This teddy bear is made by Kapital clothing from Japan. Teddy bears are going way back. The teddy bear is a soft toy in the form of a bear. Developed apparently by toymakers Morris Michtom in the US and Richard Steiff in Germany in the early years of the 20th century, and named after President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt, Jr. Kapital used for this teddy bear blue indigo rags to create the look of the old Japanese boro’s. The teddy has a great pallet of blue shades. Pretty cool friend for the small indigo kids!
The last few seasons you see more and more black denims in jeans collections. And of course also shuttle loom made black selvage denims. Black coloured denims won’t fade the same way as indigo does. The black penetrates the fiber all the way through, making it almost impossible to get the same contrast as a blue pair of jeans. You could get some moustaches and honeycombs and such, but when washing it, the color will fade and make it grey. I know a black denim looks really cool and rock and roll, but I personally prefer the blue dry ones. Especially because these will age very nice with your own pattern over time. But Nudie Jeans made a cool black dry selvage with their Steady Eddie fit. And the result of wearing looks great after months of wearing. Below some detail shots of this black beauty.
Worn for 6 months
Last Saturday denim collector Yutaka Fujihara released his book: 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. Yutaka is the director of the vintage store BerBerJin in Tokyo – Japan. His denim passion was the drive for his personal archive and the reason why he made this book, a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans. The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language. Don’t know if it will be available in Europe, but will try to get my hands on a copy for my personal archive. The first pictures makes me curious and I am looking forward to see the inside. The edition with the denim cover and golden letters looks really promising!
Around 1848 the famous ”California Gold Rush” started. A lot of farmers left their farm in order to get a better life by finding gold in the mines. But in the early ’50′s they didn’t find any gold anymore. This was a true disaster for everybody as they gave up their old living. Some of them returned back to their farm. But soon their was some good news as they discovered something new in the Nevada mines. Silver, a lot of silver.
This is the beginning of the denim story as the miners needed some strong pants to work in. In the beginning they called these pants, Overalls, which later in the 1930′s became legendary as Jeans. Read the full story in the recently released new denim book: True Fit (http://truefitdenim.com) by Viktor Fredback and Fredrik Ottosson. A must have for everybody who’s interested in denim.
Deadstock Resurrection is a new initiative from Peter Overbeek from Holland. DR will be the new kid in de denim-clothing industry with references to bikes, tattoo and authentic denim. Their philosophy is to re-use, re-claim and re-construct. They approach is creating new, one-off designs that transform surplus fabric and apparel. Apparel stocks from around the world. Their extensive global network sources small quantities of high-quality apparel and fabrics. These surplus stocks would be discarded so by reviving them they are helping to preserve the world’s precious resources. Eveything will be handcrafted in the Netherlands. Each design transformation is produced by hand in limited editions, never to be repeated. Their workshop in the Netherlands customized apparel labels, artworks, prints, patterns, trimmings and the details by hand. This gives each garment a rich and distinctive character, and exclusivity is guaranteed.
During the Amsterdam Denim Days they will officialy launch their brand at the denim Flea Market. Below some sneak images to give you a small insight from their first collection. Look out for Deadstock Resurrection!
Last year the first edition was held of the ‘Amsterdam Denim Days’. After this big success the second edition is already coming to town this April! Amsterdam will be turning blue again for six whole days. It will start on the 13th till the 18th. During these six days you can go to cool store events in the City Center, visit the denim fabric fair Kingpins and of course the great Blueprint event. For the Blueprint event I curate an amazing inspirational denim expo with private archive items from Jason Denham (founder of the Denham brand). Besides that I am also involved into the Flea Market. The event will be the place to be for every denimhead; two days full of music, lectures, expo’s, indigo dye workshops, special brand activations from Candiani, ISKO, G-star, KOI, Scotch, etc. In short, it will be a melting pot for everybody with blue blood in their veins. Come and join the second edition, it’s going to be a one for sure. Below some images to fresh up you mind from the legendary first edition. And check the whole blue program on their site. Great to see u there!
The program of the upcoming edition
Check for the complete agenda here:
Edwin Jeans is established in Japan in 1947. They were one of the first denim producers in Japan. Founder Mr. Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import USA made, Levi’s Jeans, to the United States. In those times there wasn’t a denim manufacturer in Japan. The first Edwin jeans was crafted in 1961. The name Edwin came from utilising the letters from the word denim, and reversing the letter M to create a W. The big worldwide breakthrough was in the ’80′s when they launched a new washing, the famous stone washing.
Nowadays the Edwin brand is still up and running and they continued the same quality and authenticity as back in the days when they started. Recently I received one of their most popular fits from this moment, the ED-55. The ED-55 fit is a relaxed tapered jean. My pair is made of red listed Japanese 14oz selvage fabric. The jean has a button fly, brown leather patch and contrast arcuates stitching on the back pockets (which are also reinforced and lined). There’s also a woven ‘E’ tab label on the right pocket, something I think it’s a great subtle branding. Check out the detail pics here below from this well made in Japan brand! Many thanks Maureen from PR agency Back to Back and the Edwin crew for sending a pair! Stay raw.
Established in May 2013, the Hoya Apparel brand from Indonesia is named after a tropical plant. In their own words: ”We are focused to make the products the best and durable “machinery” that support your various activities. With “form follow function” principles, we recognize craftsmanship in an object’s functionality. Using best and selected materials, crafted by skilled hands, we truly deliver you a remarkable experience in our products”.
The pair below is made from 13.5oz right hand Cone Mills fabric. Looking forward to see more of this brand in the future!
At this moment I am working on a really cool new denim expo with private denim items from Jason Denham (Denham Jeans). The expo is part of the upcoming Amsterdam Denim Days, www.amsterdamdenimdays.com. You can see the expo on the Blueprint event which will be held on the 17th and 18th of April. I will use for the expo only the best of the best, rare vintage items from Jason’s personal archive. As he built an extremely huge and cool archive during his long career it is a true blue denim paradise at his HQ in Amsterdam. So come and join the blue event in April and see where this denim master takes his inspiration from. Below a sneak peak of the expo, an old and totally worn-out Evis Jeans from Japan. Hope to see you in Amsterdam!
Check more of Jasons Denham’s archive items here;
Deadstock Atelier LaDurance Kiddies Longies workwear denim pants. This deadstock pair has still the original hangtag and repair bullit. Didn’t see these small ones so often. The pants is made from 11oz Japanese non-selvage denim. It features all the classic ALD details. This small one is for the cool kids! Great addition in my private collection.
Yesterday the very successful brand Denham Jeans opened their first stand-alone store in Antwerp – Belgium. The store is based in the Lombardenvest 32. To open the store in Antwerp was a natural next step because of the international fashion and design heritage from this beautiful city. The 65 square meters store carry selections from the men and women collection. The main focus are the 5-pockets. The store has a uniform Denham look and feel, they combined old vs new. But as always they put some specials elements in it. The counter looks extremely cool which is made from American yard-sticks. Over all is the store a warm welcome for the city which could use some blue denim power. Congrats and good luck Denham family with this new milestone!
Yesterday I posted the docu ‘In search of blue gold’ with David White from Ragtop Clothing – London. Today I show you a vintage child’s Lee cowboy jeans, circa 1945, from his archive. The jean is in perfect state and has a beautiful blue colour. The back is teared and patched. It’s an Union Made pant with one side selvage only. The backpockets are fastened with the famous X stitching.
‘In Search of Blue Gold’ is a great documentary made by RedBull tv. In the docu they followed David White from Ragtop – London on a trip to Colorado in search for the ultimate rare and old pair of jeans. David is a well known respected denim expert which operated under the name Ragtop. He’s standing on the vintage market in London and he also runs his own vintage shop where he’s selling the most beautiful denim and related items. In this docu he’s visiting another denim expert, Brit Eaton, in Colorado. Brit is one of the biggest denim collectors in the business and has an extremely impressive big collection. They are both so passionate about the blue gold that they joined forces for this trip in search for the ultimate pair of blue gold. In the first part of the docu David is going to old barns together with Brit, they even made a great score, and in the second part David is climbing into an old silver mine which dates from 1890. This is where it’s all about if you’re sharing the passion about the blue denim gold. Check the well made docu in the link. The pics below are screen shots, so they aren’t totally sharp, but will get you in the mood. Enjoy!
Watch the docu here on RedBull tv;
Eat Dust just launched their latest new products on their site. The core of the brand is jeans, but they also develop really cool tops. For Spring / Summer they come with new additions in their collection t-shirts, shirts, sweats and the long awaited Riders denim jacket. Especially the the denim jacket is my favourite. Check for the full line-up their site.
Spijkerbij is an initiative by Leonie and Lois from Holland. They came up with the idea when they saw that a lot of old jeans were thrown away by people without doing anything with it. And the fact that for the production of jeans a big amount of water is needed which isn’t re-used in the most factories. Not to forget that also chemicals are involved in the denim production. They wanted to do something with these facts and they came up with a cool recycle idea. For the Spijkerbrij production they tear up old denims in small rags and throw them in a kind of blender with some glu. After mixing these together they put the blend into a bow tie mal with the result that the old denims come back to live in a new and fresh product. The bow tie is a perfect accessory and an unique addition on your denim outfit. You can book these girls for (store) events where they show-up with their own made denim work bench. Spijkerbrij is a great concept and they make a good statement that you can make something cool from old stuff. Check Spijkerbrij here below and see in the video how it works. Keep it up!
This funny video explains how to wear and use your rigid denim. The video maker used the Atelier LaDurance brand. Coincidence because I posted yesterday the ALD kids jacket and today I bounced into this video. For those how don’t know how to treat your unwashed pair of jeans, here you go!
When Dutch denim brand Atelier LaDurance entered the jeans market in 2002 they did something totally different than the rest. Their workwear inspired silhouettes from the ’40′s and ’50′s were classic and authentic. What the brand made distinctive was the branding, done by graphic designer Boy Bastiaens. Boy gave the brand an unique feel, something I still admire from his long and successful career. As I have a lot of the ALD styles in my private collection, I recently got my hands on this deadstock kids jacket. It’s the Novelty Jacket, a workwear blazer made from hickory stripe fabric. When I saw this jacket I got the same feeling as back in 2002 when Gerard Backx launched his brand. Still a pity that the brand isn’t there anymore…But this jacket is waiting for my little girl when she’s a little bit older. She can wear it perfectly with an original Levi’s Big E red line selvage jeans.
Red Cotton Denim is a denim brand founded by Camillo Love from Oakland – US. His brand is what we call an one man show as he’s doing everything by himself. Read below his story (the short version) in his own words how he started, where his inspiration came from and about his first order. Keep up the great craftsmanship Camillo!
”Back in 1999, I was stationed in Japan on the USS Kitty Hawk as an engineer with the Navy. I found a new appreciation for American made products when I saw how much the Japanese valued the quality of anything handmade in America. When I came back to the States, I worked for friends in the trades who owned their own businesses, cutting trees and building houses. Once I set my mind to making jeans, I was lucky enough to meet The Guy in San Francisco who knew everything about manufacturing denim. He was a sailor too and took the time to explain the business to me. Around the same time, I also met a guy in Oakland who was making kick ass jeans from start to finish by himself. He shared his knowledge about denim and machines with me and inspired me to follow my heart in making handcrafted denim. A few months ago, I landed my first order with a store in San Francisco. Crafting dozens of jeans by myself in only two weeks was a real test. And the start to realizing my dream. My ignorance at how hard it could be got me started. As I learned how much is involved, my determination kept me from giving up. My passion for hard work and quality American made goods is what you’ll find at Red Cotton Denim, from hand-sewn Cone Mills denim to the hand stamped leather patches”.
Amsterdam based bracelet brand Pig&Hen just launched their new lookbook for summer 2015. All their products are handmade in Holland using authentic ship rope. The products is a great addition to your denim outfit. The story behind the brand is pretty cool, for those who don’t know it yet, here you go…
In the early 1600’s the Dutch were the leading nation sailing out to unknown parts of the world, with the biggest naval fleet the world had ever seen. With some serious sea legs, they discovered new lands, different ways of life but also ran into some big obstacles along the way. To protect themselves against bad luck the men had a tattoo of a pig and a hen on their feet. It was believed it gave the sailors the ability to survive when they had to abandon ship. The sailors felt they would be able to find land, just like the Pig and Hen who were kept in wooden crates and thus floated, and would let the tide bring them home. Pig&Hen will save your life, even in a tight situation.
Check the lookbook here below. Pig&Hen, stronger than steel!