Got my hands on this really nice and heavy worn original vintage Lee Jeans 101-J (Jacket) from the ’50′s. It’s the popular Rider jacket which was introduced in 1931. It was a slim denim jacket made for cowboys. The Rider jacket has some features for cowboys like the inward breast pockets which made it easier for them to reach inside the pocket with the opposite hand, especially when riding a horse. It also has a wider waistband for a better fit making sure the jacket didn’t fold upwards. On the back you see the famous cat-eye buttons.
My jacket has the red/yellow neck label which refers to the ’50′s. This label was made from 1955 to 1962. The start of the cool rock & roll era. It’s completely faded and worn-out. In these times they stitched clothing with cotton thread and over wearing the thread broke at several places. That’s why you see lots of old denim pieces are broken onto the sleeves and at the front and the back. Later they develop cotton thread combined with polyester which is much stronger. The jacket is a nice denim history addition in my private collection. Check the jacket here below!
This season the Italian brand Roy Roger’s comes with a collection as a tribute to the summer! The collection is an eclectic mix of floral and Hawaiian patterns. It’s a tribute to JFK style and the world of surfing, mixing both distinctive traits in a collection that speaks about refined elegance in its simplicity. Highlights of the collection are the classic Oxford button-down shirts with the contemporary flavor of the overprinting: flowers, pin-ups, american trucks and pineapples are the main characters of the SS15 men’s collection. Let’s start the summer!
The collection is also available on Roy Roger’s shop-on-line at:
Denim.Lab is founded by Sander van de Vecht from Holland. After working for several denim brands Sander decided to choose his own denim road. He’s active in the denim industry for many years and is very experienced. He put all his knowledge in Denim.Lab and develops denim collections as private label for several big chain stores in Holland and also for denim brands. His showroom / office is something really cool. It’s the ultimate surrounding for every denimhead. Filled with the most beautiful selvage qualities from all over the world. I like the industrial look combined with the clean walls. Sander is also working with Denim.Lab as a seperate denim label. Recently I got a regular tapered from his collection. The jean is made from 13.5oz right hand deadstock rigid selvage quality. Straight classic fit with some nice features like the leather patch (from Italy), the old school rivets, the fully lined inside yoke and inside pockets with chambray. Also the backpockets are lined! The coin pocket has a selvage as well. And what it makes really outstanding is that the jean is packed in a cotton bag. All in all a perfect product! Something to check it our for yourself on his website. Thanks Sander and keep up the good work!
Denim.Lab Showroom – Office
Denim.Lab Regular Tapered Jean
Received some pics from my buddy Wouter Reimert from Vif Jeans (www.vifjeans.nl) - Rijssen (NL) from a nice worn-out Homage to Lee Jeans by Evisu Jeans. Their customer Erik Meijer is wearing this beauty for a lot of years already. The jean has a really nice vintage fading pattern. Well done Erik!
- Owner: Erik Meijer from Wierden, Holland
- Brand: Evisu Jeans – Homage to Lee Jeans (Part of the Homage to Levi’s – Lee & Wrangler Jeans collection)
- Age: +/- 9 years
Send your worn-out project to: firstname.lastname@example.org
Received yesterday a great package from Livd. Livd is a creative design atelier founded by Linda van Deursen en Dejan Toskic in Utrecht – NL. They create the most beautiful creations for the fashion, music and theatre business. Besides that they make handmade products like the canvas totebag which I got from them. The tote bag or shopper is made from high standard canvas and leather. Simple but timeless design. Also the packaging was something different, an envelope which was made with a sewing machine. Very original. Check some of their cool rojects on their website. Thanks for the great gift Linda and Dejan!
The Japanese boro style is popular at the moment. You see different variations in the denim collections from several brands. All inspired by the repaired and patched items from the authentic farmers and fishermens in Japan. Nudie Jeans developed a nice tee with this inspiration as well, Raw Hem T-Shirt Organic Boro Blue. This print is inspired by an antique futon cover. The patchwork print will differ slightly, making each one unique. The tee itself is made in soft, slubby jersey. Clean look with narrow neck rib in self fabric and raw edge roll up hems at sleeve and bottom. Nice one!
My buddy Sebastian Gerritsen from Kurt’s Amsterdam launched his fresh Kickstarter project this week. Sebastian started his brand a couple of years ago with beautiful handwoven scarves. After this success he added a classic workwear jacket in his collection, also handmade, handwoven and coloured with natural indigo. With his Kickstarter project he want to promote his new t-shirt range which is made from hemp and natural indigo.
Sebastian Gerritsen – Founder Kurt’s Amsterdam
The new t-shirts range is made from high quality hemp with beautiful and modern designs, that are durable and are produced locally by real craftsmen. With the combination of hemp and natural indigo the unique t-shirts are made from sustainable materials, printed with traditional techniques of silk screening or dyed in indigo.
With Kurt’s he believes that he should again follow his heart when making clothing. Something which the fashion industry of today has lost when fast fashion came to the stage. With that, a few beautiful and sustainable techniques and crafts have been forgotten. That’s what he want to change. All the t-shirts are manufactured in Porto, Portugal.
He took a deep dive into the old techniques, fibers and production processes and found the answer in hemp, natural indigo dying and silkscreen printing. Hemp is a long forgotten and truly sustainable fiber that is comfortable, strong and breathable. In their opinion it is the perfect material to make clothing. In silkscreen printing and natural indigo dying we came upon the workmanship we were looking for. At Kurt’s they share a love for natural indigo (indigofera tinctoria Linn), a central theme used in all of their products.
Check the Kickstarter project here:
Two weeks ago during the Blueprint Event in Amsterdam (part of the Amsterdam Denim Days) the second edition of the Denim Market was a fact. This time the outdoor market was located at the entrance of the event in an old school greenhouse. On the Denim Market you could spot the newest and coolest denim products; clothing, accessories, vintage, footwear, jeans, etc. The exhibitors were Concrete Matter, Butcher’s Vintage Shop (from Butcher of Blue), Pig & Hen, Kurt’s, Blue Days Footwear, DenimLab, Spijkerbrij, Deadstock Resurrection, Liza Witte, Misc, Witloft and more. The vibe was very inspiring! Looking forward to see the next edition! Check below some snapshots.
Sarva is a Swedish brand which is specialised in functional outdoor and made in Sweden jeans. Sami people are nomads, spending 365 days a year outdoors. To do that you need proper equipment that can withstand hard conditions and extreme weather. With this in mind they created Sarva – Functional outdoor. Wind and waterproof garments that keep you both warm and dry and at the same time looks good. They have been working very close with their family and relatives with these products to get everything right: details, function and durability.
In the late 70′s all Swedish factories had to close down due to cheaper competition overseas. Sarva found one small factory that has kept their machines and knowledge from the glory days of Swedish textile production. So now they can offer you jeans that is manufactured in their home country. Check here below the making of a pair of Sarva selvage jeans.
During the Blueprint event – Amsterdam Denim Days – Bob Rijnders showed his latest collection of his brand Butcher of Blue. Next to jeans Bob developed some crazy tops as well. He also did a collab with Armor Lux. Bob has one of the best denim stores in Holland, located in the pittoresque Hoogland village near Amersfoort. About two years ago Bob decided to launch his own denim. He made something unique, something special as the Butcher of Blue. One of the best details is the hook on the back pocket which become more visible after hard wearing. Of course Bob also put a lot of sweat, tears and rock & roll in his first pair ever made. The result is extremely nice! This is how every denimhead should treat his jeans. It has an amazing fading and is patched and repaired a lot of times in the two years of non-stop wearing. Well done Bob! ”In the land of the pig, the butcher is king!”.
Bob Rijnders (Best of Brands stores / Butcher of Blue)
◾Owner: Bob Rijnders (owner Butcher of Blue brand) - Holland
◾Brand: Butcher of Blue
◾Age: 2 years old
◾Treatment: One rinse and a lot of repairs
Send your worn-out project to: email@example.com
Bob Rijnders from the famous Dutch denim store Best Of Brands – BOB located in Hoogland (NL) is launching his new denim collection during the Amsterdam Denim Days this week. He will show for the first time his brand new collection at the Blueprint event. One of the specials from the collection is the hook up with authentic label Armor Lux. The Armor Lux brand is started in 1938 in Quimper, France, and is known for their originality of its maritime inspired garments and excellent quality. All their collections are inspired by French tradition and the values conveyed by the sea.
The collab version of the hero piece the Sweat Bouclette Heritage Sweatshirt made of 100% pure cotton and napped on the inside will have the brands logo’s both being a hook and anchor imprinted on the shirt. In total there will be only 250 limited edition unisex shirts available with the retail price of € 89,95. The first 50 will be sold at the Blueprint and the rest will be sold via the Butcher of Blue store in Hoogland and via the webshop: www.butcherofblue.com/shop/ as of end of April 2015.
Next to items as shirts, sweats and t-shirts in the new collection, Bob will also launch two 100% Italian made iconic selvedge denims with the support of the well-known denim mill Candiani. Looking forward to see it by myself this week. Below a sneak peak from the collab with Armor Lux. Congrats Bob!
Dutch denim brand Kings of Indigo is doing it very good last seasons with expanding their business. Their top products are made on old school small shuttle looms. They use only the very best organic and recycled selvage fabrics from Italy and Japan for the Kings of Shuttle loom premium range. The selvage fabrics are slowly woven on authentic shuttle loom machines with a narrow width of 29’’ for the best quality. The machines are slightly trembling, resulting in an uneveness in the fabric which makes each piece an one of a kind and thus extra special. Check the cool brand and the video of the production process here below. Keep an eye on this Dutch blue denim pride!
Mark Westmoreland is the founder of ‘The One Goods’ brand. Mark is a well known denim designer which launched his own brand. Every product is created by specialists, using vintage machinery and traditional methods. Every product is therefore unique and made in very limited numbers. Meet below The One jean from The One Goods.
Every garment has a hand embroidered label – every one is different
One piece fly is standard
Brass Hartt waistband button
Every batch of the one denim jean come with a variety of 10 different leather waistband patches. Each one is then hand branded – usually 1-10 but there are some exceptions.
All one jeans are made from the finest 14oz Japanese narrow loom denim
Their spade pocket, reinforcement stitch varies – fractionally, from batch to batch
This teddy bear is made by Kapital clothing from Japan. Teddy bears are going way back. The teddy bear is a soft toy in the form of a bear. Developed apparently by toymakers Morris Michtom in the US and Richard Steiff in Germany in the early years of the 20th century, and named after President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt, Jr. Kapital used for this teddy bear blue indigo rags to create the look of the old Japanese boro’s. The teddy has a great pallet of blue shades. Pretty cool friend for the small indigo kids!
The last few seasons you see more and more black denims in jeans collections. And of course also shuttle loom made black selvage denims. Black coloured denims won’t fade the same way as indigo does. The black penetrates the fiber all the way through, making it almost impossible to get the same contrast as a blue pair of jeans. You could get some moustaches and honeycombs and such, but when washing it, the color will fade and make it grey. I know a black denim looks really cool and rock and roll, but I personally prefer the blue dry ones. Especially because these will age very nice with your own pattern over time. But Nudie Jeans made a cool black dry selvage with their Steady Eddie fit. And the result of wearing looks great after months of wearing. Below some detail shots of this black beauty.
Worn for 6 months
Edwin Jeans is established in Japan in 1947. They were one of the first denim producers in Japan. Founder Mr. Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import USA made, Levi’s Jeans, to the United States. In those times there wasn’t a denim manufacturer in Japan. The first Edwin jeans was crafted in 1961. The name Edwin came from utilising the letters from the word denim, and reversing the letter M to create a W. The big worldwide breakthrough was in the ’80′s when they launched a new washing, the famous stone washing.
Nowadays the Edwin brand is still up and running and they continued the same quality and authenticity as back in the days when they started. Recently I received one of their most popular fits from this moment, the ED-55. The ED-55 fit is a relaxed tapered jean. My pair is made of red listed Japanese 14oz selvage fabric. The jean has a button fly, brown leather patch and contrast arcuates stitching on the back pockets (which are also reinforced and lined). There’s also a woven ‘E’ tab label on the right pocket, something I think it’s a great subtle branding. Check out the detail pics here below from this well made in Japan brand! Many thanks Maureen from PR agency Back to Back and the Edwin crew for sending a pair! Stay raw.
Established in May 2013, the Hoya Apparel brand from Indonesia is named after a tropical plant. In their own words: ”We are focused to make the products the best and durable “machinery” that support your various activities. With “form follow function” principles, we recognize craftsmanship in an object’s functionality. Using best and selected materials, crafted by skilled hands, we truly deliver you a remarkable experience in our products”.
The pair below is made from 13.5oz right hand Cone Mills fabric. Looking forward to see more of this brand in the future!