My current daily jeans for 1.2 years, no wash, is the Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) 505 fit – Big E - from 1967. This replica jeans was one of the first more tapered version in the ’60′s. It’s made from 14oz right hand sanforized Cone Mills fabric and has a zip fly. As I am always wearing one pair for a period of 2 years this one has still some months to go. Below some snap shots of my best indigo friend for now! Show yours by sending pictures to: firstname.lastname@example.org
In the middle of the centre of Amsterdam ‘Mick Keus’ is running his up-cycling denim atelier. Mick believes that the Levi’s 501 is the prefect base for every fit. That’s why he uses old 501′s as a pattern to create the perfect custom made jeans. In every personal made jeans he puts the wishes of his clients. American pride with a Dutch touch. Meet denim maker Mick Keus.
One of my last vintage treasures is this rare deadstock Lee Jeans Riders kids jacket. The jacket is new and an original one from 1940. It was found behind store shelves from an old denim store, named Ries Strauss Men’s Clothing, which was closed in the beginning of the ’70′s. The store was located in a small town called Danville, Illinois – USA (around 120 miles (190 km) south of Chicago). Lee Jeans introduced the Rider jacket in 1931 as the first more shorter tailored western style jacket. My jacket is probably from the mid ’40′s, the time that the World War 2 ended. This period was very crucial for the denim industry as a lot of soldiers left their denim items all over the world. This was the start from a new denim era. Also known as the ‘Golden Period’. But back to my jacket. It has the cool red/golden necklabel with Union Made – Sanforized on it. Under the label there’s the sizing label, boys 4. Also one of the breast pockets has the Amalgamated Garment Workers of America tag. One of the most cool things about the jacket is that the original pricetag is still on it, $2.98. The jacket is made with right hand denim fabric. It has some dust on the right side of the jacket from laying for the many years in the store. I was very happy that I could get my hands on this special item. It’s very rare to find deadstock unused items these days. Great addition to my personal jacket collection. Check here below the Lee beauty!
Platform ‘A Continuous Lean’ gives us a look inside the legendary Cone Mills in Greensboro, North Carolina – US. Founder ‘A Continuous Lean’ Michael Williams and filmmaker Dustin Cohen travelled to the legendary denim mill to make this perfect video. Levi’s Jeans and Cone Mills are celebrating this year their 100 years anniversary. They are doing business for 100 years already. Their partnership is also known as ‘The Golden Handshake’. This is the gentleman’s agreement between Cone Mills and Levi Strauss to exclusively manufacture Levi’s Shrink-to-Fit denim. With this video you will get a glimpse into one of the most authentic denim mills.
Nudie Jeans made a biker jacket made with black, coated denim. As I personally prefer blue indigo denim fabrics, this coated black denim is something different. The coated denim gives a leather feeling. A new development in the denim industry. The jacket features all the classic hallmarks of the classics, from the offcentre zip fastening to the wide notch lapels and the three zip front-pockets and a flapped one. As you wear this jacket it will get great worn in effects and the coating will get an almost leatherlike look. Looking forward to see a worn-out one which is aged. Great jacket for the punk look!
We’re working hard on the last finishes for our new upcoming product for our ‘Butts and Shoulders’ brand. We create our ultimate boot, our classic boot. For the boot we use only the best of the best materials like our beloved natural vegetable tanned leather. The boot is constructed with the famous and lifelong lasted Goodyear Welted construction. So the boots will age very nice over time, but also will fits like a glove. The boots are going into production this December in a Portuguese factory. This factory is specialized in high standard ‘Goodyear Welted’ footwear. They make a lot of shoes and boots for the army as well. In Holland we will finish the boots to make them more special. To give you a tip from the iceberg, each pair will get an unique hand stamped number like our natural virgin bags. Looking really forward to visit our factory to start the first production run of our boots. Below some sneak pics from the making of our samples.
Stay updated about our boots by leaving your emailadress in the following link: www.buttsandshoulders.com/boots
All about the Levi’s® 501 Original Jean video shows in 1+ minute why this jean is still a classic after all these years. The mother of all jeans! Still one of my favo’s too, especially the 1944 fit with the interesting WW2 story and the classic 1947 fit which is still one of the best fits ever made. American heritage it is.
Although the Winter officially hasn’t started yet Kiat Yen, founder of ‘Indigo People’, sended me some sneak pics of the new ‘Indigo People’ Spring Summer 2016 collection. For their new collection they took their inspiration from vintage Shibori and Sashiko textiles, traditional Japanese patterns are recreated by using authentic weaving techniques like Ikat. Unlike Shibori which is a tie-dye technique on finished items, the patterns are tied on the weaving yarns to resist dye. The tied yarns are dipped into natural indigo up to 20 times to create a deep blue indigo color. The highly experienced artisans then weave the patterns directly on the handloom. The ultimate pieces that are created with this technique are the Haru, Hiba, Jiro and Aki.
In their Spring Summer 2016 collection ‘Indigo People’ used this delicate material to create two gem pieces; the Amagi with a simple rain pattern and the Hiba with its highly graphic design, get a total new dimension caused by the richness of this graceful material. It takes up to 5 days to weave 1 single piece due to the ultra fine weaving yarns. A new area that ‘Indigo People’ starts to explore in this season are the handmade ties. Handwoven Ikat fabrics with an authentic design, dyed in natural indigo, are manually cut and stitched to form patchworks.
As always the collection looks really awesome and the products from ‘Indigo People’ are the perfect addition for every denim outfit. Thanks for giving the sneak Kiat, till soon!
Alexander von Bronewski from Germany is running his awesome Be-Cause blog (http://be-cause-blog.com) for a couple of years already. Next to that he also started a while ago with his own leather brand Alexander von Bronewski Manufaktur. With his brand he’s making handmade authentic, mostly, leather goods like bags, belt and other small products. All with the skills from a true craftsman. Made in limited pieces only which makes it very special. In the film here below you will get a glimps of his daily life and work. Well done Alex!
Below some personal highlights from the new Fall Winter ’15 collection of Bleu de Paname. The Bleu de Paname brand was founded by Christophe Lépine and Thomas Giorgetti in 2009. They are always creating something different, classic styles with a twist. And ofcourse with some indigo flavour. Great work as always!
Nudie Jeans presents the Lean Dean US selvage. The latest baby of Nudie jeans is a Swedish selvage jeans, made in the USA, limited to 1.000 pieces. The jean is an homage to the craftsmanship and art of making denim. Made with 100% organic cotton, grown and harvested in the state of Texas. The 14.75oz selvage fabric was made by Cone Denim at their White Oak mill in Greensboro, North Carolina – US. The fabric was then cut and sewn at the Last Denim Shop in San Francisco, California. An edition for the true Nudie heads.
Kiriko Jeans is a denim brand from Portland – Oregon. They are proud to introduce their Japanese denim line. This particular jeans here below is made of 100% cotton 13oz. selvedge denim made in Fukuyama City - Japan. Fukuyama City is one of the biggest manufacturers out of Japan producing some of the highest quality, most sought after denim textile. The jeans has a combination of their new crafted denim cuffed with two of their most popular Japanese patterns creates a one-of-a-kind look. They believe in quality clothes made with the best materials that will last a lifetime and fit perfectly. Check out the craftsmanship from Kiriko Jeans.
Deadstock Resurrection is a new denim brand founded by Peter Overbeek (NL). The first items are just finished and I can tell you that these are looking very nice. Especially the Robert Trucker Jacket. The jacket is made of 15.5oz beautiful sugar cane denim from the Nihon Menpu Mills in Japan. The fabric is made out of sugar cane. The jacket is a tailored slim fit, has iconic double pleats on the front fastened with signature bartacks. The two-prong shank button and pierced through rivet construction in combination with the heavy yarn for the triple needle stitching gives the jacket extra strong durability. Their genuine brown leather logo burned inside patch, big inside print, signature crossbones embroidery, selvedge placket and chest pocket details gives it the authentic Deadstock Resurrection feeling. All in all a perfect jacket. I saw Peter wearing a worn-in sample of the jacket and the fabric age very nice! It has different shades of blue which is very cool! Check the jacket here below, it’s available now. Good luck Peter!
Indigo People and Denham Jeans teamed up with a nice scarf collab. After a short informal meeting between Indigo People and Jason Denham of Denham The Jeanmaker during a trade show they decided to create something together to share their same indigo passion. Indigo People’s love for indigo and authentic craftsmanship and Denham’s worship for tradition and contemporary design refinement complete each other’s signature and form the fundament for these special edition scarves. The scarves are made from raw hand spun cotton yarns that are manually dyed in natural indigo, which creates an imperfect beauty that fits in an authentic jeans attitude. Blending the traditional open weave and ikat weaving technique with a refined modern look, the two timeless scarves embody both brands’ spirits. The scarves will be available for the true indigo lovers in the official Denham stores and Denham’s dealers.
Swedish clothing brand Sarva made an indigo waistcoat which is made with natural indigo dyed fabric. Everything is handmade from weaving and dyeing to printing. The print is done hand. Curious how? The stencils are carved by hand in wood or on heavy paper. Then a mix of soya bean flour and slaked lime is applied through the openings of the stencil onto the white pure cotton cloth. When dry, the fabric is dipped numerous times into large tubs containing the natural indigo dye which is extracted from plants in the area. After the desired color is achieved and the fabric has dried, the paste is scraped off, revealing the white patterns on the now blue indigo dyed cotton fabric. Great isn’t it! Authentic workmanship it is.
Dawson Denim from Birghton – UK started with their denim brand with vintage motoring as their inspiration. It all began with a 1957 BSA Bantam motorbike. It was this motorbike that would combine their passion for design and their love of denim, this would inspire their branding. The Dawson Denim range began with workwear aprons. These were inspired by original aprons used up until the 1960’s. They have expanded their range slowly since 2012 with jackets, jeans and bags. Take a look into their workshop where they make their handmade blue indigo goods in the short film here below.
Rest Denim is an independent denim brand started in London. The brand is entirely run by one man Toby Owen. Toby started Rest Denim out of a love for raw denim. His items are made with the highest quality selvedge denim and canvas, most is woven in Japan, but also by Cone Mills in the U.S.A. Most of his hardware is made from solid brass or copper, made in Japan and the U.K. One of my favo’s is his denim apron. The apron pictured is made from unsanforized green selvedge denim. This is extremely slubby and irregular, and fades to a stunning patina with use. Rest arcuates and ‘peekaboo’ selvedge detail showing next to the rivet on the breast pocket. Check out the work of this craftsman Toby Owen!
Check out the jeans from Lennaert Nijgh (founder Benzak Denim Developers), fit BDD-006 heavy slub after 4,5 months of active wear every day. His jeans has already shows some nice fadings. Lennaert just went to Japan to make a production video of the whole process. His jeans are designed in Holland and made in Japan. On his trip he also went to the legendary Jeans street in Kojima – Okayama. Looking forward to see more pics of this unwashed jeans. And to the production video. Go for it Lennaert!
Lennaert Nijgh (founder Benzak Denim Deveopers)
Recently we delivered our new Butts and Shoulders ‘Rough line’ to our retailers. For this collection we also developed a new store display with free keyrings. The keyrings are a give a way to customers who are interested to see the magical ageing process from the leather. I shot these pics last week at one on our retailers: Country House in Rotterdam – NL. Great authentic denim store with a beautiful collection.
The Rough collection
Mohsin Sajid, the man behind the Endrime denim brand, is making great steps. His collections are bigger every season and filled with beautiful items. He combines authentic details and silhouettes but always with a great modern twist. One of his highlights for me is still his handmade, read hand stitched jeans. This is really cool and very rare! He also made hand stitched denim ties, also one with selvage fabric. This one is for the real denim dandy’s. Keep on going the good work my friend! Till soon.