with cotton thread and over wearing the thread broke at several places. That’s why you see lots of old denim pieces are broken onto the sleeves and at the front and the back. Later they develop cotton thread combined with polyester which is much stronger. The jacket is a nice denim history addition in my private collection. Check the jacket here below!
The latest addition in my private collection is this deadstock Wrangler Blue Bell reproduction Champion Jacket. The Champion jackets are special items, even the re-productions are not very easy to find anymore. Since a couple of years Wrangler unfortunately stopped producing this special premium Blue Bell line. The first jacket produced by Wrangler was in 1948. The same model as this reproduction, with buttons on the front (but without the embroidery on the back). These buttons appear until 1950, when the buttons were replaced by a zip front.
The original rodeo jackets were made for the best rodeo riders, so it wasn’t a piece in the regular collection. This also explains why these original jackets are really hard to find and very rare. True collectors items. My latest treasure has never worn, and also has the great moments comic book included.
Since last week the denim industry has a new denim mill. The official kick-off from this new handmade selvage denim fabric took place at the Kingpins fair in Amsterdam. The fabric is totally made by hand, handspun and handwoven, which is pretty rare. I am very exited about this new fabric as I work as a consultant for them. The Kingpins fair was the moment that all the buyers, designers and media saw this unique and traditional made fabric for the very first time. The fabrics are all made by hand in India. The threads are dyed with natural indigo and woven on old authentic wooden shuttle looms. The result is the best of the best with beautiful indigo colours. True heaven for every denimhead. One of the best parts is that the selvage is made with real silver and gold which come from old Indian sarees. The kick-off was a huge success!
The first Seven Senses collections contains are variety of several different shades of blue. Even a green fabric was added to the collection. The different types of blue depends how often the threads got in contact with the indigo. To promote the fabrics on a right way we asked two successful denim designers to make a piece of the first light coloured fabric. The collaborated designers are Paul Kruize (Paul Kruize Jeans) from Holland and Mohsin Sajid (Endrime) from the UK. Paul made a great jacket and Mohsin an amazing pair of jeans. Both made of heavy woven fabric which is uncommon in the denim industry. The result shows something new and fresh. Below the booth from Seven Senses at the Kingspins fair and the two promotional items. Keep an eye on this revolutionary denim fabric! Congrats with the launch Seven Senses crew!
The jacket made by denim designer Paul Kruize
The jacket made by denim designer Mohsin Sajid
Around 1848 the famous ”California Gold Rush” started. A lot of farmers left their farm in order to get a better life by finding gold in the mines. But in the early ’50′s they didn’t find any gold anymore. This was a true disaster for everybody as they gave up their old living. Some of them returned back to their farm. But soon their was some good news as they discovered something new in the Nevada mines. Silver, a lot of silver.
This is the beginning of the denim story as the miners needed some strong pants to work in. In the beginning they called these pants, Overalls, which later in the 1930′s became legendary as Jeans. Read the full story in the recently released new denim book: True Fit (http://truefitdenim.com) by Viktor Fredback and Fredrik Ottosson. A must have for everybody who’s interested in denim.
Deadstock Resurrection is a new initiative from Peter Overbeek from Holland. DR will be the new kid in de denim-clothing industry with references to bikes, tattoo and authentic denim. Their philosophy is to re-use, re-claim and re-construct. They approach is creating new, one-off designs that transform surplus fabric and apparel. Apparel stocks from around the world. Their extensive global network sources small quantities of high-quality apparel and fabrics. These surplus stocks would be discarded so by reviving them they are helping to preserve the world’s precious resources. Eveything will be handcrafted in the Netherlands. Each design transformation is produced by hand in limited editions, never to be repeated. Their workshop in the Netherlands customized apparel labels, artworks, prints, patterns, trimmings and the details by hand. This gives each garment a rich and distinctive character, and exclusivity is guaranteed.
During the Amsterdam Denim Days they will officialy launch their brand at the denim Flea Market. Below some sneak images to give you a small insight from their first collection. Look out for Deadstock Resurrection!