Great compilation from the exhibitors from last Denim Premiere Vision fair in Paris.
After over 20 successful years with retail, Danish menswear brand, JACK & JONES, takes it’s retail to the next level with a new store concept; the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO. The JACK & JONES brand was built on a passion for denim and jeans and is still the core business of the company. To celebrate the roots, the JEANS INTELLIGENCE brand is ready to launch it’s own new store concept. The first JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO opened their doors last month in Salzburg, Austria. Now it’s time for the second store opening. The new JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO will be open in Tilburg – The Netherlands from the 7th of December. This is the second JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO.
Jeans Intelligence is the backbone of the JACK & JONES brand. The products are designed with respect for denim traditions and made with the leaders of the industry. The best denim makers. And with success as the brand is the biggest denim men’s wear brand in Europe as it comes to quantities.
With the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO they want to give the customers a full denim experience. The store has a wide selection of jeans. There’s a denim wall which is loaded with 24 different jeans styles. In this store you will find the ‘denim dealer’ which is a dedicated jeans expert. With his expertise and production video’s you can get an insight into the denim product and production.
Below some exclusive sketches of the upcoming JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO Tilburg store.
The JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO is officialy open their doors Thursday the 8th of December.
Adress: JACK & JONES: JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO – Heuvelstraat 78 – Tilburg – The Netherlands.
Check the after movie from the JEANS INTELLIGENCE STUDIO in Salzburg, Austria.
The Order collective presents ‘Get in where you fit in’ in collaboration with Edwin Jeans and Tristes Tropiques. The Order collective consists four creative artists from Amsterdam: Edu de Leau, Emiel Steenhuizen, Etienne Memon & Joshua Hoogeboom. The ‘Get in where you fit in’ is the theme of this special collaboration where Edwin Jeans is the canvas of this project. New artworks, a limited t- shirt, 80 pieces only, and a jacket, 20 pieces only, are made by Order and Oliver Prat from Edwin Jeans Europe.
To celebrate this special collaboration they organised together with Vice Amsterdam a night with Warsteiner and Jameson Whisky drinks, music by Order Music and Willy Party. Check all the details here below.
The limited collab tee printed in Toulouse – France
The collab hand printed jackets
Etienne Memom – Order
Olivier Prat – Edwin Jeans Europe
Edouard Guiounet – Tristes Tropiques
At the event you can check out the latest work by Order
Edu Deleau – Order - working on a Edwin Jeans collab jacket
From 1992 till 1994 Diesel Jeans from Italy created a special denim line inspired by the ‘Big 3′ (Levi’s, Lee & Wrangler) called Old Glory. Old Glory was the best line ever created by Diesel Jeans in my opinion. This special OG collection was really outstanding and totally different than other denim brands. It was one of the first denim premium lines. This line was launched before Levi’s Jeans came with their Levi’s Vintage Clothing – LVC line and before Lee Jeans dropped their 101 line. The Old Glory line was workwear inspired. Below the Gold Miner jeans from my personal denim archive. It features;
- Classic 5-pocket fit
- Cinch back
- Hidden rivets
- Orange selvage
- Crotch rivet
- Zipper closure
- Original ’90′s washing
Next to the Old Glory line also the catalogs from Diesel Jeans from that time were outstanding and rare. They weren’t free and you had to buy them as they were made in low quantities. I added below some images from the Gold Miner pants taken from the original catalog dated from 1992.
Old Glory advertising Goldigger jeans pictures from 1992
In the beginning of last January we launched our first edition of our Butts and Shoulders ‘Goodyear Welted’ boots. After the success of the first run we produced a second run and we also developed the first run for women. We received a lot of question how you could treat the natural vegetable leather the best. After all the requests we decided to develop our own Butts and Shoulders Bee-Wax kit and Shoe-Stretchers. The Bee-Wax kits contain everything you need to clean and wax your pair of boots. The Bee-Wax is made from natural ingredients to serve you the best. The Shoe-Stretchers will shape your boots in the original form and the Cedar Wood will also helps for unpleasant odors.
The Butts and Shoulders boots
The Butts and Shoulders Bee-Wax Kit
The Butts and Shoulders Shoe-Stretchers
Kiriko made an outstanding pair of jeans for women, a patched selvage jeans. For this unique pair Kiriko used various leftover fabrics of different materials and patched them to the denim. The details made this an one of a kind. The jeans is made of 13oz. selvage denim made in Fukuyama City, one of the biggest manufacturers out of Japan producing some of the highest quality. The fit is a boyfriend style, 5 pocket. The jeans is patched in the Kiriko studio in Portland, Oregon. The leather patch on the back is hand-embossed. All in all a really fine pair of jeans. Go girls!
The Blue Handed brand is started by John Abbate. John worked 25 years for big brands designing up-cycled furniture under ‘R-incarnation’. After that he moved to Shanghai starting his own retail consulting agency, John Abbate Studio, and was a visual merchandising professor at Mod’Art. John is currently creative director at Design Overlay, a retail design agency based in Shanghai. He created the concept of Blue Handed in 2015 by stumbling upon a vintage piece of fabric found in a demotion site of an old part of Shanghai.
The Blue Handed Pin Bu Scarves are new hand dyed indigo, antique “lan yin hua bu’ indigo fabrics, with or without patches and vintage yarn dye fabrics. Each scarf is unique, hand stitched with the character of a handmade loom. Check them out here below.
Founder Blue Handed John Abbate
Pharrell Williams is now ‘Head of Imagination’ at the Dutch denim brand G-Star Raw. Pharrell just launched his first collection: G-Star Raw Elwood X25-collection. G-Star Raw most famous jeans is the Elwood. This jeans, inspired by a biker pants and designed by Pierre Morisset, was born 20 years ago in 1996. It was one of the first 3D constructed pairs of jeans. Very revolutionary at that time. Pharrell came with the idea to give this iconic piece a twist. He created 25 different styles with colorfull prints: camouflage, checks, and prints from all over the world. The collection was released in L.A. but will be available this upcoming February through some selected retailers wordwide and through the G-Star Raw website.
Pic by Hypebeast
Denham Jeans launched this weekend a limited edition: Denham Razor VISS – Virgin Indigo Stretch Selvage – Made in Japan. After years they are back with a special edition made of the legendary Japanese Kaihara Mill. For this edition Denham Jeans used a classic 14oz weight redline selvage denim fabric. The fabric contains 2% elastane for more comfort, but the fabric feels true rigid. The jeans is a kind of a homage to Japan and features some amazing details: red buttons, red rivets, one piece selvage fly, selvage coin pocket, Japanese patch and a red siccor on the backpocket (691 stitches in every scissor). The Denham Jeans jeans is made in a limited of 650 pieces worldwide.
Today I want to share another original vintage pair of Levi’s 501XX – Big E - Jeans from my personal denim archive. It’s a Levi’s Jeans 501XX pair from the late ’60′s. It has a really cool crotch repair and many signs of hard wear. These kind of fadings on original Levi’s Jeans are for me personally the best. The jeans has so many character and is loaded with the original features as;
- 501XX fit
- Big E Red Tab – Made in the late ’60′s
- Washed-out redline selvage
- Number 16 on the back of the top button
- Classic V-stitch at button fly
- Single stitched backpockets
- Twisted legs
- Worn-off backlabel
Lynn Downey worked for about 25 years as a professional archivist and historian for the Levi’s Jeans brand. Her job was to built the Levi’s archive with historical materials. She built an extremely rare Levi’s collection which contains more than 5.000 outstanding pieces. In 2015 Lynn Downey started with a new journey, writing a book about Levi Strauss, the founder of the Levi’s Jeans brand. Now almost a year later she finished her book project and it’s now available: Levi Strauss – ‘The man who gave blue jeans to the world’. Looking forward to read it. Thanks Lynn Downey for sharing all your knowledge about this legendary denim man!
Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) launched in 2012 their first collection. The brand dna is inspired by American classics with details from Japan. A perfect mix for a successful denim brand. Their key words are quality, innovative and sustainable. The name Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) came from founder Tony Tonnaer’s favorite tattoo, a koi fish on his right shoulder in remembrance of his mother. Koi fish are intelligent creatures and they tend to swim against the stream which is a strong metaphor for the rebellion that comes with the denim lifestyle. In Japan the Koi fish stands for luck, love and perseverance. Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) brand is now available through 250 carefully selected retailers in 12 countries and online, with a focus on Northern Europe.
Also the marketing is impressive and fits perfectly with their brand dna. They created one of the largest, if not the largest, selvage jeans as promotion with waist size 82 and length 32. The jeans called Sumo and refers to the Rodeo Clown Pants jeans from the ’40′s and ’50′s from brands as Lee Jeans and Wrangler. The Sumo jeans is made of high quality rigid redline selvage fabric and has all the details of the regular Kings of Indigo (K.O.I) jeans. On the back of the jeans they attached a true cool embroidery which makes this Sumo jeans very special.
I’m very happy to have this big Sumo jeans in my denim collection. This is the biggest selvage jeans in my collection so far. Meet Sumo here below.
Mister Freedom gave their popular five pocket ‘Californian Lot.64′ jeans a special presidential treatment. It was made for the United States Presidential Election. They decided to issue a limited edition Lot.64 “Election” model. The jeans has the same fit and cut as the original Lot.64. The pattern is inspired by traditional 1950′s – 1960’s era blue jeans, traditional fit with slightly tapered legs.
The jeans is made of the heaviest ounce fabric by Mister Freedom so far. They used 16.5oz new old stock from the legendary Cone Mills from the U.S. with a white selvedge ID with a redline. The pocket bags are cut from limited yardages of 100% cotton new old stock vintage canvas, some printed with stars, some with stripes. The run of Californian Lot.64 “Election” is made for the Mister Freedom HQ in Los Angeles.
The usual Mister Freedom leather patch is left unbranded and blank this time. Do it Yourself (DIY) branding for those into displaying their political inclination, pet name or favorite band. The untreated natural leather is originally pinkish but will tan to a warmer color and get patina overtime. Get this special jeans here.
Founded in 1953, Orta transformed from a spinning and weaving company to a denim manufacturer in 1985. Today, Orta produces over 60 million meters of denim in it’s Turkey and Bahrain factories. Orta launched during the Kingspins fair in Amsterdam their first vintage book with the title: ‘The 5374 Vintage Showroom Book’. The book shows the most iconic pieces from the large Orta denim archive. Their great vintage showroom is housed in the Istanbul headquarters and tells the story behind 49 beautiful rare pieces. The book is dedicated to the so called 49′ers, this was the milestone of the global denim industry.
The birth of denim started with the Californian Gold Rush period. When James W Marshall found gold at Sutter’s Mill in Coloma on January the 24th of 1848, he accendentally started the largest mass migration in American history. The Forty-niners were the first; the real pioneers. The book ‘The 5374 Vintage Showroom Book’ is a kind of a homemage to them. The book shows 49 inspirational pieces from the Orta collection from workwear, jeans, Japanese boro’s and many more.
Doug Gunn and Roy Luckett from ‘The Vintage Showroom’ - London curated ‘The 5374 Vintage Showroom’. The book is made of high-quality glossy paper with a hardcover. The design is just perfect and have a link to the great books from ‘The Vintage Showroom’: ‘A Collection from the Vintage Showroom’ and the follow-up ‘An Archive of Menswear’. Both are favorites of mine as well.
In case you were wondering where the title 5374 name came from, this was one of Orta’s best selling fabrics back in the ’90′s. This denim fabric has an authentic character used by a lot of denim brands.
The book ‘The 5374 Vintage Showroom Book’ is made as a limited edition and is a great project. Actually it’s one of the best denim books I have seen for years. Orta and The Vintage Showroom did an amazing job with this project! Looking forward to see the items in real live one day. Fingers crossed that they are making #2 in the future! Thanks for my copy and big bravo!
Fernando García de la Calera from Spain is the founder of The Concrete brand. Fernando started his brand in 2007. As a fanatic skateboarder he used to skateboard a lot and called their skate spot The Concrete, that explains the origin of his brand name. In the beginnig he created designs for skateboards and t-shirts, but soon changed to urban clothing based on elegance, comfort and durability. Fernando is running The Concrete brand from his tailor shop in Madrid – Spain. The core of the brand, and also the specialty of Fernando, is working with the denim fabric. Meet Fernando García de la Calera and his craftsmanship.
Fernando García de la Calera
One of my personal The Concrete favorites are the The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jackets. The jackets are made of high quality denim fabrics and perfect for your motorcycle trips.
The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket #1
- Made of 13.5oz selvage fabric from the Italian Candiani mill.
- The sleeves have silk lining inside that makes it light and perfect for Spring rides.
- The jacket has a tough YKK zipper and denim detail cover to prevent scratches on the tank.
- The buttons are made in artisan foundation, being a representation of the meticulous work of Transformaciones Valtoron brand.
- The work of folds in the side of the inner jacket is reinforced with elastic fabric, so the jacket is slim but have mobility during driving.
- Three exterior pockets with zipper, one inside and an adjustable cuff zipper.
The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket
The Concrete x Valtoron denim ride jacket #2
- Made of 13.5oz selvage fabric from the Italian Candiani mill.
- Inside made of quilted silk lining polyester foam which gives strength and make it warm enough for winter.
- The jacket has a tough YKK zipper closure and a tape to cut the wind in your chest.
- The buttons are made in artisan foundation, being a representation of the meticulous work of the Transformations Valtorón brand.
- Two outside pockets and one inside.
- Handmade wooden buttons.
- Detachable collar Spanish Merino wool.
- Adjustable sleeve closure.
The Antwerp (BE) based brand Eat Dust started in 2010 by Rob Harmsen and Keith Hioco. Both has a large work expericence in the clothing and denim industry. Next to that they were fanatic skateboarders in the past and they’re now riding their bikes as much as possible. Their love for denim, skateboarding and bikes are the key elements in their Eat Dust brand. They combine these perfectly together what always results in an unique and outstanding collection. Also for this Fall Winter collection Eat Dust created some great pieces. Just to highlight some of them: the Lebowski outfit, the Sherpa vest and jacket, and their latest collab with the Dehen brand. These guys are always on point and so are you with these Eat Dust Winter items. Bravo buddies!
Sherpa Vest & Jacket
Dehen X Eat Dust motorcycle collab sweat
Availble here: http://eatdust.bigcartel.com
Ian Berry works solely in denim, cutting and gluing to create highly detailed, photorealist pictures that have to be seen to be believed. You will have to see his great work in real live to believe that it’s totally made of old denim rags. He’s using the different shades of the rags as a palette to create his master works. It’s really insane!
The expo ‘Behind Closed Doors’ is about isolation and inner turmoil. He despite calm outward appearances, and is portrayed through solitary figures in familiar beautiful settings. A reference perhaps to show you can have possessions, yet not always be content in this material world. With ‘My Beautiful Launderette’ he shows spaces that were once at the heart of the community but are now frequently closing down.
Both projects looks really amazing as always! I’m a big fan of his work for some years and I’m always impressed how he create those true master pieces. Go check it out when you’re in London. Big bravo Ian!
16 – 30 November 2016
14 Percy Street | London | W1T 1DR
Worn is a collaboration from The Vintage Showroom – London and trend forecasters and denim gurus Sue Barrett (formerly WGSN) and freelance denim and streetwear trend forecaster Katy Rutherford (creative director of STORY mfg.) The Worn publication is about global street style-trends and vintage garments. Worn Volume One profiles current neo-vintage looks and contemporary patchwork. The 2nd edition – Worn Volume Two – celebrates the beauty of functional military design treasured, worn and faded through the decades. Next to amazing vintage military items they portraited some outstanding people styled in their unique vintage garments. As I’m really into old army stuff (next to denim) I’m very happy with a copy of this Worn Vol. 2. Worn is a true must have for every designer, trend forecaster and for everyone with an interest in vintage clothing. Go check it out for yourself, you will love it! Below some sneak pages of Worn Vol. 2.
Check also Worn Vol. 1 here.
Get your copy here: www.thevintageshowroom.com
The Indigo People brand is expanding their product range every season. Now they also added some really cool blue handmade bandanas to their Indigo People collection. The graphic design of the bandanas are manually printed following authentic batik technique. Using hot wax the artisan applies the artwork directly on the fabric to resist dye. After dipped several times in natural indigo the bandana is boiled in hot water to remove the hot wax and the artwork appears on the bandana. Due to the manual printing and indigo dyeing process, imperfection occurs on the printed artwork that marks the unique appearance of each single item. Check here below the beautiful Indigo People bandanas to complete your denim outfit.
Watch the short film of the making off the Indigo People bandanas