Deadstock Resurrection is a new initiative from Peter Overbeek from Holland. DR will be the new kid in de denim-clothing industry with references to bikes, tattoo and authentic denim. Their philosophy is to re-use, re-claim and re-construct. They approach is creating new, one-off designs that transform surplus fabric and apparel. Apparel stocks from around the world. Their extensive global network sources small quantities of high-quality apparel and fabrics. These surplus stocks would be discarded so by reviving them they are helping to preserve the world’s precious resources. Eveything will be handcrafted in the Netherlands. Each design transformation is produced by hand in limited editions, never to be repeated. Their workshop in the Netherlands customized apparel labels, artworks, prints, patterns, trimmings and the details by hand. This gives each garment a rich and distinctive character, and exclusivity is guaranteed.
During the Amsterdam Denim Days they will officialy launch their brand at the denim Flea Market. Below some sneak images to give you a small insight from their first collection. Look out for Deadstock Resurrection!
Edwin Jeans is established in Japan in 1947. They were one of the first denim producers in Japan. Founder Mr. Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import USA made, Levi’s Jeans, to the United States. In those times there wasn’t a denim manufacturer in Japan. The first Edwin jeans was crafted in 1961. The name Edwin came from utilising the letters from the word denim, and reversing the letter M to create a W. The big worldwide breakthrough was in the ’80′s when they launched a new washing, the famous stone washing.
Nowadays the Edwin brand is still up and running and they continued the same quality and authenticity as back in the days when they started. Recently I received one of their most popular fits from this moment, the ED-55. The ED-55 fit is a relaxed tapered jean. My pair is made of red listed Japanese 14oz selvage fabric. The jean has a button fly, brown leather patch and contrast arcuates stitching on the back pockets (which are also reinforced and lined). There’s also a woven ‘E’ tab label on the right pocket, something I think it’s a great subtle branding. Check out the detail pics here below from this well made in Japan brand! Many thanks Maureen from PR agency Back to Back and the Edwin crew for sending a pair! Stay raw.
Established in May 2013, the Hoya Apparel brand from Indonesia is named after a tropical plant. In their own words: ”We are focused to make the products the best and durable “machinery” that support your various activities. With “form follow function” principles, we recognize craftsmanship in an object’s functionality. Using best and selected materials, crafted by skilled hands, we truly deliver you a remarkable experience in our products”.
The pair below is made from 13.5oz right hand Cone Mills fabric. Looking forward to see more of this brand in the future!
Deadstock Atelier LaDurance Kiddies Longies workwear denim pants. This deadstock pair has still the original hangtag and repair bullit. Didn’t see these small ones so often. The pants is made from 11oz Japanese non-selvage denim. It features all the classic ALD details. This small one is for the cool kids! Great addition in my private collection.
Eat Dust just launched their latest new products on their site. The core of the brand is jeans, but they also develop really cool tops. For Spring / Summer they come with new additions in their collection t-shirts, shirts, sweats and the long awaited Riders denim jacket. Especially the the denim jacket is my favourite. Check for the full line-up their site.
Spijkerbij is an initiative by Leonie and Lois from Holland. They came up with the idea when they saw that a lot of old jeans were thrown away by people without doing anything with it. And the fact that for the production of jeans a big amount of water is needed which isn’t re-used in the most factories. Not to forget that also chemicals are involved in the denim production. They wanted to do something with these facts and they came up with a cool recycle idea. For the Spijkerbrij production they tear up old denims in small rags and throw them in a kind of blender with some glu. After mixing these together they put the blend into a bow tie mal with the result that the old denims come back to live in a new and fresh product. The bow tie is a perfect accessory and an unique addition on your denim outfit. You can book these girls for (store) events where they show-up with their own made denim work bench. Spijkerbrij is a great concept and they make a good statement that you can make something cool from old stuff. Check Spijkerbrij here below and see in the video how it works. Keep it up!
When Dutch denim brand Atelier LaDurance entered the jeans market in 2002 they did something totally different than the rest. Their workwear inspired silhouettes from the ’40′s and ’50′s were classic and authentic. What the brand made distinctive was the branding, done by graphic designer Boy Bastiaens. Boy gave the brand an unique feel, something I still admire from his long and successful career. As I have a lot of the ALD styles in my private collection, I recently got my hands on this deadstock kids jacket. It’s the Novelty Jacket, a workwear blazer made from hickory stripe fabric. When I saw this jacket I got the same feeling as back in 2002 when Gerard Backx launched his brand. Still a pity that the brand isn’t there anymore…But this jacket is waiting for my little girl when she’s a little bit older. She can wear it perfectly with an original Levi’s Big E red line selvage jeans.
Red Cotton Denim is a denim brand founded by Camillo Love from Oakland – US. His brand is what we call an one man show as he’s doing everything by himself. Read below his story (the short version) in his own words how he started, where his inspiration came from and about his first order. Keep up the great craftsmanship Camillo!
”Back in 1999, I was stationed in Japan on the USS Kitty Hawk as an engineer with the Navy. I found a new appreciation for American made products when I saw how much the Japanese valued the quality of anything handmade in America. When I came back to the States, I worked for friends in the trades who owned their own businesses, cutting trees and building houses. Once I set my mind to making jeans, I was lucky enough to meet The Guy in San Francisco who knew everything about manufacturing denim. He was a sailor too and took the time to explain the business to me. Around the same time, I also met a guy in Oakland who was making kick ass jeans from start to finish by himself. He shared his knowledge about denim and machines with me and inspired me to follow my heart in making handcrafted denim. A few months ago, I landed my first order with a store in San Francisco. Crafting dozens of jeans by myself in only two weeks was a real test. And the start to realizing my dream. My ignorance at how hard it could be got me started. As I learned how much is involved, my determination kept me from giving up. My passion for hard work and quality American made goods is what you’ll find at Red Cotton Denim, from hand-sewn Cone Mills denim to the hand stamped leather patches”.
Amsterdam based bracelet brand Pig&Hen just launched their new lookbook for summer 2015. All their products are handmade in Holland using authentic ship rope. The products is a great addition to your denim outfit. The story behind the brand is pretty cool, for those who don’t know it yet, here you go…
In the early 1600’s the Dutch were the leading nation sailing out to unknown parts of the world, with the biggest naval fleet the world had ever seen. With some serious sea legs, they discovered new lands, different ways of life but also ran into some big obstacles along the way. To protect themselves against bad luck the men had a tattoo of a pig and a hen on their feet. It was believed it gave the sailors the ability to survive when they had to abandon ship. The sailors felt they would be able to find land, just like the Pig and Hen who were kept in wooden crates and thus floated, and would let the tide bring them home. Pig&Hen will save your life, even in a tight situation.
Check the lookbook here below. Pig&Hen, stronger than steel!
Recently we launched with Butts and Shoulders our new line called ‘The Rough’. This collection contains variations on our beloved ‘Virgin’ line. It has the same bold Butts and Shoulders style and the same attention it deserves. Clean and classic with a lot of style. The new collection features the 3 core products of the brand: Travel Bag, Worker Bag and the Post Bag. All the models are now available in four new treated leather variations: brown (cognac), dark brown, dark green (army) and striped black leather. The branding on every bag is done by hand, sprayed, which will age beautiful after use. Every bag has a small virgin leather detail to make a link to our ‘Virgins’. This line is also made in Holland in limited quantities. Some of them are already sold, so be quick. Meet below some of the members from The Rough collection.
The Bakery Store in Reusel, the South of Holland, is a new denim store, and something special, an one of a kind. Last Wednesday they opened their doors for the first time and I went their to see this new retail concept by myself. The cool thing about this store is that it’s located in an old bakery. They made everything, in all details, original to a real bakery from back in the days. The authentic look and the sweet smell from fresh bread and homemade cookies gives you a special feeling when you enter the store. In the front you can buy the original The Bakery bread and there’s also space to sit and relax with a cup of coffee. They even serve cold Vedett beers. The denim collection is a mix with heritage, or related, brands like Denham, Red Wing, Clarks, Nudie Jeans, Deus, Kings of Indigo, Indigo People, Edwin, Pig & Hen. The more commercial brands are Diesel, Replay, Scotch, Drykorn, Minimum, etc. The good thing about this store is that they perfectly combine experience with products. This togehter made that it’s more than only a store, it’s a great hang-out to meet people as well. Good luck denim bakers!
Last week I already posted the pics from the s.Oliver blogger event at their pop-up store in Amsterdam. I was asked to give a workshop to tell the female bloggers the denim story: From cowboys to catwalk. s.Oliver made a nice video about this special event, which give you the right feel good feeling of the evening. You can check the video here below as it is now online. Enjoy!
Ben Fokkema, the founder of Amsterdenim, is always doing cool and original things to get attention for his denim brand. The authentic tanning process, which is very old and famous of the sailing sails back in the days, is such an unique thing. He had the idea to make the first tanned denim jeans. He’s doing this special event with his retailers. This time on the legendary PC. Hooftstraat in Amsterdam. Such an event is really uncommon, especially in this high-end street. Check it out for yourself and watch how a denim got tanned. The video is shot by talented Tim Collins. Till soon Ben!
Nudie Jeans teamed up with Oil Polloi – British retailer to do a special collaboration with their Grim Tim style. The inspiration of this exclusive collab were the neon lights on the wet streets which give a special rainbow effect. They translated this effect on the back pocket stitching and the rainbow selvage which turned-out really special. The jean is made in Italy and the fabric is Japanese 14oz ring-spun denim. All the jeans are numbered and will come in a special box with the leather belt as closure. This Nudie Jeans x Oi Polloi Grim Tim Dry Rainbow was launched on February 26 and is made in 1.000 pairs.
My buddies Rob Harmsen en Keith Hioco from Eat Dust about their collaboration with Stance. In the interview you can see and hear how they created this collab and give you more insight in the process. This upcoming Sunday they will launch the socks at Antwerp based store Kings and Queens in Belgium. If you’re in the neighbourhood, check it out for yourself!
Brave Star Selvage was born in 2005 when they got an invitation from the legendary Cone Mills fabric factory to view their first selvedge denim collection. Cone Mills launched the newly White Oak label. Mik Serfontaine is the founder of this L.A. – U.S.A. based denim brand. Last week I received a pair from Mik to see the brand for the first time in real live. I was really surprised by the fit, fabric and details. The jean which I received is the Slim Straight. The entire production of this jean takes place at Brave Stars own facility in downtown Los Angeles. It’s sewn entirely on vintage Reece and Singer sewing machines. The chain stitching is done using only the best, a Union Special 43200G. The denim fabric of this particularly jean is a 14.75oz right hand twill blue Cone Mills selvage. The embroidered star insignia on the right back pocket represents ‘Made in America’ status. All the hardware is made in Kentucky and the leather back patch is cut and stamped in Los Angeles. The waistband label is woven locally in Los Angeles.
All in all a really nice clean classic denim made of high standards but available for a really sharp price. Think these Brave Stars are the best priced selvage jeans in the market if you check all the rich specifics. Check the jean here below to get an impression. Thanks Mik for sending me a pair. Good luck with your brand!
Last Friday s.Oliver organised a denim blogger event in their pop-up store in Amsterdam. They opened the pop-up store to promote the new denim line for men and women. The blogger event was organised for female Dutch bloggers, to make them enthusiastic about the new brand strategy. I was asked to do a denim workshop to tell and show the denim story ‘From cowboys to catwalk’. Also famous Dutch stylist Fred van Leer was at the event to show the girls the latest fashion trends. Of course there was some great food and drinks afterwards and some nice tunes. The event was hosted by pr company The Image Factory. They did a really good job! It was a pleasure to share my denim knowledge at this nice denim event. Hope you are feeling a little bit more blue now! Till next time.
Amsterdam based denim store Tenue de Nîmes visited the legendary Trickers store in London last October to create a series of Trickers x Tenue de Nîmes shoes. Trickers established in 1829 is a classic UK footwear brand. The first collab shoe is a 21st century blue version of the Trickers Burton country shoe. The lining of this heavy brogue Derby is made of blue leather and the shoe is soled with brown Dainite rubber. The Burton is characterised by the bellows tongue, storm welt and leather uppers and linings. The exclusive Tenue de Nîmes x Trickers collaborations are hand-made in England and come with an additional pair of laces as well as leather conditioner to take good care of your shoes. Every pair is signed with a golden Trickers x Tenue de Nîmes logo. Meet the first of the series, the indigo blue ones.