Since last week the denim industry has a new denim mill. The official kick-off from this new handmade selvage denim fabric took place at the Kingpins fair in Amsterdam. The fabric is totally made by hand, handspun and handwoven, which is pretty rare. I am very exited about this new fabric as I work as a consultant for them. The Kingpins fair was the moment that all the buyers, designers and media saw this unique and traditional made fabric for the very first time. The fabrics are all made by hand in India. The threads are dyed with natural indigo and woven on old authentic wooden shuttle looms. The result is the best of the best with beautiful indigo colours. True heaven for every denimhead. One of the best parts is that the selvage is made with real silver and gold which come from old Indian sarees. The kick-off was a huge success!
The first Seven Senses collections contains are variety of several different shades of blue. Even a green fabric was added to the collection. The different types of blue depends how often the threads got in contact with the indigo. To promote the fabrics on a right way we asked two successful denim designers to make a piece of the first light coloured fabric. The collaborated designers are Paul Kruize (Paul Kruize Jeans) from Holland and Mohsin Sajid (Endrime) from the UK. Paul made a great jacket and Mohsin an amazing pair of jeans. Both made of heavy woven fabric which is uncommon in the denim industry. The result shows something new and fresh. Below the booth from Seven Senses at the Kingspins fair and the two promotional items. Keep an eye on this revolutionary denim fabric! Congrats with the launch Seven Senses crew!
The jacket made by denim designer Paul Kruize
The jacket made by denim designer Mohsin Sajid
Eat Dust just launched their latest new products on their site. The core of the brand is jeans, but they also develop really cool tops. For Spring / Summer they come with new additions in their collection t-shirts, shirts, sweats and the long awaited Riders denim jacket. Especially the the denim jacket is my favourite. Check for the full line-up their site.
When Dutch denim brand Atelier LaDurance entered the jeans market in 2002 they did something totally different than the rest. Their workwear inspired silhouettes from the ’40′s and ’50′s were classic and authentic. What the brand made distinctive was the branding, done by graphic designer Boy Bastiaens. Boy gave the brand an unique feel, something I still admire from his long and successful career. As I have a lot of the ALD styles in my private collection, I recently got my hands on this deadstock kids jacket. It’s the Novelty Jacket, a workwear blazer made from hickory stripe fabric. When I saw this jacket I got the same feeling as back in 2002 when Gerard Backx launched his brand. Still a pity that the brand isn’t there anymore…But this jacket is waiting for my little girl when she’s a little bit older. She can wear it perfectly with an original Levi’s Big E red line selvage jeans.
Blue Blanket, founded by denim expert Antonio di Battista, is launching every now and then a new item to his collection. As always it’s made from the best and highest quality available. This time he added a classic waist coat made with the following details;
- Japanese striped denim 12oz.
- 20′s style pocket design.
- Fish eye buttons in real corozo.
- Chambraix linings.
- Shuttle loom care label made in Japan.
Made some detail shots from one of my vintage Levi’s Jeans BigE jackets from the 60′s. It’s a Trucker Type 3 jacket which has a great worn-out look, especially the collar and cuffs turned out nice. The jacket has buttons with digit 525 which refers to productions from the ’60”s. Jacket is made in U.S.A.
The great webshop Toile de Chine from Roos Dijkstra is filled with vintage treasures. She collected an amazing collection through the years as she travelled a lot for her design jobs. One of these treasures is this absolutely beautiful French firemans jacket from the 19th century. Very deep but intense blue indigo colour that shows some fading on the sleeves but still wearable. Signs of wear are visible on the collar and there’s a repair on the back but that makes this jacket even more nicer. Great herringbone linen fabric and all buttons are original. Check out her Toile de Chine webshop for more rare vintage stuff.
One of the best denim jackets ever made are the Wrangler Blue Bell Champion jackets. These jackets are also known as Promo jackets. This history about these jackets is really cool. They were made in the late ’40′s and ’50′s for the rodeo champions to promote the Wrangler brand. Rodeo events were very popular in those times. It was a clever way from Wrangler to use these heroes as living advertising boards. These rodeo jackets were specially made for them, so it wasn’t a piece in the regular collection. This also explains why these original jackets are really hard to find and very rare. True collectors items.
Wrangler Jeans also known as one of the Big 3 denim brands. The other two brands are Levi’s and Lee Jeans. The Wrangler name came from cowboys who worked with horses for their living. In 1947 Wrangler changed their name from Blue Bell into Wrangler for their cowboy oriented line.
The Champion jackets are special items, even the re-productions are not very easy to find anymore. Since a couple of years Wrangler unfortunately stopped producing this special premium Blue Bell line. My Wrangler Blue Bell 11MJ Champion jacket is a replica from 1956. This is the first jacket produced by Wrangler in 1948. It has a button front until 1950, when the buttons were replaced by a zip front.
The jacket featured vents on the back of the shoulders seams that were held in place by elastic strips on the side. It was tailored to give a tighter fit and still allow free movement.
The jacket is made of left hand golden selvage fabric.
And it has the famous Wrangler Jeans, Shirts and Jackets advertsing embroidery on the back.
Old denim jackets with a customized back panel are my favorites. In the ’60′s and ’70′s a lot of bikers and hippies started to make this trend because they wanted to express themselves or they wanted to show their membership from a club. But also commercial companies did this personalisation on the back of jackets as workwear garments for their employees. This particular Lee Jeans Rider jacket from the ’70′s is in my private collection for a while and it has a nice chain stitched back. The jacket is made from a left hand fabric which feels very soft because it’s washed a lot during the years by the pre-owner(s). Check out this ‘Blue Ridge Pool Service’ jacket.
Recently I got my hands on this Lee Jeans ‘Farmers Fair’ Rider jacket. This jacket is a re-production of the original from the fifties. On the farmers fair in the U.S. in 1957 they reached out a denim jacket to the best farmer of that year. The best farmer was M.U. Aggies, his name is embroidered on the front of the jacket. On the back there’s a beautiful horseshoe with the date of the fair. It was the 52nd fair. The jacket is Union Made with a left hand non-selvage fabric. The original jacket, what was the inspiration of this repro, was found in Italy. Can you imagine what a nice story this is how the jacket came in Italy from a farmer from the U.S. Guess we will never know. Anyway, I’m glad with this item in my private collection. Lee on his best!
Black Rabbit is a fresh new brand and it looks damn good. I know the people behind this brand have a lot of experience in the fashion industry, and this is what you see in their products. All of them are worked out with a lot of details, great fabrics and fits. One of my personal favourites it this Talos jacket. The jacket features a detachable hood with a storm-flap which can be deployed forward or folded back. The garment is lined with wool blanket with special cutouts below the armholes to reduce bulk and augment ventilation. The lower edge of the lining is free, which aids in drying out when wet. Details include the following: a double belt, front closure using twin over-size hooks, cuff regulators, hidden pocket-flap plackets, extra wide twin-needle stitching and a shaping-dart at the throat. All in all a killer jacket. Check the site of Black Rabbit as it is online since a couple of days!
Levi’s Vintage Clothing made a nice iconic denim jacket with Cone Mills selvage fabric. The 1878 Triple Pleated Blouse Rooftop is extremely worn in and has repaired by hand. Years of wear and work in the outdoors creates rich layers of indigo tones and variances. Rusted buttons, hand repaired and replaced cuffs and waistband. A true piece of denim art! Well done Levi’s.
Available here: www.caliroots.com
During the Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven – NL I did a denim expo project for Lois Jeans. The project was in collaboration with Jean School from Amsterdam. We showed some innovative denim items made by the students and besides that we also showed some original vintage Lois Jeans items from the ’70′s. Below some pictures of the highlighted items which came over from Spain – Valencia, Lois Jeans Headquaters.
Lois Jeans was established in 1962 in Valencia – Spain. The brand was founded by a close family which is still running this authentic brand. In the ’70′s Lois Jeans conquered the world as one of the first European denim brands. The brand was very popular by icons as ABBA, Johan Cruyff, James Hunt and Bjorn Borg.
One of their most famous items is the Torera denim jacket for men, for women it’s the Tejana. The Torera jacket was worn by teen celebrities during the ’70′s. The jacket became a true icon of a manufacturing error. The sleeves were slightly longer than usual, so people like Bjorn Borg wore the jacket with rolled up sleeves. That’s why this jacket also got the name Monkey Jacket. A true and cool story!
Last week I had the chance to take some pics from an original Lois Jeans Monkey Sleeve Jacket. It’s a vintage jacket from the ’70′s, on the pics you can see that the jacket is worn a lot. The sleeves shows some really nice natural honey combs and you can also see that this was one of those wrong manufactured items. The jacket shows some nice different shades of blue, which only appears on vintage items. You can see this jacket, and many other old Lois originals, in an exhibition at the Lois Denim store in Eindhoven – NL. The expo is part of the Dutch Design Week and is running till this Sunday. Great to see that the bull is back!
Corduroy jackets are timeless classics and this jacket from FHB is one of those. These jackets are from origin workerwear jackets, worn by coal farmers, gardeners and garbage men. Nowadays still in use by roofers and carpenters in Germany.
The jacket has a double button, three buttons, a chest pocket and two outside pockets, two inside pockets and lapel collars. My favourite is the colour black, it will fade very nice at the elbows with wearing. Online store Warenmagazijn stock them, check it out.
Available here: www.warenmagazijn.me