The first jeans was developed for the workers in the mines during the ‘Gold Rush’ period in California. Pike Brothers developed a Miner Pant with the typical iconic features of those miner pants with their 1908 pants. The pants has some nice details as reinforced knees, one large back pocket, hammerloop, suspender buttons, high waist with comfort fit and button fly. For the Miner pants Pike Brothers used hemp denim, 14oz selvage hemp denim. The denim is 50% hemp and 50% cotton making it rich in structure and sturdy in construction. It is a denim fabric with an extraordinary character. This pants will take you back to the good old Gold days!
Tomorrow we will launch our ‘Butts and Shoulders’ boots at the Dutch fashion fair Modefabriek in Amsterdam. The boots are made with the classic ‘Goodyear Welted’ construction, all hand numbered, made from natural tanned leather and made in Portugal. The first run are 100 pairs only. Great to see you there. Below a sneak peak from our stand display. Cheers!
We made a road – production movie of our Portugal trip, check it here:
Blue de Gênes is a denim label from Denmark which takes their inspiration from the origin of jeans. That’s also how they came up with their strong name, Blue de Gênes. Their name refers to the time that harbor workers in Genoa, Italy, used to wear clothes made of the fabric Geanes fustian. This fabric was dyed in indigo, very strong and perfect for work pants. This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genoa, or in French “Bleu de Gênes”. English adaptation of the expression then became “Blue Jeans”.
The jeans of the Scandinavian brand are the basis of Blue de Gênes. All their jeans are made in Italy, meaning the entire process from stitching to washing. The jeans all have branded vintage buttons and rivets. The back pockets are made with extra covered rivets, which promises a strong hold. Their shirts are inspired by old worker shirts. Shirts have the characteristic Blue de Gênes branded real corozo hard nut buttons. The shirts are made in natural materials using cotton, hemp, linen and wool. Some fabrics are made on old selvedge looms and feature the characteristic red selvedge line. Most fabrics are from Italy and Japan. Below some shots from their Spring Summer ’16 collection.
You can check the new FW16 collection this weekend at the Dutch fashion fair Modefabriek in Amsterdam.
Founder Lennaert Nijgh of Benzak Denim Developers (BDD) explains the ’10 DETAILS OF A PAIR OF BDD JEANS’ in his latest video. Every pair of BDD jeans is designed and developed with a precise eye for detail. Every construction, stitch and trimming is there for a purpose. In this video Lennaert will guide you through 10 important details of a pair of BDD jeans.
The 10 details are: #1 hidden 6th pocket… #2 coin pocket #3 leather patch #4 waistband #5 back pockets #6 inseam #7 bottom hem #8 inside construction #9 spi & yarn thickness #10 labels, buttons & rivets.
Besides working as a freelance marketing and retail specialist in the denim industry, running this daily denim blog I am also one of the founders of the ‘Butts and Shoulders’ brand. Two years ago we started with ‘Butts and Shoulders’ as we wanted to share our passion for authenticity, craftsmanship and durable products. Our first product was the travel bag and soon after this first success we launched several other bags and small products.
One of our dreams was also to create our ultimate boot, a ‘Goodyear Welted’ boot. Not a collection, only one boot. Made with the highest standard that last you a lifetime. As with most of our products we used natural vegetable tanned leather, we call it virgin leather. This leather will age very nice with wear. The boots are made by hand in sunny Portugal and are all hand numbered to make them more special. The first run is made in 100 pairs only! We went to Portugal to make a promo video to show you the process and our vision behind our brand/boots. The video is made by the very talented Edwin van der Sande. Edwin did an amazing job with this film! Very proud to show you our boots and our road movie. Enjoy.
Unique hand numbered tongue
(this is number 2 of the 1st production run of 100 pairs)
Indigo People teamed-up again with Denham Jeans after their first successful collaboration. For the Spring 2016 collection, there are again two scarves that embody the spirits of both brands to show their love for indigo and authentic craftsmanship. Both scarves are created following the traditional Ikat technique, which is a resist dyeing process by binding the designed pattern on the weaving yarns with a tight wrap. After repeatedly dipped the bound yarns in natural indigo to reach the dark blue colour, the bindings are then removed to create the pattern directly on the handloom. Because the design is created in the yarns the pattern is visible at both sides of the fabric.
The Toru scarf has a simple yet contemporary plaid design that is formed by the irregular Ikat yarns in both the warp and the weft direction of the scarf. The rain effect of these ikat yarns gives an apparent blurriness to the plaid.
The Hajime scarf’s graphic design is inspired by Denham’s logo. The scissors have been abstracted and bound on the weft yarns. This weft Ikat technique is much slower to weave because the weft yarns must be carefully adjusted to maintain the clarity of the design. A misplaced yarn will destroy the entire pattern. It’s a highly labor-intensive process to create the scissor pattern of this scarf.
Both scarves will be available in the official Denham stores. Congrats guys with this second collab, it looks stunning as always!
Next week we’re going to launch our new family member of our ‘Butts and Shoulders’ brand, our ultimate ‘Gooyear Welted’ boot. The boots are made by hand in Portugal. We use natural vegetable tanned leather which will age very nice within time. Every pair is numbered by hand to make them more special. High quality boots for life, stay tuned!
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For Fall Winter 2016 ‘Blue Days Footwear’ is coming with a collection for men and women called ‘Brogue Selvedge’. The brand is founded by Yanto Drogt four years ago. He started the brand because he wanted to create a product with his two biggest passions: denim and footwear. All the styles are manufactured with great care in Portugal with only the finest materials and the highest quality selvedge denim fabrics from Italy combined with leather. For the F/W16 collection Yanto used the authentic brogue shoe as inspiration and gave this classic a fresh twist. Check some shots from the lookbook here below. Good luck with the sales Yanto!
Freenote clothing company creates classic American menswear and honors tradition by manufacturing it’s collection exclusively in the United States. They source the finest materials and demand the highest level of craftsmanship so theye can offer quality clothing that is made to last. They take their inspiration from authentic American culture and it’s timeless style icons.
The brothers Matt and Andrew Brodrick founded Freenote. They are located in the historic district of San Juan Capistrano, a town that embodies the rancho era of territorial California. It is the ideal home for Freenote, which embraces America’s rich heritage and its classic menswear. Below some snap shots of what they create, check out their site to explore more craftsmanship!
To celebrate the 7 years in business together, Edwin Jeans and Cultizm Store have put their heads together to create an exclusive 5 pocket jeans. They created a limited edition ED-80 fit made from 15.3oz slub pink listed selvage denim. The selvage fabric is made at the Kuroki Mill in Okayama, Japan. Kuroki Co Ltd is widely known for both it’s quality and durability, churning out some of the finest selvage denim in the world for well over 30 years, offering the complete denim production process, including dyeing, weaving and finishing. The collab is made in 58 pairs only, available now!
It has been over 70 years since Big John from Japan started their business as a small sewing factory in Kojima, Okayama. This city is now known as the denim capital of Japan. Big John manufactured the first made in Japan jeans in 1965, and developed the first Japanese denim fabric in 1972. The RURI fit is Big John’s original 14.5oz sanforized selvedge denim. The RURI fabric is based on the fabric of the M1002 PROTO model, which was the first jeans made under Big John brand in 1967 using the fabric imported from Cone Mills Co. The RURI is dyed with special dyeing technique in which dipping was reduced to about a quarter of normal dyeing process, creating the bright light blue color. This is a color traditionally called RURI in Japanese, named after a deep blue gem (Lapis Lazuli in English).
Strolling around Ebay to find new rare vintage items is one of my fav things to do in the weekends. I just came across this vintage Levi’s Jeans jacket from the ’70′s. It’s from their ‘Orange Tab’ line and the previous owner embroidered a great patch of an indian on the back. Perfect and classic combination! Couldn’t resist it to add it to my private collection.
Levi’s Jeans celebrates this year their 100-year anniversary with premium denim fabric manufacturer Cone Mills in White Oak, North Carolina. This partnership is known as ‘The Golden Handshake’. The Levi’s selvedge denim is produced on vintage looms with the signature red stitch signaling craftsmanship. They created special items this year for this celebration and to promote it they made this video here below.
The brothers from RedWhiteBlue Co are making the finest and extremely cool clothing. Their philosophy has always been designing clothes with the highest quality and details as possible. Always with quality over quantity, the old fashioned way. The process of making quality, detailed garments as they do, by a small, skilled and determined crew, goes through a tedious process. All of their products are handcrafted and sourced from within the USA. So when you receive a RWB Co. made piece, every stitch, rivet, buckle, and button has a piece of ther soul embedded. If you’re not familar with their brand, below some shots from their blog, but check out their site to explore and see the old craftsmanship from these guys!
To celebrate the 10th anniversary from the awesome denim store Sivletto they team-up with denim brand Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.). For this anniversary they launched a very special “limited edition collection” that will be available exclusively at the Sivletto shop and online and in the K.O.I. online store. This special collab contains 3 master pieces in rock and roll black. The first item which they created is a 13oz selvage jeans, straight fit black denim with detailing that make the denim extra special; a pocket flasher, pocket bag print and leather patch especially developed for the occasion. To complement the black denim, there is a 100% organic cotton tee made from 180gsm single jersey in, of course, black, with an authentic chest print, designed for the anniversary. The last item in the collection is a classic bandana, with the same special limited edition print, made from 100% organic 30’s poplin cotton with a black discharge print. Well done guys and congrats Sivletto with this milestone!
Last year Marc Nelson Denim team-up with Smooth Ambler to create a whiskey stained denim. Perfect combination. Never saw a denim tanned whiskey pair of jeans before. Really curious how this pair will smell. Enjoy the making of in the video here below.
Creative director and founder of Endrime Jeans Mohsin Sajid just uploaded a nice video of him teaching the Fashion BA students of Ravensbourn how to make a pair of selvage jeans. In the video Mohsin shows his huge passion and knowledge about denim. Mohsin is a very creative and true craftsman. Enjoy the video and go check out his brand as well! Well done mate!
Back from our Portugal trip where we started our first production run of our upcoming Butts and Shoulders hand made ‘Goodyear Welted’ boots. The boots are made with the best quality available, natural vegetable tanned leather. A boot that last a lifetime. Available in the beginning of January 2016! More about this later…
We’re off to Portugal to start-up our first run of our new upcoming Butts and Shoulders boots. The boots are made with the classic ‘Goodyear Welted’ construction and made by hand in an authentic small factory. Also for the boots we use our natural vegetable tanned leather which will age very. This project is going to be very exciting and promising. More info about the availability later. So for the upcoming days no updates on my blog as we’re working in the factory for this first run. Till soon!
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