Red Wing just launched a classic boot as a special in their collection: the #8180 Kangatan model a.k.a. Green Monster! This boot is a kind of homage to the boots, the Super Setter 888, which were developed for one of the greatest baseball hitters Ted Williams / Sears brand in the ’60′s. The original boot was made of lightweight kangaroo hide. The re-issued 8180 is made from Portage cowhide leather, but it has the same unique green colour.
As I am a big fan of the RW moc toes this one was on my wishlist for a long time. Finally they are back and in my collection now. What I like the most about them is that they look like a World War 2 army boot with the green colour and brown detail at the top. Big thanks to Matthijs van Meurs / Red Wing Europe!
Super Setter 888 vs 8180
Next week the second edition of Kingpins denim fabirc show in Amsterdam will be held for the second time. With this 2nd edition there’s something special on the 29th of October, the Global Denim Awards. The Global Denim Awards is an innovative initiative, six of the world’s premier denim mills with six emerging designers. Its aim is to connect talent and industry to create a directional platform for the future of denim design, innovation, sustainability and craftsmanship.
Six emerging designers from all over the world were selected and paired with one of six premier and progressive denim mills each. They were given the opportunity to visit their designated mill to develop an in-depth understanding of fibre, fabric, wash and denim development. Armed with these new skills as well as their mill’s best fabrications, each designer then developed a capsule collection of five total looks, including treatments and washes, which will be presented on the runway on 29 October.
The collections will be judged by a panel of international denim experts based on the merits of the design and the innovative nature of the denim fabrications. The winning designer will be awarded €10,000 and have his/her winning designs displayed at the Kingpins shows in Amsterdam, New York, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and at the Amsterdam Denim Days 2015.
The concept for Global Denim Awards was developed by HTNK, the Amsterdam-based fashion recruitment and consultancy firm, in collaboration with the Kingpins Show. Global Denim Awards by e3 will feature the latest and greatest fabrics by Candiani Denim, Royo Textile, ITV Denim, Bossa, Orta Anadolu and Prosperity Textile.
Looking forward to see the developed denim collections. And ofcourse the 2nd edition of Kingpins Amsterdam. See you there!
More info about the awards here;
Yesterday I built the denim expo at the Lois Denim store in Eindhoven for the upcoming Dutch Design Week. The DDW is a design week where you can check on hundreds locations the most innovative and cool stuff. The denim expo in the store is also part of this event. The expo will display some highlights from the Jean School Amsterdam students and some original vintage Lois Jeans items from the ’70′s. These vintage items are owned by the Spanish Lois family but came over for special occasion. Besides the expo Mike van der Zanden, also student on the Jean School and founder from Dyemond Goods label, will show his craftsmanship in the weekends in the store. The DDW will start today till next weekend. Check it out if you are in the neighbourhood. Have a good weekend!
www.loisdenim.com & www.jeanschool.com
We teamed up with authentic Beerze Beer brand from Vessem (NL) for this special collaboration. The best of both worlds come together in two fine limited edition products: a leather apron and a beer bottle opener. The apron is handnumbered and made from natural vegetable tanned leather which will age very nice within time. It’s 100% made in Holland. The opener also contains our natural leather and the opener itself is made in Portugal.
To celebrate our Beerze Beer collab we will organise a special event during the Dutch Design Week in Eindhoven (NL) at the town coffee roasters: Stadsbranderij Eindhoven. The location is a beautiful authentic warehouse in the middle of the centre. Of course you can taste the unique Beerze Beer and see our handmade collaboration products. Besides that we will provide you with live music, soulfoul dj’s and unique fingerfood.
When? Friday the 24th of October from 17.00 till 24.00. Where? Bergstraat 14a – Eindhoven. Hope to see you there! Cheers.
www.buttsandshoulders.com & www.beerzebier.com
Burg & Schild store from Berlin – Germany and Indigofera brand from Sweden teamed up in a great collaboration. The collab consists several nice items as the ultimate biker outfit. One of the items is a classic jean. The “Shane” jeans is made from Japanese 16oz loomstate selvedge denim. The cut is straight and a bit wider, just perfect for motorcycle rides. For the promotion of these iconic items they made a roadtrip through Sweden. Check the jean below and their cool roadtrip video. Well done Shane Brandenburg and Mats Andersson!
www.burgundschild.com & www.indigoferajeans.com
The new issues from The Heritage Post magazine men and women are out soon. On the cover of the men’s edition is the famous furniture maker Piet Hein Eek this time. Piet Hein is from the same village as my hometown, Eindhoven – NL, and he’s a true craftsman. You should definitely check out his work, he’s using a lot of scrap wood to make new cool products like tables and bookcases. That’s his most famous signature. Both covers from the mags are awesome. Nice job Uwe van Afferden!
Ken Diamond is a true leather craftsman. He began to work with leather in the late 90′s and established Ken Diamond in 2003. The philosophy behind the works of Ken Diamond are simple-high quality leather goods with classic designs, entirely handmade in his Vancouver studio. As leather work is a dying art, he works at keeping the traditions alive while using modern techniques to keep the work simple and minimal. His products range consists belts, wallets, bags and moccasins. I personally like the Oxblood Horween leather item a lot, the colour is just beautiful!
ByBeatle is a fresh new denim brand that launched some nice products. One of those is the Golden Nugget denim shirt. The 8oz denim shirt is inspired by the 1920-30´s. The classic round collar work shirt is a true staple piece – a hommage to working men´s garments worn in and around the Golden Age. The features from the shirt are: 100% Cotton 8oz Japanese Unsanforized Denim, One Wash, Cats Eye Buttons, Single Stitch Construction, Gusseted Side Seams, Chainstitch Run Off Detail and 100% Cotton Lined Collar & Placket. Really nice work guys! Check also their ByBeatle Vol.1 jean made from 17oz Japanese raw selvage.
Last Friday I went to Dusseldorf – Germany to visit Uwe and Stefanie from the great store Uwe van Afferden. They are also the publisher from the cool The Heritage Post magazine. From now on they will sell our Butts and Shoulders Worker and Travel Bag. I am very proud to be in this store as they have one of the best clothing stores, full of unique and authentic stuff. A true candy store for everyone who’s interest in high quality clothing, footwear and accessories. It was great to see you both again and good luck with the sales of our bags. Keep in touch!
http://van-afferden.com & www.buttsandshoulders.com
Italian company Sevenbell, the company that made iconic denim brand Roy Roger’s since 1952, launched the new Autumn/Winter campaign for 2014-’15.
Their new campaign with models Marta Hunt and Johannes Huebl, both perfect performers of the relaxed luxury with a new attitude of the collection, tells a story about a new concept of elegance, combining a current and up-to-date style with the brand heritage, made of high quality raw materials and strictly made in Italy pieces.
Roy Roger’s new campaign underlines how its research of innovative fabrics connects with tradition, giving life to a sportswear inspired collection of fine clothing, expressing dynamism and activity, in accordance with true Italian style.
Check out the new collection on: www.sevenbell.com
Sarva is the new denim outdoor inspired brand from Sweden. All their denims are made in Sweden. This is something really special as in the late 70′s all Swedish factories had to close down due to lower priced competition overseas. Now for the first time in 35 years they can produce jeans in Sweden again together with a small factory that has kept their machines and knowledge from the glory days of Swedish textile production.
One of their denim highlights is the Riekte Sami Selvage. A jean made of a Japanese selvedge fabric from Kaihara, Japan. They have worked with them to develop their own 13.75 oz fabric with the selvedge in their south Sami colors red, blue and green. Peek-a-boo selvedge on the coin pocket and Swedish flag bar tacks to finish of the side seams. The leather patch is made in Sweden with naturally tanned reindeer leather from KERO Company in Sattajärvi. All in all a really nice high-end denim. Good luck guys! And check out their new webshop, it’s now online.
Yesterday I visited the Jean School in Amsterdam because I had an interesting meeting with Mira Copini, who’s the main responsible of this study. Three years ago I did one of the first guest lectures for them on the openings day of this education. It was great to see yesterday that my ‘Worn-Out Projects’ expo, an expo which I did for the Dutch fashion fair Modefabriek some years ago, is still doing his job on the Jean School as inspiration for the students. Thanks again for the great meeting Mira, till soon!
Check the previous Worn-Out Projects expo post here;
Iron Heart was founded by Shinichi Haraki in 2003 as an American workwear inspired denim brand, especially with a focus on bikers. Iron Heart is best known for its use of heavyweight fabric for clothing. The first jeans model released was the 21oz IH-634S, a classic straight cut style, which is the signature of the brand. From their signature they made a nice 21oz heavy black selvedge denim version. The made in Japan denim is very soft and comfortable to wear despite the thickness of the fabric. It is woven with hand-picked American cotton, which is known for its long fibers. Nowadays you see more and more black denim in the premium denim market, which is a nice alternative on the classic blue ones. Looking forward to see a worn-in pair of this one, think it will age very beautiful.
Available at the Burg & Schild Store in Berlin: www.burgundschild.com
Corduroy jackets are timeless classics and this jacket from FHB is one of those. These jackets are from origin workerwear jackets, worn by coal farmers, gardeners and garbage men. Nowadays still in use by roofers and carpenters in Germany.
The jacket has a double button, three buttons, a chest pocket and two outside pockets, two inside pockets and lapel collars. My favourite is the colour black, it will fade very nice at the elbows with wearing. Online store Warenmagazijn stock them, check it out.
Available here: www.warenmagazijn.me
Part 2 of the vintage little Levi’s Jeans ‘cowboy set’ from the ’80′s. The jacket is Levi’s famous trucker jacket but in a kids version with snap buttons and fake breast pockets. Also the cuffs from the sleeves are with snap buttons to close and open it easily. The jacket has an orange tab on the pocket, made from right hand non-selvage fabric. Check in the previous post the jean of this set. This denim suit makes every kid a true American cowboy!
This Levi’s Baby Jeans is a denim pant from my private collection. Size tag 12 months. It is made in U.S.A. and from the 1980′s. On the back pocket you see the famous orange tab. Levi’s originally introduced the orange tab in the late ’60′s as a new line next to their red tab line, but the orange tab pieces were more fashionable items. The jeans is a classic 5 pocket and has a zipper, this is common on kids jeans to close it more easily than buttons. The jean is made from right hand fabric, non-selvage and has a stone washed finish, typical from the 80′s period. I also own the jacket from this little ‘cowboy set’, will show you this one in Part 2.
Natural indigo is one of the oldest methods of bringing colour to clothes. Dutch denim brand K.O.I. (Kings Of Indigo) uses the Indigofera Tincoria plant for the coloring of their garments and for the dye process the brand works together with a company based in India. They dye in the purest form: the fabric is soaked in water for between 1 and 3 days, and then the fabric is dipped in natural indigo 4 times. With this technique you will get the most deep natural indigo tone. K.O.I. made several items this collection using this authentic method, the worker jacket ‘Jonathan’ made of 18oz canvas fabric is one of the iconic pieces. The colour came out really nice!
Selvage denim just won’t quit in the future. That’s no surprise as this is the classic way of making denim fabric. This movie shows how the exhibitors at the Kingpins fabric fair in Los Angeles took selvage to great new levels for F/W 2015. Corduroy, cool blends, deep gorgeous shades of indigo, and even stretch selvage. For me personally I only prefer the classic raw selvage, but great to see the new possibilities. Check it. By the way, the Kingpins show is coming to Amsterdam again on October the 29th and 30th. See you there!
Great short docu about the oldest pair of blue jeans, Levi’s Jeans.