Two weeks ago I spoke with Bahzad Trinos and Risa Saito from Naked & Famous from Canada. The people from Naked & Famous are true denim doctors as they always create something really unique, something very special. Also this time they showed me some treasures at the Seek trade show in Berlin. Their collection contains to many specials to show them all, so I highlight 3 of them. It was good to see you again, good luck with the sales and speak soon!
Bahzad Trinos & Risa Saito
Naked & Famous: Green tea denim
For this jeans they dipped the threads in green Japanese tea which gave a very nice green look. The jeans is made with green selvage and a green suede patch.
Naked & Famous: Blue white red jeans
For this jeans they twisted the weft with blue, white and red threads to create a nice blend of colours. A lot of country flags contains these colours, so almost everyone would feel a connection with this one. Also the selvage is made of these three colours.
Naked & Famous: X-Mas jeans
Although it’s Summer right now, here’s some X-Mas jeans. The jeans has selvage with the X-Mas colours, green and red. The patch of the jeans is made of natural vegetable tanned leather with an awesome design. Perfect X-Mas gift.
The Dutch G-Star brand was started in 1989 under the name Gapstar as a new denim initiative. A few years after their kick-off, when they were going global, they changed their name from Gapstar into G-star because of the American Gap brand. G-Star is now a very big, well known and respective denim brand worldwide. In my private denim collection their are some key items, sort of vintage in the meantime, from their more than 25 years of G-star history. Today I want to highlight 3 pieces which are a kind of cult nowadays and for me personally one the best ever made by the Gapstar / G-Star company.
The 3 Gapstar / G-star items;
Gapstar US Second jeans. Selvage jeans made of left hand fabric. Dated from +/- 1994-1995. Classic 5 pocket jeans. Sold as pre-washed jeans.
G-star US Lumber jeans. Selvage jeans made of right hand fabric. Dated from 1997-1998. Classic 5 pocket jeans with a cinch back. Sold as pre-washed jeans. They also had these as a rigid (unwashed) version.
G-star US First jacket. Selvage jacket made of right hand fabric. Dated from 1997-1998. Classic trucker denim jacket. Sold as a rigid (unwashed) jacket. The jacket is still unwashed.
Last week Eat Dust showed their Spring Summer ’17 collection for the first time at the Seek Show in Berlin. The theme of their brand new collection is: ‘The Lonely Hearts Club‘. Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco, both founders of Eat Dust, are true masters as it comes to make a collection with a mix of denim, workwear, streetwear and biker influences. Its always a big pleasure to catch up with these buddies, hearing the story behind every high-quality made piece. They added some killer pieces next to their core heavy weight denim fabric items, from very light comfomfortable denim pieces to an iconic suede item. The best is to check their collection live ofcourse at the upcoming Jacket Required show in London or visit their showroom in Antwerp – Belgium. I made some shots of several key pieces, check them here below (pics quality isn’t that good, sorry for that). Great to see you again guys and congrats with your new collection! Your hard work pays off every season, keep it up! Eat Dust: ‘One for the Road’.
Dutch lifestyle denim brand Chasin’ launched last week during the Pitti Uomo tradeshow their latest collaboration: Royal Attitude. With this collab Chasin’ recycled uniforms from the Royal Netherlands Navy. The project was conceived together with James Veenhoff, founder of House of Denim Amsterdam.
Royal Attitude will be a seasonal part of the Chasin’ collection as of now. Through recycling of naval pieces Chasin’ created 2 stand out jeans, both in a 11,5oz quality. 1 is the iconic Ego jeans, which is the brand’s representation of the classic 5 pocket, with added stretch. A more contemporary fit is the cropped chino fit. For these jeans unique washes were created, inspired by the ocean. Next to the denims, the collection contains a denim jacket and several tops. Collection in stores from January 2017.
Congrats guys with the launch of this great and creative idea. Jeans and Navy are a perfect match!
Lumina is a classic American clothing brand with items that gets better with wear. Their collection is inspired by the culture, landscape and climate of North Carolina. They have two different pairs of rigid jeans in their collection;
Taper Trenton Jean: 12oz White Oak Cone Mills denim
Athletic Taper Jackson Jean: 13oz White Oak Cone Mills selvage denim
Check the American craftsmanship here below and watch also the introduction video about their brand.
Taper Trenton Jean: 12oz White Oak Cone Mills
Athletic Taper Jackson Jean: 13oz White Oak Cone Mills selvage denim
Original vintage Levi’s Jeans501 patched jeans from my private denim collection. This Levi’s Jeans is from the ’60′s. The previous owner cut-off the jeans as a short and patched it with some cool old school American patches. The jeans has some typical legendary vintage Levi’sJeans details as:
Big E Red Tab
Washed-out redline selvage
Number 6 on the back of the top button (this refers to the ’60′s production)
Mosevic is an up and coming sunglasses brand and manufacturer from Cornwall, UK. After years of material and process exploration, they launched their first range of denim eyewear on Kickstarter in 2015. After this successful launch they now have a full line-up collection with denim eyewear.
Mosevic take discarded and damaged jeans and use the reclaimed fabric in their latest collection of Solid Denim eyewear. They recycle jeans of all shapes, sizes, colours and textures. Each pair of sunglasses is built from layers of these different denim fabrics using their unique, handcrafted process in their workshop in Cornwall, UK. From flashes of colour and subtle blue gradients to an explosion of textures each and every pair of sunglasses is completely unique. Batch 1 includes 6 different frame shapes and are now available at selected retailers and through their webshop.
Although Summer isn’t started yet, here are some shots from the new Fall Winter ’16 collection from Japanese brand Kapital. The collections from Kapital are always on point and different than the rest. Their silhouette is outstanding and an inspiration for every (denim) designer. Personally I like Winter collection pics more than Summer as you can style and work more with layers. This new FW16 collection looks great as always! Big up for Kapital!
This vintage Levi’s Jeans Trucker ‘Big E’ cut-off vest, dated late ’60′s, is from my personal archive. I have a true weakness for old customized denim jackets. Especially if they are original Levi’s. This model, the 70506 also known as the Type 3, is the most famous jacket of the denim jackets, also the most copied model by many other brands. This model was introduced by Levi’s Jeans in 1962 as the follow-up from the 507XX (Type 2 Jacket). The key details from this jacket are: Big E Red Tab, single stitched closure, button stamp is #521 (Levi’s used the single digit stamps first, later they changed it into three digits like 521, 524, 525, 526, etc.), tobacco stitching and cut-off sleeves (which refers to bikers). The previous owner was a Suzuki racer fan as he patched a lot of biker related patches and pins on his denim vest. Check it out!
The Butcher of Blue (BoB) brand – founded by Bob Rijnders from BOB Hoogland Store – NL, expanded the collection for Spring Summer ’16. For SS there are several new t-shirt prints and colours added to the BoB collection, all made in Portugal. There are also some new jeans in the collection. Bob started his brand with an unwashed (dry) jeans so the new light washed jeans and rock ‘n roll black jeans are both a perfect complement in the collection. The jeans are made of selvage fabrics from the Italian Candiani Mill. And to make it all complete, and really nice!, is that he also made his own Butcher of Blue coffee and indigo coffee cups. Well done Bob, great to see that your collection is growing every season. Check below some highlights of the collection.
Last year Levi’s Jeans and Google announced their latest innovative collaboration. Their project is called Project Jacquard. With this project they created a new smart technology woven into the denim fabric. With this fabric you can control your phone. Project Jacquard will allow designers and developers to build connected, touch-sensitive textiles into their own products. For this first kick-off project they used the classic Levi’s Jeans Trucker Jacket and gave it a twist that’s really cool and outstanding. In the two short movies here below you can see the introduction and the making of the project Jacquard. Great things are going to happen in the future of denim!
Last week Lennaert Nijgh, founder of Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) launched his new Kickstarter project with his Benzak – European Made – collection. After 4 years of producing jeans in Japan, Benzak Denim Developers is expanding the brand with a new line. With this new Europe made line Lennaert created a high-quality jeans and other garments that complement the same lifestyle as Benzak Denim Developers, but at a lower price point.
The entirely new Benzak collection is made in Europe. The fabrics for the jeans are from the Candiani mills in Italy, which is known as one of the best denim mills in Europe. The entire line, jeans, jersey and sweat fabrics, are produced in small ateliers in Portugal. The Kickstarter project is already very successful as Lennaert received nearly 50% of his Kickstarter goal in just a couple of days. Check his new Benzak – Europa Made – collection here below and give him some support. Congrats Lennaert with this new collection and good luck with your goal!
Waistcoats plays a key role in every collection from Blue de Gênes. Every waistcoat has an authentic look and comes with a special Italian lining made especially for Blue de Gênes. From the SS16 collection they created the Monta Rugged and Pieve Rapello waistcoats. Both waistcoats are high-quality made with a lot of authentic details.
A waistcoat is a perfect item to wear during Spring or Summer. You can wear with a simple t-shirt or (denim) shirt.
The Blue de GênesMonta Rugged and Pieve Rapello waistcoats have special shaped pockets and branded real leather straps in the neck. The buttons are inspired by vintage military buttons, made of buffalo horn. It has the characteristic adjustable buckle on the back to make it all complete. The Blue de Gênes waistcoats are available in sizes 46-56.
Monta Rugged Waistcoat
Pieve Rapello Waistcoat
Explore more of the Blue de Gênes collection here:
Lebl Denim Atelier is an Amsterdam based denim studio founded by Leon Blok. Leon is making tailored made and personalised denim garments. If you can’t find your favo denim style, he’s your man! For his creations he is only using the best suppliers from America and Japan that have a long history in manufacturing high-quality denim fabrics.
How does it work to get your favo Lebl pair of jeans or jacket? Here are the steps to your ultimate piece of denim:
Step 1) We sit down and have a chat about your style, your personality, what you do. We also discuss any ideas you might have about your new favorite jeans.
Step 2) We take your body measurements and go into the subjects of fit, choice of fabric and stitch detailing. Lebl serves as your sounding board and will give advice, but you are the one making decisions.
Step 3) Then we part ways and Lebl draws up a pattern and design, and carefully construct your sample.
Step 4) We meet again for a sample fit. This is where you test and try the functional design before it’ll be made out of your selected fabric. We make the necessary alterations to the pattern, rejig pockets, fine-tune all details and adjust things where needed. Next time you see your garment, it’ll be for real.
Step 5) The day has come to try on the final product. When you slip into it for the first time, the raw fabric might feel weird to you. But trust us: after a week or two you might not want to take it off again and it feels like a natural match. Not love at first wear? We’ll adjust it for as long as it takes to feel perfect to you.
Below some examples of high quality, special handmade Lebl Denim garments.
Denham Jeans opened their first store in the city centre of Utrecht – NL on the Choorstraat 2. The 80sqm shop is created within the richly sculpted 1897 corner building originally designed by famous Dutch architect P.J. Houtzagers. The new store focuses on Denham’s premium 5-pocket denim line for men as well as seasonal menswear offer in shirting, jersey, knits, tailored styles and outerwear.
The design concept of this store contains authentic vintage elements including a rescued and reconditioned farmhouse floor, 60’s era industrial French tannery-trollies, reclaimed 1950’s Utrecht street lamps, and repurposed brass tailor’s scissors are set off by fresh white walls, modern lighting and bold photography. The spirit of storytelling and a celebration of natural patina continues through to the bespoke service desk which has been carefully clad with over 200 individual brightly colored antique American measuring sticks. The store looks really fresh, congrats to Jason Denham and crew with this new adventure! Check below the new Denham store.
Fat-Boy Clothing (FBC) from France are having next to their high-end made quality denim items also some fresh Spring Summer tees in their collection. Great authentic inspired workwear prints, printed on water base to get the best results, on quality t-shirts. Here are some of my favo’s, but check their site for the whole collection.
Ondura is an one man army brand founded by Leens Jan Ondra in 2013. Ondura is based in Bünde Westfalen, a small town in Germany. Leens is born and raised in a small village, inspired by D.I.Y, punk music and subculture. Leens lived in a 6 m2 old army truck for nearly ten years. Due to this lifestyle, he became minimalist; less is more and quality will endure. After working as a carpenter he studied fashion design at the fine art school Berlin Weißensee where he graduated with distinction. After working unsatisfied for several years in the fashion industry as a designer, it was time to built his own brand with his passion for durable goods, so Ondura was born. Leens is using only the best of the best leather with Ondura, natural vegetable tanned which age very nice with use. Check below a selection of his high-end handmade products made by a true craftsman. Keep up the good work Leens!
In the denim industry you see a lot of very special jeans nowadays, different weights of fabric, methods of making, production wise, special selvage colours, etc. But sometimes you see a really special one, like this jeans from Nobrandedon. Nobrandedon is a denim brand founded in 2011 by Aryan Pandam Raafi from Indonesia. Aryan created this special and limited edition Nobrandedon THW501XX Jeans.
The jeans is completely made by hand. The total time to produce one pair of jeans is 36 hours. The jeans is made from heavy weight 18/19oz selvage broken twill fabric. The fabric has a double redline selvage which referes to the Indonesia flag. The threads of the jeans are handspun, coloured by hand with natural indigo and the fabric is woven by hand by Lumintu. The slubby fabric shows some amazing different colours of blue shades. Lumintu is specialized in handwoven selvage fabrics. Their fabrics are an one of a kind. Their handwoven fabrics need 4 times of energy and time to weave strong and stiff fabrics. They can create only 1.5 meter each day. The fit of the jeans is inspired by the Levi’s 501 fit from 1947. The backpockets are strenght with hidden rivets. The patch is made with several different denim fabrics, colour and weight, and stitched with the Japanese sashiko method.
This pair of Nobrandedon is a true musthave for every denimhead. Unfortunately this pair is already sold out, but they planned to do a new handwoven jeans this upcoming Fall Winter ’16. I’m really happy to have this one in my private collection! Looking forward to see their new edition. Check this very special Nobrandedon jeans here below. Thanks Aryan for this pair and keep up the good work! Keep in touch!
Every jeans is packed in a heavy weight cotton totebag
The Nobrandedon Handmade THW501XX Selvage Jeans
Authentic pocketflasher with all the special details
This weekend Japanese denim brand Japan Blue opended their store in Paris – France. The store looks amazing with Japanese details in the interior. It looks that they made a perfect mix of a gallery look and feel on the first floor and in the basement a true denim heaven. With the store they introduce Japan culture and indigo craftsmanship. Congrats Katsu Manabe and Japan Blue crew!
Edwin Jeans Malaysia just announced their new Limited Edition Edwin Rainbow Selvage jeans. The jean is made of a special rainbow selvage 13.25oz fabric. The jean will be made in run of 750 pieces and every jeans is individually numbered. The backpockets are the best part of this special edition as they are stitched with the colours of the rainbow. This idea of the backpockets looks the same as the special edition from Nudie Jeans and Oi Polloi from last year, check: www.long-john.nl/nudie-jeans-x-oil-polloi-rainbow-grim-tim-jean/. Looking forward to see this one in real live, but don’t know if it will released in Europe.