Blackhorse Lane Ateliers makes and sell organic, selvedge & raw denim jeans from their atelier in London, England. Blackhorse Lane Ateliershas a focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers opened its doors in April 2016 and is founded by Bilgehan “Han” Ates which has 25 years of experience in the textile industry. They focus with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers on the following:
They manufacture their own line of premium selvedge and raw denim jeans. Theye offer multiple fits from super slim to vintage straight, in multiple raw denims.
Their atelier has collaborated with prestigious brands including Drake’s, Hussein Chalayan, Christopher Raeburn, King & Tuckfield, Endrime and Labour & Wait.
They offer sampling and production services for clothing made with denim and similar materials.
Below one of my personal favo jeans from the Blackhorse Lane Atelier denim collection: The E5 relaxed tapered jeans made of 14.5oz organic ISKOdenim fabric. The E5 fit has a medium rise, relaxed thigh area and a subtle taper from the knee downwards. The jeans is clean and classic, just how a perfect jeans has to look like. UK craftsmanship it is.
Benzak launched a range of classic tees with their European Made collection. The tees are made of heavy 210 gr/m2 jersey fabrics. The Benzak tees are made in three must have colours: white – grey and black. All the tees are crew necks and made of 100% cotton. There are two versions of the tees: BDD chain stitch embroidery and with the Benzak crackle print. The crackle print will age very nice with wear, which you can see here below. Like the rest of the Benzak collection the tees are also made in Portugal. Let the Summer begin and remember: ‘Luxury is going to work in a pair of jeans and a t-shirt’.
The print will crack and age by wear and wash, this is considered a unique feature of these t-shirts.
The Companion denim brand from Barcelona is making handcrafted denim items. On each item you will find some special details. The Companion Joel 012N Jeans is also loaded with some excellent specials. The basis is the so called ‘rainbow fabric’. The yarns of this jeans are first coloured with the rainbow colors before they touched the indigo blue. So when this Companion jeans fade you got a nice ‘rainbow fade’. Next to that the specials of this Companion Joel 012N jeans are;
13.5oz colour core, selvedge denim, 100% Cotton, sanforized, Japan
Companion stripes logo with “nerve” embroidery
One piece selvedge fly
Two tone stitching throughout the pair
Selvedge key hanger loop
Peek a boo selvedge on coin pocket
Double nerve stitch on pocket bags
Reinforced pocket opening with herringbone tape
Hand felled yoke and back rise
Italian hickory stripes pocket bags
Colorful chainstitch run-off on backpockets
Cotton cord inserted in beltloops
Japanese black laurel leaf buttons with copper prong
Antonio di Battistafrom Italy is besides a great denim collector, with an extremely huge and rare collection - more than 3.000 items-, the founder of the brand Blue Blanket Jeans. The Blue Blanket collection contains high-quality made denim goods. Every now and then Antonio drops some new items to the Blue Blanket collection. It was now the right time to develop some new great stuff which he just launched on his website. The new items are remarkable classic pieces like white plain tees, denim arpon, gilet, short, shirts (also for ladies!), loose fit jeans, workwear jackets and even a handmade wooden mini cruiser. Most of the items are made of fine Italian fabrics and has great details as Japanese woven labels. Always great to see the work of this craftsman and friend Antonio di Battista. Check the total collection on his site, below some of my favo’s. Keep up the good work!
Oldblue Jeans created a heavyweight edition a while ago. For this heavyweight Oldblue Jeans edition they used a clean slim straight fit. A slightly slim silhouette with the comfort of a regular straight cut. A perfect cut for your daily wear. For the fabric they used a 21oz selvage true indigo denim from Japan. The fabric is unsanforized denim. It starts as a rigid 21oz denim and once after the intial soak/wash it will become approximately 23oz. The selvage quality is made on an old authentic shuttle loom. For the innerpockets they used a hickory striped fabric, very strong and thick fabric. For the hardware, they used Japan made 100% copper washer – burr rivets and “Laurel Leaf” iron plated doughnut buttons, also made in Japan. The laurel leaf is a symbol of peace, used a lot on jeans and jackets during WW2. The leather patch is vegetable tanned US horse hide. So this will fade nicely together with this Oldblue Jeans.
This Oldblue Jeans is a true heavyweight champion. The fabric is so stiff that it can stand on it’s own. It’s a heavy denim project for the orginal denimheads.
Fatboy Clothing is a brand by Charles Niehues from France. FBC is an one man company with only one single needle sewing machine. Charles respects all the techniques of traditional work which results in high-quality made products like this canvas coat.
This Fatboy Clothing coat is made of 13.5oz heavy cotton canvas. The stripes are painted by hand using water based ink. This process is very time consuming, but the outcome is very unique and an one of a kind. The cotton is from France, same as the calfskin leather collar. The labels of the coat are printed on fabric and dyed with pigments to lend them a used look and feel. To make the FBC coat complete he added wooden buttons on it. This is just a master piece.
Check also the new video from Fatboy Clothing which gives the perfect outdoor life experience.
The French brand Bleu de Paname was founded in 2009 by Christophe Lépine and Thomas Giorgetti. With Bleu de Panamethey create indigo, work- and sportswear related clothing for men. The Bleu de Paname collections have it all, it contains pants, shirts, sweats, jackets, etc. The brand has developed their own signature over the years and is always a feast for the eyes. Below the Bleu de Paname Spring Summer 2017 collection.
Denim brand Pike Brothersis making high-quality selvage jeans. Some of the Pike Brothersdenim fabrics are made on the authentic shuttle looms from Picanol from the ’30′s. In the latest Pike BrothersJournal they showed us some serious cool shots of the making of these durable and classic denim fabrics. Below shots of how it works. The video shows you the loom in full effect with some fine music from Black Patti. Keep up the good work Pike Brothers.
Authentic outdoor brand Filson has an outstanding watch collection called The Dutch Harbor Watch Collection. This collection is inspired by the dive watches of the 1950′s. The collection brings functionality to places where time is a matter of life and death. The Filson Dutch Harbor Watches are water resistant up to 990 feet. It features a bezel for precise timing, and is available with a leather, nylon, rubber or stainless steel band.
This one is my favorite in the Filson Dutch Harbor Watch collection. The details are;
43mm case •Brushed stainless steel case plating
Unidirectional bezel for precise timing
30 ATM: water resistant at more than 900 feet
High-contrast hands for easy legibility in low light
Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans added a new family member to their denim collection. Their latest fit is the Tilted Tor. The Nudie JeansTilted Tor is the new anti-fit with a slim tapered leg. The waist is slightly tilted with a high back rise and a normal front. So if you are looking for something new with a narrow leg opening , Tilted Tor is the one for you.
The Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor fit is coming in two different options:
Dry Cold Black – 11.75oz comfort stretch
Dry Pure Navy – 11.5oz comfort stretch
Watch how the Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor looks like in this movie:
FDMTL(Fundamental Agreement Luxury) is started in 2005 by Gaku Tsuyoshifrom Tokyo – Japan. The collections from FDMTL are always inspired by the Japanese clothing history, so it contains a lot of repair, patches and indigo stuff. It has links with the vintage sashiko technique, old boro’s and kimonos. The FDMTL collections are a true inspiration for every (denim) designer and enthousiasm for blue jeans.
One of the historical moments in the denim industry is the formation of the Genius Group in Italy. The Genius Group started in 1982 as a think tank from several upcoming designers which were the founders from brands as: Diesel, Replay, Goldie, Ten Big Boys, Muscle Bo Bo Kaminsky, etc. In total there were 14 brands who joined the Genius Group. The idea of the Genius Group was that they could share they knowledge about product development, marketing and sales supprt to help eachother to grow with their brand. The initiator of the Genius Group was Adriano Goldschmied.Adriano Goldschied is known as ‘The Godfather of Denim’. He’s like a father figure for the denim industry. The picture from the Genius Group is legend and a true milestone in the denim industry. Below the famous picture, cutted in three pieces, the original one is one long picture.
In the middle picture you see Adriano Goldschmied sitting front row with the beard. Next to him is Renzo Rosso (owner of Diesel Jeans).
Kings of Indigo is the last seasons very strong with their women collection. They create unique cuts and finishes with their jeans, and also their tops are very special. It has a American work-sportswear character with a twist. Kings of Indigo just launched some strong new styles for Spring Summer ’17 and this Sade Jeans is really cool with their big selvage turn ups. The Sade Jeans is a relaxed straight fit. The legs are parallel straight from the thigh to the leg opening. The leg has a selvage turn-up of 20 cm. The jeans is made of 100% organic cotton, 13oz unwashed fabric.
Lennaert Nijgh started his brand with a true passion for dry selvedge denim which eventually turned into Benzak Denim Developers. The first ‘Made in Japan’ styles were developed in 2011 and hit the market in September 2013. After years of slowly building the BDD brand, in 2016 he released his 2nd line, BENZAK – EUROPEAN MADE.
As it goes with many brands, the first orders are placed by those who are close to you, your friends. In the new Benzak lookbook you can meet some of them wearing the brand on their own way.
Indigo People creates unique indigo pieces based on authentic craftsmanship. The Indigo People items are a perfect addition on your denim outfit and combines textile designs with the classic jeans attitude. For Spring/Summer 2017 Indigo Peopleexplored the traditional batik printing technique combined with indigo dyeing. The inspiration for this new collection came from antique batik textiles and vintage Japanese shibori designs.
Batik is a wax-resist printing and dyeing process applied to the finished textile. Batik is either created by hand drawing with the melted wax using a sprouted tool called ‘canting’, or by printing the wax with a handmade copper stamp. The wax blocks the dyestuff to penetrate into the textile. Then the cloth is dipped piece by piece multiple times in natural indigo by hand, to achieve the deep indigo colour. To remove the printed wax, the cloth is boiled in hot water. Once the wax is removed the printed areas regain their raw colour and the artwork appears on the textile.
Great to see that this indigo brand is expanding their collection with shirts next to their beautiful scarves. Keep up the good work guys. Take a look at the Indigo People SS17 collection.
Gaku Tsuyoshi from Tokyo – Japan started his FDMTL brand in 2005 because he couldn’t find the jeans he was looking for. This is the most common drive why people start with their own business. Gaku produced distressed jeans for several years before he expanded FDMTLwith indigo fabrics and patchwork designs. Next to his very impressive collections Gaku also collabs with a lot of high-quality brands to create outstanding and special products. In 2016 for example he teamed-up with skateboard brand Vans to develop a special Era and Slip-On version.
That same year he also did a super nice collab together with Dover Street Market Ginza and created a boro inspired Eames Chair.
For this year we can expect collaborations with Vans (Sk8-Hi, Slip-on), New Era (5950 fitted hat), and Masterpiece (rucksack, tote) will all use a new Deep Indigo Collection design. Other notable collaborations include Jam Homemade (accessories), Chup (socks), Danner (hiking boots), and Seviskig (leather jackets).
My friends from the Heddels platform spent the afternoon with Gaku Tsuyoshi at his FDMTL’s flagship store, Catii Tokyo, in Meguro. He spoke with Heddelsabout his roots in denim, his love for boro fabrics, and his recent successful creative collaborations.
Check below some shots from the video they made and watch the Heddels X FDMTL studio visit here below. The video is directed by Ryan Lindow and produced by Ryan and Laurent Pozo. Nice one guys!
Check the video of the Heddels X FDMTL studio visit;
Cork and leather insole with foam cushioning and Butts and Shoulders logo engraving
Handstitched bridge lining
Leather foxing with double stitching lining
Hand numbered on tongue
All leather innercase
Extra pair of dark brown laces
Take a look at our new Butts and Shoulders product: The Sneakers. For the promo of the sneakers we made again a film. The shots in the film are made in The Netherlands and in Portugal. The film is made by the talented Edwin van der Sande. Meet below The Sneakers!
This little vintage Sanforized blue overall is from my private archive. It’s a boys overall from Sanforized made in the 1940′s. These kind of overalls were worn by farmers in the U.S. This overall is a small one, waist size 20. Typical about these 1940′s workwear is the orange thread. It has only one fly button, donut button, and one top button with the brand name Sanforized on it. The pockets are fastened with flat rivets. Like the most overalls you could wear this with suspenders. The suspenders on this overall is fastened by hand and is an original Sanforized one but without the original buttons. The backpockets are simple, plain, without any arcuates. The overall is made of right hand non-selvage fabric. The overall is a true American workwear style.
Rabbie Denim (R.D.G.) jeans is a denim label based in Glasgow,Scotland. The company was founded in 2013 by jeans designer Rabbie Denim. Up until now Rabbie has been making commission based one off pieces, which has led to boasting clients such as Manchester United and Barcelona Fc. Rabbie was recently described in the Financial Times contemporary arts issue as most creative jeans designer in the field.
Below the Rabbie Denim Tartan jeans in 14oz soft indigo Wembley denim. The jean has a tartan yoke and ticket pocket. Rabbie jeans are always an one off piece as they put a different slant on each pair. Check it out!