This week I will be in Amsterdam for the Amsterdam Denim Days. The first stop was the Kingpins denim fabric fair for 2 days and then 2 days Blueprint. For the Blueprint event I worked this time for the Denim Market and curated a denim expo with private items from the English denim designer Jason Denham – founder of the Denham brand. So no updates the upcoming days, but I guess I will meet a lot of indigo heads live on the events. It’s time to catch up with friends and talk about our blue denim passion.
To give you a sneak of what you can expect from the very cool denim expo here’s an old patched and repaired pants from The American Brand from the 1930′s. This pant is one of Jason’s favorite patched up work pants from his huge and rare archive. Hope to see you all at Blueprint Amsterdam!
Check the complete program of Amsterdam Denim Days here:
Yesterday evening after the Kingpins fair in Amsterdam Denham Jeans organised a special evening to launch their long awaited follow up on their Cannes Award winning viral sensation ‘Denham Psycho’. Their new explicit remake is ‘The Jeanmaker’. Watch it here online! Congrats Denham crew with this brilliant master piece!
Bob Rijnders from the famous Dutch denim store Best Of Brands – BOB located in Hoogland (NL) is launching his new denim collection during the Amsterdam Denim Days this week. He will show for the first time his brand new collection at the Blueprint event. One of the specials from the collection is the hook up with authentic label Armor Lux. The Armor Lux brand is started in 1938 in Quimper, France, and is known for their originality of its maritime inspired garments and excellent quality. All their collections are inspired by French tradition and the values conveyed by the sea.
The collab version of the hero piece the Sweat Bouclette Heritage Sweatshirtmade of 100% pure cotton and napped on the inside will have the brands logo’s both being a hook and anchor imprinted on the shirt. In total there will be only 250 limited edition unisex shirts available with the retail price of € 89,95. The first 50 will be sold at the Blueprint and the rest will be sold via the Butcher of Blue store in Hoogland and via the webshop: www.butcherofblue.com/shop/ as of end of April 2015.
Next to items as shirts, sweats and t-shirts in the new collection, Bob will also launch two 100% Italian made iconic selvedge denims with the support of the well-known denim mill Candiani. Looking forward to see it by myself this week. Below a sneak peak from the collab with Armor Lux. Congrats Bob!
Companion Denim is a brand faithful to the values of quality, durability, honesty, respect for the environment, and to the aesthetics of clean and minimal subtelty. Straight to the core of denim pureness. Each pair of jeans is designed and handcrafted with the most attention to detail and an obsessively manicured confection.
All the Companion jeans are made in Barcelona – Spain with the finest selvedge denim coming from an accurate selection of qualities from the best mills, mostly from Japan, USA and Italy. The jeans are artisanally crafted with a selection of the best sewing machines for making denim. Using a mix of both modern and classic vintage machines which made the jeans of the old. Some of those machines are even 100 years old and make a beautiful and highly durable stitching. Check out the making of a pair of jeans in the movie here below.
Something really exciting is going to happen this week on the 2nd edition of Amsterdam Denim Days at Blueprint. Italy’s premium denim mill, Candiani, and the industry’s finest apprentices unite: students of AMFI and the Jean School / House of Denim. They will co-create 30 exclusive custom jeans with Candiani Denim. Candiani Denim’s loom weaves the fabric live, right then and there, and the students will be creating your customised jeans on the spot. This “loom state” journey that starts and ends with jeans created in the heart of the contemporary denim capital of the world. It results in one of the most exclusive denims possible.
Candiani Denim will install a 1950s’ Picanol loom and a Denim Atelier to take denim lovers on a journey from thread to finished product. Candiani is the only mill in Europe which still weaves on a day to day basis with these small, machine looms, which drove the first denim boom in the Western world. They result in a unique denim quality.
As they can only make 30 pairs during the 2 days of the event, you have to be selected to buy one of these 100% Made in Amsterdam pair of selvage jeans. The lucky ones can select the denim weight, styling and trimming details. You will have to pay a symbolic donation. The donations will be used to fund a Denim Archive in the new to open Denim City / home of House of Denim at de Hallen.
Looking forward to see this authentic loom creating the first Amsterdam pair of jeans. See you this week at the Amsterdam Denim Days: Zuiveringshal, Westergasfabriek.
Two weeks ago a really cool new denim book came out: The 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans as it captures vintage Big E jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book shows 51 unique and rare examples which are in hands of Japanese Levi’s Jeans collectors. One of them is Yutaka Fujihara, and he’s also the maker of this great book. The book is a true history book as it comes to the rich heritage of Levi’s Jeans. All the details from every 501 era are fully described in 200 pages with photos and text in Japanese and English language. The book came in two editions, one limited edition which has a denim cover with golden letters (only 501 pieces were printed and were sold out within week!) and a regular version. Check below the cover of the regular edition. Big bravo to Levi’s expert Yutakafor thisamazing denim document! Happy that I got my hands on a copy.
A couple of years ago Lee Jeans launched their heaviest denim made so far in their collection, Lee 101z – 23oz. Lee Jeans launched their 101 cowboy pant in 1924, probably the first denim trouser designed specially for cowboys and rodeo riders. This same year they removed the back pocket rivets and added the bar tackings. After the 101b (buttons) they came with the 101z (zipper). The first denim pants with a zipper!This heavy 101z jean is made from 23oz right hand selvage fabric. The selvage is golden/brown. The jean was made in limited quantities, 250 pieces only!This is one of them.
King & Queens store in Antwerp (Belgium) is organising a Pike Brothers day. During the day you can see the full Pike Brothers collection, check out denim clinics, drink free beers, listen to good music and of course they will give some free give a ways. The founder of the German Pike Brothers brand, Fabian Jedlitschka, will be there as well. He can tell you everything about his brand, why he started and what’s coming up in the future. All in all a good event to notice in your agenda. Cheers!
Next week the Amsterdam Denim Days will be held for the second time. To promote this unique blue denim event they made a great short movie to get you in the mood. In the movie you will meet blogger Lizzy van der Ligt, guitarist Jiri Taihuttu, jeansmaker Mick Keus and of course the men from These Cavemen. Check it out en see u next week in Amsterdam!
Dutch denim brand Kings of Indigo is doing it very good last seasons with expanding their business. Their top products are made on old school small shuttle looms. They use only the very best organic and recycled selvage fabrics from Italy and Japan for the Kings of Shuttle loom premium range. The selvage fabrics are slowly woven on authentic shuttle loom machines with a narrow width of 29’’ for the best quality. The machines are slightly trembling, resulting in an uneveness in the fabric which makes each piece an one of a kind and thus extra special. Check the cool brand and the video of the production process here below. Keep an eye on this Dutch blue denim pride!
Worn is a new collaboration from The Vintage Showroom – London and trend forecasters and denim gurus Sue Barrett (formerly WGSN) and freelance denim and streetwear trend forecaster Katy Rutherford (creative director of STORY mfg.) The Worn publication is about global street style-trends and the vintage garments that inspire them. It combines extensive vintage knowledge with a trended snapshot of current global street-styles. Volume One profiles current neo-vintage looks and contemporary patchwork and mending as a resource for both collectors and designers. Worn is a bi-annual men’s vintage & street-style trend publication which launches at the amazing Kingpins Amsterdam denim show on Wednesday April 15th which makes up part of the Amsterdam Denim Days 2015. As a collective Worn publications are available for bespoke creative direction for clients on request. Combining extensive industry expertise in vintage, realtime and future trends.
Mark Westmoreland is the founder of ‘The One Goods’ brand. Mark is a well known denim designer which launched his own brand. Every product is created by specialists, using vintage machinery and traditional methods. Every product is therefore unique and made in very limited numbers. Meet below The One jean from The One Goods.
Every garment has a hand embroidered label – every one is different
One piece fly is standard
Brass Hartt waistband button
Every batch of the one denim jean come with a variety of 10 different leather waistband patches. Each one is then hand branded – usually 1-10 but there are some exceptions.
All one jeans are made from the finest 14oz Japanese narrow loom denim
Their spade pocket, reinforcement stitch varies – fractionally, from batch to batch
This teddy bear is made by Kapital clothing from Japan. Teddy bears are going way back. The teddy bear is a soft toy in the form of a bear. Developed apparently by toymakers Morris Michtom in the US and Richard Steiff in Germany in the early years of the 20th century, and named after President Theodore “Teddy” Roosevelt, Jr. Kapital used for this teddy bear blue indigo rags to create the look of the old Japanese boro’s. The teddy has a great pallet of blue shades. Pretty cool friend for the small indigo kids!
The last few seasons you see more and more black denims in jeans collections. And of course also shuttle loom made black selvage denims. Black coloured denims won’t fade the same way as indigo does. The black penetrates the fiber all the way through, making it almost impossible to get the same contrast as a blue pair of jeans. You could get some moustaches and honeycombs and such, but when washing it, the color will fade and make it grey. I know a black denim looks really cool and rock and roll, but I personally prefer the blue dry ones. Especially because these will age very nice with your own pattern over time. But Nudie Jeans made a cool black dry selvage with their Steady Eddie fit. And the result of wearing looks great after months of wearing.Below some detail shots of this black beauty.
Last Saturday denim collector Yutaka Fujihara released his book: 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. Yutaka is the director of the vintage store BerBerJin in Tokyo – Japan. His denim passion was the drive for his personal archive and the reason why he made this book, a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans. The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language. Don’t know if it will be available in Europe, but will try to get my hands on a copy for my personal archive. The first pictures makes me curious and I am looking forward to see the inside. The edition with the denim cover and golden letters looks really promising!
Around 1848 the famous ”California Gold Rush” started. A lot of farmers left their farm in order to get a better life by finding gold in the mines. But in the early ’50′s they didn’t find any gold anymore. This was a true disaster for everybody as they gave up their old living. Some of them returned back to their farm. But soon their was some good news as they discovered something new in the Nevada mines. Silver, a lot of silver.
This is the beginning of the denim story as the miners needed some strong pants to work in. In the beginning they called these pants, Overalls, which later in the 1930′s became legendary as Jeans. Read the full story in the recently released new denim book: True Fit (http://truefitdenim.com) by Viktor Fredback and Fredrik Ottosson. A must have for everybody who’s interested in denim.
Deadstock Resurrection is a new initiative from Peter Overbeek from Holland. DR will be the new kid in de denim-clothing industry with references to bikes, tattoo and authentic denim. Their philosophy is to re-use, re-claim and re-construct. They approach is creating new, one-off designs that transform surplus fabric and apparel. Apparel stocks from around the world. Their extensive global network sources small quantities of high-quality apparel and fabrics. These surplus stocks would be discarded so by reviving them they are helping to preserve the world’s precious resources. Eveything will be handcrafted in the Netherlands. Each design transformation is produced by hand in limited editions, never to be repeated. Their workshop in the Netherlands customized apparel labels, artworks, prints, patterns, trimmings and the details by hand. This gives each garment a rich and distinctive character, and exclusivity is guaranteed.
During the Amsterdam Denim Days they will officialy launch their brand at the denim Flea Market. Below some sneak images to give you a small insight from their first collection. Look out for Deadstock Resurrection!
Last year the first edition was held of the ‘Amsterdam Denim Days’. After this big success the second edition is already coming to town this April! Amsterdam will be turning blue again for six whole days. It will start on the 13th till the 18th. During these six days you can go to cool store events in the City Center, visit the denim fabric fair Kingpins and of course the great Blueprint event. For the Blueprint event I curate an amazing inspirational denim expo with private archive items from Jason Denham (founder of the Denham brand). Besides that I am also involved into the Flea Market. The event will be the place to be for every denimhead; two days full of music, lectures, expo’s, indigo dye workshops, special brand activations from Candiani, ISKO, G-star, KOI, Scotch, etc. In short, it will be a melting pot for everybody with blue blood in their veins. Come and join the second edition, it’s going to be a one for sure. Below some images to fresh up you mind from the legendary first edition. And check the whole blue program on their site.Great to see u there!