Last week Atelier De L’Armée launched their amazing collaboration with Nigel Cabourn. The idea to make this special limited edition rucksack came out very natural as both are dedicated to old military bags, patterns and clothing. When both met eachother a few years ago Nigel was carrying his vintage Swiss army rucksack. They start talking about making a remake of this classic. They sourced the original fabric as they want to make the collab as close as the Original. Since it is highly unlikely to find a dead-stock roll of this 1960’s fabric we never thought the collab would actually happen. But after a year long search they were able to find a complete roll of selvage original Swiss army Salt & Pepper fabric and the collaboration was born.
The Salt & Pepper fabric had a cotton base when it was developed by Swiss army during the late 1930’s, but as cotton became rare during the years of war, nettle fibre was combined with cotton. This mix created a very rugged, waterrepellent and durable fabric. The selvage roll of fabric they found contained barely enough fabric to make a limited amount of 40 pieces. They combined the fabric with vegetable tanned leather. Although the bag is already sold-out at the webshop from Atelier De L’Armée, maybe you will have more luck at the Army Gym stores in London and Tokyo. Congrats with this very cool homage to the Swiss army bag! Bravo!
Although it’s still Summer I would like to give you a sneak preview of the new upcoming Indigo People Fall Winter 2016 collection. Indigo People is founded to share the love of traditional craftsmanship and natural indigo. For upcoming season Indigo People is bringing 3 new product groups in this new collection: t-shirts, bandanas and bags.
The Indigo People t-shirts and bandanas are produced following the authentic batik technique. The artworks are stamped or printed with hot wax to resist dye during the indigo dyeing process. The artworks are then cracked and the garments are manually dyed, piece by piece, in natural indigo. To reach the dark indigo colour, the dye master has to dip the garments up to 16 times in indigo. After dyeing, the garments are boiled in hot water to remove the wax. The printed artworks and the cracked lines remain their raw colour and appear on the garments.
The Indigo People bags are offered in 2 different fabrics: 17oz handwoven selvedge denim in natural indigo and 17oz handwoven batik denim. The 17oz selvedge denim is hand woven and hand dyed in natural indigo. The weft yarns are dipped about 16 times in natural indigo to get the dark colour.
Next to the new upcoming products Indigo People added also some new styles from their ties and scarves. All ties are made from fabrics that are natural indigo dyed and handwoven following the traditional ikat technique. The scarves are traditionally hand loomed and manually dyed in natural indigo following the ikat technique. Looking forward to see those beautiful items in store!
Eastpak is launching some very nice limited editions this upcoming September. Inspired by Japan’s long standing love affair with denim they produced together with the legendary Kuroki denim mill from Okayama – Japan, bags from selvedge fabrics. The bags will come in two different colours: light blue and dark denim. The bags contains special inside lining featuring koi fishes. Perfect timing for everyone who’s looking for a new outstanding bag!
Next to the Kuroki collab bags Eastpak will also launch a very very limited edition. Eastpak transformed vintage handmade Japanese “boro” denim – one of the rarest and most beautiful fabrics in the world – into what are undoubtedly the 5 most exclusive Padded Pak’r backpacks ever produced by Eastpak. Vintage Japanese “boro” is made from a patchwork of high-quality Japanese denim. Parts of the boro used for this unique limited edition collection are over 100 years old.
Each bag in this Eastpak limited edition “boro” collection is a unique tribute to the history of Japanese denim. The tradition of “boro” dates back to the 19th century when genuine denim was a rare and valuable commodity. Even small leftover pieces of fabric were kept and sewn together to create stunning patchworks that remain highly collectable to this day. No more than 5 Padded Pak’r backpacks have been handmade as part of this unique collaboration, each one destined to become a true collector’s item! The launch of these exclusive Eastpak boro backpacks will be as of the 1st of September, 2016.
Mosevic is an up and coming sunglasses brand and manufacturer from Cornwall, UK. After years of material and process exploration, they launched their first range of denim eyewear on Kickstarter in 2015. After this successful launch they now have a full line-up collection with denim eyewear.
Mosevic take discarded and damaged jeans and use the reclaimed fabric in their latest collection of Solid Denim eyewear. They recycle jeans of all shapes, sizes, colours and textures. Each pair of sunglasses is built from layers of these different denim fabrics using their unique, handcrafted process in their workshop in Cornwall, UK. From flashes of colour and subtle blue gradients to an explosion of textures each and every pair of sunglasses is completely unique. Batch 1 includes 6 different frame shapes and are now available at selected retailers and through their webshop.
How does it work?
Watch the introduction of Mosevic
Ondura is an one man army brand founded by Leens Jan Ondra in 2013. Ondura is based in Bünde Westfalen, a small town in Germany. Leens is born and raised in a small village, inspired by D.I.Y, punk music and subculture. Leens lived in a 6 m2 old army truck for nearly ten years. Due to this lifestyle, he became minimalist; less is more and quality will endure. After working as a carpenter he studied fashion design at the fine art school Berlin Weißensee where he graduated with distinction. After working unsatisfied for several years in the fashion industry as a designer, it was time to built his own brand with his passion for durable goods, so Ondura was born. Leens is using only the best of the best leather with Ondura, natural vegetable tanned which age very nice with use. Check below a selection of his high-end handmade products made by a true craftsman. Keep up the good work Leens!
Leens Jan Ondra
The 6 m2 old army truck
Blue de Gênes from Denmark just launched some great new items for Spring Summer 2016. The items are all made with authentic craftsmanship and loaded with rich details. Let’s highlight some of them here below.
The Blue de Gênes Vigo Harajuko Shirt, the Monta Rugged Waistcoat, the Gio N2 Jeans w1080, the Gari Belt and Scarf and Blue de Gênes Key Hanger.
The Blue de Gênes shirt button is made of corozo nut. (The Vigo Harajuko Shirt is inspired by old shirts and has a classical grandad opening. The particular stitching and patchwork details contribute to a fine vintage look).
Most of the Blue de Gênes shirts are inspired by old worker shirts. The shirts have the characteristic Blue de Gênes branded real corozo hard nut buttons. The shirts are made in natural materials using cotton, hemp, linen and wool. Some fabrics are made on old selfedge looms and feature the characteristic red selvedge line. Most fabrics are from Italy and Japan.
The Monta rugged Waistcoat is a tailored gillet/vest and has buffalo horn buttons.
The Gio N2 Jeans is a slim fit jean in indigo blue which is made in Italy. The Gari Belt is a co-lab belt made with together with Dukes Finest Artisans. It’s handmade and handpainted and tells the great story of the Italian general Giuseppe Garibaldis adventures. The Blue de Gênes Keyhanger is made of corosu nut where only parts of the shell is polished off to give it a rough look. It will start by being ivory white but over time it will take colour and get a roustiqe look.
Check more new items for SS16 here: www.blue-de-genes.com
Established in 2007, Indigofera is operating from it’s hometown Stockholm, Sweden and is founded by Mats Andersson. Indigofera garments are made with high standards in Portugal and in other specifically chosen locations in Europe. Their fabrics are milled in Japan, U.S.A. and Europe. Next to garments they also make beautiful blankets from 100% wool. These are made in Norway. The Indigofera blankets are great to use during campfires in the upcoming Spring/Summer nights.
My friends from the very respected denim platform ‘Heddels’ started something new. They launched the first product with their CO-OP series. The CO-OP series are collaborations with brands they admire to create limited runs of specialized products exclusively for ‘Heddels’ readers. The first CO-OP product is made with ‘Winter Sessions‘ are they developed a ‘Natural Indigo Bank Bag’. The collab bag is inspired by the bank bags which were the standard for almost all retail businesses to move their cash and checks from the store to the bank. The goal wasn’t to keep people from running off with the money, but just make sure it wasn’t tampered with and kept everyone honest. The ‘Heddels X Winter Sessions’ bank bag is produced with carry goods brand ‘Winter Session‘ and made entirely at their in-house workshop in Denver, Colorado. Their design is based off of vintage bank deposit bags from the 1950′s and 60′s, which featured a locking zipper. They replaced the lock with a snap leather stash pocket that secures the zipper in place.
The bank bag materials which are used include:
- · Cone Mills Natural Plant Indigo 16oz. selvedge denim
- · Hermann Oak veg-tanned 4oz. cowhide leather
- · Vintage mid-century cotton-taped Talon Zippers
- · Also included is a laser-cut and engraved commemorative wooden nickel
The Bank Bag will be available for sale on the Heddels Shop here: http://shop.heddels.com at 12pm noon EST on Monday, March 7.
Congrats guys with this new CO-OP milestone! Looking forward to see the next collab already, but I know it would be an one of a kind as well. Keep up the good work!
www.heddels.com & www.winter-session.com
Indigo People teamed-up again with Denham Jeans after their first successful collaboration. For the Spring 2016 collection, there are again two scarves that embody the spirits of both brands to show their love for indigo and authentic craftsmanship. Both scarves are created following the traditional Ikat technique, which is a resist dyeing process by binding the designed pattern on the weaving yarns with a tight wrap. After repeatedly dipped the bound yarns in natural indigo to reach the dark blue colour, the bindings are then removed to create the pattern directly on the handloom. Because the design is created in the yarns the pattern is visible at both sides of the fabric.
The Toru scarf has a simple yet contemporary plaid design that is formed by the irregular Ikat yarns in both the warp and the weft direction of the scarf. The rain effect of these ikat yarns gives an apparent blurriness to the plaid.
The Hajime scarf’s graphic design is inspired by Denham’s logo. The scissors have been abstracted and bound on the weft yarns. This weft Ikat technique is much slower to weave because the weft yarns must be carefully adjusted to maintain the clarity of the design. A misplaced yarn will destroy the entire pattern. It’s a highly labor-intensive process to create the scissor pattern of this scarf.
Both scarves will be available in the official Denham stores. Congrats guys with this second collab, it looks stunning as always!
- Owner: Pol Houtkamp, Dutch sales representative Lee Jeans
- Brand: Lee Jeans, Lee101 wallet 23oz fabric
- Age: Few years
- Treatment: Worn hard every day!
New vs Worn
Send your worn-out project to: email@example.com
To celebrate the 10th anniversary from the awesome denim store Sivletto they team-up with denim brand Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.). For this anniversary they launched a very special “limited edition collection” that will be available exclusively at the Sivletto shop and online and in the K.O.I. online store. This special collab contains 3 master pieces in rock and roll black. The first item which they created is a 13oz selvage jeans, straight fit black denim with detailing that make the denim extra special; a pocket flasher, pocket bag print and leather patch especially developed for the occasion. To complement the black denim, there is a 100% organic cotton tee made from 180gsm single jersey in, of course, black, with an authentic chest print, designed for the anniversary. The last item in the collection is a classic bandana, with the same special limited edition print, made from 100% organic 30’s poplin cotton with a black discharge print. Well done guys and congrats Sivletto with this milestone!
www.kingsofindigo.com & www.sivletto.com
Ebay is the perfect place to spot vintage items, denim and non-denim. Sometimes you see something really cool like this original vintage Levi’s Jeans lighter with the cowboy with saddle. It’s dated from the ’50′s, the Big E period. Collectors item.
Although the Winter officially hasn’t started yet Kiat Yen, founder of ‘Indigo People’, sended me some sneak pics of the new ‘Indigo People’ Spring Summer 2016 collection. For their new collection they took their inspiration from vintage Shibori and Sashiko textiles, traditional Japanese patterns are recreated by using authentic weaving techniques like Ikat. Unlike Shibori which is a tie-dye technique on finished items, the patterns are tied on the weaving yarns to resist dye. The tied yarns are dipped into natural indigo up to 20 times to create a deep blue indigo color. The highly experienced artisans then weave the patterns directly on the handloom. The ultimate pieces that are created with this technique are the Haru, Hiba, Jiro and Aki.
In their Spring Summer 2016 collection ‘Indigo People’ used this delicate material to create two gem pieces; the Amagi with a simple rain pattern and the Hiba with its highly graphic design, get a total new dimension caused by the richness of this graceful material. It takes up to 5 days to weave 1 single piece due to the ultra fine weaving yarns. A new area that ‘Indigo People’ starts to explore in this season are the handmade ties. Handwoven Ikat fabrics with an authentic design, dyed in natural indigo, are manually cut and stitched to form patchworks.
As always the collection looks really awesome and the products from ‘Indigo People’ are the perfect addition for every denim outfit. Thanks for giving the sneak Kiat, till soon!
Indigo People and Denham Jeans teamed up with a nice scarf collab. After a short informal meeting between Indigo People and Jason Denham of Denham The Jeanmaker during a trade show they decided to create something together to share their same indigo passion. Indigo People’s love for indigo and authentic craftsmanship and Denham’s worship for tradition and contemporary design refinement complete each other’s signature and form the fundament for these special edition scarves. The scarves are made from raw hand spun cotton yarns that are manually dyed in natural indigo, which creates an imperfect beauty that fits in an authentic jeans attitude. Blending the traditional open weave and ikat weaving technique with a refined modern look, the two timeless scarves embody both brands’ spirits. The scarves will be available for the true indigo lovers in the official Denham stores and Denham’s dealers.
www.indigopeople.net & www.denhamthejeanmaker.com
Recently we delivered our new Butts and Shoulders ‘Rough line’ to our retailers. For this collection we also developed a new store display with free keyrings. The keyrings are a give a way to customers who are interested to see the magical ageing process from the leather. I shot these pics last week at one on our retailers: Country House in Rotterdam – NL. Great authentic denim store with a beautiful collection.
The Rough collection
Mohsin Sajid, the man behind the Endrime denim brand, is making great steps. His collections are bigger every season and filled with beautiful items. He combines authentic details and silhouettes but always with a great modern twist. One of his highlights for me is still his handmade, read hand stitched jeans. This is really cool and very rare! He also made hand stitched denim ties, also one with selvage fabric. This one is for the real denim dandy’s. Keep on going the good work my friend! Till soon.
Buddies Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco from Eat Dust are making denim workwear and streetwear inspired clothing with their brand. They started with core denim, but quick after their successful launch they expand their collections with other unique items. Also for this Fall Winter season they developed something different and a true must have. It’s a limited winter blanket with only 220 pieces made in Portugal. Colours are off white/navy blue. Let the winter begin!
Rob Harmsen & Keith Hioco
(Pic by Nick Clements)