Lucky there are still people who are making something special and unique instead of mass production. Yesterday I came across another small denim brand from Lansing, Michigan (USA). Ray’s Raw Denim is a one man brand. They make world-class jeans by hand and believe that style is better than fashion. The garments they build are designed for hard wear and intended to make you stand just a bit taller and have a spring of confident comfort in your step. Seriously. These are the sort of jeans that will be like your favorite go-to sweatshirt or your lucky ball cap. And they’ll last you for years to come.
Mohsin Sajid from Endrime Denim – UK made a few months ago something which is the top of the top. A 100% full hand stitched denim. Every single detail is added by hand. It’s made from heavy denim fabric, 18oz Amhot selvage. No sewing machine was used to make this pair. It took 5 sewing days to complete one pair. This is something really uncommon and special. Great idea Mohsin! Check below the handmade Endrime jean.
Pics source: Rawr Denim
Yesterday I received this early X-Mas present from my friends from Indigo People. Indigo People was born out of love for traditional craftsmanship and the beauty of natural indigo. The brand is a homage to the artisans who keep up their heritage and to people with a great affection for authentic handicrafts. All their products are woven by hand and coloured with natural indigo. I got the Tsuru model which is width: 45cm / length: 180cm. I really like the intensive blue colour and the weaving structure of the scarf. The colour will age very nice over time. Many thanks guys and all the best for you too in 2015 with Indigo People! See you soon.
Dulac is group of designers who share a love and passion for denim. Frustrated with the mainstream fashion industry, they decided to produce jeans the right way, and so a Kickstarter campaign was launched in November 2014. Their jeans are simply styled, meticulously constructed, and built to fit our bodies. They only make small runs, using the best denim stocks. Limited edition jeans crafted from the best quality denim from Japan and the USA. Check out their pocket flashers, really cool! Great work guys, good luck!
Antonio di Battista is besides a great denim collector, with an extremely huge and rare collection, the founder of Blue Blanket Jeans. The Blue Blanket collection contains some classic authentic jeans and blue tops. One of them is this great denim shirt. The specifics of the shirts are;
- Japanese pure indigo selvage chambraix.
- Hand stamped internal tag.
- Removable brass logo buttons applied with O ring.
- Fish eye buttons in real corozo.
- Shuttle loom care label made in Japan.
Old denim jackets with a customized back panel are my favorites. In the ’60′s and ’70′s a lot of bikers and hippies started to make this trend because they wanted to express themselves or they wanted to show their membership from a club. But also commercial companies did this personalisation on the back of jackets as workwear garments for their employees. This particular Lee Jeans Rider jacket from the ’70′s is in my private collection for a while and it has a nice chain stitched back. The jacket is made from a left hand fabric which feels very soft because it’s washed a lot during the years by the pre-owner(s). Check out this ‘Blue Ridge Pool Service’ jacket.
With recovered material from the archives, Roy Roger’s from Italy presents a heritage collection which is vintage inspired featuring an unique eye for details like the raw selvedge denim, contrasting stitchings and vegetal tanned labels: the Rugged Collection. Roy Roger’s Rugged grounds its roots on the historic archives of the company and celebrates the collective imagination of the American world of the 40′s and 50′s. The collection is an alternative to the regular menswear line, yet staying close to the roots of the brand, offering quality denim and handmade in Italy pieces.
Drawing inspiration by the vintage world, the Roy Roger’s Rugged collection is a journey throughout legitimacy. A trip across the American imagery, from hotrods and bikes inspirations, to raw denim and washed chambrays, where each piece of the collection recalls the authentic spirit of enduring freedom of USA roads. Roy Roger’s Rugged chose for this cool photo set models Jimmy Q, a pro skateboarder and tattoo artist, and Ricki Hall, who has been nominated from Esquire Weekly “The man with the most influential haircut in Britain” this year. A deeply evocative photo-shooting seen trough the lens of the camera of the photographer Luca Campri.
Check the collection at www.sevenbell.com
Dumluck is a one man show denim brand by Kenley Chittick from Holland. Kenley just released his new collection called The Third. The whole collection is made by hand using industrial vintage machines. One of the best parts of the brand is that he only use deadstock fabrics from the best mills like Cone Mills from the U.S. and Kuroki from Japan. In his Third collection he added some great new styles like several denim jackets, shirts (also an extra long selvage denim shirt called Act S, really nice!) and of course denims. Kenley combines authentic craftmanships and new silhouettes which give a new look and feel. Well done Kenley and congrats! Check below some images from his Third collection.
Ben Fokkema, founder of denim brand Amsterdenim, did an interview for the Dutch television. In the interview Ben talks about his brand, drive, energy and passion to reach his goals with Amsterdenim. Always nice and inspiring to see this authentic man speaking. Check it out! (sorry Dutch language only)
Recently I got my hands on this Lee Jeans ‘Farmers Fair’ Rider jacket. This jacket is a re-production of the original from the fifties. On the farmers fair in the U.S. in 1957 they reached out a denim jacket to the best farmer of that year. The best farmer was M.U. Aggies, his name is embroidered on the front of the jacket. On the back there’s a beautiful horseshoe with the date of the fair. It was the 52nd fair. The jacket is Union Made with a left hand non-selvage fabric. The original jacket, what was the inspiration of this repro, was found in Italy. Can you imagine what a nice story this is how the jacket came in Italy from a farmer from the U.S. Guess we will never know. Anyway, I’m glad with this item in my private collection. Lee on his best!
Evisu Jeans from Japan made 10 years ago a homage to Levi’s, Lee and Wrangler. Each homage jean had the specifics of the original brand. The branding on the back pockets were made in Evisu style, with their famous paint. I have these specials in my private collection for a while, but I was still searching for the final 4th item, the Levi’s Jeans Orange Tab. Finally I got my hands on a deadstock pair, so now this collection is completed! The jean is really nice, made out of a slubby Japanese two colour selvedge. And of course the orange tab on the back is amazing! Check it out here below.
Evisu Jeans Homage to Levi’s Red Tab – Lee Jeans – Wrangler
The Manabe denim family from the brands Momotaro and Japan Blue are always making really high premium quality jeans. Made by their traditional Japanese craftsmanship on old small shuttle looms. Their president Hisao Manabe announced the launch of its latest product “Cote d’Ivoire Cotton Jeans” in their denim brand Japan Blue Jeans. The product is made from hand-picked cotton from the Republic of Cote d’Ivoire and will be available worldwide from November 26th, 2014. This jean will be available through their flagship store, online and only 10 selected retail shops in- and outside of Japan. Really nice one, check the two colour selvage!
Maple Motorcycle jeans made a technical jeans for bikers. Their goal was to make a pair of jeans which has a cool outside look, but with a lined inside with kevlar for the ultimate protection while riding the bike. The jean is made in Los Angeles for premium quality. They used a Cone Mills 13oz rigid selvage fabric. Check the video for all the features of this Maple Motorcycle Straight Cut – 1941 pair of jeans.
The winter is coming so it’s getting colder. Time to put on your Long John’s under your jeans. Pike Brothers from Germany made a nice red one. The origins of this historic piece dates back to the 17th century. But it was not until the late 1900′s and especially amongst cowboys where long johns had their peak. This pair of Long John was made after an original pattern from the 1930s. It is comfortable and in combination with their brushed jersey also very warm. Prepare yourself with a Long John.
Paul Kruize from Holland is an one man, one machine denim maker company. He makes jeans for everybody personal by taking the right measurements of your body so the jean will finally fits like a glove. This is a really unique process and not common when someone makes every time a new pattern. It’s really labour intensive. You can choose your favorite fit, spare parts like buttons, rivets and thread and of course your favourite fabric. I know he’s using high quality like Japanese and American fabrics. So finally you will get your dream pair of denim. Very cool!
Paul made a mini documentary with Richard Bussink. The entire making process from taking measurements, drafting a pattern, cutting the denim to making the jeans, shown in one continuous flow. So relax and check out this true craftsman. Nice one Paul, well done!
Atelier de L’Armée launched their new Fall Winter 2014 lookbook. They created Atelier de l’Armée Series. This collection is for the the every day city cyclist, the outdoorsman and the adventure seeker who likes to travel in style. The collection is made in a small family owned factory in the Netherlands. As always they made something really nice, enjoy their lookbook and of course their beautiful products. Congrats Elza & Joost!
This vintage deadstock Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus is in my private collection for a while, but never showed on my blog. It’s a typical pair of denim from the mid ’70′s featuring the orange tab on the back pocket. In the ’70′s Levi’s Jeans made a new fabric called Dura Plus. Dura Plus was a fabric that was made of a mix of 54% cotton and 36% polyester to give you comfort, minimize wrinkling and reduce shrinkage. It was one of the heaviest Levi’s fabrics ever made so far. A true 1970′s tough denim. The fit is a classic hippy flare pipe model and the blue colour is amazing, deeply indigo blue. Check also the funny original tv commercial which they used to promote this new fabric.
Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus TV Commercial
Levi’s Jeans Dura Plus Kids Advertising from 1977
Black Rabbit is a fresh new brand and it looks damn good. I know the people behind this brand have a lot of experience in the fashion industry, and this is what you see in their products. All of them are worked out with a lot of details, great fabrics and fits. One of my personal favourites it this Talos jacket. The jacket features a detachable hood with a storm-flap which can be deployed forward or folded back. The garment is lined with wool blanket with special cutouts below the armholes to reduce bulk and augment ventilation. The lower edge of the lining is free, which aids in drying out when wet. Details include the following: a double belt, front closure using twin over-size hooks, cuff regulators, hidden pocket-flap plackets, extra wide twin-needle stitching and a shaping-dart at the throat. All in all a killer jacket. Check the site of Black Rabbit as it is online since a couple of days!
Great new denim project for Endrime Jeans from UK. Their latest special edition is a Made in Japan jeans, 50 pieces only. They worked closely with Collect and Okamoto Denim mills – who are both based in Kojima – Japan, to develop the fabric. The first 25 pieces from the 50 run have been sold exclusively into London boutique denim store: Son of a Stag. Mohsin made a great video for this project. Good work Mohsin Sajid, looking forward to see the jean!
SJC founder Simon James Cathcart began SJC with the objective of creating a link between specialist communities circling the fringes of men’s fashion. These groups range from music, denim, leather, suiting, iron work, motorbikes, jewellery, bulldogs and fighting.
SJC founder Simon James Cathcart
The Hellcat Denim Dungarees are made from 18oz Japanese one wash selvage denim that has been woven on shuttle looms in a 1920′s style to create a very dark, crispy, denim. Only 101 pairs of these were be produced. The cut is a synthesis of WW2 commission denim, prison and work pants of the 40′s. Check out this great brand.