Wrangler Austalia teamed-up with sustainable eyewear brand Mosevic from the U.K. Mosevic is a denim eyewear brand which creates unique sunglasses made from old denim rags. Together with Wrangler jeans they created a small limited edition collection. The sunglasses are made of 3 to 10 layers of old Wrangler jeans which results in durable eyewear. The glasses are really special as the variety of pre-loved denim used in each pair, ingrained with the history of the denims previous life. Each pair is handmade in the Mosevic workshop, and finished with high quality Zeiss lenses.
Denoism is a Rotterdam based concept store specialised in denim, food and style for men. The location of Denoism is very unique and special. The first part of the store is a luxury food spot. They serve here delicious sandwiches, fresh made coffee and of course you can drink a cold beer or wine too. The core of Denoism is the menswear clothing part. The collection of Denoism contains high-end premium brands as; BDD (Benzak Denim Developers), Denham the Jeanmaker, Denim.Lab, Private White V.C, Japan Blue, Momotaro, Samsøe Samsøe, Stutterheim, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Good People, Armor Lux, Krakatau, Neuw, Converse, Red Wing, Porter Yoshida, Atelier de l’Armee, Filson and Brixton. In the middle of the store they created a special denim atelier. They will make here special bespoke denim by hand by craftsman Niek Logger. You can choose your own fabrics and harware to create your ultimate pair of jeans. Next to clothes they also carry a fine selection of books. Denoism is truly an unique concept store. A must visit for everyone with interest in denim, but clothing in general. Go check it out!
Pics by Randy Ruijter: www.randyruijter.com
Blackhorse Lane Ateliers makes and sell organic, selvedge & raw denim jeans from their atelier in London, England. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers has a focus on sustainability, community and unmatched quality. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers opened its doors in April 2016 and is founded by Bilgehan “Han” Ates which has 25 years of experience in the textile industry. They focus with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers on the following:
- They manufacture their own line of premium selvedge and raw denim jeans. Theye offer multiple fits from super slim to vintage straight, in multiple raw denims.
- Their atelier has collaborated with prestigious brands including Drake’s, Hussein Chalayan, Christopher Raeburn, King & Tuckfield, Endrime and Labour & Wait.
- They offer sampling and production services for clothing made with denim and similar materials.
Below one of my personal favo jeans from the Blackhorse Lane Atelier denim collection: The E5 relaxed tapered jeans made of 14.5oz organic ISKO denim fabric. The E5 fit has a medium rise, relaxed thigh area and a subtle taper from the knee downwards. The jeans is clean and classic, just how a perfect jeans has to look like. UK craftsmanship it is.
Benzak launched a range of classic tees with their European Made collection. The tees are made of heavy 210 gr/m2 jersey fabrics. The Benzak tees are made in three must have colours: white – grey and black. All the tees are crew necks and made of 100% cotton. There are two versions of the tees: BDD chain stitch embroidery and with the Benzak crackle print. The crackle print will age very nice with wear, which you can see here below. Like the rest of the Benzak collection the tees are also made in Portugal. Let the Summer begin and remember: ‘Luxury is going to work in a pair of jeans and a t-shirt’.
The print will crack and age by wear and wash, this is considered a unique feature of these t-shirts.
See the ageing stages of the Benzak print.
The Companion denim brand from Barcelona is making handcrafted denim items. On each item you will find some special details. The Companion Joel 012N Jeans is also loaded with some excellent specials. The basis is the so called ‘rainbow fabric’. The yarns of this jeans are first coloured with the rainbow colors before they touched the indigo blue. So when this Companion jeans fade you got a nice ‘rainbow fade’. Next to that the specials of this Companion Joel 012N jeans are;
- 13.5oz colour core, selvedge denim, 100% Cotton, sanforized, Japan
- Companion stripes logo with “nerve” embroidery
- One piece selvedge fly
- Two tone stitching throughout the pair
- Selvedge key hanger loop
- Peek a boo selvedge on coin pocket
- Double nerve stitch on pocket bags
- Reinforced pocket opening with herringbone tape
- Hand felled yoke and back rise
- Italian hickory stripes pocket bags
- Colorful chainstitch run-off on backpockets
- Hidden rivets
- Cotton cord inserted in beltloops
- Japanese black laurel leaf buttons with copper prong
- Branded natural vegtan leather patch, from Italy
- Chainstitch hemming with the Union Special 43200G
Antonio di Battista from Italy is besides a great denim collector, with an extremely huge and rare collection - more than 3.000 items-, the founder of the brand Blue Blanket Jeans. The Blue Blanket collection contains high-quality made denim goods. Every now and then Antonio drops some new items to the Blue Blanket collection. It was now the right time to develop some new great stuff which he just launched on his website. The new items are remarkable classic pieces like white plain tees, denim arpon, gilet, short, shirts (also for ladies!), loose fit jeans, workwear jackets and even a handmade wooden mini cruiser. Most of the items are made of fine Italian fabrics and has great details as Japanese woven labels. Always great to see the work of this craftsman and friend Antonio di Battista. Check the total collection on his site, below some of my favo’s. Keep up the good work!
Antonio di Battista
Check the new items here: www.blueblanketjeans.com
Oldblue Jeans created a heavyweight edition a while ago. For this heavyweight Oldblue Jeans edition they used a clean slim straight fit. A slightly slim silhouette with the comfort of a regular straight cut. A perfect cut for your daily wear. For the fabric they used a 21oz selvage true indigo denim from Japan. The fabric is unsanforized denim. It starts as a rigid 21oz denim and once after the intial soak/wash it will become approximately 23oz. The selvage quality is made on an old authentic shuttle loom. For the innerpockets they used a hickory striped fabric, very strong and thick fabric. For the hardware, they used Japan made 100% copper washer – burr rivets and “Laurel Leaf” iron plated doughnut buttons, also made in Japan. The laurel leaf is a symbol of peace, used a lot on jeans and jackets during WW2. The leather patch is vegetable tanned US horse hide. So this will fade nicely together with this Oldblue Jeans.
This Oldblue Jeans is a true heavyweight champion. The fabric is so stiff that it can stand on it’s own. It’s a heavy denim project for the orginal denimheads.
Fatboy Clothing is a brand by Charles Niehues from France. FBC is an one man company with only one single needle sewing machine. Charles respects all the techniques of traditional work which results in high-quality made products like this canvas coat.
This Fatboy Clothing coat is made of 13.5oz heavy cotton canvas. The stripes are painted by hand using water based ink. This process is very time consuming, but the outcome is very unique and an one of a kind. The cotton is from France, same as the calfskin leather collar. The labels of the coat are printed on fabric and dyed with pigments to lend them a used look and feel. To make the FBC coat complete he added wooden buttons on it. This is just a master piece.
Check also the new video from Fatboy Clothing which gives the perfect outdoor life experience.
Today I want to highlight one of the oldest indigo clothing items from my private collection. It’s a kids kimono (for 3 – 4 years old kids) from circa 1930 (maybe older). Before I go further with this specific kimono, first some history about the kimono.
The kimono is a Japanese traditional garment. The word ‘kimono’ means a ‘thing to wear’ (ki “wear” and mono “thing”). The standard word kimono in English is kimonos. The kimono is always used in important festival or formal moments, it is the representative of polite and a very formal clothing. Kimonos has T-shaped, straight-lined robes worn so that the hem falls to the ankle, with attached collars and long, wide sleeves. Kimonos are wrapped around the body, always with the left side over the right side (except when dressing the dead for burial) and secured by a sash called an obi, which is tied at the back. Kimonos are generally worn with traditional footwear.
My kimono comes from the Miyagi Prefecture area, the North Pacific Ocean side from Japan. The kimono is from the early Showa period. The Showa period is known from the potentially period of peace and harmony or ‘period of radiant’ Japan. The Showa era refers to the period of Japanese history corresponding to the reign of the Showa Emperor, Hirohito, from December 25, 1926, through January 7, 1989.
Back to my kimono. The kimono is made by hand and coloured with natural indigo. It has beautiful different blue colors, aged by wear. On the back you see a small repair which is very common by old traditional clothing. People repaired over and over again their clothes as they didn’t had the money to buy new stuff (totally different than nowadays). If you flip the kimono inside out you will see the strong blue colors. This kimono is a true piece of art with a rich history and link to the denim industry.
The French brand Bleu de Paname was founded in 2009 by Christophe Lépine and Thomas Giorgetti. With Bleu de Paname they create indigo, work- and sportswear related clothing for men. The Bleu de Paname collections have it all, it contains pants, shirts, sweats, jackets, etc. The brand has developed their own signature over the years and is always a feast for the eyes. Below the Bleu de Paname Spring Summer 2017 collection.
Sometimes you spot the perfect denim car, like this one! Meet the classic Land Rover Defender D90 Heritage. This 4WD is made in 2009 and is in perfect state. It has a marine blue high quality paint and the inside is made from cognac leather. Check out the pics here below and see why this is the perfect ride for upcoming Spring/Summer! This excellent Defender is for sale for € 49K. More details here.
Denim brand Pike Brothers is making high-quality selvage jeans. Some of the Pike Brothers denim fabrics are made on the authentic shuttle looms from Picanol from the ’30′s. In the latest Pike Brothers Journal they showed us some serious cool shots of the making of these durable and classic denim fabrics. Below shots of how it works. The video shows you the loom in full effect with some fine music from Black Patti. Keep up the good work Pike Brothers.
This original vintage Levi’s Jeans jacket is another treasure from my private denim archive. It’s the famous Levi’s 559XX – Type 3 - jacket from the late ’60′s. The jacket is also known as a Big E (produced before 1971). This Levi’s Jeans 559XX jacket is the Winter version of the 557XX style which has a blanket lining. The back of the buttons are stamped with digit #525, so it’s produced in the U.S.A. The jacket has heavy worn fades, whiskers at the sleeves and some denim repairs. Also the lining is destroyed by wear. This Levi’s Jeans jacket is a heavy worn example with American roots.
A few weeks ago it was already the 4th edition of the very successful Selvedge Run tradeshow in Berlin. The Selvedge Run is a tradeshow for menswear, shoes and accessories. A home for brands with character. Craft is the core of the show with a focus on the good. Enjoy the recap and see you next edition!
Authentic outdoor brand Filson has an outstanding watch collection called The Dutch Harbor Watch Collection. This collection is inspired by the dive watches of the 1950′s. The collection brings functionality to places where time is a matter of life and death. The Filson Dutch Harbor Watches are water resistant up to 990 feet. It features a bezel for precise timing, and is available with a leather, nylon, rubber or stainless steel band.
This one is my favorite in the Filson Dutch Harbor Watch collection. The details are;
- 43mm case •Brushed stainless steel case plating
- Unidirectional bezel for precise timing
- 30 ATM: water resistant at more than 900 feet
- High-contrast hands for easy legibility in low light
- Black matte velvet dial
- 22mm green nylon strap
- 22mm brushed stainless steel roller buckle
Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans added a new family member to their denim collection. Their latest fit is the Tilted Tor. The Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor is the new anti-fit with a slim tapered leg. The waist is slightly tilted with a high back rise and a normal front. So if you are looking for something new with a narrow leg opening , Tilted Tor is the one for you.
The Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor fit is coming in two different options:
Dry Cold Black – 11.75oz comfort stretch
Dry Pure Navy – 11.5oz comfort stretch
Watch how the Nudie Jeans Tilted Tor looks like in this movie:
The Atelier de l’Armée collection is made for the every day city cyclist, the outdoors type and the adventure seeker who likes to travel in style. Prepared for all weather, the Atelier de l’Armée collection is made out of water repellent fabrics in combination with vegetable tanned full grain cowhide leather. Atelier de l’Armée used for this Metropolis Pack 18oz olive / brown sturdy water repellent cotton canvas. Originally this cotton type was used for military tents which stands all kinds of weather. The lining of the bag is Cordura nylon. This Atelier de l’Armée Metropolis Pack is crafted in The Netherlands.
FDMTL (Fundamental Agreement Luxury) is started in 2005 by Gaku Tsuyoshi from Tokyo – Japan. The collections from FDMTL are always inspired by the Japanese clothing history, so it contains a lot of repair, patches and indigo stuff. It has links with the vintage sashiko technique, old boro’s and kimonos. The FDMTL collections are a true inspiration for every (denim) designer and enthousiasm for blue jeans.
Check also the FDMTL SS17 collection movie:
One of the historical moments in the denim industry is the formation of the Genius Group in Italy. The Genius Group started in 1982 as a think tank from several upcoming designers which were the founders from brands as: Diesel, Replay, Goldie, Ten Big Boys, Muscle Bo Bo Kaminsky, etc. In total there were 14 brands who joined the Genius Group. The idea of the Genius Group was that they could share they knowledge about product development, marketing and sales supprt to help eachother to grow with their brand. The initiator of the Genius Group was Adriano Goldschmied. Adriano Goldschied is known as ‘The Godfather of Denim’. He’s like a father figure for the denim industry. The picture from the Genius Group is legend and a true milestone in the denim industry. Below the famous picture, cutted in three pieces, the original one is one long picture.
In the middle picture you see Adriano Goldschmied sitting front row with the beard. Next to him is Renzo Rosso (owner of Diesel Jeans).